A BOOK OF RECIPES 

FOR THE 

COOKING SCHOOL 



CARRIE ALBERTA LYFORD 





Class _ J y 4 .^ -3 

CopyrightN^ 



COEffilGHT DEPOSIT. 



A BOOK OF RECIPES 



FOR THE 



COOKING SCHOOL 



BY 

CARRIE ALBERTA LYFORD 

DIRECTOR OF THE HOME ECONOMICS SCHOOL 

AT 

THE HAMPTON NORMAL AND AGRICULTURAL INSTITUTE 

FORMERLY 

SPECIALIST IN HOME ECONOMICS 

UNITED STATES BUREAU OF EDUCATION 



^ 



Press of 

The Hampton Normal and Agricultural Institute 

Hampton, Va. 






Copyrighted August. 1921 

by 

Carrie Alberta Lyford 

Hampton, Virginia 



OCT -7 '21 



g)C!.A624709 



-^?t^, / 



INDEX 

''^ Introduction i 

■^ Cooking . . .... . . 2 

General Rules 4 

^ Beverages . " . 5 

i^^=c: Vegetables 13 

Sauces for vegetables and meats 44 

Fruits 50 

Food Preservation . 55 

Candies 95 

Cereals 104 

Eggs no 

Omelets 114 

Souffles 117 

Milk 119 

Custards 123 

Cheese 126 

Soups 129 

Meats 142 

Poultry 170 

Fish 178 

Oysters 183 

Cooking in fats 187 

Croquettes 191 

Batters and Doughs 192 

Bread 210 

Sandwiches . . 224 

Scalloped Dishes 227 

Garnishings 228 

Salads 230 

Cakes 243 

Cake Frostings 259 

Pastry 262 

Desserts 273 

Pudding Sauces 289 

Frozen Dishes 292 

Index 303 



INTRODUCTION 

A BOOK OF RECIPES FOR THE COOKING SCHOOL 

This book of recipes is prepared for the use of the many 
teachers and students of cooking who feel the need of standard 
recipes for the every-day dishes with directions simply and 
concisely stated. 

The book represents a compilation of recipes that have 
been in use in cooking schools of the country for many years. 
It is not designed for the use of experienced cooks who are 
seeking a wider variety and a greats elaboration of recipes 
but for the young cook who desires to prepare simple dishes 
well. Each recipe has been carefully ^tested and every care 
has been taken to state the directions definitely. In every class 
which has used the recipes and with every teacher with whom 
the compiler has worked, suggestions, criticisms, and improve- 
ments have been made, so that the book represents the combined 
labors of many students of cooking. The chapter on Food 
Preservation contains the material used in a Hampton leaflet 
prepared with the aid of Miss Alma Kruse whose faithful la- 
bors made its completion possible. 

To all who have thus aided in the preparation of the 
recipes sincerest gratitude is hereby expressed, and the com- 
piler hopes that this publication will be the means of extend- 
ing to young teachers the benefits of practices that have proved 
of value in many schools of cooking. 



COOKING 

Cooking is the preparation of food for the table by dressing 
it or by the application of heat in some manner. 

The processes of cooking include the preparation, se- 
lection, and changing of natural food products with the aid of 
the various kinds of heat or with the assistance of the various 
processes of fermentation or through the agency of different ad- 
mixtures. 

The reasons for cooking foods stated briefly are as follows : 

1 To make the food attractive. Example — meats. 

2 To make the food palatable. Example — eggs. 

3 To make the food digestible and nourishing. Ex- 

ample — potatoes, cereals, breads. 

4 To destroy parasites and germs. Example — in water, 

milk, pork, oysters. 

5 To introduce heat into the body and stimulate the 

digestive organs. Example — soups and beverages. 
The methods of cooking may be summarized as follows : 

1 In a medium of dry heat. 

a Cooking by direct application of intense heat — 

broiling and toasting, 
b Cooking by indirect application of intense heat — 

roasting and baking. 

2 In a medium of moist heat. 

a Cooking by direct application of hot water — 
boiling and stewing. 

b Cooking by direct application of steam — steaming. 

c Cooking by indirect contact with boiling water- 
double boiler. 

3 In a medium of hot fat. 

Cooking by direct contact with hot fat. 



a Frying, in a large amount of fat. 
b Sauteing, in a small amount of fat. 

4 By direct contact with heated metal — Pan-broiling. 

5 Cooking by means of a combination of moist air and 
dry air. (Stewing and baking.) 

a Braizing and pot-roasting in a kettle. 

b Casserole cookery in a covered casserole in oven. 

6 Cooking by means of a combination of hot fat and 

hot water (frying and stewing) — Fricasseeing. 
The results of cooking foods are: 

1 Physical. Examples — softening of cellulose, lique- 

faction of gelatine. 

2 Chemical. Examples — changes in starch, splitting 

up of fats, action of baking powder. 

3 Bacteriological. Examples — destruction of germs 

in meats, milk, and fruits, or cultivation of germ 
life as in preparation of bread, cheese and butter. 

Success in cooking depends upon intelligent handling of 
materials and control of the cooking medium. It is as essen- 
tial to know how to buy and how to prepare the food as it is 
to know how to cook it. Absolute cleanliness must be exer- 
cised in handling food and this can best be secured by orderly 
procedure in carrying on the work. Accuracy of measurement 
is the only means of securing uniform results. A complete 
knowledge of the stove and how to regulate it, is essential if 
the cook is to find joy in her work. 

Good food materials must be used to secure good results. 
This does not mean that the foods of highest price must always 
be purchased but that everything used must be in good condi- 
tion. Cheaper fats can often be substituted for butter when 
cooking. So long as such fats are fresh and of delicate flavor 
the resulting cooked dishes will be satisfactory. Though but- 
ter is very generally named as the fat to be used in the recipes, 



it is hoped that the housewife will often substitute cheaper fats 
that give satisfaction. Oleomargarine has long proved its use- 
fulness as a fat to be relied upon in cooking and can well be 
substituted for butter in batters of all sorts. Lard and beef 
drippings can serve to replace butter in many bread and pastry- 
recipes. It may be found necessary to alter the amount of fat 
used as the kind is varied. 

The fireless cooker can advantageously be used for many 
of the longer processes of cooking. After the food has been 
well heated through ^and the cooking process has begun, the 
dishes may be placed in the fireless cooker to complete the cook- 
ing. For cereals and stews that require very long cooking the 
fireless cooker is a great aid to the housewife relieving her of 
the necessity of watching the cooking and at the same time 
economizing the amount of fuel used. 

GENERAL RULES TO FOLLOW IN USING RECIPES 

Accuracy of measurement is absolutely necessary in order 
to secure uniform results. Although greater accuracy can be se- 
cured by making all measurements by weight, the average 
housekeeper is not provided wdth scales that are sufficiently 
accurate to make the weighing of small quantities feasible; 
therefore, the recipes are given with quantities indicated by 
cup and spoon measurements. 

Use a standard measuring cup that holds one half pint. 

Make all cup and spoon measurements level. 

Measure a fraction of a cupful or of a spoonful carefully. 

Sift dry ingredients before measuring and measure them 
lightly. 

Pack butter and lard when measuring in a cup or spoon. 

Measure all dry ingredients first, before measuring but- 



ter or liquids, in order to economize in the number of utensils 
necessary. 

Table of Measurements 

1 measuring cup = Yi pint 
16 tablespoonsful = 1 cup 
3 teaspoonsful = 1 tablespoon. 

BEVERAGES 

COFFEE 

When possible it is desirable that coffee be roasted shortly 
before it is to be prepared and ground at the time of making, 
as the flavor is quickly lost after roasting, particularly if the 
coffee be ground. Therefore unless purchased in small quan- 
tities, it is best kept unroasted. Roasted coffee must be kept in 
well covered containers. 

The purpose in cooking coffee is to extract the essential oil 
and caffeine and at the same time draw out as little of the tannic 
acid as possible. 

Coffee is prepared by filtration, percolation, and boiling. 
The first two methods extract the essential oil and caffeine with 
but little of the tannic acid. If boiled coffee is carefully made 
the amount of tannic acid drawn out is small. Coffee should 
not be boiled for more than eight minutes. 

When coffee is to be reheated, it should not be left on the 
grounds as added cooking tends to draw out the tannic acid. 

Two level tablespoons of coffee are allowed for each cup 
to be served. 

Coffee is at its best served "black" or clear. Hot milk 
and cream are served in coffee. When milk or cream and sugar 
are added the food value of the coffee is increased, as is also 
the work of digestion. 



Boiled Coffee 

1 cup coarsely ground coffee 5 cups boiling water 

^ cup cold water (freshly boiling) 

Yz white of egg and egg shell ^ cup cold water, 
(crushed) 

Mix the coffee with ^ cup cold water, the white of egg and 
shell and add boiling water. Boil 8 minutes, pour out 1 cup of 
coffee, and return to the coffee pot; add ^ cup cold water and 
let settle 5 minutes. A rich coffee, excellent for after-dinner cof- 
fee. Serves 8 to 10 cups. 

The Qgg may be omitted and the coffee grounds tied in a 
small piece of cheesecloth and removed from the coffee pot after 
the coffee has been boiled 8 minutes. 

Filtered Coffee 

1 cup very finely ground coffee 

5 cups boiling water (freshly boiling) 

Scald a filter coffee pot. Put the coffee into the upper 
part of the coffee pot and pour the boiling water slowly through 
it. The coffee pot must be kept hot while the coffee is being 
made. Serves 8. . 

Percolated Coffee 

y2 cup finely ground coft'ee 3 cups water 

Put the coffee in the upper part of the percolator and the 
water in the lower part. Heat the water and allow^ it to perco- 
late through the coffee for 20 minutes. Serves 6. 

Cereal Coffee 

1 cup cereal coffee. 5 cups boiling water (freshly boiling) 
^ cup cold water 

Mix the coffee with cold water, add the boiling water; boil 
20 minutes, let settle 5 minutes, and serve hot. Serves 8. 



TEA 

There is a great variety of good teas on the market, both 
black and green. The choice of tea is largely a matter of in- 
di\ddual preference. 

Tea should always be kept in a tightly covered can or jar 
to protect it from the air and moisture, because of the volatile 
oil present. 

In the preparation of the beverage the purpose is to draw 
out the volatile oil and caffeine from the leaf into the water. 
Boiling water must be poured over the leaves to obtain these 
results and if the water is then allowed to stand on the leaves 
Avithout boiling for only three or four minutes, the best results 
are obtained. A longer infusion draws out the bitter and harm- 
ful tannic acid, making the beverage not only unpleasant to the 
taste but also harmful to the body. 

As tannic acid acts on some metals, it is not desirable to 
use a metal tea pot. China and earthen ware are best; earthen 
ware is especially desirable, because it holds the heat. 

The tea pot should be scalded out and heated before the 
tea is put in. The water used should be freshly boiling and the 
tea pot tightly covered during the infusion. 

A tea strainer or tea ball may be used to prepare one cup 
of tea at a time. The tea cup must be scalded and boiling 
water poured over the tea leaves. 

One cannot economize in the preparation of tea by allowing 
a longer time for steeping for that ruins the beverage. When 
a stronger tea is desired, more leaves must be used. 

Tea is at its best served clear; lemon is often added (Rus- 
sian tea) ; cloves and candied orange peel give a pleasing 
variety; cream and sugar are much used, and increase the food 
value of the beverage. 



Tea 

1 teaspoon green tea or 2 cups boiling water 

2 teaspoons black tea (freshly boiling) 
Scald the teapot, put the tea in the teapot and pour boiling 

water over it. Cover closely but do not boil. Steep 3 minutes, 
strain, and serve, adding hot water if desired. Serves 4. 

Iced Tea 

Follow recipe for tea using double the quantity of tea 
called for. Strain and set aside to cool. Chill and serve with 
chipped ice and sliced lemon. Black tea is more desirable for 
iced tea. 

CHOCOLATE 

An unsweetened chocolate gives the best results for cook- 
ing purposes. 

Chocolate may become rancid if kept too long because of 
the large amount of fat present. Moisture and heat must be 
excluded from both chocolate and cocoa in order to keep them in 
good condition. It is well to keep chocolate in a tightly covered 
tin box. , 

The purpose of cooking chocolate and cocoa is to develop 
flavor, to cook the starch, and to combine with other food mater- 
ials as a flavor. For cooking purposes unsweetened chocolate 
gives the best results. When cakes rich in chocolate are baked 
some soda is required because of the presence of fatty acids in 
the chocolate. 

Heat readily reduces chocolate to a smooth paste which 
burns easily; therefore chocolate should be cooked at a moderate 
temperature. 

Both chocolate and cocoa should be combined with sugar 
and a small amount of the liquid and cooked to a smooth paste 
before adding the full quantity of liquid. 

Chocolate should be cooked only a short time in order to 
avoid the separation of the fat. 



Cocoa should be cooked half an hour in order to cook the 
starch thoroughly and to develop flavor. 

AA'ater can always be substituted for milk in the recipes 
and the result will still be good though the beverage will not be 
so rich. For a richer beverage cream may be added. 

Both condensed and evaporated milk give excellent 
results with chocolate and cocoa and may entirely replace sweet 
milk. If the condensed milk is used, sugar need not be added. 

The process of "milling" or whipping is necessary after 
cooking chocolate or cocoa in order to avoid formation of the 
albuminous skin over the beverage. 

Chocolate and cocoa are served plain or with cream. The 
cream may be plain or whipped and the whipped cream may be 
sweetened or unsweetened. Sometimes the well-beaten white of 
an egg is added to the whipped cream to increase its volume. 

Chocolate 

1 qt. milk or 2 oz. chocolate. 

1 qt. milk and Vv'ater. ys cup sugar 
^lelt the chocolate over hot water, add the sugar and then, 
the hot liquid slowly; boil 5 minutes directly over the heat, 
beat well and serve. A richer beverage may be made by using 
3 ounces of chocolate. Serves 8 to 10. 

Cocoa 

^ cup cocoa Icup water 

^cup sugar 3 cups milk 

Mix the cocoa and sugar with the w^ater and boil 10 min- 
utes; stir into the hot milk and then cook in double boiler ^ 
hour. Serves 8 to 10. 

FRUIT BEVERAGES 

Beverages prepared from fresh fruits and served cold are 
welcome and refreshing in hot weather and are frequently use- 
ful during sickness. 



10 



The citrus fruits usually form the basis of such fruit bever- 
ages and can be used alone or in combination with other fruits. 

The recipes can be varied as different fruits are in season 
and as use is made of the various canned fruit juices. 

Sugar should be used with discretion in fruit beverages 
and water should be added as necessary. The quantities of 
sugar and water used in the recipes will have to be varied ac- 
cording to the acidity and strength of the fruit juices. 

Strawberries, cherries, diced pineapple and sliced bananas 
are used as garnish in fruit drinks. 

Lemonade 

^ cup lemon juice 1 quart water 

1 cup sugar 
Add sugar to lemon juice and stir until sugar is dis- 
solved. Add cold water, stir well, strain and add more water if 
desired. Serve very cold. 

The juice of one lemon equals 3 tablespoons. Allow 1^ 
tablespoons juice to each glass. Serves 6. 

Orangeade 

6 oranges 1 cup sugar 

2 lemons, juice 1 quart water 

Add the sugar to the juice of the oranges and lemons and 
stir until the sugar is dissolved. If desired add grated rind of 
one half lemon and one half orange. Add cold water, strain, 
and serve cold. Serves 6 to 8. 

Strawberryade 

1 cup strawberry juice 4 cups water 

2 lemons, juice ^ cup pineapple juice 

Yz cup sugar or shredded pineapple 

Add lemon juice and sugar to strawberry juice, then add 
cold water and pineapple. Serve very cold. Serves 6 to 8. 



11 



Grape Fruit Juice 

2 grape fruit, juice | cup sugar 

2 lemons, juice 1 quart water 

Add the lemon juice and sugar to the grape fruit juice. 

Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then add cold water and strain. 

Serve very cold. Serves 6 to 8. 

Fruit Drink 

2 oranges 1 quart water 

2 lemons 1 cup sugar 

1 grape fruit 1 cup shredded 

pineapple 
Add the grated rind of one orange to the sugar and water 
and boil for a few minutes. Cool and add to the juice of the 
lemons, oranges, and grape fruit. Strain, add the shredded 
pineapple and serve very cold. Serves 6 to 8. 

Fruit Punch 

1 cup water 2 teaspoons tea 
1 ^ quarts water 4 lemons 

2 cloves 2 oranges 

1 stick cinnamon ^ cup shredded 

pineapple 
Add one quart of water to the sugar. Add cinnamon^ 
cloves and grated rind of one lemon. Boil 5 min. Steep the tea 
with one pint boiling water for 3 min. Strain and add to the 
syrup. Add the lemon and orange juice strained and the 
shredded pineapple. Serve very cold. Serves 6 to 8. 

Grape Juice Punch 

1 pint grape juice V^. cup sugar 

2 lemons 1 quart water 

Add the juice of the lemons and the sugar to the grape 
juice and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add the water, strain 
and serve very cold. The strength of the grape juice will vary,, 
hence more grape juice and more sugar may be required. Serves 
6 to 8. 



VEGETABLES 

Vegetables should be used when they are in season, as they 
are always cheapest and at their best then. One should select 
those that are fresh and of good quality. Those of medium 
size are usually best. They should be kept in a cold, dark, 
dry place until ready to use. 

Cooking of Vegetables 

Vegetables are cooked to soften the cellulose, to cook the 
starch, and to develop the flavor. Methods of cooking com- 
monly employed for vegetables are boiling, steaming, baking and 
frying. 

Prepare vegetables by washing thoroughly, with a small 
scrub brush, and paring or scraping, if the skins are to be re- 
moved. They are always better if the skin is not removed be- 
fore cooking and if they are kept as nearly whole as possible. 
After paring put all vegetables into cold water until ready to 
cook, to keep them crisp and to prevent their being discolored. 
If withered let them stand in cold water for some time. 

Cellulose forms the basis for the framework of all vege- 
tables. In old or exceedingly large vegetables this cellulose 
may be very tough, hence longer cooking may be required. In 
most vegetables the cellulose is more coarse in one part of the 
vegetable than in the others. Cabbage has a coarse mid-rib of 
cellulose. Celery has strings of cellulose down the stalk. Car- 
rots have a tough center of cellulose which becomes very hard 
in the old vegetable. Turnips have a heavy layer of cellulose 
on the outside. 

General Directions for Cooking Vegetables in Water 

Strong flavored vegetables (as turnips, onions, cabbage, and 
cauliflower) may be cooked uncovered in rapidly boiling water 
in order to drive off some of the odor and flavor. 

12 



13 



Delicately-flavored vegetables (as spinach, asparagus, and 
green peas) are best if cooked uncovered, slowly, in a small 
amount of boiling water until the vegetable is tender and the 
water boils away. 

Starchy vegetables (as potatoes, carrots and parsnips) 
should be cooked in a sufficiently large amount of boiling water 
to cover them. The water should boil gently and the kettle be 
kept covered. 

\\^ater should be kept boiling continuously while vegetables 
are cooking. If it is necessary to replenish water, boiling water 
should be added. When vegetables are partially cooked, add 1 
teaspoonful salt to each quart of water. Cook until vegetable 
can be easily pierced with a fork. 

All boiled vegetables should be drained well as soon as 
tender if an excess of water has been used. After cooking 
season with salt and pepper and serve hot with butter or white 
sauce. 

When practicable it is better to steam than to boil vege- 
tables, because there is less loss of food value. Put the 
vegetables on a plate in the steamer, cover closely, set over 
boiling water, and keep the water boiling steadily until the 
vegetables are tender. 

Proportions for seasoning 1 cup vegetables are Yz teaspoon 
salt, yi teaspoon pepper, ^ tablespoon butter. Proportions for 
medium white sauce are 2 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons 
flour, 1 cup liquid, 1 teaspoon salt, ^ teaspoon pepper — suf- 
ficient for 2 cups cooked vegetables. 

All dried vegetables should be soaked in cold water before 
cooking. Because of the large amount of tough skin on dried 
peas and beans both soaking and cooking may require several 
hours. If water contains much lime it does not soften them 
readily, hence it is sometimes desirable to add a little soda to the 
^vater to precipitate the lime. 



14 



Time Table for Cooking Vegetables in Water 

Asparagus 20-30 min. Mustard Greens . .30-45 min. 

Beans, lima 1-1^ hrs. Okra 20 min. 

Beans, string 1-3 hrs. Onions 45-60 min. 

Beets, old 3-4 hrs. Parsnips 30-45 min. 

Beets, young %-l hr. Peas, green 20-45 min. 

Cabbage 20 min. Potatoes, sweet .... 20-30 min. 

Carrots ^-1 hr. Potatoes, white . 20-30 min. 

Cauliflower 20-30 min. Salsify or oyster 

Celery 20-30 min. plant 45-60 min. 

Collards 20-30 min. Spinach 15-45 min. 

Corn, green 10-20 min. Squash 20-30 min. 

Egg plant 30 min. Swiss Chard 30-40 min. 

Kale 25-45 min. Tomatoes y^-l hr. 

Kohl Rabi 30-50 min. Turnips 30-40 min. 

ASPARAGUS 

Asparagus should be used while young and fresh, and 
should be carefully cooked in order to preserve the delicate 
flavor. Its food value is not high, but it is always a welcome 
addition to the diet and is of value because of the mineral mat- 
ter it contains. It can be served cold in salads as well as hot 
with meat and potatoes. 

Boiled Asparagus 

Wash, trim, remove the woody part of the stems, and tie 
asparagus in bundles, or cut in 1-inch lengths. Put in salted 
water and boil slowly in an uncovered saucepan until stalks 
are tender. Season with butter, salt, and pepper, or with a 
white sauce. Serve on hot toast if desired. 

BEANS 

Beans are a valuable vegetable for the table, either served 
green in the pod or matured and removed from the shell. 



15 



Green String or Wax Beans 

Green beans do not have high nutritive value but they 
suppl}- valuable minerals and needed bulk. They may be 
boiled, seasoned, and served as an accompaniment to the meat 
course. Cream or white sauce may be added before serving. 
Salt pork may be cooked with the beans to give additional flavor. 
Cold cooked beans may be used in salads. 

Dried Beans 

Mature beans provide a good meat substitute and may be 
cooked in a variety of ways. Baked beans and bean soup are 
probably the most popular methods of using dried beans. 

Boston Baked Beans 

1 quart navy beans 2 tablespoons molasses 

1 tablespoon salt 1 cup boiling water 

y2 tablespoon mustard ^ pound fat salt pork 

3 tablespoons sugar Boiling water to cover. 

Pick beans over and soak in cold water over night. 
In the morning drain, cover with fresh water, and heat 
slowly until the skins burst, but do not let the beans become 
broken. 

Scald Yz pound fat salt pork; scrape it; put a slice in the 
bottom of the bean pot. Cut the remaining pork across top in 
strips just through the rind, and bury the pork in the beans, 
leaving the rind exposed. 

Add 1 cup boiling water to seasonings and pour over the 
beans. Cover with boiling water. Bake slowly, adding more 
water as necessary. Bake from 6 to 8 hours; uncover at the last 
so that the water will evaporate and beans brown on top. 
Serves 12. 

Green Lima Beans or Butter Beans 

Cover 1 quart of the shelled beans with boiling water. Boil 
up quickly at first, then boil slowly until done (45 to 60 



16 



minutes), allowing water to boil away at the last. When tender 
pour off a part of the water if too much remains. Season the 
beans with a teaspoonful of salt and 3 tablespoonfuls of butter, 
or serve with a white sauce. 

BEETS 

The whole of the young beet plant, including the root, may 
be pulled and used while fresh for "greens." It is valuable for 
the organic acids and minerals it provides. When more nearly 
mature the beet is boiled without the tops. The mature beet 
may be stored and kept through the winter and if boiled till 
tender is excellent as a source of sugar and starch, thus pro- 
viding heat and energy to the body and giving a welcome varia- 
tion in the vegetable foods. Care must be taken in handling and 
cooking beets not to break the skin or injure the beet, for the 
soluble sugar and attractive coloring are easily lost. Beets are 
sometimes pickled and used as a relish, and are an attractive 
addition to vegetable salads. 

Boiled Beets 

Wash the beets, leaving 2 or 3 inches of the top on until 
cooked, and cook whole until tender. Young beets will cook in 
1 hour, old beets require a longer time. Put in cold water, 
pare, slice and reheat with butter, salt, and pepper. The butter 
may be omitted and vinegar used or the beets may be cut in 
small cubes and served in a white sauce. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 

Brussels sprouts are of the same class as the cabbage and 
are prepared, cooked and seasoned in the same way, but because 
of their small size, it is possible to leave them whole. 



17 



CABBAGE 

Cabbage can be used in many ways, both uncooked and 
cooked. Prolonged cooking renders cabbage somewhat difficult 
of digestion; therefore care should be taken to cook cabbage 
only long enough to soften the cellulose. 

Boiled Cabbage 

Cut cabbage in quarters and soak ^^ hour in cold salt 
water to draw out any insects. Cut in large pieces or chop 
evenly. Cook till tender in a large amount of boiling salted 
water about 20 minutes. Leave kettle uncovered. Drain and 
serve with butter, salt, and pepper or with a drawn butter sauce 
flavored with vinegar. 

Creamed Cabbage 

1 pint boiled cabbage 1 recipe white sauce 

White Sauce 

2 tablespoons butter ^ teaspoon white 

or other fat pepper 

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk, heated 

1 teaspoon salt 
Heat the butter. When it bubbles add flour and seasonings, 
add hot milk gradually, stirring constantly and allowing the 
mixture to thicken and bubble each time before adding another 
portion of the milk. Boil up once and sauce is ready to serve. 
Pour the white sauce over the boiled cabbage, heat till 
bubbling, and serve hot. Serves 6 or 8. 

Scalloped Cabbage 

3 cups chopped cabbage 1^ cups milk 

2 tablespoons butter or 1 cup bread crumbs, to 

other fat which 

3 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon butter or 
Yz teaspoon salt other fat is added 
^ teaspoon white pepper 



18 



Boil cabbage until tender, drain well, put into a well- 
greased baking dish, and pour over it a white sauce made of the 
butter, flour, salt, pepper, and milk. Cover with the buttered 
crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven until the crumbs are a golden 
brown, about 15 minutes. Serves 6 or 8. 

The same recipe may be used to prepare scalloped potatoes, 
scalloped corn, scalloped asparagus, scalloped cauliflower, scal- 
loped onions, and scalloped carrots. ( See scalloped dishes). 

Cabbage Boiled with Pork or Corned Beef 

If cabbage is to be cooked with boiled salt pork or corned 
beef, add to it the boiled meat one-half hour before it is to be 
served and boil vigorously until tender, leaving the kettle un- 
covered. 

Sauer Kraut 

See directions for making sauer kraut. 
When ready to use sauer kraut, drain it and boil till tender 
in hot water or cook in hot fat. Season to taste. 

Sauer Kraut with Fresh Pork 

Cover sauer kraut with boiling water, add fresh pork and 
boil until the meat is very tender and falls from the bones. Re- 
move bones. Season to taste. 

CARROTS 

Delicate young carrots procured from the garden during 
the summer and fall are an acceptable addition to the daily 
menu. They may be cooked alone or combined with meat dishes, 
soups, and salads to give added flavor. Older carrots may be kept 
for use through the winter if stored in a cool, dry place. They 
are used in the same ways that young carrots are used but are 
more tough in texture and stronger in flavor than young carrots. 
The outside skin of the carrot may be removed by scraping after 
it has been thoroughly scrubbed. Carrots have considerable 



19 



nutritive value because of the sugar, starch, and mineral matter 
which they contain. They provide needed bulk to the diet and 
may be used with meats or fish when some more juicy vegetable 
is served at the same meal. 

Creamed Carrots 

1 pint carrots. 

1 recipe medium white sauce (see creamed cabbage) 
Scrape the carrot slightly; then cut into large dice or slices. 
Young carrots may be cooked whole. If the heart of old car- 
rots is hard and woody, remove it before cooking. Put into a 
stewpan with boiling salted water to cover, allowing a teaspoon- 
ful of salt for a quart of water, and boil until tender. Young 
carrots will cook in 30 minutes and the water should be allowed 
to boil away. Old carrots require 45 minutes boiling. Drain 
well and add to the white sauce. Serves 6 to 8. 

CAULIFLOWER 

Soak cauliflower in cold salt water to draw out insects. Tie 
in cheese cloth to prevent falling to pieces, put into a large 
amount of boiling water and boil rapidly until tender (20-30 
min.) leaving kettle uncovered. 

Cauliflo'wer au Gratin 

1 head cauliflower 1 cup milk or cream 

2 tablespoons butter or 1 teaspoon onion juice 

other fat. 2 tablespoons grated cheese 

2 tablespoons flour ^ cup bread crumbs 

y^ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter 

Dash of pepper 

Boil the cauliflower in salted water till tender, about 30 
minutes. Prepare a white sauce with 2 tablespoons butter, 
flour, salt, pepper, and milk. Add onion juice and cheese. 
Break cauliflower up in pieces, put in baking dish, cover with 
white sauce and sprinkle with buttered crumbs. Place in a 



20 



hot oven until the crumbs are a golden brown, about 20 
minutes. Serves 6 to 8. (See scalloped dishes). 

CELERY 

Separate the pieces of celery from the root and wash each 
piece thoroughly. Remove any discolored portions with a knife. 
Cut off the leaves and keep them for garnishing or for soup. 
Reserve coarse or broken pieces, leaves, and roots for cooking. 
Serve all the delicate, crisp pieces uncooked with salt or use 
them in salads. 

Creamed Celery 

3 stalks celery 1 recipe medium white sauce 

Wash and scrape the celery, cut in ^ inch pieces, cover 

with boiling water, and cook until tender (20-30 minutes), 

drain and serve with a white sauce, using the water in which 

the celery has been cooked as stock in the sauce. Serves 6. 

COLLARDS 

In those parts of the country where collards grow readily 
they are among the most valuable greens and give a much 
needed variety to the diet. They belong to the cabbage family 
and are valuable for their bulk and for the mineral matter they 
contain. 

After washing collards thoroughly, add to a large amount 
of rapidly boiling water, and boil for 15 or 20 minutes or 
until perfectly tender. Season with salt, pepper, and butter 
or serve with white sauce. 

CORN 

Green corn is a valuable table vegetable, both fresh and 
canned, because of its agreeable flavor and the cellulose which 
provides necessary bulk to the diet. 

Fresh corn should be used on the table or for canning as 



21 



early after gathering as possible. It should be kept in a cold, 
dry place until used because it contains fermentable juices and 
hence sours quickly. 

When it is to be used the husks and all the silky fibers 
should be carefully removed. The corn may be cooked on the 
cob or trimmed off with a sharp knife. If the corn is old, 
the kernels may be cut through with a sharp knife, then the 
pulp may be pressed out with the back of the knife and most 
of the hull left on the cob. 

Corn on the Cob 

After removing the husks and silk, trim the cobs if they 
have been unevenly developed or are imperfect in any way. 
Put into boiling salted water and after the water has came to a 
boil continue the boiling from 10 to 20 minutes. The corn is 
done as soon as the milk in the kernels has thickened. This 
can be tested by trying one kernel. If boiled for a long time 
the corn becomes hard and its flavor is impaired. Serve hot. 

Corn Pudding 

1 doz. ears fresh corn or 1 teaspoon sugar 

1 can corn ^ teaspoon salt 

3 eggs 2 tablespoons flour 

2 cups rich milk 1 tablespoon softened butter 
Mix the dry ingredients, add to the well-beaten yolks of the 

•eggs, corn and milk. Cut and fold in well-beaten whites of eggs 
and the butter. Bake in a buttered dish in a moderate oven ^ 
hour or till firm. Serves 6 to 8. 

Stewed Corn 

Cut the fresh corn from the cob, scraping as much pulp 
from the cob as possible. Season with salt and pepper, add a 
little milk and butter, and simmer a few minutes on top of the 
stove or in the oven. 



22 



Scalloped Corn 

1 quart fresh corn or }i teaspoon pepper 

1 can of corn 3 tablespoons butter or 

yz cup milk other fat 

1%. teaspoons salt. 2 cups stale bread crumbs 

After removing corn from the cob mix with milk, add 
seasonings and 1 tablespoon butter. 

Melt 2 tablespoons butter, add crumbs and line the bot- 
tom of a buttered baking dish with one-fourth of the amount. 
Then add one-half the corn mixture and one-fourth more of 
the crumbs. Add remainder of the corn and cover with but- 
tered crumbs. 

Bake in a moderate oven 20 to 30 minutes to brown 
nicely on top. Serves 6 to 8. (See scalloped dishes). 

COWPEAS 

Cowpeas should be cooked soon after gathering, in order 
to preserve their fine flavor. Cook the green cowpeas (in pod 
or shelled) in boiling salted water until tender. Season and 
serve. Dried cowpeas should be soaked over night (7 or 8 
hours), then boiled until tender. By absorbing water dried 
cowpeas increase in size until each cup makes nearly 2y^ 
cups of cooked peas. 

CUCUMBERS 

Cucumbers are valued for their fresh, cool crispness, and 
are generally eaten raw. They are served with salt, pepper^ 
vinegar and oil, or with salad dressing, alone or combined with 
other vegetables. 

To Prepare Cucumbers 

Wash, pare, and cut thick slices from ends. Taste the 
cucumber to be sure it is not bitter. Keep very cold and slice 
thin just before using. The cucumber will be more crisp if 



23 



soaked in salt water. Serve as the salad accompanying meat or 
fish, and with potatoes or other starchy vegetables. 

EGGPLANT 

Eggplant has an agreeable flavor and adds to the variety 
of the diet, though its food value is not high. It should be served 
\\ith meat and potatoes or with one of the more nutritious vege- 
tables, such as beans. 

Scalloped Eggplant 

1 eggplant 1 cup bread crumbs 

3/2 small onion 3 tablespoons butter or 

j4 teaspoon salt other fat 

Pepper 
Cut the eggplant in halves and cook in boiling salted water 
until tender. Drain carefully, remove the pulp from the shell 
and chop the pulp fine. Chop the onion and fry it in 2 table- 
spoons of the fat. Add onion and seasonings to the eggplant. 
Put into a well-greased dish and cover with buttered crumbs. 
Bake in a hot oven from 15 to 20 minutes until well browned 
on top. 

Boiled Eggplant 

Prepare as for scalloped eggplant, heat well after combin- 
ing with the seasoning, omit the buttered crumbs and serve 
without baking. 

Fried Eggplant 

Cut the eggplant in slices about % inch thick, and pare. 
Sprinkle the slices with salt and pile them one upon the other, 
then put a plate with a weight on top of the slices. Let them 
stand an hour, then remove weight and plate. Add 1 table- 
spoonful of water, half a tablespoonful salt, and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful pepper to an egg. Beat well. Dip the slices of 
eggplant into the egg, then into dried bread crumbs. Fry till 
brown. Drain on absorbent paper. 



24 



KALE 

Kale is used chiefly as greens, being boiled and seasoned 
much the same as cabbage. 

Kale Boiled with Pork 

Boil half a pound of salt pork gently for 3 or 4 hours. 
Pick kale over carefully, wash thoroughly, drain well, and put 
on to boil with the pork. Boil rapidly for 25 to 45 minutes. 
Serve the pork with the kale. Add more salt if necessary. 

Smoked bacon or ham may be substituted for the pork. 
Kale may also be cooked in water in which corned beef was 
boiled. 

Minced Kale 

Remove all the old or tough leaves. Wash the kale 
thoroughly and drain, then put on to cook in a kettle of boiling 
water, to which has been added salt in the proportion of 1 
tablespoon to 4 quarts of water. Boil rapidly, with the cover 
off the kettle, until the vegetable is tender. Pour off the water 
and chop the kale rather fine; then put back into the kettle and 
add 1 tablespoon of butter and 2 tablespoons of meat broth or 
water for each pint of the minced vegetable. Add more salt 
if required. Cook for 10 minutes and serve at once. The time 
required for cooking kale varies from 30 to 50 minutes. If 
young and fresh from the garden it will cook in 30 minutes. 

KOHL-RABI 

Kohl-rabi should be used when young and tender, while 
the leaves are not more than 2 or 3 inches in diameter. The 
leaves are used as greens, but the root is the better part. 

Boiled Kohl-Rabi 

Wash and pare the kohl-rabi, then cut in thin slices. Put 
into salted, boiling water and boil, with the cover partially off 
the saucepan, until the vegetable is tender. This will take 



25 



from 30 to 50 minutes. Pour off the water and season with 
butter, salt and pepper. 

Kohl-rabi may be boiled with pork in the same way as 
kale. The cold boiled vegetable may be served as a salad. 

LETTUCE 

Keep lettuce in a cold place until needed. Sometime 
before using the lettuce stand the stalks in cold water to 
freshen. If leaves seem badly withered lay them in cold water 
for half and hour or more before using. Do not let leaves re- 
main long in water for they will become darkened. 

Look the leaves over carefully and wash them thoroughly 
in several changes of water. Use a large quantity of water and 
lift leaves from one pan to the other so that the dirt will settle 
in bottom of the pan. Wash till the last water is clear. 

Dry the leaves by shaking and patting on a towel, wrap 
them in a dry towel, and place them on ice until time to serve. 

Lettuce should be served very cold and dressed with salt, 
pepper and vinegar, or with French Dressing. 

MUSTARD GREENS 

Follow the rule for cooking spinach, but add boiling 
water when the greens are put to cook, and drain well after 
cooking. 

OKRA 

Okra is much valued in the Southern States as a vege- 
table and especially for use in soups. Combined with chicken, 
okra forms the basis of the popular gumbo soup. It contains 
some carbohydrate and mineral matter but its food value is not 
high, for it contains a very large proportion of water. 

Boiled Okra 

Boil the young pods of okra in salted water until tender 



26 



(about 20 minutes), drain and season with butter, salt, and pep- 
per. Add cream if desired. 

ONIONS 

The onion is of value because of its agreeable flavor, its 
laxative properties, and because it contains antiscorbutic sub- 
stances. It can be used raw, alone, and in salads and sand- 
wiches, as well as cooked in a variety of ways. As a season- 
ing for other cooked dishes the onion is invaluable. 

Stewed Onions 

1 quart onions 2 tablespoons butter 

% cup milk ^ teaspoon salt 

White pepper 

Peel onions under cold water. Cook until tender in boiling 
water (45 to 60 minutes), changing the water at the end of 5 
minutes, and again in 10 minutes. Drain, add milk, butter, and 
pepper, cook 15 minutes, and just before serving add salt. 
Serves 6. 

Fried Onions 

Remove the outer skin from the onions and slice them 
evenly or chop fine. Fry in hot fat until slightly browned; 
stir carefully for they will brown unevenly. 

Scalloped Onions 

8 onions % teaspoon white pepper 

2 tablespoons butter 1 ^ cup milk 

3 tablespoons flour 1 cup bread crumbs 
Yz teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter 

Boil the onions till tender, changing water after 10 minutes, 
and again after second 10 minutes. When tender cut in slices, 
put into a buttered baking dish and pour over them a white 
sauce made of the butter, flour, salt, pepper, and milk. Cover 
with the buttered crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven until the 
crumbs are a golden brown, about 15 minutes. Serves 6 to 8. 
(See scalloped dishes). 



27 



Stuffed Onions 

6 large Bermuda onions Pepper 

6 tablespoons cooked meat % cup buttered bread crumbs 

(chopped) 1 tablespoon butter 

Yz teaspoon salt 
Parboil onions till tender, changing water once or twice. 
Be careful to keep them from breaking. Remove water and cut 
out circular piece from top of each. Scoop out inside to form a 
cup. Chop one-half of the onion thus removed, add chopped 
meat, ^ cup soft bread crumbs, and seasonings. Fill onion 
cups with this mixture. Put in a baking pan and cover bottom 
of pan with boiling water. Bake 15 minutes, basting once or 
twice. Then cover tops with ^ cup buttered crumbs and re- 
turn to oven to bro^vn. Serve on circular pieces of toast. 
Serves 6. 

Pecans or other nuts may be substituted for the meat in 
stuffed onions. 

PARSNIPS 

Parsnips are among the most nutritious roots and can be 
kept for use throughout the winter and into the late spring until 
they begin to sprout. They are rich in sugar and contain a good 
proportion of mineral matter. They should be used with some 
food which supplies protein and with one of the fresh green 
vegetables. 

Boiled Parsnips 

Scrub parsnips thoroughly, boil till tender, plunge into cold 
water and remove the skins. Season with butter, salt, and pep- 
per. Reheat and serve. 

Browned Parsnips 

Slice the cooked parsnips after skinning, browm in hot fat, 
sprinkle with salt, and pepper. 



28 



Mashed Parsnips 

Mash the cooked parsnips after skinning, season with 
butter, salt, and pepper. Reheat and serve. 

Parsnip Fritters 

Mash the cooked parsnips after skinning, season with 
butter, salt, and pepper; shape in small, fiat, round cakes, 
roll in flour, and brown in hot fat. ^ 

PEAS 

The mature pea is one of the most valuable and nu- 
tritious vegetables. To prepare fresh peas, shell and cook 
slowly with a small amount of boiling water, leaving the kettle 
uncovered so that the water will boil away at the last. Season 
with salt, pepper, and butter, add milk or cream i^ desired, or 
serve with a white sauce. 

Dried Peas, Boiled 

1 quart dried peas % lb. fat salt pork 

Pick dried peas over carefully, wash, and soak over night 
in cold water. In the morning bring to the boiling point and 
add salt pork cut in small pieces. Boil till peas are very tender 
4 to 7 hours. Let water boil away at the last. Season with 
salt and pepper. 

Hopping John 

1 cup cow peas 1 cup rice 

yi lb. bacon ^/^ teaspoon salt 

1 large onion ^8 teaspoon pepper 

If dried peas are used soak the peas until softened. 
Then add boiling water, bacon, and onion and cook till tender 
and dry. Boil the rice separately, drain, and add to the cow 
peas. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot. Serves 8 to 10. 

GREEN PEPPERS 

Sweet green peppers are prepared for the table by stuffing 



29 



and baking, or are used as a foundation for salad or as a season- 
ing in meat preparations, salads, soups, and sauces. 

When peppers are to be used they should be well washed, 
tops removed, and all seeds and inner membrane discarded. 
Eaten uncooked they frequently cause acute attacks of indiges- 
tion, and their use in salads is not recommended. 

Stuffed Peppers 

6 to 10 green peppers ^teaspoon salt 

2 cups cooked veal or 1 ^ cups cream 
Chicken, chopped (^Ib.) 1^ cups bread crumbs 

3 tablespoons butter ly^ tablespoons butter 
3 tablespoons flour (for crumbs) 

Onion juice 
Cut the tops from the peppers. Remove the seeds. Make 
a w^hite sauce of the butter, flour, onion juice, salt, and cream. 
Add the meat and fill the peppers with the mixture. Cover with 
buttered crumbs. Place peppers in a baking pan and cover the 
bottom of the pan with boiling water. Bake in a moderate oven 
^ hour. Serve with tops for lids. Serves 6 to 10. 

POTATOES 

If potatoes are kept i^ a cold, dark, dry place they last for 
months. Sprouts which come from the eyes of the potatoes 
should be picked off. Potatoes should be protected from freez- 
ing. 

Before using, potatoes should be well scrubbed. They are 
always better if cooked with their jackets on; if pared, the par- 
ing should be very thin. Scraping is sufficient for new potatoes. 

Potatoes must be cooked to soften the cellulose and to cook 
the starch. They are best boiled, baked, and steamed. Cold, 
left-over portions of potatoes may be made into attractive and 
palatable dishes. 

Potatoes should be served very hot, left uncovered to allow 



30 



the steam to escape, or covered with a napkin to absorb the 
steam. 

They may be garnished with parsley, or chopped pepper, or 
served with drawn butter sauce, white sauce, hot milk, grav>^, or 
hollandaise sauce. 

Potatoes should be accompanied with meat, fish, eggs, 
cheese, or other meat substitute when served. 

Baked Potatoes 

Scrub potatoes carefully and place in a baking pan. 
Bake in a hot oven 45 to 60 minutes. When soft, break 
the skin and let steam escape. Serve in an uncovered dish. 

Boiled Potatoes 

Wash and pare potatoes. Cover with boiling water. Add 
salt. Boil slowly until tender (20 to 30 minutes), drain, shake 
gently, and dry at the back of the stove, leaving the saucepan 
uncovered, or lay a cloth folded over the top to absorb the mois- 
ture. 

If potatoes are to be boiled with their jackets on, follow 
the same directions for cooking omitting salt. Before serving, 
remove the skins carefully from the hot potatoes. 

Creamed Potatoes 

2 cups cold boiled potato 1 recipe medium white sauce 

Parsley 
Cut cold boiled potatoes into dice and cover with medium 
white sauce, heat, garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 6. 

Creamed Potatoes, Baked 

3 cups cold boiled potatoes 1 teaspoon salt 

(finely diced) ^ teaspoon white pepper 

cup thin cream or milk 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 

1 tablespoon butter 

Put diced potatoes into a buttered baking dish, cover with 
cream and seasonings and bake slowly until cream is all ab- 



31 



sorbed and potatoes are brown on top, about ^ hour. Serves 
8 to 10. 

Franconia Potatoes 

Wash, scrub, and pare potatoes of uniform size. Parboil 
10 min., then put in the oven in dripping pan with meat or on 
a rack in a baking pan. Baste with fat every ten minutes. 
Allow about 40 min. for baking the potatoes. 

French Fried Potatoes 

Wash and pare small potatoes. Cut into eighths lengthwise. 
Soak 1 hour in cold water. Take from water, dry between 
towels. Fry in deep fat till golden brown. Drain on absorbent 
paper. Sprinkle with salt. (See directions for frying in deep fat) 

Hollandaise Potatoes 

3 cups potatoes ^ teaspoon salt 

2 quarts water or meat stock Cayenne 
yz cup butter or other fat 2 tablespoons finely chopped 

1 tablespoon lemon juice parsley 

Cut the potatoes in one-half inch cubes, or cut in balls 
with a French vegetable cutter. Cover with boiling water and 
cook until tender. Drain. Add seasonings to potatoes and 
sprinkle with parsley, cook in the hot fat a few minutes. Serves 
6 to 8. 

Mashed Potatoes 

6 potatoes 1 tablespoon butter or other 

Yz cup hot milk or cream fat 

1 teaspoon salt 
Wash and pare potatoes, boil in salted water, drain, dry, 
and mash (with a potato masher) in the saucepan in which they 
were cooked. Beat them until very light and creamy, add hot 
milk, butter, and salt and beat again, reheat, and serve. Serves 
6 to 8. 



32 



Potato Cakes 

Shape cold mashed potatoes into small round cakes, dip 
in flour, and brown in hot fat — beef drippings, bacon fat, or 
other cooking fat. Egg yolk added to t)ie mashed potato will 
add to the food value, enrich the flavor, and help to keep the 
potato cakes in shape and to brown better. 

Potatoes au Gratin 

6 medium sized potatoes 1 Yz cup thin white sauce 

(3 cups diced) 1^ cups bread crumbs 
^ cup or y^ lb grated 1 tablespoon butter or 

cheese other fat 

THIN WHITE SAUCE 

1 tablespoon butter or 1^ cup milk 

other fat ^ teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons flour Cayenne 

Boil potatoes, skin, and cut in dice. Put into buttered 
baking dish. 

Prepare thin white sauce, add cheese and pour over po- 
tatoes. Cover with buttered crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven 
until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Serves 8 to 10. 

Cabbage, cauliflower, macaroni, mushrooms, noodles, 
onions, and spaghetti may be prepared in the same way. (See 
scalloped dishes). 

Potatoes Baked in Half Shell 

6 potatoes ^ teaspoon white pepper 

2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons hot milk 

1 teaspoon salt 2 egg whites 

Select potatoes of medium size, scrub and bake. Remove 
from the oven, cut in half and scoop out potato without break- 
ing the skin. Mash, add butter, salt, pepper, and milk. Beat 
well, then add tgg whites well-beaten. Refill skins and bake 
in a very hot oven until slightly browned, about 8 min. Serves 6. 



33 

Potato Croquettes 

2 cups hot riced potatoes Cayenne 

(8 potatoes) Few drops onion juice 

2 tablespoons butter 1 to 3 egg yolks 

1 teaspoon salt 
Dry potatoes well when boiled. Rice the potatoes and add 
the other ingredients in the order given. Beat thoroughly. 
Shape in balls, then in cylindrical rolls. Roll in flour, egg, 
and crumbs, mark in three places on top of each with a knife 
blade to represent a small French loaf. Fry in deep fat, until 
golden brown. Drain on absorbent paper. Serve hot. Use 
white of the egg for dipping. Serves 6 to 8. (See directions 
for cooking in deep fat) . 

Potato Croquettes with Cheese 

2 cups hot riced potatoes ^ teaspoon salt 

yi cup grated cheese Few gratings of nutmeg 

2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons milk 

Cayenne 2 egg yolks 

Mix the potatoes, cheese, and butter. Beat until smooth. 
Add the seasonings, milk, and eggs. Shape as small apples, 
roll in flour, egg, and crumbs ; make a dent for stem and blossom 
end of apple. Fry in deep fat. Drain. Garnish blossom end 
with a clove. Serve hot. Serves 6 to 8. (See directions for cook- 
ing in deep fat). 

Potato Roses for Garnishing 

6 large potatoes or 3 egg yolks 

2 cups cooked potatoes j4 teaspoon salt 

3 tablespoons butter 

Boil the potatoes till tender, drain, dry well. Mash or 
press through a potato ricer, a,dd butter, salt, and yolks of eggs 
slightly beaten. Beat well. Put the mixture into a pastry bag 
in which a star tube has been inserted and press out in the de- 
sired shape on a buttered pan. Brown in the oven. Remove 
with a spatula or broad-bladed knife, and use as a garnish for 



34 



meat or fish. The roses may be made directly on a heavy 
serving dish that can be slipped into the oven. When used for 
garnishing the fish plank, they can be made directly on the 
plank. Serves 8 to 10. ' 

Potatoes O'Brien 

6 to 8 potatoes 2 tablespoons butter or 

Yz can pimentoes, chopped butter substitute 

34 cup flour Yz cup cream or milk 

Yz teaspoon salt 1 cup buttered crumbs 

(1 tablespoon butter) 
Parboil potatoes. Then cut in rather thin slices and put 
in a buttered baking dish in alternate layers with the pimen- 
toes. Sprinkle each layer with flour and salt and cover with 
bits of butter. Pour liquid from the can of pimentoes and 
the cream over the potatoes, then cover with buttered crumbs 
and bake in a hot oven 20 to 30 min. Serves 6 to 8. 

Potato Puff 

3 cups mashed potato 2 tablespoons butter 

Ya'Ya cup milk 1 teaspoon salt 

3 eggs Ya teaspoon white pepper 

To mashed potatoes add well-beaten yolks of egg, milk, 
butter, salt and pepper. The amount of milk will vary ac- 
cording to the dryness of the potatoes. Beat over heat until 
potatoes are hot and all is well-mixed. 

Cut and fold in stiffly beaten whites of eggs. 
Turn into a buttered baking dish and bake until puffed 
and brown in a hot oven about 20 minutes. Serves 8 to 10. 

Riced Potatoes 

After boiled pared potatoes have been well-drained, put 
them through a potato ricer or vegetable press. Serve in a hot 
dish and season with salt, pepper and butter. 



35 



Saratoga Chips 

\\'ash and pare potatoes. Slice thinly with vegetable 
cutter into a bowl of cold water. Let stand 2 hours. Take from 
water, dry between towels. Fry in deep fat till light brown. 
Keep potatoes in motion while frying. Drain on absorbent 
paper. Sprinkle with salt. (See directions for frying in deep 
fat.) 

Scalloped Potatoes 

8 potatoes 1 teaspoon salt 

1 quart milk Pepper 
ys cup butter or oleo 

Pare potatoes and cut into thin slices. Place in a well- 
greased baking dish, cover with scalded milk, butter, salt, and 
pepper, and bake from 1% to 2 hours until the milk is absorbed. 
Stir frequently while cooking, browning the potatoes well over 
the top during the last fifteen minutes. Serves 6 to 8. (See 
scalloped dishes). 

Scalloped Potatoes with White Sauce 

Prepare creamed potatoes with a thin white sauce. Put 
into a buttered baking dish and cover with a cup of buttered 
crumbs. Bake 20 to 30 minutes until nicely browned. 

Scalloped Potatoes with Eggs 

2 cups cold boiled potatoes 1 cup buttered bread crumbs 
4 hard cooked eggs (2 tablespoons butter) 

1^/2 cups thin white sauce 

Slice the potatoes and eggs, arrange in alternate layers in 
a buttered baking dish, cover with white sauce. Sprinkle the 
buttered crumbs on top. Bake 20 to 30 minutes to brown the 
crumbs. Serves 6 to 8. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Scrub potatoes carefully and place in a baking pan. Bake 
in a hot oven 45 minutes to 1 hour. When soft, break skin to 
let the steam escape. Serve in an uncovered dish. 



36 



Boiled Sweet Potatoes 

When sweet potatoes are boiled it is best to leave the 
jackets on. The skin may be readily removed after boiling. 
The cellulose of sweet potatoes is easily softened. Twenty min- 
utes boiling may be sufficient. 

Fried Sweet Potatoes 

Cut cold boiled sweet potatoes in quarters or slices, season 
with salt and pepper; put in a hot, well-greased frying pan, 
brown on one side, turn and brown on the other side. 

Glazed Sweet Potatoes 

6 sweet potatoes 1 tablespoon butter or 

Yz cup sugar butter substitute 

4 tablespoons boiling water 

Scrub, pare and boil potatoes 10 minutes in salted water; 
drain, cut in halves lengthwise, and put into a buttered baking 
pan. Make a syrup of sugar and water, boil 3 mniutes, add 
butter. Baste potatoes with syrup, put in hot oven and cook 15 
minutes, or until browned, basting every 5 minutes. Serves 
8 to 10. 

Mashed Sweet Potatoes 

6 sweet potatoes 4 tablespoons butter 

6 tablespoons brown sugar 
Boil the potatoes; when soft, remove the skin, mash, and 
add 3 tablespoons brown sugar and 3 tablespoons butter; pile 
in a baking dish; sprinkle 3 tablespoons sugar over the top, dot 
with remaining butter and bake in a moderate oven until a 
brown crust is formed. Serve hot. Serves 6 to 8. 

Sweet Potato Croquettes 

2 cups cooked sweet potatoes 1 teaspoon parsley 
2 tablespoons butter 2 eggs 

1 teaspoon salt ^4 cup milk or more 

Cayenne 
Mash the potatoes well, add the butter, seasonings, yolks 



37 



of eggs, and enough milk so that the mixture can be easily 
moulded into balls. ^lake smooth balls of even size, roll them 
in flour, then in the egg whites which have been slightly beaten 
with 2 tablespoons of water, then in sifted bread crumbs. Fry 
in deep fat until golden brown. Drain on absorbent paper. 
Serves 6 to 8. (See directions for cooking in deep fat.) 

RADISHES 

Wash radishes, cut off tops. Serve cold and crisp. If de- 
sired pare or mark with lengthwise cuts and loosen paring from 
stem end to middle so that it curls back; or cut in thin slices, 
without paring, and use in salads. 

SALSIFY, OYSTER PLANT, OR VEGETABLE OYSTER 

Salsify is one of the vegetables of value throughout the 
winter. Its food value is not high, but it contains some pro- 
tein, carbohydrate, and mineral matter. Because of its delicate 
flavor it makes a pleasing addition to the diet. It can be used 
with meats and starchy vegetables. 

Boiled Salsify 

Wash, scrub, and scrape the oyster plant, putting it directly 
into cold water to which a little vinegar has been added to pre- 
vent turning dark. Cut in small pieces, cook in boiling, salted 
water until tender (45 to 60 minutes). Drain. Season with 
salt, pepper, and butter. 

Salsify Fritters 

Mash the boiled salsify, season with butter, salt, and 
pepper. Shape in small flat cakes, roll in flour and brown in 
hot fat. 

Creamed Salsify 

Prepare boiled salsify, cut in small pieces, and add to white 
sauce. 



38 

Spinach 

^ peck spinach ^ teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons butter or }i teaspoon pepper 

other fat 

Pick leaves from the stems and wash carefully to remove the 
sand. Cook uncovered without water until tender (about 30 
minutes) stirring frequently at first, then chop fine or press 
through a colander; reheat with butter and seasonings or add 
one recipe brown sauce. Serve garnished with 2 hard-cooked 
eggs if desired. Old spinach should be cooked in boiling water 
45 minutes. Serves 6 to 8. 

SQUASH 

Summer squash should be used while fresh. Hubbard or 
winter squash is good through the winter months. 

Summer squash, cushaw or crookneck squash, and cym- 
lings, should be washed, broken into pieces with a knife, and 
pared. Winter squash must be broken into pieces with a hatchet, 
and the shreds and seeds removed from the center. 

Baked Squash 

Wipe the outside shell of the squash, cut it in pieces for 
serving, remove seeds and stringy portion, place in a dripping 
pan, and bake in a slow^ oven until tender, about three-quarters 
of an hour. Serve at once. 

Steamed Squash 

Prepare squash as for baking, put in steamer over boiling 
water, and cook until soft about 30 minutes. Winter squash may 
require 40 minutes. Then scrape squash from shell, mash, and 
season with butter, salt, and pepper. If very watery it may be 
necessary to press out part of the juice by squeezing the pieces of 
squash between the colander and a plate. 



39 



SWISS CHARD 

The green, tender leaves of Swiss chard are cooked as 
spinach is cooked. When the leaves are full grown the midribs 
may be cooked and served with white sauce. 

TOMATOES 

Ripe tomatoes must be kept in a cold, dry place and very 
carefully handled or they will spoil easily. They are best if 
eaten soon after being gathered. If tomatoes are gathered before 
they are quite ripe, they can be kept much longer. They should 
be handled carefully, kept perfectly dry, and placed in the sun 
to ripen just before being used. Because of their juicy, acid 
nature, tomatoes should be served with meat, fish or dried beans, 
and with a starchy vegetable such as potatoes. 

Before serving, tomatoes should be washed carefully. They 
are nicest if the skins are removed. If tomatoes are well ripened 
the skin may be easily removed with the aid of a sharp paring 
knife. If the skins do not come off readily the tomatoes may 
be plunged for an instant in scalding hot water. All traces of 
core should be removed. 

If tomatoes are to be served raw, they should be washed, 
skinned (preferably without scalding), carefully freed from the 
core, and chilled. They are attractive served whole, cut in 
quarters, or sliced. They are palatable served with salt; with 
salt and vinegar; with salt, vinegar, and salad oil; with cream 
and sugar; or with salad dressing. A few slices of cucumber 
may be served with the sliced tomatoes. The whole tomato may 
be slightly hollowed out and filled with salad dressing or with 
some salad preparation. 

Fried Tomatoes 

6 ripe tomatoes 2 cups dried bread crumbs 

2 eggs Fat for frying 

Select ripe tomatoes of uniform size. Wash thoroughly, 



40 



cut in half-inch slices. Dip in dried crumbs, then in eggs, 
then in crumbs again. (Add 2 tablespoons water or tomato 
juice to the eggs and beat slightly.) Fry tomatoes until 
brown and tender. Serve hot with brown sauce. Serves 6 to 8. 

BROWN SAUCE TO SERVE WITH TRIED TOMATOES 

2 tablespoons fat 1 cup hot stock or water 

2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon Worcestershire 

^ teaspoon salt or other meat sauce 

Pepper 

Melt fat, add fl.our and seasonings, and cook until brown. 
Add hot stock slowly. When mixture thickens remove from fire 
and add the Worcestershire sauce. Serve hot. Serves 6 to 8. 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

1 can or ^ teaspoon pepper 

1 quart tomatoes, sliced 2 tablespoons butter or 

2 cups stale bread crumbs other fat 
1 tablespoon salt 

Melt the fat and add crumbs and seasonings. 

Line the bottom of a well-greased baking dish with one- 
fourth the crumbs, then add half the tomatoes. Add another 
fourth of the crumbs and remainder of tomatoes. Cover with the 
remainder of the crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven 1 hour. 
Cover the first 30 minutes. Serves 6 or 8. (See scalloped 
dishes). 

Stewed Tomatoes 

1 pint tomatoes 1 teaspoon salt 

1 onion 1 tablespoon butter, or 

y^ teaspoon pepper other fat 

Pour boiling water over tomatoes, drain and peel, cut into 
small pieces, add an onion and cook over moderate heat. A long, 
slow cooking improves the flavor. Just before removing from the 
stove add butter and seasoning (salt and pepper). Bread or 
cracker crumbs may be used for thickening, and sugar added if 
desired. Serves 6. 



41 



Stuffed Tomatoes 



6 tomatoes 34 teaspoon pepper 

1 y2 cups stale bread crumbs 1 tablespoon chopped 

3 tablespoons butter or parsley 

other fat 3^ teaspoon onion juice 

3/2 teaspoon salt 

Wipe tomatoes and remove a thin slice from stem end. 
Take from the center the seeds and pulp and sprinkle the cavity 
with salt. Melt the fat, add to bread crumbs, then add tomato 
pulp, parsley, onion juice, and seasonings. Fill the tomatoes 
with the mixture, place them in a shallow dish and bake 15 
minutes in a hot oven. Serves 6. 

TURNIPS 

The turnip is a winter vegetable valuable in furnishing 
variety to the table. It has a heavy outer covering, hence must 
be pared with a thick paring. 

Creamed Turnips 

Scrub turnips. Pare with a deep paring. Boil till tender. 
Cut in dice and cover with a medium white sauce. 

Mashed Turnips 

6 turnips 1 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon butter 
Wash and pare turnips, boil, drain, dry thoroughly, and 
mash (with a potato masher) in the saucepan in which they 
were cooked. Beat them until very light, add butter, and 
salt and beat again, reheat and serve. Serves 6 to 8. 

MUSHROOMS 

Fresh mushrooms may be in season from the spring 
throughout the summer, but are most abundant in August. Those 
grown in the open air in meadows and shaded glens have the 
best flavor. They should not be used if they are over-ripe, if 



42 



mey have been attacked by slugs, if they have a disagreeable 
smell and taste, if they have a tough consistency, if they have 
been grown in dirty places, or if they soften easily. They are 
gathered and packed loosely in boxes or baskets for market. 
They are sometimes dried for storing but more frequently they 
are preserved by canning. They should always be perfectly 
fresh for use. The price of mushrooms varies greatly with the 
season and variety. 

Both the stem and the expanded top of the mushroom 
are used for food, but the stem is likely to be tough and is often 
only used for seasoning. Mushrooms are never eaten raw. 
They are cooked to soften them and to develop flavor. Before 
cooking they should be soaked in cold water to draw out the 
insects, then washed in cold water, the earthy stem cut off, and 
the skin peeled from the top of the cap. They may be broiled, 
sauted, baked, and boiled. They are used alone or as a season- 
ing for sauces, soups, and other dishes. 

The best flavor is developed if the mushrooms are first 
cooked in butter. The baked mushrooms are especially nice if 
covered with a glass bell so that none of the steam and flavors 
are lost. 

Mushrooms are usually served with a rich sauce and are 
generally accompanied by toast or some other carbohydrate 
food. 

Mushrooms do not have a high food value but are prized 
for their flavor. 

To Prepare Fresh Mushrooms for Cooking 

Scrape the stems, cut off the ends. Peel the caps of the 
mushrooms. Wash them in salted water to remove the insects 
from the gills. Soak a few minutes in fresh cold water. 

To Prepare Canned Mushrooms 

Pour the liquid from the mushrooms and put them in boil- 
ing water. Boil 3 minutes and drain. 



43 

Stewed Mushrooms 

Yz pound mushrooms 34 teaspoon salt 

3 tablespoons butter Pepper 

1 tablespoon flour 5^ cup water or stock 

Cook mushrooms in hot butter 2 minutes, sprinkle with the 
salt, pepper, and flour, and add Yz cup hot water or stock. Cook 
slowly 5 minutes. Serve on toast. Serves 6. 

Creamed Mushrooms 

^ pound mushrooms Pepper 

2 tablespoons flour % cup cream 

3 tablespoons butter Nutmeg grating 
34 teaspoon salt 

Prepare as stewed mushrooms. Serve on toast. Serves 6. 



SAUCES FOR VEGETABLES AND MEATS 

'^ Binding'' or "Roux" is the flour and fat cooked together 
for the thickening of a sauce. For white sauce and other 
sauces light in color the roux is not browned. For brown sauce, 
tomato sauce, and gravies brown roux is prepared. In "Brown 
Roux-' the fat and flour are both browned in cooking, hence a 
larger- per cent of flour is required than in white sauce. 
"Wetting" is the liquid used in the sauce. "Stock" is the term 
applied to water in which vegetables, meat, or fish have cooked. 
A few recipes for standard sauces are given. The recipe for 
Medium White Sauce can be regarded as a basis for developing 
other sauces. To increase the variety of sauces prepared, the 
fat, thickening, liquid, and seasonings may all be varied as 
indicated in the table below. 

Table Showing Variations Possible in the Ingredients in Sauces 



FAT THICKENING 


LIQUIDS 


Butter Flour 


Milk 


Beef drippings Corn starch 


Water 


Chicken fat Arrow root 


Milk and water 


Lard Rice 


Cream 


Olive oil Bread crumbs 


Stock 


Bacon fat Cracker crumbs 


Vegetable 


Cream Eggs 


Meat 


Commercial fats 


Fish 




Tomato juice 


SEASONINGS 




Salt 


Pickles 


Pepper 


Olives 


Mustard 


Capers 


Sweet herbs 


Green peppers 


Acids 


Onion 


Lemon 


Horse-radish 


Vinegar 


Worcestershire 


Parsley 


sauce 


Mint 


* 


44 





45 



Medium White Sauce to be used for Creamed Dishes 

2 tablespoons butter or ^ teaspoon salt 

butter substitute % teaspoon white pepper 

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk (heated) 

Sufficient for 1 pint of vegetables. 

First Method of Preparing Sauce 

Heat the fat. When it bubbles add flour and seasonings, 
add hot milk gradually, stirring constantly, and allowing the 
mixture to thicken and bubble each time before adding another 
portion of milk. Boil up once and sauce is ready to serve, or 
place over hot water and cook slowly till thickened. 

Second Method of Preparing Sauce 

Scald milk; cream butter, add flour and stir until smooth, 
then add to hot milk, cook ^ hour in double boiler, stirring 
occasionally; then add seasoning. Serve. 

Third Method of Preparing Sauce 

Scald one-half the milk; add remaining milk slowly to 
flour, stir this into hot milk and cook ^ hour in double boiler, 
stirring occasionally; then add seasoning and butter and stir 
until butter is melted. Serve. 

Thin White Sauce to be used for Scalloped Dishes or Dishes 

au gratin 

1 y^ tablespoons butter or White pepper 

butter substitute j4 cup milk (heated) 

1^ tablespoons flour y^ cup stock (heated) 

% teaspoon salt 

Heat the butter, add flour and seasonings; add hot milk 
and stock gradually, stirring constantly and allowing the mix- 
ture to thicken and bubble each time before adding another 
portion of liquid, allow to boil up once and the sauce is ready 
±0 serve. Sufficient for 1 pint of vegetables 



46 



Thick White Sauce 

(To be used for binding croquette mixtures) 
2 tablespoons butter or y^ teaspoon white pepper 

butter substitute 1 cup milk, cream, or 

4 tablespoons flour white stock (heated) 

j/2 teaspoon salt 
Heat butter, add flour and seasoning; add hot milk or 
stock gradually, stirring constantly, and allow mixture to thicken 
and bubble each time before adding another portion of liquid. 
Allow to boil up once and sauce is ready to serve. Sufficient for 
6 or 8 croquettes. 

Brown Sauce 

2 tablespoons fat ^ teaspoon pepper 

3 tablespoons flour 1 cup brown stock or water 
^ teaspoon salt 

Melt the fat, add the flour and seasonings, and stir until 
the flour begins to brown, then add the brown stock or water. If 
water is used a bouillon cube may be added to give the desired 
meat flavor. One tablespoon chopped onion browned in the fat 
will make a more savory sauce. It will be necessary to strain 
the sauce if the onion has been used. Sufficient to serve 8. 

Caper Sauce for Boiled Mutton 

y3 cup butter or butter }4 teaspoon pepper 

substitute 1 pint water in which the 

^ cup flour mutton was cooked 

% teaspoon salt 
Prepare as white sauce, and add ^ or J cup of capers. 
Serves 12 to 16. 



Drawn Butter for Vegetables 

2 tablespoons butter 1 cup boiling water or 

1 tablespoon flour vegetable stock 

yo teaspoon salt 
Prepare as white sauce. Serve with freshly cooked vege- 
tables. 



47 



Drawn Butter Sauce for Fish 



ys or y^ cup butter 1 tablespoon lemon juice 

% cup flour or vinegar 

y2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon chopped pars- 

Cayenne ley 

1 pint boiling water 2 hard cooked eggs 

Heat butter, add flour, salt and pepper, then add boiling 
water slowly. Add lemon juice and parsley. Just before serving 
add the hard cooked eggs, the white of which have been sliced, 
and the yolks run through a sieve. 

If a larger amount of butter is used, reserve one-half of it, 
and stir in just before serving. Serves 12 to 16. 

Hollandaise Sauce 

^ cup butter ^teaspoon salt 

2 egg yolks Cayenne 

1 ^ tablespoon lemon juice ^cup boiling water 

Cream the butter, add the yolks one at a time, and beat 
well; then add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. A short time 
before serving add the boiling water. Cook in double boiler, and 
stir until the mixture is of the consistency of custard. Serve im- 
mediately. Serves 10 to 12. 

Mint Sauce for Lamb 

1 cup fresh mint (chopped) ^ cup vinegar 

J cup sugar 
Use only the leaves and tender tips of the mint. Dissolve 
the sugar in the vinegar, boil till a thick syrup and add the mint. 
Let sauce stand 1 hour in a warm place. Serves 10 to 12. 

Mustard for Ham and Other Meat 

4 tablespoons mustard 2 tablespoons weak vinegar 

Yz teaspoon sugar y^ teaspoon salad oil 

Add the vinegar gradually to the mustard and sugar to 
make a smooth paste, then add the salad oil. Serves 6 or 8. 



48 



Parsley Butter 

%. cup butter ^ tablespoon finely chopped 

^ teaspoon salt parsley 

y% teaspoon pepper ^ tablespoon lemon juice 

Cream the butter, add salt, pepper, parsley, and the lemon 
juice very slowly. Shape into balls and chill before serving or 
spread onto broiled beef or fish just before serving. Serves & 
to 10. 

Tartare Sauce 

1 cup mayonnaise dressing 4 olives, chopped fine 

1 tablespoon chopped pickle 1 tablespoon capers 
Add the olives, capers, and pickles to the dressing, and 

beat slowly. If desired, 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar may be 

added. Serves 16 to 20. 

Tomato Sauce 

^2 can or 2 tablespoons chopped 

1 pint of tomatoes onion 

1 ^ cup water 2 tablespons butter or 

2 cloves other fat 
2 allspice berries ^4 cup flour 

2 peppercorns ^ teaspoon salt 

1 bay leaf ^ teaspoon pepper 

2 sprays parsley 

Put the tomatoes, water, spices, parsley, and herbs into an 
agate saucepan, and cook until the tomatoes are soft. Fry the 
onion in the butter until light brown, add the flour and 
seasonings, then the tomatoes gradually. Cook slowly until the 
sauce thickens, then strain; if too thick, add more water. Serves. 
12 to 16. 

Tomato Puree 

I can tomatoes ^ bay leaf 

1 tablespoon butter or 1 stalk celery 

other fat 4 sprigs parsley 

2 carrots, sliced 2 cloves 

2 onions, sliced yi teaspoon pepper 

1 tablespoon salt 



49 



Cook all together, uncovered, until thick and rather dark 
in color, about 1 hour. Strain, reheat, and serve as a sauce with 
meats, fish, or omelet. Serves 12 to 16. 



FRUITS 

The skins of fruit carry dirt and germs, therefore all fruits 
should be washed before using. Prepare fresh fruit just before 
cooking to preserve flavor and prevent discoloration. Use only 
silver knives when preparing fruit and silver or wooden spoons 
for stirring. 

Cook fruit in porcelain-lined or granite- ware kettles, never 
in tin. Cover with a china plate or granite-ware cover. Use 
a small quantity of water in stewing fruit. Boiling sugar with 
an acid reduces its sweetness, hence when fruits are cooked sugar 
should not be added until cooking is nearly done. 

Dried fruits need special preparation. Prunes, dried apri- 
cots, and dried peaches should be washed in several changes of 
water; dates and figs should be scalded; raisins and currants 
should be washed and carefully looked over; the skin of dried 
peaches should be removed after soaking. After washing dried 
fruits, soak for several hours in enough cold water to cover, 
then cook slowly in the same water till tender. 

Baked Apples 

Wipe and core sour apples, score skin with a knife, place 
apples in an agate baking dish and fill each center with sugar 
and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Cover bottom of dish with water 
J4 inch deep, and bake until apples are soft (20 to 45 minutes), 
basting them every ten minutes. Place them in a serving dish 
and pour juice over them. Serve hot, or chill and serve cold 
with whipped cream. 

Steamed Apples 

Wipe, core, and pare sour apples. Put them on a plate in 
a steamer and cook slowly until the apples are tender. Strain 
juice and make into syrup by adding ^ cup sugar to each ^ 
cup juice, boiling 5 minutes, and then adding 1 teaspoon lemon 
juice. Pour syrup over the apples. 

50 



51 



Apple Sauce 

10 apples 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 

^ cup water or 

^ cup sugar Ys teaspoon nutmeg or 

cinnamon 
Wipe, quarter, core, and pare sour apples; add the water 
and cook until apples begin to soften; add the sugar and flavor- 
ing and cook until apples are very soft. If apples do not hold 
their shape but break up unevenly it may be desirable to press 
them through a strainer and beat them well to make a smooth 
sauce. Serves 8 to 10. 

Stewed Apples 

10 apples 1 tablespoon lemon juice, or 

}i cup water 3^ teaspoon nutmeg or cinna- 

j4 cup sugar mon 

Cook sugar and water together until it boils. 

Wash, pare, and cut apples into quarters, core, and slice 

quarters lengthwise into }i inch slices; put apple slices into 

boiling syrup and cook slowly until tender. Remove slices of 

apple. Add lemon juice to syrup, boil a few minutes and serve 

over apples. Sprinkle with nutmeg if desired. Serves 10 to 12. 

Stewed Apricots 

Follow the recipe for stewed prunes. 
Baked Bananas 

6 bananas ^ cup sugar 

1 lemon ^ cup water 

Peel the bananas, cut in halves lengthwise. Put in an 
earthen or granite baking pan. Sprinkle with lemon juice and 
sugar. Pour water in the bottom of the pan. Bake in a hot 
oven 20 to 30 minutes, basting occasionally. Serves 6 to 8. 



52 



Cranberry Jelly 

4 cups cranberries 1 cup sugar 

1 or 2 cups water 
Pick over and wash the cranberries. Cook them in water 
until they burst from their skins, and press through a strainer. 
Add sugar to juice and stir until the sugar is dissolved, then, 
without stirring, boil 8 to 10 minutes, or until it jellies when 
dropped on a cold saucer, and pour into molds or glasses which 
have been wet with cold water, and set away to cool. Serves 6. 

Cranberry Sauce 

Use recipe for Cranberry Jelly, but do not strain berries. 
When they are tender, add sugar and cook carefully so that they 
will not be broken up. 

Stewed Prunes 

y2 lb. prunes ^ cup sugar 

1 quart cold water 1 tablespoon lemon juice 

Wash prunes, soak them in cold water for several hours, 
then cook slowly until tender in the water in which they were 
soaked; add sugar and lemon juice and cook 5 minutes longer. 
Sugar may be omitted. Serves 6 to 8. 

Baked Rhubarb 

3 cups rhubarb 1 ^ cups sugar 

Prepare as stewed rhubarb, put into an earthen baking dish. 
Cover and bake slowly until very tender and deep red in color. 
Serves 6. 

Rhubarb Sauce 

3 cups rhubarb Ij^ cup sugar 

y^ cup water 
Remove leaves from rhubarb, wash stalk, peel the flat side 
of the stalk, and cut in J/^ inch lengths. 

Put rhubarb in sauce pan, add water and stew slowly until 
tender, stirring often at first. Add sugar and cook until sugar 
is dissolved. Serves 6. 



53 



Steamed Rhubarb 

3 cups rhubarb 1^2 cup sugar 

Prepare rhubarb as for sauce, put in top of double l^oiler, 
add sugar and cook until tender. Serves 6. 

Fruit Cocktail 

1 small can pineapple 1 lemon 

2 grapefruit % cup sugar 

3 oranges Cherries to garnish 
Remove the sections of the grape fruit and oranges from the 

membrane carefully in large pieces. Cut the pineapple in ^ 
inch dice. Combine the fruits. Sprinkle with lemon juice and 
powdered sugar. Sugar should be used sparingly for the cock- 
tail should be slightly acid. Chill thoroughly. Arrange in 
cocktail glasses or sherbet cups, putting a small amount of 
cherry juice in each cup. Garnish each serving with a red 
cherry or a fresh strawberry or raspberry. Other combinations 
of fruits can be used. 

Serve as an appetizer at the beginning of a meal. Serves 
6 to 8. 

Note — The juices of the fruit can be saved and utilized 
in flavoring fruit drinks or in making fruit ices or jellies. 



FOOD PRESERVATION 

The object of food preservation is to make fruits and vege- 
tables of value for a longer time than through their ripening 
season. After ripening, fermentation and bacteriological changes, 
take place so rapidly that the season for the usefulness of most 
fruits and of many vegetables is very limited unless some means 
is employed for their preservation. 

Chilling, canning, drying, and pickling are the methods of 
preservation most commonly employed. 

Chilling involves the keeping of foods at a very low tem- 
perature, a method which is only temporary but valuable and 
necessary both in the home and in the market. In cold, dry 
climates, chilling makes possible the keeping of many vegetables 
and some fruits throughout the winter without applying further 
means of preservation. 

Drying is accomplished by exposure to the sun or to arti- 
ficial heat. Drying is one of the oldest methods of food preser- 
vation and is valuable for many reasons. The dried food is 
light, compact, and easily handled ; however, foods lose much in. 
freshness and flavor when dried and become dark in appearance 
and small in size. Drying is unpopular because of the long, 
soaking required before foods can be used, and because the com-., 
mercially dried foods have often been treated with sulphur in 
order to preserve their color. Improved methods of commercial 
drying and dehydrating are today increasing the popularity of 
dried foods and offer a helpful solution to the ever-increasing; 
problem of the high cost of living. 

Canning is the method of preservation most generally em- 
ployed for both fruits and vegetables. Canning of meat is also 
sometimes desirable on the farm when there are not means of 
keeping meat in hot weather, or when the feeding of poultry 
through the long winter season is not feasible. The thrifty 

54 



55 



housekeeper should be familiar with the most effective methods 
of canning in order to provide a varied diet for her family dur- 
ing the long season when fresh foods are not available. 

Principles of Canning 

Canning involves the destruction of all germs and spores 
by boiling or steaming the product, and the exclusion of all 
germs from the jar by completely sealing it. The destruction of 
germs in the food, on the jar and on everything that comes in 
contact with the food must be complete in order to secure success. 
Air-tight sealing of jars can be effected by using good tops and 
good, new, pliable rubbers, fitting them tightly. The best suc- 
cess in canning is usually obtained if small quantities of food 
are handled at a time. Small jars are preferable if the family 
is not large. 

Methods of Canning 

There are two methods of canning, known as the open-ket- 
tle method and the can-cooked, or cold-pack, method. The 
open-kettle method is more simple, but the can-cooked or cold- 
pack method can be used effectively with a larger number of 
foods. 

Open-Kettle Method of Canning 

In the open-kettle method the foods are brought to the 
boiling point in a kettle, boiled until thoroughly sterilized and 
tender, sweetened or seasoned as necessary, and then poured 
into sterilized jars, which must be sealed at once. This method 
requires but little time and a simple equipment will serve. It 
can be used to advantage with most fruits because it gives 
opportunity for evaporation of the water from watery fruits, for 
long boiling of such hard fruits as pears and quinces, and for 
the preparaton of jams, marmalades, and preserves. Because of 
the acids contained in fruits, they keep well when canned by this 
method. For this reason tomatoes can also be canned by the open- 



56 



kettle method, but other vegetables which do not contain so 
much acid will not keep. 

Cold-Pack Method of Canning 

In the can-cooked, or cold-pack, method the food is scalded 
or blanched in boiling water or steam, dipped into cold water, 
packed direct^ into the jars, and covered with boiling water, or 
with boiling s}Tup of the desired density, or with boiling fruit 
juice, usually sweetened. The covers are adjusted and the jars 
are placed on a rack in a large kettle and entirely surrounded 
by water, which should extend an inch over the top. The water 
should be quickly brought to the boiling point and boiled as long 
as is necessary to sterilize and cook the food which is contained 
in the jars. The can-cooked, or cold-pack, method can be used 
for fruits, vegetables, and meats. It offers little opportunity for 
spoilage because the jar and its contents are both thoroughly 
sterilized and the product canned retains its shape, color, and 
flavor well. The can-cooked, or cold-pack, method involves more 
labor and time on the part of the housewife and requires more 
fuel, but the excellent results that can be obtained when canning 
a considerable quantity of food are worth the additional labor 
and expense involved. 

For those vegetables which contain spores that are especially 
resistant to the heat, an intermittent process of sterilization is 
considered necessary in some parts of the country. When this 
method is used the vegetable is cooked in the can one hour or 
longer in the water bath on three or four successive days. At the 
end of each period of sterilization the jars are removed from 
the water bath. 

Processes in the Cold-Pack Method 

The three main processes necessary to success in the cold- 
pack method are blanching, dipping, and the sterilization, or 
processing, of the food which is being canned. 



57 



Blanching — Blanching consists in dipping the food into 
boiling water or live steam and leaving it immersed for from two 
to eight minutes according to the nature and the maturit}' of the 
food. (See time-table). Live steam is best for greens. Boiling 
water is desirable for other products. Berries and some soft 
fruits need not be blanched. The purpose of blanching is 
( 1 ) to prepare for the removal of the skin ; ( 2 ) to remove the 
strong flavor; (3) to eliminate objectionable acids; (4) to bring 
out the color; (5) to shrink the product, making possible a 
fuller pack; and (6) to make the product more flexible. 

Dipping — After blanching, the food should be cold-dipped ; 
that is, it should be dipped quickly into water which is as cold 
as possible and it should be removed immediately. Fresh water 
should be used for each dipping. If possible, it is desirable to 
accomplish the dipping process by allowing the water to run 
through the food. The purpose of dipping is (1) to set or 
coagulate the coloring matter so that it does not dissolve so easily 
during the sterilization period; (2) to harden the pulp beneath 
the skin; and (3) to make the food easier to handle in packing. 

Sterilization — Sterilization, or processing, consists in boil- 
ing the packed jars in a boiler or canner full of water, for a 
designated length of time. (See time-table.) The jars should be 
placed on a wooden rack in a covered boiler, which is used as, 
the canner. The canner should be filled with sufficient water to 
come over the top of the jars for at least one inch, thus forming a 
hot-water bath. The water should be boiling when the jars are 
put into the boiler. The jars should be in the boiler and the 
water about them should be kept at the boiling point long enough 
to make tender and to thoroughly sterilize the contents. Steriliza- 
tion, or processing, kills or renders ineffective the organisms 
within the jars which would cause the food to spoil. 



58 
GENERAL RULES FOR COLD-PACK CANNING 

1 Can only fresh, sound products. 

2 Sort, wash, and prepare the products. 

3 Blanch all green vegetables in steam; blanch all other 

vegetables and the hard and citrus fruits in boiling 
water. Do not blanch berries and other soft fruits. 

4 Dip the vegetables or fruits quickly into cold water and 

remove them immediately. 

5 Pack at once in clean, hot jars. 

6 Place scalded rubbers in position on the jars. 

7 Add Yz teaspoon of salt for each pint of vegetables. 

8 Fill jars of vegetables with boiling water; fill jars of 

fruit with hot syrup of density desired. Paddle 
out any air bubbles with a flat whittled stick one 
and one-half inches in width. 

9 Place cap in position. 

10 Partially tighten the tops of the glass jars by adjusting 

only the larger bail of the glass top jar, or by screw- 
ing the top of the Mason jar on completely, then 
turning it back one-fourth of a turn to loosen it. 

11 Place jars on the rack, lower them into the hot-water 

bath and boil 2 hours for greens; 1^ hours for 
roots and tubers; 3 hours for beans; 5 hours for 
corn and peas; 16 minutes for berries and soft 
fruits; 20 minutes for hard fruits; and 30 minutes 
for fruits without sugar. Begin to count the time 
when the water begins to boil vigorously or jumps. 

12 Be sure that the lid of canner is provided with a small 

hole to allow for escape of steam. 

13 Remove the jars from the boiler at the end of the 



59 



sterilization, or processing, period and seal imme- 
diately. 

14 Invert the jars to test the seal. If not sealed properly, 

determine the cause, remedy it, and re-sterilize in 
the hot-water bath for 10 minutes. 

15 Cool as quickly as possible, avoiding drafts. 

16 Label, wrap, and store jars in a cool, dark place. A 

uniform system of labelling will add to the attrac- 
tiveness of canned goods. Use labels of one size 
for all jars. Print the name of food and year on 
each label. Place the labels 4 inches from bottom of 
quart jars, 2 inches from bottom of pint jars, and 
1^2 inches from bottom of jelly glasses. Put the 
labels on straight. 

Cautions to be Observed when canning by the Cold-Pack 
Method 

1 Do not use old or decayed products. They will prob- 

ably spoil. 

2 Use one set of directions only and follow the time- 

table exactly. 

3 Can products as soon after gathering as possible, as 

fruits and vegetables deteriorate rapidly. 

4 Test all jars, covers, wire bails, rubbers, etc., to see if 

in good condition, or much loss may occur. 

5 Never use rubbers a second time. Jars, covers, etc., if 

in good condition, may be used from year to year. 

6 If wire bail or clamp does not go into position with a 

snap, remove it from jar and bend it so that it will 
be tighter. This is necessary for good results. 

7 Keep water as near the boiling point as possible during 

blanching and time accurately, then dip in and out 
of cold water quickly. Soaking may ruin good ma- 
terial. 



60 



8 If possible, have jars stand in hot water while pack- 

ing, to prevent their breaking when put into boiling 
water to process. Place each jar immediately into 
the hot-water bath as soon as filled. 

9 Have water in the boiler at the boiling point when the 

jars are immersed, and do not begin counting the 
time until after the last jar has been placed in the 
hot-water bath and the water has once more reached 
the boiling point. Over-cooking is less harmful 
than under-cooking. 

10 If no provision has been made for the escape of steam 

from the canner there is danger of the lid blowing 
off while sterilization is in process. 

11 Do not have jars or containers close together while 

cooking; they are apt to crack if they touch one 
another. 

12 As soon as the product is sterilized, or processed, for the 

stated length of time, remove the jars from the 
water-bath and seal them immediately so as to ex- 
clude all air. Never open a jar to replenish water 
that has decreased through shrinkage of material. 
The fact that there has been an apparent loss of 
liquid during the sterilization period does not im.- 
pair the keeping quality. 

13 Do not place hot jars on cold metal, as they may break; 

place on a board some distance apart so they may 
cool as quickly as possible. 

14 Do not tighten the lids further after the product has 

cooled as the seal will thereby be broken and air 
may enter the jar. 

15 Examine the jars after they have cooled over night, and 

if any of them look suspicious open them, put 
into other containers, cover with fresh boiling 



61 



liquid, use new rubbers, and reprocess at once half 
as long as the original time. 
16 After labeling, store the jars in a cool, dark place. 
Wrapping jars with paper prevents fading of foods. 

Equipment Necessary for Cold-Pack Canning 

1 wash-boiler or lard can with a cover which has been punc- 
tured to allow for escape of steam. 

1 wooden rack or false bottom to fit in bottom of boiler or lard 
can and to raise the jars one inch from the bottom of the 
boiler and allow the water to circulate beneath. If possible 
the rack should be supplied with long wire handles so 
that it may be put in and lifted out with all the jars on it 
at once. There should be a rim around the edge of the rack 
so that the jars will not slip off when being immersed or 
lifted out. 

Fruit jars with covers 

Rubber to fit jars 

1 jar-lifter if the rack is not provided with handles 

1 wire basket or cheese cloth to use when blanching 

1 colander in which to wash soft fruits and to drain fruits and 
vegetables which have been dipped 

1 wide-mouthed funnel 

1 flat wooden paddle 1^ inches wide 

Directions for Sterilizing Jars, Covers, and Rubbers 

Wash jars to which good covers have been fitted in hot 
soapy water and then rinse in clear hot water. Place a rack in 
the bottom of a dishpan or large kettle. Put 1 inch of cold 
water into the pan. Stand jars on the rack and put an inch of 
cold water in each jar. Put the covers on the rack beside the 
jars. Cover with a second dishpan. Bring the water slowly to 
boiling point and boil for at least 10 minutes. Remove only 



62 



one jar at a time when ready to fill. Never dry out the jar. Re- 
cover the dishpan each time a jar is removed. Keep water at the 
boiling point until all the jars needed have been used. Rubbers 
should not be sterilized with the jars, but should be placed in 
hot water off the stove about five minutes before using and re- 
moved one at a time as needed. 

CANNED VEGETABLES 

General directions for canning by the cold-pack method 
have already been given. The general rules should be followed, 
the cautions carefully observed with every recipe, and the time 
given for each process strictly adhered to. 

Time-Table for Canning Vegetables (Cold-Pack Method) 

STERILIZING OR 
VEGETABLE BLANCHING PROCESSING 

Asparagus 4 to 5 min 2 hrs. 

Beets 10 min l^/^ hrs. 

Carrots 8 min 1 14 hrs. 

Corn 3 min 5 hrs. 

Egg plant 5 min l^^^ hrs. 

Greens (Steam) 15 to 20 min 2 hrs. 

Lima beans 5 to 8 min 3 hrs. 

Okra 10 min 3 hrs. 

Peas 2 to 5 min. • 5 hrs. 

Sauerkraut 30 min. 

String beans 5 to 8 min 3 hrs. 

Sweet potatoes ........... 8 min 1}4 hrs. 

Tomatoes 1 min 22 min. 

Canned Asparagus (Cold-Pack Method) 

Select only young, tender asparagus. Can immediately. 
Grade as to size and wash carefully, removing large scales. 
Tie into bundles and plunge for 3 to 4 minutes into boiling 
water. Because the tips are more tender than the stalks, place 
lower ends in boiling water first; allow them to stand 2 or 3 
minutes; then immerse the whole bundle for 1 or 2 minutes 



63 



longer. Dip into cold water. Pack tips up, into jars which 
have been sterilized. Place rubbers in position. Fill jars 
with boiling brine (2 tablespoons salt to 1 quart of ^vater). Put 
caps in position. Place in hot-water bath and sterilize 2 
hours. Remove from bath, seal, invert to test, wrap, mark, and 
store for future use. 

Canned Beets (Cold-Pack Method) 

Grade the beets for size, color and degree of ripeness. Re- 
move tops, leaving at least one inch of stem on each beet. Wash 
thoroughly by using a vegetable brush, being careful not to 
break the skin, as that would cause loss of color. Cook in boil- 
ing water 10 minutes; plunge into cold water. Scrape to remove 
skin; pack w^hole, or in sections or cubes, into sterilized jars. 
Place rubbers in position. Add boiling water and 1 level tea- 
spoon of salt to each quart. Place tops in position and sterilize 
in hot-water bath 1^ hours. Remove from canner and tighten 
tops. Invert to test, mark, wrap, and store for future use. 

Canned Carrots (Cold-Pack Method) 

Carrots used for canning should be young and tender and 
not more than 1^ inches in diameter. Wash and blanch in 
boiling water 8 minutes. Dip into cold water, remove skin. 
Cut into lengths, slices, dice, or leave whole. Pack into ster- 
ilized jars. Place rubbers in position. Cover wdth boiling 
water; add 1 teaspoon salt to each quart. Place covers in posi- 
tion. Put into hot-w^ater bath and sterilize lJ/< hours. Remove, 
seal tightly, and invert to test. Wrap in paper, mark, and store 
for future use. 

The canning of carrots is not advised unless they cannot be 
stored successfully in their natural state. 

Canned Corn (Cold-Pack Method) 

Remove the husks and silk from sound ears of sweet 
corn that have been freshly gathered. Place in boiling water 



64 



for 3 minutes, then dip into cold water. Cut the corn from the 
cob and pack lightly to within an inch of the top of freshly 
washed and scalded jars. Place rubbers on jars. To each 
quart add 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar. Fill the jars 
w^ith boiling water, being careful to break up any air bubbles. 
Put caps in position. Arrange the jars on a rack and immerse 
in boiling water in a boiler or other large container. Cover the 
boiler and bring the water to the boiling point. Boil 5 hours. 
If necessary to replenish water in boiler, add boiling water. 
Remove the cans from the boiler, seal tightly, invert to test, and 
mark, then store for winter use. 

Canned Corn (Intermittent Method) 

Remove the husks and silk from sound ears of sweet corn 
that have been freshly gathered. Place in boiling water for 3 
minutes, then dip into cold water for 1 minute. Cut the corn 
from the cob and pack lightly to within an inch of the top of 
freshly washed and scalded jars. To each quart add 1 teaspoon 
salt and 1 teaspoon sugar. Fill the jars with boiling water, 
being careful to break up any air bubbles. Put the rubber and 
lid in position, but do not tighten the lid. Arrange the jars on a 
rack in a washboiler or other large container, surround with 
water, cover the boiler tightly and bring the water to the boiling 
point. Boil 15 minutes, then tighten the lids. Boil 1^ hours 
the first day. On the second and third days bring again to the 
boiling point and boil one hour each day. Remove the cans 
from the boiler, wipe them off, invert a few hours in order to 
discover leakage, and then store for winter use. 

Canned Eggplant 

Wash, peel, and slice sound eggplant. Blanch in boiling 
water for 5 minutes. Plunge quickly into cold water and pack 
carefully into sterilized jars. Place rubbers in position. Fill 
jars with boiling water. Add 1 teaspoon salt to every quart jar. 



65 



Put cap in position and sterilize in hot-water bath V/2 hours. 
Remove jars. Seal, invert to test, mark, and store for future 
use. 

Canned eggplant may be made into an attractive scalloped 
dish. 

Canned Greens (Cold-Pack Method) 

If it is not possible to secure fresh greens for the table all 
the year around, it may be feasible to can greens when they are 
abundant. Collards, swiss chard, kale, spinach, and beet tops 
may be satisfactorily canned. 

Can greens as soon after picking as possible. Sort and 
wash clean. Blanch by steaming in a steamer 15 to 20 minutes. 
Remove, plunge quickly into cold water; cut up slightly \vith 
a knife, and pack tightly into sterilized jars. Place rubbers 
and add 1 teaspoon salt to each quart of greens. Add boiling 
water to fill crevices. Break air bubbles with a wooden paddle. 
Place caps in position. Sterilize 2 hours in a hot-water bath. 
Remove from canner, tighten covers, invert to test, mark, wrap 
in paper to prevent bleaching. Store for future use. 

Canned Lima Beans (Cold-Pack Method) 

Follow the directions for canning peas, but allow 5 to 8 
minutes for blanching and sterilize 3 hours. 

Canned Okra (Cold-Pack Method) 

Young, tender pods of okra should be selected for canning. 
After it has been picked over and washed, remove the stems 
and blanch the pods in boiling w^ater for 10 minutes, then dip 
into cold water. Drain. Pack into sterilized jars and add 1 tea- 
spoon salt to each quart. Place rubbers in position. Fill jars 
with boiling water. Place caps in position and arrange jars on 
a rack, immersing them in boiling water in a boiler. Cover and 



66 



boil for 3 hours. Remove jars from the boiler, seal, and invert 
to test. Mark and store. 

Canned Peas (Cold-Pack Method) 

Can peas within a few hours of picking. Cull, shell, and 
grade the peas. Put in cheese cloth and plunge into boiling 
water for 2 to 5 minutes according to size. Remove and plunge 
quickly into cold water. Fill sterilized jars. Place rubbers 
in position. Add a level teaspoon of salt to each quart. Fill 
the jar with boiling water; break up air bubbles with a wooden 
paddle. Place caps in position. Place in hot-water bath and 
sterilize 5 hours. Remove jars, tighten covers, and invert to 
test. Cool, mark, wrap jars in paper, and store for future use. 

Sauerkraut 

Select solid heads of cabbage, look over carefully, remove 
the outside leaves, and cut into quarters, removing the core. Cut 
cabbage into fine shreds with a sharp knife or slaw-cutter. 
Put a layer of cabbage 5 inches in depth into a five-gallon stone 
crock, and sprinkle with salt, using 2 pounds salt to 100 
pounds cabbage ( about 2 bushels). One bushel of cabbage will 
make between 3 and 4 gallons of kraut. Add another five-inch 
layer of cabbage and sprinkle with salt. Stamp each time until 
brine appears. When last portion of cabbage and salt has 
been added and stamped, and brine appears well over the top, 
cover the top with a clean cloth and a plate or board to fit tightly 
into the crock. Weight cabbage down by placing a heavy weight 
on the plate, being careful not to use sandstone or limestone, as 
acid is apt to attack them. A gallon jug filled with water 
makes a good weight. Leave cabbage in a temperature of from 
60 to 70 degrees for about 2 weeks. Remove the white foam 
which daily rises to the top. Care must be taken that the 
cabbage is always covered with brine, adding more brine as 
necessary. When the brine has developed an acid taste it is 



6; 

ready for use. If it cannot be successfully kept in the crock, it 
may be stored in sealed jars. Pack the kraut into sterilized 
jars; place rubbers in position; fill jars with boiling water, 
place caps in position, and process 30 minutes in a hot- water 
bath. Remove jars, seal, mark, and store. 

If the kraut is to be made in a wooden keg instead of in a 
stone crock, the keg should be lined with clean, outside cabbage 
leaves to protect the kraut from the taste of the keg. 

Canned String Beans (Cold-Pack Method) 

Wash and string the green beans which have been freshly 
gathered. Plunge into boiling water 5 to 8 minutes according 
to size, and then plunge into cold water quickly. Drain. Pack 
into clean scalded jars and add 1 teaspoon salt to each quart 
jar. Place rubber in position and fill jar with boiling water, 
being careful to break any air bubbles. Place cap in position. 
Arrange the jars on a rack, immerse in boiling water in a wash- 
boiler, or other large container, cover the boiler, and bring the 
water to the boiling point. Boil 3 hours. Remove the jars 
from the boiler, tighten the tops, and invert to test. Mark, 
then store for winter use. 

Canned String Beans or Peas (Intermittent Method) 

Wash and string the green beans or 'shell the peas which 
have been freshly gathered. Plunge into boiling water for 10 or 
15 minutes, and then dip in cold water for 3 minutes. Pack 
into clean scalded jars and add 1 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon 
of vinegar to each quart jar. Place the rubber and lid in posi- 
tion. Arrange the jars on a rack in a washboiler or other large 
container, surround with water, cover tightly, and bring the 
water to the boiling point. Boil 15 minutes and tighten the lids. 
Boil 1^ hours the first day. On the second, third and fourth 
days, bring to the boiling point and boil 1 hour each day. On 
the fourth day remove the jars from the boiler, wipe them off 



68 



and invert them a few hours in order to discover leakage. Then 
store for winter use. 

Canned Sweet Potatoes (Cold Pack Method) 

Follow the recipe for canned carrots. 

The canning of sweet potatoes is not recommended unless 
they cannot be stored successfully in their natural state. 

Canned Tomatoes (Cold-Pack Method) 

Select ripe, sound tomatoes uniform in size. Can soon af- 
ter being picked. Wash, put in a wire basket, and lower into 
boiling water for 1 minute. Remove at once to prevent soften- 
ing. Plunge into cold water to make firmer. Peel immediately. 
Cut out cores with a pointed paring knife, being careful not to 
cut into the seeds. Pack tomatoes whole or in large pieces in 
sterilized jars; add 1 teaspoon each of sugar and salt to every 
quart of tomatoes. Place rubbers in position; fill jars with 
boiling water. Break up any air bubbles with a wooden paddle. 
Place caps in position. Immerse filled jars in a hot water bath 
and sterilize 22 minutes. Remove jars and seal. Invert to 
test, mark, wrap in paper, and store for future use. 

Canned Tomatoes (Open-Kettle Method) 

It is often desirable to can a few tomatoes at a time and for 
this purpose the housewife may desire to make use of the open- 
kettle method. Tomotoes may be satisfactorily canned in this 
way if all precautions concerning the sterilization of the cans 
and utensils used in the work are carefully observed. 

Select sound, ripe tomatoes. Scald and peel the tomatoes, 
cut in pieces, and boil gently, adding little or no watet, for 
thirty minutes. Add 1 teaspoon salt for every quart of tomatoes. 
Put a rubber on a sterilized jar. Pour the tomatoes into the 
jar, filling the jar full; place lid in position and immediately 
tighten the lid completely. Invert the jars to detect any leakage. 
When cool mark the jars, wrap, and store in a dark place. 



69 



PICKLES AND OTHER RELISHES 

Bacteria do not grow in substances that contain a large 
amount of acid; hence there is little danger of those pickles 
spoiling that have been j)repared with a large amount of vinegar. 
Cloves, cinnamon, mustard, and other spices also retard the 
growth of bacteria, hence they aid in the preservation of pickles 
and spiced foods. It is not necessary to process pickles. 

A variety of recipes for pickles and relishes are given be- 
cause of the great diversity of taste in the choice of pickles. A 
relish which one family enjoys may very seldom appear on the 
table in another home. 

Apple Chutney (Open-Kettle Method) 

1 2 sour apples 1 quart cider vinegar 

1 medium-size onion 1 cup currant or plum jelly 

2 green peppers 2 cups sugar 

1 red pepper 1 tablespoon salt 

1 cup raisins 1 tablespoon ground ginger 

4 lemons (juice) ^ teaspoon cayenne pepper 

Pare and core the apples. Peel the onion; remove seeds 
and stems from peppers; chop apples, onion, peppers, and rai- 
sins very fine. Add the juice of the lemons, 1 pint of the cider 
vinegar, and the currant or plum jelly. Let simmer very gently 
for 1 hour, stirring frequently. Then add remainder of vinegar, 
the sugar, salt, ginger, and pepper. Cook 1 hour more, stirring 
constantly. Put into sterilized jars and seal, mark, and store. 
Use for an accompaniment to cold meats or for salad on head 
lettuce. 

Chili Sauce (Open-Kettle Method) 

1 2 medium-sized ripe to- 1 tablespoon salt 

matoes 2 teaspoons ground cloves 

1 pepper, finely chopped 2 teaspoons ground cinna- 

1 onion, finely chopped mon 

2 cups vinegar 2 teaspoons ground allsj^ice 

3 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons grated nutmeg 



70 



Scald, peel, and slice the tomatoes. Put into a kettle with 
remaining ingredients, bring gradually to the boiling point, and 
cook slowly 2J/< hours. Put into sterilized bottles or jars. Seal. 
If corked bottles are used, dip necks into bottle wax or paraffin. 
Mark and store. Serve with meat and fish. 



Chow 


Chow 


y2 bushel green tomatoes 


2 tablespoons cinnamon 


1 dozen onions 


1 tablespoon allspice 


1 dozen green peppers 


1 tablespoon cloves 


Vinegar 


1 tablespoon peppercorns 


Salt 


y2 cup ground mustard 


2 pounds sugar 


1 pint horseradish 



Chop the vegetables fine, sprinkle with salt and let stand 
over night. In the morning drain well, then add vinegar to 
cover, and cook slowly 1 hour ; drain again and pack closely in a 
jar. 

Mix the sugar, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, peppercorns, 
ground mustard, and horse-radish with enough vinegar to cover 
well, then when l^oiling hot pour it over the mixture in the jar 
and cover tightly. 

Cucumber Pickles (Open-Kettle Method) 

500 midget cucumbers 1 pint water 

1 cup salt 1 piece alum 

1 quart small onions 2 cups sugar 

3 pints vinegar 2 ounces mustard seed 

Wash and wipe the cucumbers dry. Sprinkle with the salt 
and add cold water to cover. Let stand 24 hours. Put the vine- 
gar, water, alum, and sugar into a kettle. Add the cucumbers 
and onions. Heat slowly until scalded, but do not boil. When 
finished the pickles should be crisp. Boiling will soften them, 
hence follow directions closely. Remove pickles at once, pack 
into jars, and discard the liquid. Make a fresh vinegar solution 
with the same quantities of vinegar, water, alum, and sugar, add 



71 



the mustard seed, and let come to the Ijoiling point. Pour the 
boiling liquid over the pickles in the jars. Seal, mark, and store. 

Dixie Relish (Cold-Pack Method) 

1 quart chopped cabbage 5 tablespoons mustard seed 

1 pint chopped white onion 2 tablespoons celery seed 

1 pint chopped sweet red >)4 cup sugar 

pepper 1 quart vinegar 

1 pint chopped green pepper 5 tablespoons salt 

Wash peppers and soak them in brine (1 cup of salt to 1 
gallon of water) for 24 hours. Freshen in clear, cold water for 1 
to 2 hours. Drain well. Remove the seeds and the coarse white 
section. Chop separately and measure the chopped cabbage, 
onions, and peppers, before mixing. Add spices, sugar, and 
vinegar. Let stand over night in a covered crock or enamel 
dish. Use for filling stuffed peppers or pack into small, steril- 
ized jars. Place rubber and cap in position. Sterilize 15 minutes 
in hot water bath. Seal, invert to test, mark, wrap, and store 
for future use. 

Green-Tomato Pickles (Open-Kettle Method) 

1 peck green tomatoes, sliced 1 cup salt 

6 large onions, sliced 1 quart vinegar 

Wash and slice the green tomatoes and onions and let them 
stand together over night. Next day boil them in 2 quarts of 
water and the vinegar for 15 minutes. Pour off this vinegar and 
then boil the vegetables in the following mixture 

2 pounds light brown sugar 2 tablespoons mustard 
2 quarts vinegar 1 tablespoon allspice 

2 tablespoons cloves 2 tablespoons cinnamon 

If a lighter product is desired, whole spices may be used, 

tied in a cheese-cloth bag. Four times the amount given above 

will be needed if whole spices are used. After the tomatoes have 

boiled 5 minutes, pack in sterilized jars. Seal, mark, and store. 



72 



Pickled Apples (Open-Kettle Method) 

1 peck sweet apples ^"2 ounce cinnamon stick 
3 pounds sugar I/2 ounce cloves, whole 

2 quarts vinegar 

Wash, quarter, and pare the apples. Make a syrup of the 
vinegar and sugar, and add the spices tied in a small piece of 
cheese-cloth. Boil the apples in the syrup until they can be 
pierced easily with a fork, but do not allow thera to become 
broken. Put the apples into a sterilized jar and cover with the 
boiling syrup. Seal at once. Test, mark, and store. 

Pickled Beets (Open-Kettle Method) 

Wash beets well, leaving one inch of stem on each beet. 
Cook in boiling water until the beets are soft when pressed with 
a fork — about 2 hours (this is dependent upon the size of the 
beets). After beets have been boiled, dip into cold water, skin, 
and slice. Make a thin syrup, using ^ gallon vinegar, 2 cups 
sugar, 2'/3 tablespoons salt, and Vs teaspoon pepper for each 
peck of beets. Put sliced beets into the boiling vinegar and cook 
5 minutes. Put into sterilized jars, fill with hot liquid, and seal. 
Invert to test, mark, and store. 

Pickled Onions (Open-Kettle Method) 

1 peck small white onions 1 cup sugar 

5 tablespoons salt II/2 tablespoons mustard seed 

.5^ gallon water 1 tablespoon salt 

4 or 5 small red peppers 1 tablespoon stick cinna- 

Yz gallon vinegar mon 

1 ^ tablespoons celery seed 1 tablespoon cloves 

^ cup grated horseradish 

Pick over, wash, and sort the onions. Peel and cover with 
water; let stand in a cool place for two days; change the water 
on the second day. On the third day wash the onions well, and 
put them into a brine made of salt and water, for four days, 
keeping as cool as possible. At the same time prepare a spiced 



73 



vinegar with the remaining ingredients. Tie the spices in a 
cheese-cloth bag, leaving them in the vinegar for four days. 
Change the brine on the onions on the second day. On the fourth 
day take onions out of the brine and put into boiling water; let 
stand 10 minutes; then put into cold water for 2 hours. Drain 
and pack the onions into small jars, adding the small red pep- 
pers or slices of red and green peppers. Fill the jars to over- 
flowing with the spiced vinegar. This amount will make about 
6 pints. Seal, mark and store. 

Pickled Peaches 

8 pounds peaches 4 pounds sugar 

2 or 3 cloves in each 1 pint vinegar 

Wash the peaches, but do not peel them. Remove the buds 
from the ends of the cloves and insert 2 or 3 cloves in each 
peach. Boil peaches in a syrup made of the sugar and vinegar 
until tender, drain off the syrup and put peaches on platters over 
night. Set the syrup aside to cool. The next day put the cold 
peaches into sterilized jars and pour the cold syrup over them. 
Seal, mark, and store. 

Pickled Pears 

Follow the recipe for pickled apples. 

Sliced Cucumber Pickles (Open Kettle Method) 

1 dozen cucumbers 
1 dozen onions 
ys cup salt 
Cucumbers about 2 inches in diameter and 4 inches long 
are best to use. Slice the cucumbers and onions in Vs inch 
pieces, add salt, and let stand two hours; drain. Boil the fol- 
lowing ingredients: — 

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon mustard seed 

1 cup vinegar 1 teaspoon cassia buds or 

1 teaspoon celery seed stick cinnamon 



74 



Add drained cucumbers and onions to this hot liquid and 
boil 15 minutes. Put into sterilized jars and seal. Mark and 
store. 

Spiced Pears 

7 pounds pears 8 whole cloves 

3 pounds sugar 8 whole allspice 

1 pint vinegar 2 sticks cinnamon 

^ lemon rind ^ ounce ginger root 

Cut the pears in half, remove the seeds and pare. Put the 
vinegar and sugar on to boil. Into each piece of pear stick 
three or four cloves. Divide the cinnamon, allspice, and ginger 
in two parts, put into small pieces of cheesecloth, tie tightly, 
and then throw them into the sugar and vinegar. When the 
mixture begins to simmer, add the pears and lemon rind, bring 
all to boiling point, take from the fire, and turn carefully into 
a stone jar. Stand in a cool place over night. Next day drain 
all the syrup from the pears into a porcelain-lined or agate 
kettle, cook over a moderate fire, and when boiling hot pour it 
back into the jar over the pears. Next day drain and heat 
again as before; do this for five consecutive days. The last 
day boil the syrup down until there is just enough to cover 
the fruit. Add the fruit to the hot syrup, bring the whole to a 
boil, and put in stone or glass jars, or tumblers. The pears 
may be finished in one day, by taking out the fruit and cooking 
the syrup slowly down to the right amount, adding the fruit to 
reheat it, and fi-nishing as above. The fruit is less rich if 
done this way. 

Spiced Prunes (Open-Kettle Method) 

1 pound prunes Yz ounce whole cloves 

1 pint vinegar 1 ounce stick cinnamon 

2 cups sugar 

Wash the prunes well and soak in cold water 12 hours, 
pour the water off. Make a syrup of vinegar and sugar, and add 



75 



spices tied in a small piece of cheese-cloth. Add the prunes 
to syrup and simmer slowly until very tender. Pack in sterilized 
jars. Cover with boiling syrup. Seal, mark, and store. 

Stuffed Peppers (Cold-Pack Method) 

Soak sweet peppers in brine (1 cup salt to 1 gallon of 
water) for 24 hours. When ready to stuff, take them from the 
brine, rinse in fresh water, carefully cut a circle off the top of 
each pepper, and save to be placed on peppers after stuffing. 
Remove seeds and white Sections and soak peppers in clear water 
1 or 2 hours ; drain carefully. Fill the peppers with Dixie Relish 
being careful not to press it in too tightly. Place the tops on 
the peppers and make each secure by one or two stitches of 
thread, or keep in place by fastening with two or three wooden 
tooth picks. Pack as many stuffed peppers as can be placed in 
a jar without crushing them. Fill jar with spiced vinegar. 
Process 15 minutes in hot-water bath. Remove, seal, invert to 
test, wrap, and store for future use. 

Tomato Ketchup (Open-Kettle Method) 

12 ripe tomatoes 2 tablespoons ginger 

2 large onions 1 tablespoon cinnamon 

4 green peppers . 1 tablespoon mustard 

2 tablespoons salt 1 nutmeg (grated) 

4 tablespoons brown sugar 1 quart vinegar 

Peel the tomatoes and onions. Chop the onions and peppers 
fine. Boil all the ingredients together slowly for 3 hours, or 
until very soft, stirring frequently. Strain and reheat. Pour 
into sterilized bottles, cork, and seal immediately with bottle wax 
or paraffin. Mark and store. Serve with meat and fish. 
Tomato Relish (Uncooked) 

1 peck ripe tomatoes jX cup mustard seed 

1 cup salt 2 cups sugar 

2 cups chopped celery 1 teaspoon cinnamon 
2 cups chopped onions 1 teaspoon cloves 

6 red peppers, chopped fine 1 quart vinegar 



76 



Scald and skin the tomatoes and cut them in dice. Add 
the salt to the tomatoes and let them stand over night. Drain 
thoroughly. Add the remaining ingredients. Mix well. Put 
into sterilized jars and seal. Mark and store. 

Watermelon-Rind Pickles 

1 medium watermelon rind ^ cup cassia buds 

3 pounds sugar 4 pieces ginger root 

1 pint vinegar 
Cut the watermelon rind into strips three inches long 
and one inch wide. Peel and remove all pink part. Steam over 
boiling water till the watermelon can be pierced with a fork. 
Boil the sugar and vinegar to a heavy syrup. Add the cassia 
buds, ginger root, and watermelon. Cook slowly until the water- 
melon rind is transparent. Pack into small sterilized jars. This 
recipe will make 6 pints. Seal, mark, and store. 

CANNED MEATS 
Canned Beef or Pork (Cold-Pack Method) 

Fresh meat may be kept indefinitely by canning according 
to the following directions: — 

Cut meat into pieces about 3 or 4 inches square, removing 
all bones. Dust lightly with a mixture of salt and pepper. Pack 
tightly into sterilized jars and see that there are several fat 
pieces on top. Place rubbers on jars and put caps in place. Boil 
steadily in a hot- water bath for 4 hours. When done, remove 
from bath, tighten lids, and invert to test. When moderately 
cooled, dip tops into paraffin. The next day the meat may have 
settled to about three-fourths the jar content and it should have 
a thick coating of fat on top. Mark the jars, wrap in paper, and 
put in a dark place. When ready to use, set the jar in a pan of 
hot water, and the meat will come out more readily. 



77 



Canned Chicken (Cold-Pack Method) 

Cook the chicken till tender in hot water, adding 1 table- 
spoon salt after the chicken has cooked 15 minutes. Remove 
the bones, pack meat into jars, and follow directions as for 
canned beef. 

CANNED FRUITS 

Almost all fruits give satisfactory results when canned, 
and the thrifty housewife will have a large number of jars of 
canned fruits on the pantry shelves. General directions for 
canning must be observed and can be applied to local fruits not 
named in the tables and recipes. 

A fruit is preserved in more nearly its natural condition if 
the cold-pack method is followed, but the open-kettle method 
can be satisfactorily employed with most fruits. 

The thickness of the syrup may be varied according to the 
acidity of the fruit — 1 cup of sugar to 3 cups of water for a 
very sweet syrup, 1 cup of sugar to 5 cups of water for a thin 
s}Tup. When sugar is scarce the amount used may be reduced 
to 1 cup of sugar to 9 cups of water and the fruit will still be 
found sufficiently sweet to be palatable. 

The sugar used in canning serves only to sweeten the 
fruit and to bring out its flavor. When used in proportions for 
canning, it does not form a sufficiently dense syrup to aid in 
the preservation of the fruit, as it does in preserves, jams, and 
marmalades. Therefore fruits can be canned without sugar 
and will keep indefinitely if the principles of sterilization are 
strictly observed. However, an additional amount of labor is 
involved when the sugar must be added at the time of serving 
the fruit, and most housekeepers prefer to have the fruit sweet- 
ened for serving when it is canned unless sugar is scarce or its 
price prohibitive. 



78 



Sugar Substitutes to be Used in Canning 

Because of the increased price of sugar and the frequent 
shortage of supply, it is sometimes desirable to substitute other 
sweetening substances when canning fruits. Corn syrup, glu- 
cose, honey, maple syrup, molasses, and sorghum may be used 
in place of part or of all of the sugar in canning. With the 
exception of honey, the syrups are less sweet than sugar; there- 
fore, more syrup will be required to secure the same degree of 
sweetness. However, it is not necessary to use so large an amount 
of sugar as many recipes give, and it would be well if a taste 
for foods that are less sweet should be acquired. 

For canned fruits, syrups may be entirely substituted for 
sugar. For preserves and marmalades at least twenty-five per 
cent of sugar should be used in combination with the syrup. In 
jellies it is desirable to use at least fifty per cent of sugar with 
the syrup substituted. 

Time-Table for Canning Fruits 

(Cold-Pack Method) 

MATERIALS BLANCHING STERILIZING OR 

PROCESSING 

Apples . . • • 1 14 min 20 minutes 

Apricots 2 min. ...... 16 minutes 

■ Blackberries 16 minutes 

Cherries • • 16 minutes 

Dewberries 16 minutes 

Gooseberries 1 min 20 minutes 

Peaches 2 min • • 16 minutes 

Pears 20 to 35 minutes 

Plums . . • • 20 minutes 

Raspberries 16 minutes 

Strawberries 16 minutes 

Canned Apples (Cold-Pack Method) 

Wash, quarter, pare, and core sound apples. Blanch 1^ 



79 



minutos in boiling water. Plunge quickly into cold water. Pack 
in sterilized jars. Place rubbers in position. Fill crevices in 
jars with boiling syrup which has been prepared by using 1 
cup of sugar to 5 cups of water. Break up any air-bubbles with 
a small wooden paddle. Place cap in position. Place filled 
jars in hot-water bath and sterilize 20 minutes. Remove from 
boiler, seal, invert to test, mark, wrap, and store. 

Canned Apricots (Cold-Pack Method) 

Follow the recipe for canned peaches. 

Canned Cherries (Cold-Pack Method) 

Wash, stem, and stone cherries. Pack in sterilized jars. 
Place rubbers in position. Fill jars with boiling syrup made by 
using 1 cup of sugar to 3 cups of water. Break up any air-bub- 
bles v/ith a small wooden paddle. Place cap in position. Place 
filled jars in hot- water bath and sterilize 16 minutes. Re- 
move from boiler, seal, invert to test, mark, wrap, and store. 

Cherries can also be successfully canned by the open- 
kettle method because they contain so large an amount of acid. 

Canned Blackberries (Cold-Pack Method) 

Follow the recipe for canned dewberries. 

Canned Dewberries (Cold-Pack Method) 

Rinse fruit by pouring water over it through a strainer. 
Remove stems and any dried berries. Pack immediately into 
clean, sterilized jars; place rubbers on jars; and fill with syrup 
made of 1 cup of sugar and 3 cups of water. Cook syrup slightly 
and fill jars. Place cap in position, partially tighten, and put 
into hot-water bath and sterilize 16 minutes. Remove the jar, 
seal, and invert to test. Mark, wrap, and store for future use. 

Canned Gooseberries (Cold-Pack Method) 

Pick over and remove stems and buds from gooseberries. 
Wash. Blanch 1 minute in boiling water. Dip into cold water. 



80 



Pack closely into sterilized jars. Put rubbers in position. Fill 
with boiling syrup, using 1 cup of sugar to 3 cups of water. 
Break up any air bubbles with a wooden paddle. Put cap in 
position. Sterilize in hot-water bath 20 minutes. Remove, seal, 
invert to test, mark, wrap, and store. 

Canned Gooseberries (Cold Water) 

Green gooseberries may be canned in cold water in the 
same way in which rhubarb is canned, because they also con- 
tain a large amount of acid. 

Canned Peaches (Cold-Pack Method) 

Immerse firm peaches in boiling water for 2 minutes. Dip 
quickly into cold water. Remove the skin, cut in halves, and 
pack neatly in sterilized jars. Place rubbers. Add boiling 
syrup made by cooking sugar and water in proportion of 1 cup 
of sugar to 3 cups of water. Break up any air bubbles with a 
wooden paddle. Place cap in position, sterilize filled jars in hot- 
water bath 16 minutes. Remove jars, secure caps tightly, 
invert to test, mark, wrap in paper, and store for future use. 

Canned Peaches (Open-Kettle Method) 

16 pounds prepared peaches 1 quart water 

6 pounds sugar 

Select firm fruit. Peel the peaches or put them into a wire 
basket and plunge into a pan of boiling water. In two minutes 
take them out and remove the skins. Cut in halves. Make 
a syrup of the sugar and water, and when it boils add enough 
peaches to fill a jar. When soft, put them into sterilized jars. 
Cover with boiling syrup, add three nuts from the peach stones 
to each jar. Break up any air-bubbles with a sterilized paddle. 
Seal at once. Invert to test, mark, and store. 



81 



Canned Pears (Cold-Pack Method) 

Follow directions for canned apples. It will be necessary 
to allow a longer time for sterilizing very hard pears, 30 to 35 
minutes. 

Canned Plums (Cold-Pack Method) 

Pick over and wash the plums. Prick each plum with a 
needle to prevent the bursting of the skin when cooking. Pack 
closely into sterilized jars. Place rubbers in position. Fill 
jars with boiling syrup, using 2 cups of sugar to 3 cups of water. 
Place caps in position. Sterilize in hot- water bath 15 to 20 
minutes according to size. Remove, seal, invert to test, mark, 
and store. 

Canned Plums (Open-Kettle Method) 

Pick over and wash the plums. Prick each plum with a 
needle to prevent the bursting of the skin when cooking. Pre- 
pare a syrup, using 2 cups of sugar to 3 cups of water if the 
plums are very sour. When syrup boils add the plums and 
cook till plums are soft but not broken up. Pour into sterilized 
jars after putting rubber in place. Place caps on jars and seal. 
Invert to test, mark, and store. 

Canned Rhubarb (Cold Water) 

Pare rhubarb and cut in 1-inch pieces. Pack into a steri- 
lized jar. Put under cold-water faucet and let water run into the 
jar for 20 minutes. Then screw on cover. 

Because of the large amount of strong acid in rhubarb, it 
will keep indeiinitely when canned in cold water without the 
application of heat. 

Canned Strawberries (Cold-Pack Method) 

Follow the directions given for canning cherries by the 
cold-pack method, using a syrup made with 1 cup of sugar to 
5 of water. 



82 



JELLY MAKING 



The art of preparing jellies from the juice of fruits is one 
in which every housewife is eager to perfect herself. One can 
point with justifiable pride to the shelf of well-made jellies 
that are going to increase the attractiveness of the family table 
and add to the palatability of a diet which might otherwise be 
monotonously simple. A few fundamental principles must be 
borne in mind if one is to become expert in jelly making. 

ESSENTIALS TO JELLY MAKING 

Pectin, the jelly-making property of fruits — The substance 
in fruit juice that causes the juice to thicken and form a jelly 
after it has cooked is called pectin. This substance is present 
in different quantities in various fruits; hence some fruits can 
readily be made into a jelly, while a jelly cannot be successfully 
made from other fruits. The amount of pectin varies at dif- 
ferent stages of ripeness of the fruit. Pectin is present in 
largest quantity in fruits that are slightly under ripe. Over- 
ripe fruits contain less pectin. Pectin is found near the skin 
or around the core of fruit ; hence clean parings and sound cores 
should be cooked with the fruit when making jellies. 

Acid necessary in making jelly — In addition to pectin, it 
is necessary that fruits contain acid or that acid be added to 
the fruit juice when jelly is being made. Most fruits which are 
good for jelly-making contain sufficient acid, but occasionally 
quinces and berries do not have sufficient acid present. If the 
juice of these fruits is then combined with the juice of apples or 
other tart fruit, they can be made into good jellies. 

Sugar in jellies — ^While sugar is not necessary to the solidi- 
fying of fruit juice, it is necessary to add sugar to render the 
jelly palatable. The amount of sugar may be varied within 
certain limits according to the flavor of the fruit. The quantity 



83 



of sugar used will vary from one-half as much sugar as juice to 
equal parts of sugar and juice. More sugar than juice is apt 
to interfere with the formation of the jelly and a syrupy sub- 
stance result. 

Cooking the jelly — The juice is best extracted from the fruit 
by cooking. With soft fruits practically no water needs be 
added. With apples and quinces it is necessary to cover the 
fruit with water in order that the pectin may be drawn out. 
After the fruit has been cooked sufficiently to soften the pulp and 
draw out the juices, it should be strained through a flannel or 
muslin bag or a bag made of two thicknesses of cheese-cloth. 
Two or three hours will be sufficient time to allow for straining, 
then the juice should be reheated. If much water has been added 
when extracting the juice, or if the fruit contains much water, it 
should be boiled for fifteen or twenty minutes to evaporate excess 
of water before adding the sugar. After the sugar has been 
added, it should not be necessary to cook the juice more than 
eight or ten minutes before the jellying point is reached. The 
best jelly results when only a small amount of juice is cooked 
at one time (not more" than 3 cups). 

Test for jelly — The juice is ready to form a jelly when it 
begins to sheet from the spoon, that is, when the spoon is dipped 
into the jelly and raised above it two drops will come from the 
edge of the spoon at the same time. The jelly should then be 
quickl}^ removed from the fire and poured into sterilized glasses. 

Fruit best for jelly making — The fruits which make the 
best jellies are apples, crab-apples, quinces, green grapes^ red 
currants, plums, gooseberries, and firm, hard berries such as 
blackberries, dewberries, and logan berries. These same fruits 
do not make a good jelly if they are not sour; therefore it is 
often necessary to combine one fruit with another fruit that 
contains more acid. 



84 



To Make Jelly 

Pick the fruit over carefully and wash it thoroughly. Re- 
move any decayed or imperfect portions, but do not discard the 
skins and sound cores because of the presence of pectin in those 
portions. Cut up large fruits and, if hard, add sufficient water 
to cover them. No water need be added to soft fruits. Cook 
the fruit until tender. Pour into a jelly bag and strain. Reheat 
the strained juice, boiling it long enough to evaporate any excess 
of water (15 to 20 minutes), then add the sugar, and cook from 
8 to 10 minutes longer. Test (see test for jelly). Remove from 
the fire and pour into sterilized jelly glasses. When cold cover 
with a thin sheet of melted paraffin, then put the tin top over 
the jelly glass or draw a clean paper neatly over the top. Label 
the jelly glass neatly with the name of the fruit and the date. 
When jelly is used, paraffin may be washed and reserved for use 
another time. 

Canned Fruit Juice for Jelly Making 

When sugar is scarce or high in price, the juice of fruit 
may be extracted as for jelly and canned for winter use. Fill 
sterilized jars with the boiling juice. Place rubbers and caps in 
position. Sterilize in hot-water bath 15 minutes. Remove 
from boiler. Seal, invert to test, mark and store. 

When ready to use as jelly, the jars can be opened, the 
juice reheated, sugar added, and jelly made in the usual man- 
ner. Many housewives prefer to prepare their jellies fresh in this 
way throughout the winter. 

Apple Jelly 

4 quarts apples 2 quarts water for fall apples 

1 pound sugar to or 

1 quart juice 3 quarts water for winter 

apples 
Cook the apples till soft but not mealy. Pour into flannel 



85 



bag. Press lightly, but not to make the pulp come through. 
Boil the juice 20 minutes. Stir in the sugar quickly, dissolve, 
strain the jelly again. Boil until two drops come from the spoon 
at the same time in two different places. Pour into sterilized 
glasses. When cool, cover with a thin layer of melted paraffin 
and a tin or paper cover. Label and store. 

Blackberry Jelly 

Follow the recipe for dewberry jelly. 

Crab-Apple Jelly 

Remove the blossoms and all decayed portions from the 
fruit; if large, cut into pieces, but do not pare or remove the 
seeds. Cover with cold water. Cook until the crab-apples are 
soft. Drain, first in a colander, then in a jelly bag. Use the 
juice only and do not press the bag except for a second-grade 
jelly. To 1 cup of juice, use ^ cup sugar. Boil the juice slowly 
for 15 minutes; add the sugar and boil for 5 minutes, skimming 
as often as necessary. Test. Pour into jelly glasses and when 
hard cover with melted paraffin. Put a tin cover over the glass, 
mark, and store. 

Currant Jelly 

Follow recipe for grape jelly. 

Dewberry Jelly 

Wash berries by placing them in a strainer or colander and 
pouring water gently through them. Crush and let berries 
simmer 5 to 10 minutes to extract juice. Pour into a jelly bag 
and let drain into an open crock. Cook a small quantity at a 
time. When juice comes to the boiling point, add sugar, using 
^ cup sugar to every cup of juice. Cook until two drops come 
from a spoon in two different places at the same time. Remove 
from fire at once and pour into sterilized jelly glasses. Cool 
jelly in the sun if possible, as this gives a clearer product. 



86 



When cool, cover with a thin layer of paraffin and a tin cover 
or paper to protect jar from dust. Mark and store. 

Grape Jelly 

Pick grapes when under ripe. Remove from stems, pick- 
ing them over carefully. Wash by placing in a strainer or 
colander, pouring water gently through them. Crush and sim- 
mer grapes 5 to 10 minutes to extract juice. Pour into a jelly 
bag and let drain into an open crock. Measure and use 1 cup 
of sugar to each cup of juice, adding the sugar after the juice 
has begun to boil. Cook rapidly until two drops come from 
the spoon in two different places at the same time. Remove from 
fire at once and pour into sterilized jelly glasses. When cool, 
cover with a thin layer of paraffin and a tin cover or paper to 
protect jar from dust. Mark and store. 

Loganberry Jelly 

Follow the recipe for dewberry jelly. 

Plum Jelly 

Pick over and wash the plums well, removing the stems. 
Put into a kettle and add just enough water to keep from burn- 
ing, 1 inch of water to 5 inches of fruit. After the skins have 
burst and the plums are tender, strain through a jelly bag. Boil 
the juice with Vs cup sugar for every cup of juice, adding the 
sugar after the juice has begun to boil. Cook rapidly until two 
drops come from the spoon in two different places at the same 
time. Remove from fire at once and pour into sterilized jelly 
glasses. M'hen cool, cover with a thin layer of paraffin and a 
tin cover or paper to protect jar from dust. Mark and store. 

Plum Preserves 

After the first extraction of juice from the plums in making 
plum jelly, the pulp may be reserved for preserves. When it is 
cool enough to handle, remove the seeds, add an equal portion of 



87 



sugar, and cook to proper consistency for plum preserves. Pour 
into sterilized glasses. When cool, cover with a thin layer of 
melted paraffin. Cover to protect from dust. Mark and store. 

Quince Jelly 

Follow the recipe for apple jelly. If the quinces are not 
very sour, combine with tart apples when making jelly. Use 
equal quantities of quince and apple. 

JAMS, MARMALADES, AND PRESERVES 

Jams, marmalades, and preserves are canned by the open- 
kettle method, because it is necessary to cook them long and 
slowly with a large amount of sugar in order to evaporate the 
water and secure the density desired. Bacteria do not grow 
readily in a dense syrup, hence jams, marmalades, and pre- 
serves do not spoil readily, and it is not necessary to process 
them. 

Apple Butter 

A good apple butter may be made from the pulp that is 
left after extracting the juice from apples or crab apples when 
making jelly, if some juice remains in the pulp. Put the pulp 
through a colander to remove skins and seeds. Weigh pulp and 
use the following amounts of sugar and ground spices to every 
5 pounds of apple pulp : 2 pounds sugar, ^ tablespoon allspice, 
Yz tablespoon cinnamon, 1 tablespoon cloves. Add sugar and 
spices to pulp and cook until of desired thickness. Stir fre- 
quently to prevent burning. Test on a cold saucer. The out- 
side surface of the portion tested should show a slight sheen 
upon -standing. Pour into sterilized jars or jelly glasses. When 
cool, cover with paraffin, mark, and store. 

Apricot Marmalade 

Pick over the apricots. Plunge them in hot water for 2 
minutes, remove skins, cut the apricots in halves, and remove 



88 



the stones. Weigh the fruit and allow Va of the weight in sugar. 
Mix the fruit and sugar and let stand over night to dissolve the 
sugar. In the morning bring, to the boiling point and boil 20 to 
30 minutes. When the juice shows a jelly-like consistency and 
the fruit is traiisparent, pour into sterilized jelly glasses or jars. 
When cool, cover with a thin layer of paraffin and a tin or 
paper cover to exclude dust. Mark and store. 

A small quantity of fresh pineapple combined with the 
apricots makes an especially palatable marmalade. 

Carrot Marmalade 

4 pounds carrots 2 lemons, grated rind 

8 cups corn syrup 1 orange, juice and rind 

3 cups sugar 3/^ pound raisins, chopped 

10 lemons, juice 
Wash and scrape the carrots. Boil till tender and chop fine, 
using a chopping knife and bowl. Simmer the chopped carrots 
and syrup together 30 minutes; then add the other ingredients 
and cook until thick and jelly-like. Put into sterilized jelly 
glasses. Cover with a thin layer of paraffin. Mark and store. 

Currant Conserve 

5 oranges 5 pounds sugar 

5 pounds currants or 2 pounds raisins 

gooseberries 
Boil the rind of 3 oranges until tender, scrape out the bitter 
white portion, and slice the yellow rind. Combine the currants, 
sugar, orange pulp, chopped rind, and raisins, and boil all to- 
gether 20 minutes. Turn into sterilized jars; seal at once. 

Fig Preserves 

3 pounds whole ripe figs 1 or 2 pieces ginger root 

3 pounds sugar 1 lemon, juice and rind 

1 pint water 1 orange, juice and rind 

Put the figs into a boiling soda solution (1 cup soda to 6 



89 



quarts boiling water) and let stand for 5 minutes. Drain off 
the soda solution and wash figs thoroughly in two baths of 
cold water. 

Boil the sugar and water, add the ginger root and cleaned 
figs, and cook the figs until very tender. Add orange and 
lemon juice and rind. Boil a few minutes longer, fill sterilized 
jars, and seal. Mark and store. 

Grape Jam 

1 basket ripe grapes Sugar 

Remove the grapes from the stem. Wash them and press 
the pulp from the skins. Boil the pulp until it will separate 
from the seeds. Rub through a sieve. Add the skins to the 
pulp and boil with an equal weight of sugar for 15 minutes. 
Put into sterilized jars and seal at once. Mark and store. 

Green-Tomato Mince Meat (Cold-Pack Method) 

1 peck green tomatoes 2 tablespoons salt 

1 pound beef suet 2 tablespoons ground 
Yz cup vinegar cinnamon 

2 cups chopped aj^ples 1 teaspoon ground cloves 

2 pounds raisins 2 teaspoons ground nutmeg 

2^ pounds brown sugar 
Slice tomatoes very thin or put through a food chopper. 
Drain ; cover with cold water ; place over fire and boil 5 minutes. 
Drain well; add suet, vinegar, fruit, sugar, and seasonings. 
Return to fire and simmer 35 to 45 minutes. Pack hot into 
sterilized jars and cook in hot-water bath 15 minutes. Remove, 
seal, invert to test, mark, and store for future use. 

Orange or Grape Fruit Marmalade 

15 oranges or grapefruit Sugar 

3 lemons 

Wash, pare, and weigh the fruit, remove the peel in quar- 
ters, reserving it for use, cut or shred the fruit fine, keeping the 



90 



seeds separate. Add 1 quart water to 1 pound fruit, reserving 
from the entire quantity of water 1 pint for seeds. Let this 
stand 36 hours covered; stir occasionally. Strain the water 
from the seeds and add it to the fruit ;boil this mixture down one- 
half. Cook the peel until soft in enough boiling water to cover; 
drain; remove the white part by scraping with a spoon. Cut the 
thin yellow rind in strips, using a pair of scissors. Add to the 
marmalade 1 hour before it has finished boiling. When the 
marmalade is cool enough, measure, and to every pint of fruit 
add 1 pound of sugar, slowly, stirring all the time. Boil steadily 
20 to 30 minutes, or until the mixture jellies. Pour the mar- 
malade into sterilized jars and seal. Mark and store. 

Peach Jam 

2 pounds peaches 1 inch ginger root 

^ teaspoon allspice 1 sprig mace 

2 teaspoons stick cinnamon 1 pound sugar 
1 teaspoon cloves 

Wash, peel, and slice the peaches. Reserve and crack one 
stone. Tie the spices and peach seed in a cheese-cloth bag. 
Cook all materials together until sufficiently thickened (about 
30 to 50 minutes). A good test is to place a small amount on 
a saucer and when pushed to one side with a spoon a wrinkled 
appearance should result. Pour into sterilized glasses. Cover 
with a thin layer of melted paraffin. Cover with a tin lid or 
paper cover. Mark and store. 

Pineapple Marmalade 

1 cup pineaj)ple, shredded 1 lemon, juice and rind 

or cut in small pieces 7 cups sugar 

6 cups rhubarb, sliced in 2 tablespoons blanched 

Yz inch pieces almonds, chopped 
Boil the pineapple and rhubarb together 10 minutes, then 

add the lemon juice and rind, sugar, and almonds, and boil 
until thick, ^ hour or more. 



91 



Pour the marmalade into sterilized jars and seal at once. 
Mark and store. 

Pear Preserves 

2 pounds pears 1 lemon 

iy2 pounds sugar 4 pieces ginger root 

2 cups water 

Make a syrup of the sugar and water, adding the ginger 
root and the lemon rind cut in thin strips. 

Pare and core the pears, cutting them into halves, quar- 
ters, or eighths. If the pears are hard, boil them first in clear 
water until they can be easily pierced with a fork. 

Add the lemon and the pears to the syrup and cook until 
the pears are tender and clear. Pack into sterilized jars, cover 
with the syrup, seal, test, and mark. 

Pineapple Preserves 

1 pineapple Sugar 

Select ripe pineapple, split with a wooden stick and re- 
move little sections, or pare and shred with a silver fork. To 
each pound of fruit, add ^^ pound sugar. Heat slowly and cook 
till tender and transparent. Put into jars and seal at once. 
Mark and store. 

Plum Butter 
Follow recipe for plum preserves, putting pulp through a 
sieve before adding sugar. 

Plum Preserves 

See recipe for plum jelly 

Quince Preserves 

6 pounds prepared quinces 1 quart water in which the 

5 pounds sugar quinces were cooked 

Wipe, quarter, pare, and core the quinces and save the 

parings and cores for jelly. Cook the quinces in water until 

very tender. Drain carefully and use the water to make a 



92 



syrup with the sugar. Add the fruit to the syrup and cook 
slowly for 3 hours, or until the quinces are dark red. Put into 
sterilized jars and seal at once. Mark and store. 

Spiced Gooseberries 

2 pounds gooseberries 1 tablespoon whole cloves 

1 cup vinegar 1 tablespoon stick cinnamon 

1^ pounds sugar 
Cook all together steadily 40 minutes, or until reduced to 
a marmalade. Pour into sterilized bottles and seal. 

Strawberry Jam 

1 pound starwberries 1 pound sugar 

Wash and hull the berries. Cover with sugar and let stand 
over night. In the morning bring to the boiling point and cook 
20 minutes. Pour into sterilized glasses. When cool, cover 
with a thin layer of paraffin. Mark and store. 

Sun-Preserved Berries 

Wash and weigh berries which have been freshly picked. 
Cover the berries with an equal amount of sugar and let them 
stand over night so that the sugar will all be dissolved. Let 
stand in cool place so as not to ferment. The next morning 
bring to boiling point and boil 10 minutes. Pour into platters 
or shallow porcelain or enamel dishes not more than 1 inch in 
depth. Cover with a piece of glass. Moisture will gather on 
the under side of the glass. This should be wiped off occasion- 
ally. The preserves should be placed in the sun until the 
thickness desired is obtained. This is dependent upon the 
time of the day and the intensity of the sun. The preserves 
should be brought in at night-fall and set out the next morning 
if not thick enough. Eight hours should finish the preserves. 
If weather becomes rainy, finish in a slightly-warmed oven. 
Do not remove the glass and expose to the air. Place in steril- 
ized glasses and cover with paraffin. Mark and store. 



93 



Raspberries, dewberries, blackberries, cherries, straw- 
berries, or a combination of currants and red raspberries, or a 
combination of rhubarb and red raspberries may be prepared in 
this way. 

In order to protect the preserves from ants, the legs of the 
stand on which they are placed should be put into four sauce- 
dishes of water. 

Watermelon-Rind Preserves 

1 pound melon rind 1 pound sugar 

1 ounce lime 1 lemon 

2 quarts water 

Cut rind in ^ inch squares. Remove peel and all pink 
part, and weigh. Soak over night in lime water. The follow- 
ing morning allow rind to stand for 2 hours in clear water. 
Drain well, then drop into boiling water and cook rapidly for 
10 minutes. Drain again and add gradually to syrup made of 
sugar and 1 quart of water. Add to this the juice of ^ lemon 
and three extra slices of lemon, and cook until the rind is clear 
and transparent. Allow to stand covered with syrup until 
cool. Then arrange attractively in jars, garnishing with the 
slices of lemon. Seal, mark, and store. 

Yellow-Tomato Preserves 

1 pound ripe yellow tomatoes 1 stick ginger root 
(weighed after skinning) 1 lemon, juice and rind 

1 pound granulated sugar 
Scald, skin and weigh the tomatoes. Add sugar and ginger 

root and boil 2 hours, then add the lemon juice and rind; 

boil ^ hour; pour into sterilized jars, seal at once, mark and 

store. 

FRUIT JUICES 

When some fruits which contain a large amount of juice are 
very abundant the juices may be extracted and bottled for use 



94 



in preparing refreshing beverages. These fruit juices may also 
be used for flavoring desserts, such as puddings, ice creams, and 
sherbets, and in making pudding sauces. 

Grape Juice 

Pick ripe Concord grapes from the stem. Wash the grapes, 
crush, and heat them, stirring them all the time. When broken, 
pour into a jelly bag and allow the juice to drip from the grapes. 
Measure it and add one-fourth the amount of sugar. Cook the 
juice and sugar until they reach the boiling point. Put into 
sterilized bottles, cork, and seal immediately with bottle wax or 
paraffin. Mark and store. Dilute for serving. 

Raspberry Shrub 

Select sound fruit. Pick it over carefully. Wash, measure, 
and pack in a stone jar. Use 1 quart mild vinegar to every 4 
quarts berries. Tie cheese-cloth over jar. Stir the mixture each 
day for three or four days. Do not let it stand more than 3 days 
if the weather is very warm. Strain without squeezing, measure 
juice and put into a kettle, allowing 2 cups of sugar to every 
pint of liquid. Boil slowly 5 minutes. Put into sterilized 
bottles. Cork and dip into paraffin or bottle wax. Dilute with 
cold water for serving. 

Strawberries, blackberries, and dewberries may be used in 
the same way. 

BOTTLE WAX 

To seal corked bottles 
Mix together equal parts of warm shoemaker's wax and 
resin. When liquid, dip the corked bottles into it. 



CANDIES 

SUGAR 

(a) Sugar is used in cooking — 

(1) To increase the carbohydrate in the diet. 

(2) To add flavor to other foods. ■ 

(3) To aid in the preservation of other foods. 

(4) To serve as the basis for candies and cake frost- 

ings. 

(b) Sugar substitutes. 

(1) Maple syrup, molasses, sorghum, honey, com- 

mercial glucose and corn syrup may all be used 
as substitutes for sugar. However, the syrups 
are only from 75 per cent to 85 per cent as 
sweet as sugar and must be used in larger 
quantities than sugar if the same degree of 
sweetness is to be secured. 

(2) Syrups can be substituted for sugar in frostings 

and in all candies that are not to be crystallized, 
such as molasses candy and pulled white 
candy. In candies that are to be crystallized, 
syrups can be substituted for sugar to only a 
limited extent with the exception of maple 
syrup which readily crystallizes when boiled 
down. One part of syrup to three parts of 
sugar can safely be substituted in all candies. 
When some syrups are used even a higher rate 
of substitution is possible. 

(c) Methods of cooking sugar. 

(1) By dry heat, as in the preparation of caramel. 

(2) By boiling with water — as in making syrups. 

(3) By boiling with acids — whereby it is converted 

95 



96 



into a substance which is only half as sweet as 
cane sugar and which does not crystallize. For 
this reason cream of tartar is used in making 
fondant, and vinegar is used in molasses candy, 
(d) Time for cooking syrups. 

The time for cooking syrups is regulated by the 
thickness of the syrups to be used. Thickness 
of syrups increases with boiling and evapora- 
tion. The temperature of syrup also rises, 
hence the time for cooking of syrup may be 
regulated by the thermometer. When cooking 
at home, syrup tests are generally made by 
dropping a few drops of the syrup into cold 
water to determine the thickness of the syrup 
when cold. The relation between the two tests' 
is given below. 

Syrup Tests 

Soft Ball 238 degrees, used for boiled frosting and 

fondant. 
Hard Ball 260 degrees, used for nougat. 

Crack 310 degrees, used for molasses candy 

Caramel 350 degrees, used for flavoring and for 

peanut brittle. 
Dark Caramel 400 degrees, used for coloring gravies, 

soups, etc. 

Butter Scotch 

1 cup molasses ^ cup butter 

1 cup brown sugar 1 tablespoon vinegar 

Yk cup water 
Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and boil them until the 
syrup is brittle when tried in cold water. Then pour into a 
buttered pan, cool, and mark in squares or break in pieces for 
serving. Serves 16 to 20. 



97 



Candied Orange Peel 

1 orange peel ^ cup sugar or syrup 

y^ cup water in which orange was cooked 

Wipe orange and remove peel in quarters. Cut in narrow 
strips and remove surplus white. Cook in boiling water until 
tender, changing water several times. Drain well. 

Make syrup with ^ cup of the last water used, and the 
sugar. If syrup is used, no water need be added. When the 
sugar is all dissolved add orange rind, and cook slowly until 
most of the water has evaporated. Drain the rind, and roll 
each piece in granulated sugar. Serves 12 to 16. 

Caramels 

2 cups sugar 1 pint cream 

% cup glucose ^ cup pecans 

^ cup butter 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Combine sugar, glucose, butter, and 1 cup cream and 
heat until it boils thorcjlughly. Add remainder of cream 
gradually stirring it in not to stop boiling. Stir every three 
or four minutes, cooking till it reaches the temperature of 
252 degrees, or a firm hard ball is formed in cold water. 
Add nuts and vanilla and turn into buttered pans to make a 
sheet ^ inch thick. When cold cut in cubes, let dry -24 hours. 

Caramel Fudge 

2 cups sugar 1 tablespoon butter 

1 cup milk ^ cup nuts, broken up 

cup caramelized sugar 

Boil sugar and milk together, add caramelized sugar and 
butter, and boil to the soft ball stage. Take from fire and heat 
until the candy becomes creamy. Add nuts and turn into 
buttered pans; when cool cut into squares. Serves 16 to 20. 

Caramel Syrup 

1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup boiling water 



98 



Melt sugar in a smooth pan, stir over the fire until it be- 
comes a deep, dark brown (400 degrees F.). Add the boiling 
water and cook slowly until the hardened sugar is dissolved. 
Cool, bottle, and keep tightly corked. 

Uses for Caramel 

Caramel (cooked sugar) may be used for candies, nut brit- 
tle, glace, etc. 

Caramel may be made into syrup and used as a sauce, or 
it may be substituted for sugar (1^ cup caramel for 1 cup 
sugar) to sweeten and flavor sweet dishes (custards, puddings, 
frostings, ice cream, etc.) 

Caramel which is very dark may be made into a syrup and 
used to color gravies, soups, and invalid dishes, i. e. cereals, 
corn starch puddings, etc., (1 tablespoon caramel to 1 pint). 

Divinity 

See Nougat. 

Double Fudge 

Prepare one recipe chocolate fudge, pour into a shallow 
pan to form a layer one-half inch thick. Over this pour a 
layer of freshly prepared pinoche of equal thickness. When 
firm cut in squares. 

Fondant 

2 cups sugar }i teaspoon cream of tartar 

y^ cup boiling water 
Put ingredients into smooth sauce pan, stir and heat 
gradually to the boiling point, then boil without stirring until, 
when tried in cold water, a soft ball may be formed (at which 
time syrup will be 238 degrees F). Pour upon oiled marble 
slab or buttered plate and let stand a few minutes to cool, but 
not long enough to grow hard about the edges, (to from 90 de- 
grees to 100 degrees) then work with wooden spoon until white 
and creamy. When fondant begins to form lumps, knead 



99 



quickly with the hands until perfectly creamy. Pack in bowl, 
cover with oiled paper, and let stand 24 hours, after which 
flavor, color, and shape as desired. During cooking sugar will 
adhere to side of saucepan, this should be washed off with 
fingers or cloth dipped in cold water. Serves 30. 

Uses for Fondant 

Fondant is used as a basis for many candies, to stuff dried 
fruits and to frost small cakes. 

For candy the finished fondant is flavored, colored, and 
shaped as desired. Nuts are often put on top of each piece or 
two halves of the nuts may be used and one-half put on each 
side of the candy. The fondant may be worked up with chopped 
nuts or candied fruits and cut in cubes. Chocolate drops may 
be made by dipping the shaped fondant into melted chocolate. 

Peppermint drops may be made by remelting the fondant 
after it has been flavored with peppermint and dropping it on 
to paraffin paper in the shapes desired. 

Fondant may be used with stuffed dates, figs, or prunes. 
For stuffed dates, wash the dates, cut open lengthwise, remove 
stone and insert a small piece of fondant rolled to resemble the 
date stone. Chopped nuts or peanut butter may be added to the 
fondant. After stuffing, roll dates in granulated or powdered 
sugar. 

To frost small cakes, remelt the fondant in a double boiler 
after it has been flavored and kneaded. When it is thoroughly 
melted, dip in the small cakes from the end of a fork so that 
the frosting will entirely cover the top and partially cover the 
sides. It will be necessary to work quickly and to stir the fon- 
dant occasionally for it will have a tendency to become too thick. 
The top of each cake may be decorated with a piece of blanched 
almond or candied fruit. 



100 



Fudge 

2 cups sugar 2 squares chocolate 

1 cup milk y2 teaspoon vanilla 

2 tablespoons butter 

Cook all the ingredients together slowly, stirring until 
sugar is all dissolved. Then boil without stirring to the soft 
ball stage, 238 degrees. Take from the fire, cool, and beat it 
until it begins to grow thick. Add vanilla. Turn into a well- 
buttered pan, and when cool cut into squares. Either granulated 
or brown sugar may be used. Serves 16 to 20. 

Maple Fudge 

Use recipe for caramel fudge substituting maple siigar for 
granulated sugar and omitting caramelized sugar. 

Molasses Candy 

2 cups molasses 1 tablespoon vinegar 

Yz cup sugar 54 teaspoon soda 

2 tablespoons butter 

Put molasses, sugar, and butter into a thick sauce pan or 
kettle, and stir until sugar is dissolved. Boil until mixture 
becomes brittle when tried in cold water. Stir constantly at the 
last to prevent burning. 

Add vinegar and soda just before removing from fire. 
Pour into a well-buttered pan and let stand until cool 
enough to handle. Then pull until light and porous, and cut 
in small pieces with scissors, arranging on buttered plates. 
Serves 16 to 20. 

Nougat 

2 cups sugar 5^ cup cold water 

Yz cup corn syrup 2 egg whites 

Y^ cup chopped nuts or candied fruits 
Cook sugar, syrup, and water together until it is crisp in 
cold water, 260 degrees. Then pour a drop at a time over 



101 



beaten whites of eggs, beating briskly until very thick. Add 
chopped nuts or candied fruits. 

Pour into a well-buttered pan and cut into oblong squares. 
Serves 20 to 24. 

For divinity candy omit the nuts and fruits and drop the 
beaten syrup from the spoon onto a buttered pan in individual 
pieces. 

Peanut Brittle 

1 cup sugar 1 cup peanuts (1 qt. with shells on) 

Heat sugar until it melts and liquid becomes clear, remove 
immediately, add peanuts, chopped if desired, mixing them in 
thoroughly; quickly spread upon a smooth tin or iron sheet, 
press into shape with knife, and cut into bars or squares. 
Serves 10. 

Peanut Brittle (With Molasses) 

1 cup molasses 1 cup roasted peanuts 

1 cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons butter 

1 tablespoon vinegar 1 teaspoon soda 

Boil the sugar, molasses, and vinegar together until a little 
dropped in cold water is brittle. Add the butter and the nuts, 
remove from the heat, beat in the soda, and pour into greased 
pans. Spread very thin. Break into even pieces when cold. 
Serves 16 to 20. 

Peppermint Drops 

1 cup sugar A pinch of cream of tartar 

54 cup boiling water 3 drops oil of peppermint 

Boil sugar, cream of tartar, and water together slowly 
until syrup threads from fork. Pour it into a bowl and add 
flavoring. Stir until it begins to thicken and look cloudy. 
Drop by the spoonful upon paraffin paper. Serves 12. 



102 
Pinoche 

2 cups brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Yi cup cream, or ^ cup milk 1 cup walnut meats 
and 1 teaspoon butter 
Cook sugar and cream together until sugar is dissolved. 
Boil to the soft ball stage, 238 degrees. Take from fire, cool to 
100 degrees, then beat until it begins to thicken, add vanilla 
and chopped nut meats and turn into a well-buttered pan. When 
cool cut in squares. 

Pop-Corn Balls 

6 to 12 ears pop-corn ]/2 cup sugar, brown or white 

Salt y2 tablespoon vinegar 

1 cup molasses Y2 tablespoon butter 

Pop enough corn to make 3 quarts. Salt the corn. Boil 

the molasses, sugar, vinegar and butter together until almost 

brittle when tried in cold water. 

Put two thirds of the corn in a large bowl and pour the 

syrup quickly over it. Shape into large balls, using the dry 

corn to cover the outside so that the balls will not be sticky. 

Makes one dozen balls. 

Puffed Rice Balls 

1 package puffed rice. 

Follow the recipe for pop-corn balls. 

Salted Almonds 

1 pt. water 2 tablespoons olive oil or 

y2 cup salt butter 

1 cup almonds 

Blanch almonds by covering with boiling water and re- 
moving skins. Heat salt and water and when boiling add nuts. 
Cook S minutes. Drain and place them in a baking pan with 
oil, or put butter over them in small pieces, then bake until 
a delicate brown, stirring frequently. All the fat should be 



103 



absorbed. Pour on absorbent paper and leave till cool. Serves 
10 to 12. 

Salted Peanuts 

If unroasted peanuts are used, follow the recipe for 
salted almonds. 

If the peanuts have already been roasted, shell them and 
rub off the dry skin. Place them in a baking pan with 2 table- 
spoons olive oil or butter for each 1 cup of peanuts, and cook in 
a moderate oven until the fat is absorbed and the peanuts are 
evenly browned. It will be necessary to stir them frequently. 
At the last sprinkle them well with salt and put them on ab- 
sorbent paper to cool. 

White Pulled Candy 

2 cups sugar ^ cup water 

1 tablespoon vinegar 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Mix the sugar, vinegar, and water and boil until the syrup 
is brittle when tried in cold water. Pour onto a buttered platter 
and when cool enough to handle pull until white and glossy 
making it as light in texture as possible. Flavor while it is 
still soft. Cut in pieces on greased plates to chill. Servies 
10 to 12. 



CEREALS 

Cereals should be kept in a dry place protected from the 
moisture of the air. As a rule they do not spoil readily unless 
warm and damp. 

Before using, cereals should be carefully examined to make 
sure that they are in good condition. 

The purpose of cooking cereals is: — (1) to soften the 
cellulose; (2) to cook the starch; (3) to add water; (4) to 
develop flavor. 

The time for cooking cereals is dependent on the nature of 
the cellulose and the form in which the grain has been prepared. 
The shortest time is required for rice, then wheat, oats, corn, in 
order. 

The term "mush" is applied to the cereal when cooked in 
the form of a rather thin pudding. "Porridge" is thinner than 
mush. "Gruds" are made thinner than mush by the addition 
of milk or water and are always strained. 

General Directions for Cooking Cereals 

Look grain over carefully. 

Measure grain and liquid accurately. Amount of liquid 
may be varied according to consistency of mush desired. 

Salt the water, using 1 teaspoon salt to 1 cup cereal. 

Have the water boiling as cereal is added. 

Add cereal so slowly that bubbling of water may not be 
stopped. 

Boil rapidly 10 to 15 minutes, stirring constantly. 

Then cover and cook in a double boiler or a fireless cooker 
without stirring for remainder of time. Increase time for cook- 
ing two or three hours if the cereal is put in the fireless cooker. 

When it is necessary to replenish water in lower part of 
double boiler, boiling water should be used. 

104 



105 



Cook continuously. 

General directions will have to be varied somewhat in 
cooking rice and some of the special cereal preparations. 

Cold cooked cereals can always be reheated in a double 
boiler with the addition of water, if necessary, and served as 
freshly cooked cereals. 

Methods of cooking cereals are: — 

(1) Hot, with milk, cream, or butter — with or without 

sugar. 

(2) Cooled in molds and served with cream as a simple 

dessert. 

(3) Cooled in molds, sliced, dipped in flour browned in 

butter or other fat, served hot. 

(4) Cooled, shaped into balls, and fried in deep fat. 

Served with meat as a vegetable or with sweet sauce 
as dessert. 

(5) Served with uncooked fruit, such as bananas, berries, 

pineapple, dates, etc.; or cooked fruit, as apples, 
pears, etc. 

Table of Proportions and Time for Cooking Cereals. 

CEREAL AMOUNT WATER TIME 

Corn meal 1 cup 4 cups 3 hrs. in double boiler 

Cracked wheat 1 cup 4 cups 3-6 hrs in double boiler 

Cream of wheat 1 cup 4-6 cups 40 min. in double boiler 

Farina 1 cup 4-6 cups 40 min. in double boiler 

Hominy grits 1 cup 4-5 cups 2-3 hrs in double boiler 

Oat meal, coarse 1 cup 4 cups 3-4 hrs in double boiler 

Oats, rolled 1 cup 3 or 4 cups 1^ hrs in double boiler 

Rice, boiled 1 cup 3 qts. 20-30 min. in kettle 

Rice, steamed 1 cup 2 cups ^-1 hr. in steamer 

Wheatena or Wheatlet 1 cup 4 cups 3 hrs. in double boiler 



106 



Cornmeal Mush 

4 cups boiling water 1 cup cornmeal 

1 teaspoon salt 
Look the cornmeal over carefully and add slowly to boiling 
salted water. 

Boil 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then cook 3 hours 
longer in double boiler. Serves 6 to 8. 

Cornmeal Mush for Frying 

1 cup corn meal 1 cup cold water 

1 tablespoon flour 1 ^ pint boiling water 

1 teaspoon salt 
Look the corn meal over carefully. Mix the dry ingredients, 
add the cold water and stir this mixture gradually into the 
boiling water. Cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then place 
over boiling water in double boiler and cook for several hours 
(3 to 4 hrs.) The best flavor is developed by long cooking. Pour 
into a wet bread pan and when cool cut into ^ inch pieces. 
Dip slices in flour and brown in a little hot fat. Fat tried out 
from slices of pork may be used. Slices of mush may be dipped 
into milk before dipping into flour. 

Other cold cooked cereals may be re-cooked in the same 
way. Serves 6 to 8. 

Hominy Grits 

1 cup hominy grits 4 cups water or more 

1 teaspoon salt 
Look the hominy over carefully and add slowly to boiling 
salted water. Boil ten minutes stirring constantly then put over 
hot water and cook 2 to 3 hours or put in fireless cooker for 
5 or 6 hours. Serve as a breakfast dish or as a vegetable at 
dinner or lunch. Serves 8 to 10. 



Baked Hominy Grits 

1 cup hominy grits 1 pint milk 

1^ teaspoon salt 2 eggs 



107 



Look the hominy over carefully, and add slowly to 1 quart 
boiling salted water. Boil for ten minutes, stirring constantly, 
then put over hot water and cook for 2 hours. Add 1 pint of 
scalded milk to the cooked hominy and cook in double boiler 
until milk has been absorbed. Beat the 2 eggs, add salt and then 
add the cooked hominy, slowly beating it well together. Turn 
into a buttered baking dish and bake thirty minutes in a 
moderately hot oven. Serve hot. Serves 8 to 10. 

Coarse Oatmeal or Cracked Wheat 

4 cups boiling w^ater 1 cup coarse oatmeal or 

1 teaspoon salt cracked wheat 

Look the cereal over carefully and add slowly to boiling 
salted water. Boil ten minutes, stirring constantly, and then. 
cook 3 to 6 hours over boiling water. Serves 6. 

Rolled Oats 

3 cups boiling water 1 cup rolled oats 

1 teaspoon salt 

Look the rolled oats over carefully and add slowly to 
boiling, salted water. Boil 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then 
cook in double boiler at least 1^ hours longer; the best flavor- 
is developed by longer cooking. Serves 6. 

Boiled Rice 

3 qts. boiling water 1 cup rice 

2 teaspoons salt 

Pick rice over carefully and wash thoroughly. Add it so 
gradually to the boiling salted water that the water will not 
stop boiling. Partly cover and cook 20 minutes, or until the 
grains are soft; turn into a colander and pour cold water 
through it; drain, dry, and reheat in hot oven with door open. 
Serve hot as a vegetable or as a simple dessert with cream and 
sugar. Serves 6 to 8. 



108 



Steamed Rice 

2 cups boiling water 1 cup rice 

1 teaspoon salt 
Pick rice over carefully and wash thoroughly. Put rice, 
water, and salt into a bowl and place it in a steamer over 
rapidly boiling water. Cook until rice is soft from % to 1 hour. 
Serve hot as a vegetable or as a simple dessert with fruit or 
chocolate sauce. Serves 6 to 8. 

Rice Pudding 

2 cups cooked rice ^ teaspoon salt 

2 cups milk ^ cup raisins 

2 tablespoons sugar 
Put the ingredients into a buttered baking dish and bake 
in a slow oven from one to two hours stirring occasionally. 
When milk is nearly all absorbed brown over the top and serve 
either hot or cold with cream and sugar. Serves 6 to 8. 

Savory Rice 

2 cups rice ^ teaspoon pepper 

4 tablespoons fat ^ teaspoon salt 

2 slices onion 5^ cup grated cheese 

2 cups strained tomato 
Boil rice in salted water. Cook onion in fat until browned. 
Add cooked rice and brown slightly. Add tomato, seasonings, 
and cheese. Bake in a buttered dish until slightly brown on top. 
Serves 8 to 10. 

Rice Croquettes 

1 pint cold cooked rice White pepper 

(% cup uncooked) Cayenne 

2 or 3 tablespoons milk 2 tablespoons chopped 
2 tablespoons butter parsley 

y2 teaspoon salt 1 egg 

Warm the rice in a double boiler, with enough of the milk 
to soften it. Add the butter, seasonings, and beaten egg. Cook 
until the egg thickens. Spread the mixture on a shallow plate 



109 



to cool, then shape into balls. Roll in fine bread crumbs, which 
have been seasoned with salt and pepper; dip in beaten egg, 
and' roll in crumbs again ; cook in deep fat until brown. Drain 
on unglazed paper. Serve hot. Other cold cooked cereals may 
be made into croquettes in the same way. Serves 8 to 10. 

Rice Croquettes with Syrup 

Omit pepper, cayenne, and parsley from the recipe for 
savory croquettes. Serve hot, with hot syrup. 

Scalloped Rice 

Use ^ cup milk in the recipe for Rice Croquettes, turn into 
a buttered baking dish, cover with 2 cups buttered bread crumbs 
(2 cups crumbs to 2 tablespoons butter). Bake ^ hour in a 
moderate oven. Serves 8. 

Rice Cream 

See Custards. 

Wheatlet, Wheatena, Farina, or Cream of Wheat 

6 cups boiling water 1 cup meal 

1 teaspoon salt 
Look the meal over carefully, then add it slowly to boiling 
salted water and boil 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then cook 
in double boiler ^ hour. 

Yz cup dates may be washed, stoned, shredded and added 
10 minutes before the cereal is served. Serves 6 to 8. 

Cereal Pudding 

1 cup fine cereal (wheatena, farina, or cream of wheat) 
1 teaspoon salt 
Yz cup shredded dates or whole raisins or chopped figs 
Cook the cereal well in 4 to 6 cups of salted water. Add 
the fruit just before cooking is completed. Turn into a dish to 
chill and serve cold with cream and sugar. 



EGGS 

To be of value in cooking, eggs should be fresh as the 
flavor becomes affected with age. Old eggs are not so satis- 
factory for use in cooking as fresh because in the old egg it is 
more difficult to separate the white and the yolk, and the white 
is less elastic and does not beat up so well. 

Tests for a fresh egg: 

(1) There is a bloom on the shell, it does not show a 

shiny surface. 

(2) The contents of the shell look clear when held to the 

light, the yolk shows in the center. 

(3) The egg does not rattle when shaken. 

(4) The fresh egg sinks in water and does not float on the 

surface. 

The price of eggs varies widely with the season. They are 
usually sold by the dozen, but they are also sold by the pound, 
as they vary so greatly in size and weight. One dozen eggs 
weighs from 17.5 oz. to 28 oz. 

Care of Eggs 

Eggs should be kept in a cool, dry place. If to be 
stored they may be packed, small end down, in bran, salt, 
sand, or sawdust; immersed in water glass, lime water, or coated 
with fat. Eggs can be kept fresh several weeks if each egg is 
wrapped separately in paper. Evaporation and canning of eggs 
are commercial methods of preservation. 

Eggs should be handled carefully so that the membranes 
about yolk will not be broken. 

They should be washed just before breaking for use. 

Shells of eggs should be saved to clear coffee. 

The left-over yolk of an egg, if unbroken, may be kept 
from hardening by being covered with cold water or with paraf- 
fin paper. The whites will keep a day or two if cold. 

110 



Ill 



Cooking of Eggs 

Eggs are cooked: — 

(1) To make them more palatable as flavor is developed. 

(2) To make them more attractive as albumen coagulates 

and becomes white. 

(3) To improve the texture and cause it to become 

jelly-like. 

(4) To break up the tissue of the egg ( scrambled eggs 

and custards). 

(5) To make the egg light by the introduction of air 

(omelets). 

(6) To combine the egg with other food materials 

a. In order to thicken or give them consistency 
(soups and sauces). 

b. In order to make mixtures light (cakes, puddings, 

popovers). 

c. To add flavor to other foods (puddings and 

cakes). 

d. To add color to other foods (puddings, cakes, 

and sauces). 

e. To increase the nutritive value of other foods 

(soups, puddings, and batters). 

Methods of Cooking Eggs 

(1) In hot water. 

a. In shell 

Soft cooked 
Hard cooked 

b. Without shell 

Poached 

(2) In double boiler, surrounded by water, combined with 

milk. Custards, scrambled or coddled. 



112 



(3) In dry heat of oven 

a. Baked or shirred (unbeaten) 

b. Souffle (beaten) 

(4) In hot fat in frying pan. 

a. Fried (unbeaten) 

b. Omelets (beaten) 

The protein present in eggs coagulates when heated, the 
white at 134 degrees, the yolk at 122 degrees. 

The best cooking temperature is 160 to 180 degrees. 
Economy in Using^ Eggs in Cooking 

(1) If eggs are used as a thickening in sauce, soup, salad 
dressing, or pudding, they can be replaced by flour or corn 
starch. One whole egg can be replaced by 2 tablespoons flour; 
one egg yolk by 1 tablespoon flour. 

(2) If eggs are used to make mixtures light, they can be 
replaced in part by baking powder. One teaspoon baking powder 
can be substituted for two eggs in a butter cake. 

If one cup of flour is made light wholly by the use of 
eggs, six are necessary. If one cup of flour is made light 
wholly by the use of baking powder two teaspoons are sufficient. 

(3) In frostings and confectionery, eggs can be replaced 
by water, milk, and cream. 

Serving 

Because eggs are altogether lacking in the carbohydrates 
they should always be combined or served with starchy food. 
Parsley and other pungent greens make attractive garnishes. Dry 
toast or wafers are appropriate accompaniments as they induce 
thorough mastication. 

Soft Cooked Eggs 

Put the eggs in boiling water sufficient to cover, cover the 
kettle, remove from the fire, but keep hot, and let stand from 5 
to 8 minutes according to the consistency desired. 



113 



Hard Cooked Eggs 

Put the eggs in cold water, cover, heat, and when the water 
boils, reduce heat and let them stand 20 minutes with water 
just below the boiling point, then put into cold water for a few 
minutes to loosen the shells. 

Poached Eggs 

Break each egg into a saucer carefully, slip the eggs into 
boiling water, decrease the heat, and cook 5 minutes or until 
the white is firm, and a film has formed over the yolk. Take up 
with a skimmer, drain, trim off rough edges and serve on slices 
of toast. Season. 

Poached eggs are attractive covered with white sauce to 
which chopped parsley has been added. 

Baked or Shirred Eggs 

Line a buttered baking dish with buttered bread crumbs,, 
break eggs into dish without separating, add 1 tablespoon milk 
or cream for each egg. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle 
with grated cheese, if desired; or bread crumbs may be omitted 
and dish lined with cold mashed potatoes. Bake in a moderate 
oven till eggs are set. 

Creamed Eggs 

3 hard cooked eggs 6 slices toast 
1 cup medium white sauce 

Prepare white sauce and add hard cooked eggs cut in 
halves, slices, or chopped, and when hot serve on toast. 

Or separate white and yolks of hard cooked eggs, chop 
w^hite fine, add to white sauce, and when hot serve on toast and 
garnish with yolks run through a sieve or ricer. Season with 
salt and pepper. ' Serves 4 to 6. 

Scrambled or Coddled Eggs 

4 eggs 2 tablespoons milk 
1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon butter 
Pepper 



114 



Beat the eggs slightly, adding the salt, pepper, and milk. 
Melt the butter in a sauce pan. Add the eggs and cook slowly 
until thickened. Stir frequently and remove from the heat as 
soon as finished. Scrambled or Coddled Eggs are best if cooked 
over hot water for then there is less danger of over cooking them. 
Serves 6. 

OMELETS 

There are two classes of omelets, the French or Creamy 
omelets in which the eggs are beaten all together and only 
slightly, and light omelet in which the eggs are separated and 
whites beaten stiff and cut and folded into the yolk mixture. 
The light omelets include the Foamy Omelet in which the egg 
is combined with water, milk or other liquid, and the Omelet 
Souffle, in which the liquid used is thickened with flour, cooked 
as in a white sauce, or in the form of softened bread crumbs. 

The omelet recipes given are for an individual portion. To 
make a large omelet multiply the quantity of each ingredient by 
the number of eggs used. The best results will be obtained by 
making an omelet of not more than four eggs, as larger omelets 
are difficult to cook thoroughly and to handle well. A two-egg 
omelet will serve three people. A four-egg omelet will serve 
six people. 

The omelet pan must be perfectly smooth. Care must be 
taken to cook the omelets slowly, at a low temperature so that 
the egg does not become tough and dry, and the bottom of the 
omelet must be carefully watched for the entire omelet will be 
spoiled if one portion burns. 

Serve the omelet immediately when cooked, as steam es- 
capes and an omelet falls when cold. Use a fork or spoon in 
serving; if an omelet is so tough that it requires a knife to cut 
it the time of cooking has been too long or the temperature too 
high. An omelet will be more tender if the number of yolks 
exceeds the number of whites. 



115 



Omelets are used for breakfast, luncheon, supper, or as 
simple desserts. 

Variations of the Omelet 

1. Serve with white sauce, tomato sauce, or oyster sauce. 

2. Serve with a garnish of chopped parsley, olives, green 
peppers, cooked peas, green beans, or asparagus tips. 

3. Use bacon fat in an omelet pan and serve omelet with 
a garnish of crisp bacon. 

4. Before folding omelet, spread with chopped ham, 
tongue, mushrooms, grated cheese, broiled oysters, or cooked 
vegetables. 

5. In place of milk or cold water use 1 tablespoon hot 
water to each egg, or 4 tablespoons white sauce, or 2 tablespoons 
bread crumbs softened in milk, or 4 tablespoons tomato sauce. 

6. Add grated cheese, or chopped tongue, parsley, onions, 
or chopped asparagus to yolk mixture. 

7. Turn the omelet into a buttered baking dish and bake 
in the oven, serve in dish. 

8. Substitute sugar (1 tablespoon to each egg) for salt and 
pepper, fruit juice or caramel syrup for milk, and serve with 
jelly or a sweet sauce, grated pineapple, or sliced oranges, or 
cover with powdered sugar and score with a hot poker to cara- 
melize sugar. 

9. Souffles are a variation of the omelet. 

Creamy Omelet 

1 egg 1 tablespoon milk 

j4 teaspoon salt ^ teaspoon butter 

Pepper 

Beat the egg slightly, add the milk and seasonings; put 
butter in the hot omelet pan, when melted turn in the mixture; 
as it cooks draw the edges toward the center until the whole is 
of a creamy consistency; brown quickly underneath; fold and 
turn onto a hot platter. Serve at once. Serves 1. 



116 



To serve several people, multiply each ingredient by the 
number of eggs used. Also called French Omelet. 

Foamy Omelet 

1 egg 1 tablespoon milk or water 

% teaspoon salt j4 teaspoon butter 

Cayenne or white pepper 

Beat the yolk of the egg until creamy, add the seasonings 
and milk; beat the white until stiff, but not dry, cut and fold 
into the yolk carefully with the flat egg beater; heat an omelet 
pan, rub bottom and sides with the butter, turn in the omelet, 
spread it evenly on the pan. Cook gently over heat until the 
omelet is set and evenly browned underneath; put it into a hot 
oven for a few minutes to dry slightly on top; fold and serve 
immediately. Serves 1. 

To serve several people multiply each ingredient by the 
number of eggs used. 

Omelet Souffle 

y^ tablespoon butter ^ cup milk 

^2 tablespoon flour 1 egg 

}i teaspoon salt ^ teaspoon butter 

Pepper 
Make a white sauce ; separate the yolk and white of the egg, 
and beat them until light; when white sauce is cool, add the 
yolk, and cut in the white with the flat egg beater. Cook in 
the same way as Foamy Omelet or follow directions for baked 
omelet. . Serves 1. 

Baked Omelet 

Prepare the recipe for Omelet Souffle. Turn into a but- 
tered baking dish, place the dish in a pan containing hot water 
and bake slowly 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. If a 
heavy earthen baking dish is used it need not be placed in hot 
water. 



117 



Spanish Omelet 

Follow the recipe for Creamy omelet using four eggs and 
serve with a well seasoned tomato sauce in the center and 
around the omelet. 

Use half the recipe for tomato puree given in the book, 
and add one finely chopped green pepper. Do not strain. 
Just before serving, two tablespoons chopped pickles may be 
added to the sauce. Serves 6. 

SOUFFLES 

Souffles are preparations which are "puffed up" or made 
light by the presence of whites of eggs. They are much used as 
entrees and may be either savory or sweet in character. Souffles 
are a variation of the foamy omelet. 

The foundation for a souffle is usually a white sauce to 
which is added the food material which is to give it special 
flavor, the egg yolks and finally the well-beaten whites. 

Proportions. For each cup of thick white sauce (2 table- 
spoons butter, 4 tablespoons flour, 1 cup milk) or an equally 
thick paste of bread and milk, use from ^ cup to 1 cup of 
cooked meat, poultry, fish, sweetbreads, mushrooms, or cheese, 
finely chopped and well-seasoned, and from 2 to 4 eggs. Add 
the well-beaten egg yolks to the sauce and meat, and when cool 
cut and fold in the well-beaten whites of eggs. Turn into well- 
buttered moulds (one large or individual) set in a pan of water 
and cook in a slow oven until puffed and firm. 

Serve hot in the dish in which it is cooked, with or without 
a sauce. 

Paper cases, scallop shells, or ramekins may be used for 
the individual dishes. 

Vegetable and fruit souffles may be made without the sauce 
as they contain a large amount of juice. 

Souffles of potatoes, parsnips, peas, etc., may require 



118 



moistening with a little cream or milk before folding in a well- 
beaten egg. See chicken, fish, and onion souffle. 

Cheese Souffle 

2 tablespoons butter ^ cup milk 

3 tablespoons flour 3 eggs 

Yi teaspoon salt 1 cup or Yz pound grated 

Cayenne cheese 

Put the butter in a saucepan, when hot add the flour and 
seasonings, and stir until smooth; add the milk slowly and 
stir until it boils, remove from the fire, and add the well-beaten 
yolks and the cheese. Mix well and cool. When cold, cut and 
fold in whites of eggs well-beaten, then turn into a buttered 
dish, and bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a large dish, 15 min- 
utes in individual dishes. Serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8. 

Fish Souffle 

Follow the recipe for cheese souffle, substituting 1 cup 
cold cooked fish finely flaked for the grated cheese. 

Chicken Souffle 

Follow the recipe for cheese souffle, substituting 1 cup 
cooked chicken finely chopped for the grated cheese. 

Onion Souffle 

Follow the recipe for cheese souffle, substituting 1 cup 
boiled onions finely chopped for the grated cheese. 



MILK 

Milk should be kept in a cool, clean place, free from 
odors, in a perfectly clean, covered vessel of suitable material — 
earthen, porcelain, glass or tin. The sanitary condition of milk 
is of the utmost importance as it easily becomes a medium for 
the distribution of disease germs, readily absorbs odors, flavors, 
and impurities, and undergoes fermentation. 

To clean the vessels in which milk is kept, rinse out first 
with cold water, then wash with hot water and soap, adding 
a little borax or washing soda to the water. Scald well, rinse 
with clear water and let the bottles cool. To sterilize the vessels, 
fill with cold water and heat to the boiling point, boiling 20 
minutes. Let vessels stand in the sun 2 to 3 hours when pos- 
sible. 

Because of the danger from disease germs in impure milk 
or of the development of lactic acid bacteria in milk, it is 
often necessary to apply heat to kill all bacteria in order to 
make it safe for use as food or to keep it for even a short time. 

Pasteurization is the most desirable method of preserving 
milk, the disease germs are destroyed, the milk will keep sweet 
from one to four days and the digestibility of the milk is but 
little affected. 

Sterilization is the most effective method of preserving 
milk, as both bacteria and their spores are destroyed but the 
taste of the milk is altered by sterilization, the emulsion of fat 
is destroyed, the lact-albumen is coagulated and the casein is 
rendered less easy of digestion. 

Cream separates from the heavier liquid in the milk by 
the force of gravity when standing or by centrifugal force in 
the separator — this separation is more complete when the milk 
is a few days old. The older cream also whips more easily. 

Acids cause the casein in the milk to curdle. This action 

119 



120 



takes place when lactic acid is produced in sour milk or by the 
addition of vinegar, lemon juice, or tartaric acid to milk. 

Milk is coagulated by the action of rennin, a ferment of 
the gastric juice, especially abundant in the infant's stomach. 
This action takes place if the milk has not been heated over 
120 degrees. Rennet is rennin artificially prepared for com- 
mercial use from the fourth part of the stomach of a calf, in the 
form of tablets by the addition of milk sugar. 

Milk is sometimes altered in order more nearly to resemble 
human milk. For this purpose the protein must be decreased, 
the carbohydrate increased, the milk given an alkalin reaction 
and the fat retained in relatively the same proportion. This is 
called "Modified" milk. 

Cooking of Milk 

When milk is heated the albumen becomes coagulated at 
158 degrees and the casinogen is changed, A scum consisting 
of coagulated lact-albumen, some dried casein, lime salts, and 
fat, forms on the bottom and sides of the kettle and over the 
top of the milk. 

The taste of milk changes as it is heated and it is easily 
scorched, growing darker in color. Because of the danger of 
scorching milk and of the effect that too high a degree of heat 
has on the albumen, making it more difiicult of digestion, milk 
should be heated in a perfectly smooth vessel and whenever pos- 
sible it should be heated over hot water in a double boiler. 
When a skin forms on top with bubbles around the side, milk 
is said to be scalded and is hot enough for most purposes in 
cooking. 

All utensils which have held milk should be rinsed in cold 
water before being put in hot. Salt should not be added to 
milk when it is to be heated for some time, for it may cause 
milk to curdle. 



121 



Reasons for Heating Milk 

Milk is heated for the purpose of preservation ; to introduce 
heat into the body; and to combine it with other foods. Milk 
forms the basis of many cooked dishes, for example cocoa, 
cream soups, white sauce, custards, and other puddings. Either 
whole milk or skimmed milk may be used for cooking. In many 
recipes water may be substituted for the milk, but one must 
then take into consideration the reduction in food value of the 
dish. 

Sterilized Milk 

When it is necessary to preserve milk in order that it may 
be kept for some time, the temperature should be raised to the 
boiling point and kept there 10 to 20 minutes. The milk should 
then be strained and quickly cooled. Milk sterilized in this 
way and put into clean utensils, carefully covered, can be 
kept for many days. 

Pasteurized Milk 

Fill sterile bottles or jars full of milk, cork them with 
cotton that has been baked in the oven and place on rings in a 
deep pan. Fill the pan with cold water so that the water may be 
as high outside the jars as the milk is inside, place the pan 
over the fire and heat until small bubbles appear around the 
top of the milk (158 degrees F), and keep at this temperature 
20 to 30 minutes, then reduce temperature as quickly as possible. 

Rennet or Junket 

1 quart milk 1 tablespoon rennet or 1 tab- 

2 -tablespoons sugar let (dissolved in ^ cup 

lukewarm water) 

Heat the milk until lukewarm, add sugar, and stir until 
sugar is dissolved. Add rennet, stir slightly, pour into glass dish, 



122 



and leave in a warm place until firm. Sprinkle with nutmeg 
and chill. Serve with sugar and cream. Do not jar. Rennet 
should be handled carefully, so as not to break mass, as curd 
and whey separate. Kennet may be improved by addition of 
such fresh fruits as strawberries, raspberries, etc. Serves 8. 



CUSTARDS 

A custard is a combination of eggs and milk, usually 
sweetened and flavored and either steamed or baked as cup 
custard, or cooked in a double boiler as soft custard. The whole 
egg may be used or the yolks alone. The yolks make a smoother, 
richer custard. One whole egg or two yolks of eggs will be 
sufficient for one quart of milk. 

The egg must be thoroughly mixed, but not beaten light, 
the sugar and salt added and the milk scalded and stirred 
in slowly. The custard must be strained through a fine sieve 
and cooked at a moderate temperature. The cup custard should 
be strained before cooking, the soft custard may be strained after 
cooking. 

A soft custard is cooked over water and is stirred con- 
stantly until done. When done the froth disappears from the 
surface, the custard is thickened and coats the spoon and sides 
of the pan, and there is no sign of curdling. If the custard is 
cooked too long it becomes curdled. If a custard becomes 
curdled, put it in a pan of cold water and beat until smooth. 

A steamed or baked custard is done when it becomes set and 
when a silver knife will come out clean after cutting it. 

Steamed Custards 

1 quart milk (heated) Salt. 

4 eggs or 10 egg yolks 2 tablespoons caramel or 

j4 cup sugar }i teaspoon nutmeg 

Beat eggs sufficiently to mix them thoroughly; add sugar, 
salt, and hot milk slowly. 

. Strain into cups, flavor with caramel or sprinkle nutmeg 
on top, and steam until firm over gently boiling water, 20 to 
30 minutes. Serves 6 to 8. 

123 



124 



Baked Custards 

Prepare as steamed custards, set in pan of hot water, and 
bake in a slow oven until firm; 20 to 40 minutes. 

Chocolate Custards 

Use recipe for steamed custards adding 1 oz. Baker's 
Chocolate (melted) to the hot milk. Steam or bake as desired. 

Soft Custard 

1 pint milk (heated) Salt 

4 egg yolks Yz teaspoon vanilla extract 

4 tablespoons sugar 

Beat egg yolks sufficiently to mix them thoroughly, add 
sugar, salt, and hot milk slowly. Cook in double boiler over 
water that is boiling gently and stir constantly until the cus- 
tard thickens. Strain. When cool, add flavor. 

For soft chocolate custard add ^ oz. Baker's Chocolate 
(melted) to the hot milk. Serves 6. 

Floating Island 

Use recipe for soft custard and when cold garnish the cus- 
tard with a meringue made according to the following recipe: 

Meringue 

4 egg whites ^ cup powdered sugar 

Beat egg whites very light, add powdered sugar and con- 
tinue beating. Drop in large spoonfuls on cold custard. Serves 
8 to 10. 

The meringue may be cooked, if desired, by slipping a 
spoonful at a time on top of the scalded milk and covering the 
double boiler carefully. When the meringue is set, it should be 
carefully removed to a plate until custard is made. 



125 

Tapioca Cream 

Yz cup pearl tapioca Yz cup sugar 

1 cup cold water ]/% teaspoon salt 

2 cups milk 2 egg whites 

2 egg yolks ^ teaspoon vanilla 

Soak the tapioca several hours in cold water until it absorbs 
the water, add milk and cook until tapioca is soft and transpar- 
ent, add yolk of ^gg, sugar, and salt; cook 3 minutes over water, 
stirring constantly; remove from fire; add the beaten whites and 
flavoring, and when cold serve. Serves 8. 

Rice Cream 

Use the recipe for tapioca cream, substituting 1 cup boiled 
rice {Yz cup uncooked) for the soaked tapioca. Heat the rice 
in hot milk in a double boiler until soft. 



CHEESE 

Cheese should be kept in a cool, dry place in a ventilated 
tin box or covered with cheese cloth. Do not keep cheese in ice 
box or cupboard near other food. When cheese becomes hard and 
dry, grate and keep to use in cooked dishes. Soft cheese does not 
keep well, hence it must be purchased in small quantities, tightly 
wrapped and kept very cold. Soft cheeses usually come wrapped 
in paraffin paper and tin foil. 

Cheese is cooked to change the flavor, to melt the cheese, 
and to combine it with other foods. Cheese is more easy of 
digestion when combined with other foods and it increases the 
food value of the dish to which it is added. 

A high temperature and prolonged cooking toughen cheese. 
The best results in cooking cheese are always obtained if cheese 
is combined with other materials. A dry, crumbly cheese is 
most easily broken up and mixed with other food, and gives the 
best results in cooking. 

Cottage Cheese 

When milk has become sour enough to show a well-thick- 
ened curd, heat it slowly until the whey rises to the top, pour 
this off, put the curd in a bag and let it drip for several hours 
without squeezing. The separation of the curd may be more 
quickly effected by pouring boiling water into the sour milk. 
Put the curd into a bowl and break fine with a wooden spoon, 
season with salt, and mix into a paste with a little cream or 
butter. Mold into balls, if desired, and chill before serving. (It 
is best when fresh.) 

Welsh Rarebit 

1 cup or y^ lb. cheese Cayenne 

(grated) 1 egg 

% cup cream or milk 2 teaspoons butter 
^ or 1 teaspoon mustard Dry toast 

y2 teaspoon salt 

126 



127 



Heat cheese with milk or cream in a double boiler. Mix 
the mustard, salt, and cayenne, add to the egg, and beat well. 
When the cheese is melted, add the mixture of dry ingredients 
with the egg, then the butter, and cook till thick, stirring con- 
stantly. Pour over the toast and serve immediately. Serves 6. 

Cheese Straws 

1 tablespoon butter or yg teaspoon white pepper 

butter substitute Cayenne 

% cup flour 1 cup or ys lb grated 

1 cup fresh crumbs cheese 

^ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons milk or more 

Cream the butter, add remaining ingredients in order given 
and mix thoroughly, using enough milk to make a stiff dough. 
Roll dough ^4 i^ich thick, cut }i inch wide and 6 inches long, 
and bake until brown in a moderately hot oven. Serves 24. 

Macaroni and Cheese 

1 cup macarpni or 1 cup cheese (^ lb.) 

ly^ cup spaghetti 2 cups buttered crumbs 

1 y^ cup medium white sauce 
Break macaroni in one-inch pieces. Cook in a large 
amount of boiling salted water 30 to 45 minutes; when tender 
turn into a colander and pour cold water through it. Make 
white sauce, add cheese and macaroni to it, and pour into a 
buttered baking dish, cover with the crumbs and bake until 
brown. Spaghetti, vermicelli, and rice may be prepared in the 
same way. Serves 6 to 8. 

Noodles and Cheese 

Cook noodles in boiling salted water 20 minutes, or until 
tender; drain in a colander. Make a white sauce, add noodles 
and cheese. Turn into patty dishes and cover with buttered 
crumbs. Bake until crumbs are brown. Serves 6 to 8. 



128 



Cheese Fondue 

1 cup milk Yz teaspoon salt 

1 cup bread crumbs Speck pepper 

1 cup cheese grated or 3 eggs 

broken up 8 slices toast 

1 tablespoon butter 
Combine the milk, bread, cheese and seasonings. Beat 
the yolks of eggs and add to the milk mixture. Cook over hot 
water until thickened. Remove from the heat. Cut and fold 
in the well beaten whites of eggs and serve at once on toast. 
Serves 8 to 10. * 

For other recipes in which cheese is used, see cheese souffle, 
potatoes au gratin, and toasted crackers and cheese. 



SOUPS 

VEGETABLE SOUPS 
Vegetable Soup Without Meat Stock 

1 onion 1 quart tomatoes 

1 carrot 1 bay leaf 

1 turnip 2 cloves 

1 piece celery 1 tablespoon salt 

1 cabbage leaf ^ teaspon pepper 

1 pepper 2 tablespoons flour 

1 sprig parsley 2 tablespoons fat 
1 quart water 

Cut the onion, carrot, turnip, celery, cabbage leaf, pepper, 
and parsley into small even pieces, being careful to remove the 
seeds from the pepper. Add the water and boil until the vege- 
tables are tender. Add the bay leaf and cloves to the tomatoes, 
boil till tomatoes are tender. Strain and thicken with the fat 
and flour to which the seasonings have been added. Add the 
cooked vegetables without straining them. Should be sufficient 
to serve 6 or 8. 

Okra and Tomato Soup 

1 pint sliced okra 1 green pepper, seeds re- 
1^ pints tomatoes,pared and moved and pepper cut fine 

cut thin 2 teaspoons salt 

2 quarts water ^ teaspoon pepper 

3 tablespoons rice 2 tablespoons butter or 
3 tablespoons minced onion other fat 

Put all the ingredients into the soup pot and cook gently 

for 2 hours, then add 2 tablespoons of butter or sweet drippings 

and serve. The bones from roast meat or broiled meat cooked 

with this soup add to the flavor. Serves 6 to 8. 

129 



130 

Dried Pea Soup 

1 cup dried peas 3 tablespoons flour 
ly^ quarts water 1^ teaspoons salt 

2 tablespoons chopped ]/% teaspoon pepper 

onion 1 pint milk 

3 tablespoons butter 

Wash the peas and soak them over night in cold water, 
drain, and rinse thoroughly, add 2^ quarts of cold water and 
the onion ; cook slowly until soft, rub through a strainer and add 
the remainder of the liquid; melt butter, add flour and season- 
ings, then hot milk with the liquid from the peas, and cook until 
it is like thick cream. Cooking a ham bone with the peas im- 
proves the flavor. Serves 6 to 8. 

Black Bean Soup 

1 pint black beans 2 teaspoons salt 

1 tablespoon chopped onion ^ teaspoon pepper 
4 tablespoons butter or ^ lb. Cayenne 

fat salt pork ^ teaspoon mustard 

2 stalks celery or ^ teaspoon 2 tablespoons flour 

celery salt 1 large lemon 

2 quarts cold water 2 hard cooked eggs 

Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water, 
drain, and rinse thoroughly. Fry the onions in one-half of the 
fat, put with beans, add the celery root and 2 quarts cold water. 
Cook slowly until beans are soft, adding more water as it boils 
away; rub through a strainer, add the seasonings, and heat. Heat 
the remaining fat in a saucepan, add flour, then the hot soup 
gradually. Cut the lemon and eggs into thin slices and serve 
with the soup as a garnish. Serves 8. 

Dried Bean Soup 

1 quart dried beans 2 quarts cold water 

1 tablespoon chopped onion 2 teaspoons salt 

^ pound fat salt pork 34 teaspoon Cayenne pepper 

2 stalks celery, or ^ tea- 34 teaspoon mustard 

spoon celery salt 2 tablespoons flour 



131 



Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water, 
drain, and rinse thoroughly. Fry the onions in one half the fat, 
put with beans, add the celery salt and 2 quarts of cold water. 
Cook slowly until the beans are soft, adding more water as it 
boils away; rub through a strainer, add the seasonings and re- 
heat. Heat the remaining fat in a saucepan, add flour, then add 
the hot soup gradually. Serves 6 to 8. 

CREAM SOUPS 

The strained pulp of cooked vegetables, greens, and cereals 
with an equal portion of thin white sauce is the basis of cream 
soups. 

Thickening. A binding of butter and flour is used to pre- 
vent a separation of the thicker and thinner parts of soup; the 
butter should be heated until it bubbles, the flour and seasoning 
added, and then sufficient hot liquid to make a smooth sauce; 
this should be poured into the rest of the hot liquid just before 
the soup is to be served, and the soup should not be allowed to 
boil, after the vegetable pulp and milk have been combined, but 
kept over hot water. 

Two tablespoons of flour or half that amount of corn starch 
to each quart of soup is a good proportion to observe for thicken- 
ing all vegetable soups that are not of a starchy nature, half 
that amount will be sufficient for soup prepared from a very 
starchy vegetable. 

Economy. Attractive cream soups can be prepared from 
left-over vegetables and a combination of flavors may give good 
results. 

Cooking. The acid present in nearly all vegetables is very 
apt to produce a curdling in the milk if too high a temperature 
is maintained after they are combined. It is well not to combine 
the milk and the vegetable until just before serving. 



132 

Serving. Cream soups are served for luncheon and supper 
or with dinner if the other courses are not too rich. 

Accompaniments. Crisp crackers, croutons, soup sticks, or 
bread sticks are served as accompaniments with cream soups 
and are valuable because they necessitate thorough mastication, 
hence induce the flow of saliva and aid in the digestion of the 
starchy ingredients of the soup. 

Cream of Tomato Soup 

1 quart tomatoes , Ys cup flour 

fresh or canned 2 teaspoons salt 

}i teaspoon soda ^ teaspoon white pepper 

yi or ys cup butter or 1 quart milk (heated) 

butter substitute 
Cover and stew the tomatoes slowly one-half to one hour, 
rub through a strainer, and while hot add soda; make a tomato 
sauce with butter, flour, seasonings, and strained tomatoes, and 
add hot milk just before serving. Serves 8. 
Cream of Celery Soup 

2 cups celery ^ cup flour 

1 quart water ^ teaspoon salt 

2 cups milk (heated) ^ teaspoon white pepper 

3 tablespoons butter 

Cook the celery in boiling water until very soft, strain. 
Make a white sauce with butter, flour, seasonings, and milk, 
and cook until the consistency of thick cream, add celery stock 
or liquid before serving. 

Serve with 1 tablespoon whipped cream on each soup plate 
if desired. Serves 6. 

Potato Soup 

3 cups milk or 2 tablespoons flour 

3 cups milk and water 1 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon chopped onion ^ teaspoon white pepper 

4 potatoes Celery salt 

2 tablespoons butter or 2 teaspoons parsley 

butter substitute 



133 



Heat the milk and onion in a double boiler. Cook the 
potatoes until soft, and drain. Mash potaoes with a wire po- 
tato masher, add the hot milk slowly, strain, and using this as 
liquid make white sauce of remaining ingredients. Cook 5 
minutes, and add the chopped parsley just before serving. 
Serves 6. 

Cream of Potato Soup 

3 potatoes 1 teaspoon salt 

3 cups milk ' Pepper 

Yz cup cream Celery salt 

2 egg yolks 

Boil the potatoes until soft, drain, mash, add hot milk, 
and strain. Add beaten yolks, cream and seasonings. Cook in a 
double boiler a few minutes until egg thickens, stirring con- 
stantly. Serve immediately. Serves 6. 

Cream of Corn Soup 

1 can corn ^4 cup flour 

1 pint water 2 teaspoons salt 

1 tablespoon chopped onion ^ teaspoon white pepper 
y^ cup butter or butter sub- 1 quart milk 

stitute 2 egg yolks 

Cook corn with water 20 minutes; cook onion in butter 
until light brown, add flour, seasonings, and milk gradually, 
then add corn, strain, and reheat. Beat yolks of eggs, pour 
soup slowly over them, mix and serve immediately. Serves 8. 

Corn Chowder 

1 small onion 1 teaspoon salt 

3 tablespoons butter or ^ teaspoon pepper 

butter substitute % pint milk 

4 medium potatoes ^ can tomatoes or 
1 can corn 4 fresh tomatoes 

1 quart water y^ teaspoon soda 

1 tablespoon flour 



134 



Cut onion very fine. Brown slightly in 2 tablespoons 
fat. Put alternate layers of sliced potato and corn in kettle. Add 
onion. Cover with water. Simmer till tender. Make a white 
sauce of 1 tablespoon fat, flour, seasonings, and milk. Add 
white sauce to chowder. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes. 

Cook tomatoes, strain them, and just before serving add 
soda then add to chowder. Serves 8 to 10. 

Cream of Onion Soup 

3 large onions 1 teaspoon salt 

Yz cup butter or butter ^4 teaspoon white pepper 

substitute 1^ quart milk, stock, or 

^ cup flour water 

Chop or slice onions, add to hot fat and fry to a red brown. 
Add flour and seasonings and cook until slightly brown. Add 
hot liquid to make of the consistency of thick cream. Strain. 
Reheat and serve. Serves 6 to 8. 

Cream of Carrot Soup 

1 pint carrots, sliced 1^ quarts hot hilk 

2 tablespoons butter or 2 teaspoons salt 

butter substitute ^ teaspoon pepper 

4 tablespoons flour 
Cook carrots until very tender in enough boiling water to 
cover, then rub all through a strainer with a wooden spoon. 

Heat fat, add flour and then the carrot mixture, and when 
it boils well add hot milk and seasonings. Serve at once. 
Serves 6. 

Green Pea Soup 

1 pint or 1 can of peas 2 tablespoons flour 

1 quart water ^ teaspoon salt 

1 pint milk or cream White pepper 

2 tablespoons butter or ^ teaspoon sugar 

butter substitute 
Wash the peas and cook until soft in 1 quart of boiling 



135 



water. ^lash them in the water in which they were cooked, 
strain, and add the milk or cream; melt the fat, add flour and 
seasoning, then the liquid, and cook until of creamy consistency. 
If the peas are fresh some of the pods may be cooked with them. 
Serves 8. 

Peanut Soup 

1 pint shelled peanuts 2 tablespoons butter 

1 pint water 3 tablespoons flour 

1 tablespoon chopped onion 1 teaspoon salt 

1 quart milk Pepper 

Shell and chop the peanuts fine. Boil in the water five 
minutes if roasted peanuts are used, twenty minutes if unroasted 
peanuts are used. Scald milk with the onion, make into a white 
sauce with butter, flour and seasonings. Add boiled peanuts. 
Strain or not as desired. Serves 6. 

MEAT SOUPS 

Soup stock consists of the juices and soluble portions of 
meat or fish, bones and vegetables which have been extracted by 
long, slow cooking. The basis of stock may be beef, veal, mutton, 
fish, poultry, game, and vegetables. Proportions used should be 
Yz meat, Yz bone and 1 pint water to each 1 lb. meat. 

All waste portions of meat and bone and bits of cold cooked 
meats that have not been charred in cooking can be utilized in 
making stock. 

Vegetables and seasonings may be varied. 

Soup vegetables include carrots, turnips, celery, onions, 
leeks, and parsley. For seasoning, the pot herbs (summer savory, 
thyme, and marjoram), the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, salt, 
and pepper are used in soup. Tomatoes can be combined with 
brown stock to add flavor. 



136 



Rules to be Remembered in Making Stock 

1 Cut the meat up fine and put in cold water, for ^ to 

1 hour, 

2 Heat to boiling point and then simmer slowly 5 to 7 

hours. 

3 Add no starchy substance if stock is to be kept for 

some time. 

4 When cooked, strain and cool quickly, leaving stock un- 

covered until cold. 

5 The fat should not be removed from stock or broths that 

are to be kept, as when cold it will form a thin cover- 
ing over the stock excluding air and preventing de- 
composition. It should be entirely removed before 
reheating stock or broth, and should be reserved to be 
used in place of drippings. Small globules of fat 
may be removed from cold stock by skimming with a 
cloth, which has been dipped in boiling water, then 
wrung dry. Fat may be removed from hot broth by 
using tissue paper or a piece of bread. 

6 The meat which remains after straining the stock may 

be used in any recipe which calls for cold cooked meat 
— such as minced meat, croquettes, etc. 

Brown soup stock is prepared from beef, and the best results 
are obtained by browning a portion of the meat or by using cold 
cooked meat that is browned. It is usually seasoned with vege- 
tables, spices, and herbs. 

White Soup Stock is prepared from veal, turkey, chicken, 
or rabbit, delicately seasoned. 

Soup stock which is prepared from mutton is used only in 
special recipes and should not be combined with that from other 
meats. 

Bouillon is made from lean beef, delicately seasoned and 
clear. 



137 



Consomme is made from two or three kinds of meat — beef, 
veal, or fowl, and usually cleared. 
Broth is uncleared soup stock. 

Beef Stock or Brown Stock 

4 lb. meat and bone 2 quarts cold water 

Cut meat in small pieces, crack the bone and soak 1 hour 
in cold water, then cook at a low temperature for 5 hours. (Add 
vegetables if desired, then cook 2 hours longer.) Strain, chill 
quickly. Skim off fat before using. Serves 6. 

The trimmings and bones of fresh meats or bones and 
pieces from roasts may be cut into small pieces and used for 
stock, but no smoked or charred pieces of meat or bone should 
be used. Stock may be used for soups, gravies, and sauces. 
Dark caramel may be added to give a rich color. 

Beef stock is the foundation of all dark meat soups and is 
seasoned as desired with vegetables, cereals, or other flavors. 

White Stock 

1 knuckle of veal Parsley 

2 lbs. veal meat }4 teaspoon peppercorn 
^ cup onion 2 teaspoons salt 

y^. cup carrot 4 quarts cold water 

^ cup celery 
Cut meat in small pieces. 

Soak knuckle and veal in cold water 1 hour. Heat slowly 
until it boils. Cook slowly 4 to 5 hours. 

Add vegetables and cook 1 hour longer, strain, chill 
quickly. Skim before reheating. Add vegetables, cereals, or 
other flavorings as desired for serving. Serves 6 to 8. 

To Clear Soup or Stock 

To each quart of cool stock add white of one egg slightly 
beaten, and the crushed egg shell, heat until it boils, beating 
constantly. Boil 2 minutes without beating and cook gently 20, 



138 



minutes. Then let settle a few minutes. Remove scum and 
strain through muslin. 

Julienne or Vegetable Soup 

1 quart clear soup stock ^ pint vegetables 

Carrots, turnips, celery, peas, beans, etc., may be used. 
Cut the vegetables in threadlike pieces 2 inches long or in 
small cubes or fancy shapes, cook in boiling water until tender, 
and add to the cleared soup stock just before serving. Serves 
4 to 6. 

Bouillon 

4 lbs. meat and bone Pot herbs 

3 quarts cold water 1 bay leaf 

1 large onion 1 sprig parsley 

34 cup carrot 1 piece celery root 

Yz cup turnip 6 cloves * 

10 peppercorns 
Cut the meat into small pieces, crack the bones, and soak 
in the cold water for one hour. Cook gently 6 or 7 hours; then 
add the vegetables finely chopped and the seasonings; cook 2 
hours longer and strain. Several pieces of lemon rind may be 
heated with the stock if desired. If part of the meat and vege- 
tables are browned before adding to the water it improves the 
color and flavor. Clear. Serves 6 to 8. 

Cream of Rice with Stock 

1 quart white stock Ij^ cup milk 

^ cup cooked rice 1 teaspoon salt 

1 slice of onion ^ teaspoon pepper 

1 sprig of parsley ^ cup cream 

1 sprig of celery 

Add rice, onion, parsley, and celery to stock and boil ^ 
hour. Press through a sieve. Scald milk and add to strained 
stock. Add seasonings and reheat. 

Just before serving add cream. Serves 8. 



139 



Scotch Broth 

3 lbs. neck of mutton 1 tablespoon butter 

3 qts. water 2 tablespoons flour 

Yz cup pearl barley or rice 1 tablespoon salt 

y^ cup carrot ^ teaspoon pepper 

Ya, cup turnip 1 tablespoon chopped 
Yx cup celery parsley 

1 teaspoon chopped onion 

Remove the fat and bone and cut the meat into 1 inch 
pieces, soak in 2 quarts cold water 1 hour, then bring quickly 
to boiling point and skim. Drain the barley, which has been 
soaked in cold water over night, add this to the broth, and 
cook for 2 hours at low temperature. Soak the bones in the 
other quart of cold water 1 hour, then heat slowly and boil 2 
hours, skim, strain, and add liquid to the broth from the meat. 
Add the vegetables to broth and cook until they are soft. 
Thicken with butter and flour cooked together, add seasoning, 
and just before serving add chopped parsley. 

Gumbo Soup 

1 chicken 1 quart okra pods 
Flour for dredging 1 quart sliced tomatoes- 

Bacon or other fat Salt and pepper 

1 onion ^ cup rice 

Cut up the chicken as for fricassee, and dredge it thor- 
oughly with flour. Slice the onion and cook in the hot fat till 
golden brown, then brown the sliced okra pods. 

Put the chicken, onion, okra, and sliced tomatoes into a 
kettle and simmer until chicken is tender. Remove the large 
bones and the fat, season, and add the boiled rice. Serves 8 to 10, 



140 

FISH SOUPS 
Fish Cho'w^der 

1 lb. fish 4 tablespoons flour 

2 pints cold water 2 teaspoons salt 

4 potatoes ^ teaspoon white pepper 

4 tablespoons butter 1 quart milk 

2 small onions, cut fine 
Remove fish from bone and cut in ^-inch pieces. Put 
bones in kettle, cover with 1 pint water, and cook. Pare and 
slice potatoes ;^-inch thick. Soak in cold water % hour. Par- 
boil 5 minutes. Pour off water. 

Saute onion in half the butter; strain butter into soup kettle, 
add sliced potatoes and cover with 1 pint boiling water, and boil 
10 minutes. Strain water from bones into the kettle. When all 
boils well, add fish and simmer 10 minutes. 

Make a white sauce of 2 tablespoons of butter, flour, 
seasonings, and the hot milk and add to the fish in the kettle. 
Serve at once. Serves 8 to 10. 

Oyster Stew (plain) 

1 quart milk, scalded 1 teaspoon salt 

1 pint or 30 oysters and their Pepper 

juice 1 tablespoon butter 

Scald the milk. Strain the juice from the oysters, pick 
them over carefully to remove the shell and wash in cold water. 
When ready to serve cook the strained oyster juice, then add 
the oysters, and cook until the edges curl. Add the seasonings, 
butter and hot milk. Serve at once. Serves 6 to 8. 

Oyster Stew (thickened) 

1 pint oysters 2 tablespoons chopped 

1^ quarts milk parsley 

1 teaspoon chopped onion 1 teaspoon salt 

y^. cup butter y% teaspoon pepper 
y^ cup flour 



141 



Strain the juice from the oysters and heat it. Pick the 
oysters over carefully to remove bits of shell, washing them with 
cold water. A few minutes before serving add the oysters to 
the hot juice and simmer until the oysters look plump and the 
edges are curled. 

Scald the milk with the chopped onion, melt the butter and 
flour, add the seasonings and hot milk. When ready to serve 
add the cooked oysters with their liquor and the chopped 
parsley. Serves 8 to 10. 

Clam Puree 

1 pint clams Salt and pepper 

y^. cup clam juice ^ teaspoon Worcestershire 

1 pint hot milk sauce 

1 tablespoon flour 

Cook the clams until the edges curl, remove the siphon, and 
chop them very fine. Melt the butter, add flour and seasonings, 
then the hot milk slowly. Add clams, and ^ cup clam juice. 

When hot strain and serve. Serves 4. 



MEAT 

The term "meats" applies to the flesh of animals which is 
used as food and includes Meats Proper, Poultry, and Game. 

Specifically the term "meat" is applied to the flesh of 
domestic animals which is used as food — beef, veal, mutton, 
lamb and pork. 

The parts of animals used for food include the muscular 
tissue with fat and bone; special organs as the heart, liver, 
kidney, tongue, etc.; and such glands as the sweetbreads, pan- 
creas, brains, etc. 

The quality of the meat is dependent upon the following 
points : 

1 Breed of the animal. 

2 Age of the animal — Beef, three to eight years. 

Mutton, over one year. 
Veal, six to ten weeks. 
Lamb, under one year. 

3 Size of the animal. 

4 Manner of fattening — stall fed or grass fed. 

5 Amount of exercise. 

6 Length of time killed 

In preparation for market, the animal is killed, bled, 
dressed, and hung in a room whose temperature is slightly above 
the freezing point. During hanging a process of ripening takes 
place which causes the meat to become more tender. The meat 
of young animals is allowed to ripen for a few days, beef for 
three weeks, and mutton for even a longer time. 

When meat is sold it is divided into cuts, which are varied 
according to the animal, its size and the purpose for which the 
cut is to be used. 

The cost of meat is dependent on the local conditions and 
niarket prices. In general the more tender cuts are the most 

142 



143 



expensive but their nutritive value is no higher than that of the 
tough cuts. 

Meat should be removed from the paper as soon as it comes 
from the market and kept in a cool place. It should never stand 
in the open air exposed to dust and flies but should be kept 
covered. 

BEEF 

Beef is the meat most commonly used. It is in season all 
the year, its food value is high, and it is easy of digestion when 
well cooked. 

Tests for Good Beef 

1 Color — bright red after standing. 

2 Texture — fine-grained, firm. 

3 Juicy — not dry. 

4 Fat — straw-colored, abundant, distributed through the 

tissue of the meat. 

5 Bone not large in proportion to meat. 

6 Odor — slight but pleasant. 

7 Connective tissue not abundant. 

8 Cuts made across grain where possible. 

Because of the large size of the beef animal (450 to 600 
pounds for family use, 900 to 1000 pounds for hotel use) it is 
divided into many cuts that can be cooked in a great variety of 
ways. The housekeeper can secure variet\" for the table by 
making: use of the various cuts. 



♦v. 



145 

Principal Cuts Shown in Illustration on Opposite Page 



1 Shank or leg 


10 Plate 


2 Shoulder 


11 Flank 


3 Brisket 


12 Loin 


4 Knee Bone 


13 Rump 


5 Neck 


14 Round 


6 Short Ribs or Cross Ribs 


15 Horse Shoe Piece 


7 Chuck Ribs 


16 Soup Bone 


8 Prime Ribs 


17 Tail 


9 Navel 





Cuts of Beef 

The beef animal is divided down the middle of the back 
bone into two halves called sides, and each side is divided into 
two parts called quarters. 

THE FORE QUARTER 

The fore quarter is all that portion of the side lying in 
front of and including the last rib. In some markets the last 
rib is not included in the fore quarter. 

The "Shank" or "Leg" is the first cut of the fore quarter. 
It is used for soup bone. The shank contains the "marrow 
bone" which is the middle portion of the shank bone. This is 
sometimes cooked and served on toast. 

The "Shoulder Clod" or "Round Shoulder Piece" is the 
next cut; this is divided into two cuts, each about three inches 
thick. The second or upper cut is best. The "Shoulder Clod" 
is used for pot-roast. 

The "Shoulder" contains two distinct layers of meat which 
are separated and boned, and used for cheap roasts, and pot- 
roasts. The inner portion of the shoulder from which the ribs 
are removed is the better. 

The "Brisket" is the cut just in front of the shoulder. The 
ends of five ribs are included in the brisket. The ribs are taken 



146 



out and the meat is sold as rolled roast, or corned and sold as 
boneless brisket. 

The "Knee Bone" just above the brisket is a round bone 
surrounded by much gelatin but contains little marrow. It is 
sold for soup. 

The "Neck" is used for stews, soup, and mince-meat. 

The diaphram which lies inside the fore-quarter separating 
the lungs from the intestines is called "Skirt Steak." It is 
removed whole, stuffed, rolled and braized, or cooked as pot- 
roast. 

The "Short Ribs" or "Cross Ribs" lie just above the bris- 
ket. They are divided into two narrow cuts which are used for 
roasting and are served with browned potatoes. 

The "Chuck Ribs" include the first six ribs back of the 
neck. They are sometimes trimmed for steaks or roasts, but 
make poor roasts; hence they are usually boned and rolled, and 
used in braizing, pot roasting, and stewing. 

The last seven ribs are called the "Prime Ribs" or "Short 
Ribs." They are used for choice roasts, the last five giving the 
best cuts. The sixth or seventh ribs contain some cartilage from 
the shoulder blade, and more connective tissue, hence are not so 
desirable. 

The "Navel End" lies just back of the brisket and shoul- 
der, and is used for soup meat, boiling, hash, or corning. 

The "Plate" which lies just above the navel and includes 
the lower portion of the ribs is used in the same ways as the 
navel. 

THE HIND QUARTER 

The hind quarter of beef is all that portion of the side 
lying back of the last rib. In some markets the last rib is 
included in the hind quarter. 

The "Flank Steak" is the first portion to be removed from 



147 



the hind quarter. It is a large flat muscle imbedded in fat. It 
is sold whole and is stuffed and rolled, or doubled up and 
braized. 

The "Tip of Flank" is the thick portion lying just back 
of plate, and is cut up for beef stews. 

Inside the hind quarter is the "Cod fat," a soft fat sur- 
rounding the muscles, used for beef drippings. 

The "Suet" is a hard fat which lies about the kidneys, and 
is used for shortening, suet puddings, etc. 

The "Kidneys" lie embedded in the suet under the loin. 
There is one kidney in each hind quarter. The kidneys are pre- 
pared as a stew. 

The "Loin" which extends from the last rib to the rump is 
used for steaks and roasts. 

The "Club Steaks," "Short Steaks,," or "Delmonico Steaks" 
are the first cuts of the loin. If cut three inches thick there are 
just two club steaks. 

The "Porterhouse Steaks" lie back of the club steaks. They 
contain more fat and tenderloin than any of the other steaks. 
There are four or five Porterhouse steaks. 

The "Sirloin Steaks" lie back of the Porterhouse. 

The sirloin cuts include two or three Pin-Bone Steaks, 
two Flat Bone Steaks(the most choice cuts of the Sirloin), and 
about three Round Bone Steaks. 

The "Tenderloin" lies under the bones of the loin. It is a 
long tapering muscle beginning just back of the ribs, and 
extending to the rump. It is usually included in the loin steaks 
but is also removed separately and used for broiling or roasting. 
It is a very expensive cut. 

The "Rump" lying just back of the loin is used for pot 
roasts and corned beef. The lower part of the rump towards the 
round contains poorer meat, and is sold for a lower price. 

The "Round" which lies just under the rump, is used 



148 



principally for steaks. It may be divided into as many as 
twenty-five steaks. It is also excellent to use in the preparation 
of beef tea. The "Upper Round" is the inner portion which al- 
ways lies uppermost on the block. The "Lower Round" is the 
outer portion and rests against the block. 

The middle cut of the leg, called the "Horse Shoe Piece," is 
used for pot roasts and mince meat. 

The "Shank," or "Soup Bone," is the lower portion of the 
hind leg. 

The tail is used for soup. 

The bones which are removed in boning and trimming 
meat are scrapped and the small pieces of lean and fat are all 
used in Hamburg steak. 

As sold in the market the cuts are usually weighed before 
trimming. 

The bones are sold to the bone man and ground up for 
chicken food ; the waste fat is used for making soap. 

VEAL 

Veal is the name applied to the meat from the young calf 
of from 6 weeks to 9 months old. Meat from a younger animal 
is very unwholesome and its use is prohibited by law. "Bob- 
veal" is the name given to the flesh of a calf four weeks old — 
sometimes sold illegally. 

Not only the flesh but also the heart, tongue, liver, kidneys, 
sweetbreads, and brains of the veal are used as food. 

Veal is in season in the spring and early summer but can 
usually be obtained from the market throughout the year. 

Veal is not improved by long hanging but should be eaten 
soon after killing and dressing. In general the flesh of the 
young animal does not keep so long as that of the mature animal. 

The cuts of veal differ from those of beef, being fewer in 



149 



number. There are only six general cuts, the breast, shoulder, 
neck, leg, loin, and knuckles. 

The chuck portion is usually included in the shoulder and 
neck. 

The plate is included in the breast. 

The rump is included in the loin or leg. 

Chops are cut from the loin. 

Cutlets, steaks, fillet, and fricandeau or cushion are taken 
from the thick part of the leg. 

The rack includes all the ribs on both sides. 

Good veal should have a fine grained, pinkish colored flesh; 
clear, firm, white fat; and hard, good-sized bones. The meat 
of an animal which is too young is white and lacks in flavor. 
The same is true of an animal which has been bled before kill- 
ing. Veal which appears soft, flabby, gelatinous, blue, and 
watery is poor. 

Veal from a milk fed calf is best; that from a grass fed 
is poorest. 

Veal is never a cheap food because of the large amount of 
fuel required to cook it thoroughly and the comparatively small 
amount of nourishment it .contains. 

In composition veal is lacking in fats but is rich in protein 
and contans more gelatin than beef. It does not contain the 
valuable extractives present in beef. 

Veal is very unwholesome unless thoroughly cooked. 

Because it is lacking in fat, pork and other fats are fre- 
quently combined with it in cooking. 

It is well to accompany veal with rich, well-seasoned dres- 
sings; such seasonings as bay leaf, peppercorn, parsley and Wor- 
cestershire sauce are good additions. 

Veal is seldom served plain boiled because of its lack of 
flavor, but it is often used in well-seasoned stews. 

The general modes of cooking veal include: 



150 



Shoulder — Stew or roast. 

Neck — Stew or soup. 

Breast — Roast or stew. 

Leg — Cutlets for frying. 

Loin — Chops for broiling or roasts. 

Knuckles — Soup (most valuable in soup because of 
large amount of gelatine). 

Head — Soup. 
Veal is very difficult of digestion because of the tenacity of 
its fibers which renders it difficult of mastication. Because it 
is immature it is lacking in salts and flavor, and the flow of 
gastric juice is not excited. 

Veal ranks low among the heat producing foods because of 
lack of fat. Because of the difficulty of digesting it, it is not 
a valuable meat for food. 

MUTTON 

Mutton is the meat of sheep from three to five years old. 
The best English mutton is taken from a sheep six years old. 
Lamb is the meat of young sheep of from six weeks to three 
months old. When one year old, lamb is spoken of as yearling. 
Mutton is raised throughout the United States. Mutton is mar- 
keted throughout the year. Spring lamb is in season through the 
spring and summer beginning with February and March. 

Mutton is hung from three to six weeks before using in 
order to ripen or develop flavor. 

Lamb should not be kept long after killing. 

Cuts of Mutton 

The animal is first split down the backbone, then divided 
into fore and hind quarters. 

There are usually six divisions of cuts of mutton — the neck, 
chuck, shoulder, flank, loin and leg, or, neck, shoulder, breast, 
rib chops, loin, and leg. 



151 



The loin and leg together are sometimes known as the 
haunch. 

The two loins, if not separated, form the saddle. The long 
saddle has the rump and tail left on; the short saddle consists 
only of the loins. 

The ribs and loin together form the rack. 

The small cuts from the ribs and loin are known as chops. 
Those from the last eight ribs nearest the loin are the best but 
all the rib chops have a large amount of waste and are very 
expensive cuts. 

French chops are rib chops with the end of the bone 
trimmed off. 

The leg is the most economical cut for a large family, as 
there is but little waste. 

The flesh of sheep is fine grained with a shorter fiber 
than beef. The meat from the grain or grass-fattened mutton 
has the best flavor. 

Good mutton should have a dull red or deep pink color; 
it should be firm to the touch but juicy. The fat should be 
abundant and be in little lines through the flesh. The fat is 
white, hard, and flaky containing a large per cent of stearin. 
There is usually a thick layer of fat on the back and legs. 
The bones should be small. 

Good lamb will be a little less firm than mutton, more 
whitish in color, but the flesh should be clear, the fat white. 

Lamb will be more fat than veal and mutton. 

The bones in lamb chops are more pink and flexible than 
in mutton. 

The bone at the leg joint in lamb is rough and serrated — 
in mutton it is smooth and round. 

Lamb is more expensive than mutton and the cuts are 
smaller with more waste. 

In chemical composition mutton closely resembles beef; 



152 



the per cent of fat in mutton may be higher than in beef. 

Mutton requires more care in handling and cooking than 
beef. 

Improper cooking and low grade mutton have developed 
a strong prejudice against mutton with many people. 

If the thick, tough membrane just inside the outer skin 
enveloping the animal is left on, it gives a "wooly flavor" to 
the meat as the oil strikes through. This skin should be re- 
moved when the meat is prepared for cooking. 

Mutton is not liable to disease and mutton chops may be 
served rare. Though lamb is delicate and tender, it must be 
well-cooked to be wholesome. 

The meat of the fore-quarter or shoulder is boned and 
stuffed for roasting. 

The neck, breast, and flank are used for stews, pot pies^ 
and boiling. 

The neck is also used for broth. 

The portion above the hoof called "Sheep's Trotters" is 
used in Jellies, Pickling, and Sousing. 

The ribs, loin, leg, and rump may be used for roasting. 
The ribs and loin are more frequently cut into chops for broiling. 

The leg is one of the best roasts and is also excellent for 
boiling. 

To counteract the effect of the large amount of fat in 
mutton it is served with acid sauces — mint, caper, tomato, highly 
seasoned curry, etc. 

It is accompanied with peas, asparagus, new potatoes, etc. 

Mutton ranks next to beef in food value and composition 
but is a little more difficult of digestion; if very fat, the mutton 
disagrees with some people. 

PORK 

Pork differs from other meats chiefly in the large amount 
of fat distributed through the muscular fiber. This renders 



153 



the meat difficult of digestion and makes it a particularly valu- 
able food for cold weather and for those engaged in heavy 
muscular work. Pork must always be thoroughly cooked. Under 
no conditions should it be served rare. The fatty tissue of 
pork provides one of the most valuable fats for cooking pur- 
poses. 

COOKING OF MEATS 

When meat is to be used, it should be weighed, trimmed, 
and wiped with a cloth wrung out of cold water. 

Meat is cooked to develop the extractives, to improve the 
appearance, to soften the connective tissue, and to destroy germs. 

Methods of cooking include broiling, roasting or baking, 
braising or pot roasting, boiling or stewing, and soup making. 

Time for cooking meats will vary with the kind of meat, 
the cut used, the method of cooking employed, and the con- 
dition of the fiber. 

Dark meats may be served rare; light meats should always 
be well done. 

To Cook Tender Cuts of Meat 

Tender cuts of meat taken from the loin, ribs, or round 
are best cooked by dry heat because of the flavors developed. 

Broiling, pan-broiling and roasting are all methods of 
cooking by dry heat. 

When meat is to be cooked by any of these methods it is 
first seared by exposure to a high heat, then the temperature is 
slightly lowered and the meat is cooked at this temperature till 
done. By searing, the albumen on the outside of the meat is 
hardened forming a crust so that the juices of the meat cannot 
escape. 

To Cook Tough Cuts of Meat 

The tougher cuts of meat must be cooked by a moist heat 
for a long time slowly in order to soften and dissolve the con- 
nective tissue. 



154 



The methods of cooking by moist heat are known as: 

Braising or Pot Roasting — a small amount of water is 
used and the kettle is closely covered so that the steam is all 
retained. 

Boiling — a large quantity of boiling water is used so that 
the meat is entirely immersed. 

Stewing — the meat is cut up and covered with water which 
is flavored and seasoned and served with the meat. 

Soup-making — a large quantity of cold water is put over 
the meat, which is well cut up, the juices of the meat are ex- 
tracted, and only the stock is served. 

To Render or Try Out Fat 

Remove tough outside skin and lean parts from any animal 
fat and then cut into small pieces. Put fat into a sauce pan, 
cover with cold water and cook uncovered so that steam may 
carry oft' impurities. When water has all evaporated simmer to 
let fat fry out slowly from membrane. When fat is still and 
scraps of skin are all shrivelled, strain through a cloth and cool. 

To Clarify Fat 

Add a few slices of raw potato to fat when it is rather cool 
and heat it gradually until potato is well-browned. Strain 
through muslin or a double thickness of cheesecloth placed in 
a wire strainer. Cool quickly and then cover. 
To Wash Frying Kettle 

W^ipe kettle out with newspaper. Fill nearly full of water 
and add 1 tablespoon washing soda. Heat until water boils. 

Put in all the utensils that have been used in the fat. Then 
wash them thoroughly. 

Broiling 

Remove extra fat from the meat and grease the broiler 
with some of the fat. Place meat on broiler and broil directly 



155 



over a clear fire, searing first on each side and then turning 
every 10 seconds. Cook until well-puffed and brown. Season 
with salt, pepper and butter, and serve on a hot platter. Time 
for broiling varies with thickness of the meat. Cook a 1-inch 
steak 8 to 10 minutes; 1^-inch steak, 10 to 15 minutes; 2 -inch 
steak, 15 to 20 minutes. 

Pan-Broiling 

Remove fat from the meat. Heat a frying pan smoking 
hot without adding any fat. Sear the meat on both sides, de- 
crease heat, then cook more slowly until done, turning every ten 
seconds. Stand chops on edge to brown. Keep the pan free 
from excess fat. The time for pan-broiling is the same as for 
broiling. 

Roasting 

Skewer meat in shape, lay it on a rack in a meat pan, 
season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sear in a 
very hot oven. The oven should be hot enough to color a 
piece of unglazed white paper to golden brown in one minute. 
After ten minutes lower the heat of the oven and baste the 
meat every ten minutes with fat from the pan. 

Time for Roasting 

Rib Roast, Rare 10-12 min. per lb. 

Rib Roast, Well done • . . . . 18-20 min. per lb. 

Rolled Roast, Rare 12-15 min. per lb. 

Rolled Roast, Well done 20-22 min. per lb. 

Brown Gravy to serve with Roasted or Broiled Meat 

4 tablespoons fat % teaspoon pepper 

4 tablespoons flour 1^ cup boiling water or 

^ teaspoon salt stock 

Use fat from the dripping pan in which meat has been 
roasted or broiled, add flour and seasonings, and stir until 



156 



browned. Then add boiling liquid slowly and stir until smooth 
and bubbling. 

Season with Worcestershire sauce if desired. Serves 12. 

Boiled Meat 

To boil meat place a compact piece of meat in boiling 
water and allow the water to boil for 10 to 15 minutes, then 
simmer until tender. All tough meat may be made tender if 
cooked in this way. Time for cooking meat in water varies 
with the weight and quality of meat; allow 20 minutes to the 
pound, and 20 minutes extra for a large piece. 

Gravy for Boiled Meat 

Yz cup flour 1 cup cold water 

1 teaspoon salt 1 quart boiling stock 

Pepper 

Twenty minutes before the boiled meat is to be served,, 
moisten the flour and seasonings for the gravy with cold water 
and stir until smooth. Add slowly to the boiling liquid in 
which the meat is cooking, stir vigorously, then cook slowly for 
the remaining twenty minutes. 

Hamburg Steak 

1 lb. lean beef (from round) 1 teaspoon onion juice 
^ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 

y^ teaspoon pepper 

Chop meat fine or run through a meat grinder. Season^ 
shape in small flat cakes, and pan-broil, just rubbing frying 
pan with fat. Serves 6 to 8. 

Beef Loaf or Veal Loaf 

3 lbs. beef or veal chopped 1>^ tablespoons butter or 

fine other fat 

Yz lb. salt pork chopped fine 3 eggs 

1 cup cracker crumbs Salt and pepper 

2 tablespoons milk 



157 



Mix and shape into a loaf. Place in a roasting pan and 
just before baking pour 1 cup hot water over loaf. Roast 1^ 
hours, basting every 10 minutes. Loaf may be wrapped in 
heav}' buttered paper before putting in pan. Serves 10 to 12. 

Beef or Veal Stew 

2 lbs. beef or veal from leg ^ cup carrot cut in dice 

or shoulder 4 potatoes cut in }^ in. 
1 quart water slices 

Salt, pepper, flour to ^ teaspoon pepper 

dredge 1 teaspoon salt 

1 onion cut in slices Yz cup flour 

^ cup turnip cut in dice ^ cup cold water 

Remove fat and cut the meat into 1-inch pieces. Reserve 
half of the best pieces of meat, put the rest of the meat and the 
bone into cold water, soak for 1 hour, then heat until it bubbles. 
Season half the raw meat and roll it in the flour; melt the fat 
in a frying pan, remove the scraps, brown the sliced onion, and 
then the floured meat in the hot fat, add both to the stew and 
cook for 2 hours at a low temperature. To this add the vegetables 
and cook ^ hour, then the flour and seasonings which have been 
mixed with ^ cup cold water, and cook for ^ hour longer 
until the meat and vegetables are tender. Remove the bone from 
stew, and serve. Serves 6 to 8. 

Pot Roast of Beef 

3 lbs. beef round (a thick 4 cloves 

chunk) 3 cups boiling water 

Flour ^ cup each diced carrots, 

2 slices fat salt pork onions, turnips, celery 
9 pepper corns Pepper and salt 

Yi bay leaf 

Try out pork and remove scraps. Wipe meat, skewer and 

tie in compact form, dredge with flour, and brown entire surface 

in pork fat. Place on rack in pot, surround with vegetables, 

spices and boiling water. Season with salt and pepper. Cover 



158 



closely. Simmer 4 hours. Turn every second hour. Renew 
water if necessary. Strain liquor in pot and serve as a sauce or 
gravy. Serves 6 to 8. 

Stuffed Skirt, Flank, or Round Steak 

2 lbs. beef round steak or ^ teaspoon pepper 

1 skirt steak or 1 flank 2 tablespoons butter, melted 

steak 2 tablespoons beef drippings 

2 cups bread crumbs 1 onion, diced 
2 tablespoons chopped 1 carrot, diced 

parsley 1 sprig parsley 

1 teaspoon onion juice 1 bay leaf 

2 teaspoons sweet marjoram 2 cloves 

1 teaspoon salt 2 cups boiling water 

Add parsley, onion juice, marjoram, salt and pepper to 
bread crumbs and add all to melted butter. 

Wipe and trim steak, and spread dressing over it evenly. 
Roll up tightly and tie with twine. 

Sear the rolled steak in the hot beef drippings; place in a 
kettle or casserole; then surround with vegetables, seasonings, 
and water; cover closely and cook slowly 2 hours, or till meat 
is tender. Serves 6 to 8. 

Roast Veal 

5 lbs. shoulder of veal ^ teaspoon thyme 

4 cups bread crumbs Yz teaspoon savory 

2 teaspoons salt ^^ teaspoon marjoram 
y^ teaspoon pepper 4 tablespoons butter 

Bone the shoulder. Prepare stuffing by adding seasonings 
to bread crumbs, then add all to melted butter. Fill the cavity in 
shoulder and sew or skewer meat into shape. Season and 
dredge with flour. 

Heat 34 cup fat in a roasting pan, and brown the surface 
of the roast in it. Then place roast on a rack, and add 1 cup 
boiling water, and cook in a moderate oven. Allow ^ hour to 



159 



the pound for veal. To protect crust from burning, cover 
with buttered paper. Serves 10 to 12. 

Breaded Veal Cutlets 

lYz lbs. veal cutlets from 1 egg 

round 1 tablespoon water 

Salt 4 tablespoons drippings 

Pepper 1 recipe sauce for cutlets 

Fine bread crumbs 
Wipe the meat and cut in pieces for individual serving, re- 
moving bone, skin, and tough membranes. Skewer small pieces 
of meat together with wooden tooth picks. Season with salt and 
pepper, roll in fine bread crumbs, dip in egg (which has been 
beaten with the 1 tablespoon water), then in crumbs again. 
Melt the fat in a frying pan and brown the cutlets on both sides 
or fry in deep fat. Transfer them to a sauce pan and cover 
with a sauce prepared according to the following recipe, then 
cook at a low temperature for one hour or until tender, turning 
occasionally. Serves 12 to 16. 

Beef round may be utilized in the same way. 

Sauce for Cutlets 

2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon Worcestershire 

^ cup flour sauce 

Yz teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons chopped 

y^ teaspoon pepper parsley 

1 pint stock or water 
Melt fat, add flour and seasonings, brown slightly then add 
hot stock slowly. Add Worcestershire sauce and chopped parsley 
and pour over cutlets. (Note — Stock can be prepared by cover- 
ing the bone and trimmings of the meat with cold water, heating 
it, and cooking slowly 2 to 3 hours). 

Meat Pie 

To prepare a crust for meat pie follow the recipe for baking 
powder biscuits using one half the recipe with double the amount 



160 



of fat (two tablespoons). Roll ^ inch thick and place over a 
meat stew (use one half the recipe) that has been cooked and 
seasoned and turned into a baking dish. Space should be left 
between the crust and the edge of the dish for the escape of 
steam. Bake 20 to 30 minutes browning nicely on top. Serves 
6 to 8. See also pastry. 

Ragout of Mutton 

iy2 lbs. neck mutton 2 cloves 

2 tablespoons butter or 1^ cup water or stock 

drippings (boiling) 

Flour to dredge 1 teaspoon salt 

1 onion, chopped %. teaspoon pepper 

1 carrot, chopped 3 tablespoons ilour 

1 sprig parsley y^ cup cold water 
1 bay leaf 

Wipe meat, cut in small pieces 1 inch square and dredge 
with flour. 

Heat fat, brown chopped vegetables, then sear meat. Cover 
with boiling water, add seasonings, cover kettle, and cook slowly 
for 2 hours till meat is tender. Then add flour moistened with 
cold water, stir and cook 20 minutes longer. Serves 6. 

Curry of Mutton 

2 lbs. neck mutton ^ cup flour 

3 onions, sliced ^ teaspoon salt 

^ teaspoon peppercorns ^ teaspoon pepper 

1 sprig thyme ^ tablespoon curry 
1 sprig parsley 2 tablespoons fat 

1 quart boiling water 

Boil mutton with vegetables and spices till tender. 

Make a sauce with butter, flour, salt, pepper, curry, and 
1 pint liquor from meat. Add meat, reheat, and serve with 
boiled rice. Serves 6 to 8. 



161 



Boiled Mutton 

^^'ipe meat, remove the pink skin and extra fat, and put 
into boiling water, boil 15 minutes, add 1 tablespoon salt and 
cook at a low temperature until tender, allowing 20 minutes for 
every pound. 

Boiled Ham, Tongue, or Calf's Heart 

After cleaning meat thoroughly put in cold water and heat 
gradually until the water bubbles, then cook at a low tem- 
perature until tender; remove from the fire and allow to stand 
in the water in which it was cooked for one hour; remove from 
the water and draw off the skin. A boiled ham may be covered 
with fine bread crumbs, and 2 tablespoons brown sugar, and 
then placed in the oven ^ hour to brown. Baste with ^ cup 
\'inegar and 4 tablespoons brown sugar while in oven. 

Corned Beef 

Put corned beef in cold w-ater; cook slowly for several 
hours till tender; let stand in stock 15 to 20 minutes. Then 
take out bone, and if to be served cold, press into shape by cover- 
ing with a weight so that it will slice well. 

Baked Heart 

1 beef heart 2 teaspoons butter or 

2 cups bread crumbs other fat 
1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 egg 

1 teaspoon summer savory 2 tablespoons beef 

1 teaspoon salt drippings 

% teaspoon pepper 

Add seasoning to bread crumbs, then add to melted butter, 
stir beaten egg in and mix thoroughly.- 

Wash heart thoroughly, removing veins, arteries, and 
clotted blood carefully. Stuff wdth dressing, and sew up. Saute 
in beef drippings. Partiall}- cover with boiling water and cook 



162 



in covered kettle several hours till heart is perfectly tender. 
Then set in oven for a few minutes. Serves 10 to 12. 

Braised Tongue 

1 boiled tongue ^ cup carrots, diced 

Yz cup onion, diced ^ cup celery, diced 

1 sprig parsley 3 cups water 

Put tongue in baking dish, surround with vegetables and 
water. Cover dish closely and bake two hours. Serve with 
brown sauce, tomato, or njushroom sauce. Serves 12 to 16. 
Brown Sauce for Braised Tongue 

2 tablespoons fat 2 cups water from dish in 
4 tablespoons flour which tongue is baked 

Yi teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon Worcestershire 

y^ teaspoon pepper sauce 

Melt fat, add flour and seasonings, and cook until a gold- 
en brown, then add hot water slowly. When it boils up and 
is thick, add Worcestershire sauce and serve. 

Kidney Stew 

1 calf kidney ^ teaspoon salt 

1 small onion ^ teaspoon pepper 

2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon chopped 
2 tablespoons flour parsley 

1 pint boiling water 

2 tablespoons vinegar or 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 

Soak kidney in cold water 1 hour. Peel and slice onion; 
cut kidney in small slices and brown quickly with onion and 
butter. Add flour and stir until brown, then pour in boiling 
water slowly. Add salt and pepper to season, and stew gently for 
10 minutes. Add parsley, vinegar or sauce and serve. The en- 
tire operation should be finished in about twenty minutes, be- 
cause kidney grows tough if cooked too long. Serves 6 to 8. 



163 



Creamed Chipped Beef 

1^ lb. dried beef, chipped 3 tablespoons flour 

2 tablespoons butter or Pepper 

other fat 1 ^ cup hot milk 

Cover the beef with boiling water for 3 minutes, then drain 
all water off. 

Heat 1 tablespoon butter and brown beef in it until it is 
curled. 

Remove meat from pan, putting it in a dish to keep warm, 
and add remaining 1 tablespoon butter to frying pan. Make 
a sauce by adding flour, pepper, and milk; stir meat in; add salt 
if necessary. Serves 6 to 8. 

LIVER 

The livers of many animals are used for food. Those of 
the beef, calf, and lamb are most commonly used. 

The liver is one of the cheap animal f^ods unless there is a 
great demand for it, then the price is higher. 

Liver is solid and compact in form and contains but little 
connective tissue, though a tough skin covers it and the veins 
which pass through it have very tough walls. 

In preparing liver it is necessary to wash and scald it 
thoroughly and to remove the outer skin and veins carefully. 
There is but little waste. 

Liver is sauted, stewed, and baked. If cooked too long it 
toughens. 

It is well to serve liver with an accompaniment of heat- 
producing foods — hence, it is usually accompanied by bacon and 
starchy food such as potato and flour gravy. 

Liver is rather difficult of digestion because so compact 
in form. 

Its nutritive value is high — rather higher 'than that of 
muscular tissue. 



164 



To Cook Liver 

Cover slices of liver cut ^ inch thick with boiling water, 
let stand 5 minutes, drain, wipe, and remove the thin outside 
skin and veins carefully with a knife. Sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, dredge with flour, and cook until brown in bacon fat. 

BACON 

Bacon is prepared from the flanks of pork, salted, dried, 
and smoked. 

Bacon is an expensive form of food. 

Sliced and packed in jars it is still more expensive and 
only desirable when bacon in the strips will not keep well. 

Bacon consists largely of fat, though it contains some layers 
of lean or muscular tissue. 

Before cooking bacon the rind should be removed, all ex- 
posed surfaces scrapejd with a knife and the bacon sliced in thin 
even slices for cooking. 

Bacon is broiled, pan-broiled, and baked in the oven. It 
should be cooked until crisp so that it can be readily acted upon 
by the digestive juices. 

Next to butter and cream bacon is the most easily digested 
of animal fats. It is easily assimilated and very nutritious. 

To Cook Bacon 

Place thin slices of bacon (from which the rind has been 
removed) in a hot frying pan and pour off the fat as fast as it 
comes out. When the bacon is crisp, drain on paper. Keep 
hot. Or lay bacon on a rack in a baking pan and bake in a hot 
oven until crisp. 

SWEETBREADS 

Sweetbread is the term applied to the thymus gland of the 
calf. This gland becomes so changed as not to be edible when 



165 



the animal grows older; in some animals it may eventually be 
absorbed. 

The sweetbread is obtained in pairs because there are two 
parts of the thymus gland which are connected by tubing and 
membrane. That portion known as the heart sweetbread lies 
over the heart; it is short and thick. The throat sweetbread is 
long and narrow and runs up into the throat. It contains more 
membrane than the heart sweetbread and is not so desirable. 

The pancreas, known as the stom.ach sweetbread, is often 
substituted for the true sweetbreads. It is more compact and 
not so delicate as true sweetbreads. Calves' brains are also often 
substituted for sweetbreads. Pork sweetbreads are sometimes 
substituted for calves sweetbreads but they are coarse, dark, and 
undesirable. 

Sweetbreads are in season in the spring and summer when 
veal is most abundant. Though they can be obtained at other 
seasons they are usually not so good. 

The sweetbreads are removed frcm the veal before it is cut 
up. If they are not to be used at once they are placed in cold 
storage. 

Sweetbreads should be white, firm, and plump. Those from 
the milk-fed calf are best. If dark, flabby, and tough the sweet- 
breads have been taken from an improperly fed animal. 

Sweetbreads are cheapest in the summer time. In some mar- 
kets they are sold by the pair but they are frequently sold by the 
pound. 

Sweetbreads are cellular organs, much more delicate than 
the muscle fiber. The connective tissue which surrounds them 
can be easily removed after they are parboiled and the sweet- 
bread is readily divided into sections. 

Sweetbreads should be parboiled as soon as they come from 
the market; they may then be kept from 30 to 40 hours if kept 
very cold. 



166 



Before cooking it is always necessary to soak sweetbreads 
one-half to one hour in cold water in order to draw out all the 
blood which may darken them when cooked. The pipes, fat, 
and all bruised portions must be cut away before cooking. 

To parboil sweetbreads plunge them in boiling water and 
boil gently 15 to 20 minutes. 

In order to blanch sweetbreads more perfectly a little lemon 
juice or vinegar is often added to the water in parboiling. 

Onions and spices are sometimes added to the water in 
parboiling to improve the flavor. 

After parboiling, the sweetbreads should be plunged in cold 
water to quickly cool so that they will be firm. 

The methods of cooking sweetbreads are creaming, broiling, 
breading and frying, baking, and parboiling for use in salads. 

Sometimes the sweetbreads are left in the breast and cooked 
with the roast of veal. 

The delicate flavor of the sweetbreads must always be 
borne in mind in cooking and seasoning them. 

Sweetbreads are among the most easily digested foods. 
Their digestion takes place very quickly because the connective 
tissue which they contain is readily dissolved in the stomach. 
As the gland itself contains some digestive ferment, sweetbreads 
may be said to be partly self -digesting. 

While sweetbreads may be classed with meats among the 
protein foods they are not so stimulating as meats because 
they are lacking in extractives. 

Because of the ease with which sweetbreads can be di- 
gested and because of their high nutritive value they are a 
valuable dish in the diet of a convalescent. 

To Cook Sweetbreads 

Remove sweetbreads from paper at once, soak in cold 
water 30 minutes and parboil 20 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon salt 



167 



5 minutes before they are done. Put them in cold water for 
15 minutes, then remove the tough portions. Broil, fry, cream, 
or use the boiled sweetbreads in salads as desired. 

Creamed S'weetbreads 

1 pound or 1 pair of sweetbreads, boiled. 

5 large mushrooms (half as many canned mush- 
rooms as there are sweetbreads). 
2 tablespoons butter Cayenne 

2 tablespoons flour White pepper 



teaspoon salt 1 cup cream or milk 



Cut the boiled sweetbreads into small pieces and chop the 
mushrooms fine. Make a white sauce of butter, flour, season- 
ings, and cream. Add the sweetbreads and the mushrooms and 
when hot serve in patty dishes or timbales or on toast. If de- 
sired, the mushrooms may be omitted and twice as many sweet- 
breads used. A few drops of onion juice improve the flavor. 
Serves 8 to 10. 

Calf's Brains 

1 pair calf's brains 2 sprigs thyme 

2 cups water or meat stock 2 tablespoons vinegar 
2 cloves Salt 

2 peppercorns 1 cup white sauce 

y2 teaspoon onion juice 
Soak brains in cold water one half hour. Add to boiling 
water or stock with cloves, peppercorns, thyme, vinegar and 
salt. Simmer gently one half hour. Drain and cool in cold 
water. When cold cut in dice and add to white sauce. Flavor 
with onion juice. Serve on toast. Serves 6 or 8. 

RULES FOR COOKING OVER MEATS 

Meat which is to be cooked over should be carefully 
treated in reheating to prevent it becoming too dry. Water or 
stock must be added to provide moisture. The meat must be 
well-seasoned and attractively garnished to make it appetizing. 



168 



If the meat is to be cut up, all fat, gristle, bone, and skin 
must be carefully removed and the meat evenly chopped or cut 
in uniform pieces of attractive size. 

Cooked over meats should be accompanied by well-seasoned 
sauces. Many attractive entrees can be prepared with cold 
cooked meat as a basis. 

All small pieces of cooked meat should be saved, and 
utilized in this way or added with the bone, skin, and gristle, to 
the stock pot. All fat should be utilized for drippings or for 
soap. 

Browned Hash 

1 cup cooked meat, chopped 4 tablespoons fat 

2 cups mashed potato Salt and p)epper 
3^ cup boiling water Chopped parsley 

Onion juice 

Combine all the ingredients in the order given reserving 
one-half of the fat for the frying pan. Turn mixture into the 
hot well-greased frying pan, spread smooth, and cook over 
moderate heat so that it will brown slowly, and not burn. Cook 
y2 hour without stirring, then fold like an omelet, slip from 
the pan and serve on a hot platter. The mixture may be made 
into small cakes ^ inch thick and browned on both sides. 
Serves 6 to 8. 

Note: — Cold boiled potatoes may be chopped and sub- 
stituted for the mashed potatoes. 

Scalloped Meat 

2 cups bread crumbs 3 tablespoons flour 

2 tablespoons butter or 1 ^ teaspoon salt 

other fat ]/% teaspoon pepper 

2 cups cooked meat, chopped 1^ cup hot milk or stock 

3 tablespoons fat Onion juice or parsley 

Prepare a sauce with fat, flour, seasonings, and milk or 
stock. Line a buttered baking dish with 1 cup buttered 



169 



crumbs, mix the meat and sauce, and pour the crumbs over this. 
Cover top with remainder of buttered crumbs and brown in a 
hot oven about 20 minutes. Serves 6 to 8. 

Casserole of Rice and Meat 

2 cups cooked meat 1 tablespoon chopped 

1 teaspoon salt parsley 

^ teaspoon pepper ^ cup fine crumbs 
^ teaspoon onion juice 4 cups cooked rice ( 1 cup 

1 egg uncooked) 

Season the meat and mix with the crumbs and beaten eggs, 
adding enough stock or w^ater to make it pack easily. Line a 
mold or dish with 3 cups rice, fill with the meat, cover with the 
remainder of the rice, cover tightly and steam 45 minutes. 
Serve with tomato sauce. Serves 8 to 10. 

Hash on Toast 

2 tablespoons butter or ^ teaspoon Worcestershire 

other fat sauce 

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup cooked potatoes cut 

Yi teaspoon salt in dice 

Pepper 2 cups meat, cut in dice 

2 cups stock or water 6 slices toast 

Parsley 

Make a brown sauce, heat meat and potatoes in it, and 
serve on toast. Garnish with toast points and parsley. Serves 
6 to 8. 

Ham Puff 

1^ cups chopped ham Salt 

1^ cups mashed potatoes Pepper 

3 tablespoons milk 3 eggs 

Moisten potatoes with enough milk to beat well, add 
chopped ham and yolks of eggs. Season to taste. Add well- 
beaten whites of eggs to mixture. Turn into a buttered baking 



170 



pan, and bake in a hot oven 20 minutes, till nicely puffed and 
brown. Serves 6 to 8. 

POULTRY 

Poultry is the term given to the domestic birds used as 
food and includes fowls and chickens, turkeys, tame ducks and 
geese. A chicken which is more than one year old is known as 
a fowl. A chicken which is not more than five months old is 
known as a "spring chicken." 

Fowls are always in market but are cheapest through the 
winter when they are not laying eggs. Chickens (spring) are in 
market through the summer and fall. 

A chicken is known by the soft feet, smooth skin, and soft 
cartilage at the end of the breast bone. An abundance of fine 
feathers indicates a young bird, while the presence of long 
hairs denotes age. In a fowl the feet have become hard and dry 
wdth coarse scales, and the cartilage at the end of the breast- 
bone is ossified. 

In fowls which have been picked without scalding the skin 
is in much better condition. 

The flesh of chickens, fowls, and turkeys has a short fiber 
and is not intermingled with fat. The fat is always found under 
the skin in layers or in masses surrounding the intestines. The 
breast meat in fowls and turkeys has a short, tender fiber, the 
meat on the legs is darker and has more flavor. The meat of 
fowls has more flavor than that of young chickens. 

Poultry that is to be kept for some time should first be 
drawn and cleaned and kept very cold. After having been 
frozen the flesh loses flavor and spoils very rapidly when thawed. 

Young chickens are broiled and fried; fowls are stewed, 
braized and roasted. Poultry is very nutritious and is easily 
digested if not too fat. The white meat is especially easy of 
digestion. 



171 



To Dress and Clean Poultry 

Singe the fowl to remove long hairs by holding over a flame 
from gas, alcohol, or burning paper. Cut off the head, turn 
back the skin and cut the neck off quite close; take out the 
wind pipe and crop, cutting off close to the body. Cut through 
the skin around the leg Vz inch below the leg joint, take out 
the tendons, and separate the leg at the joint; in old birds each 
tendon must be removed separately by using a skewer. Remove 
pin feathers with the point of a knife. Remove oil-bag from the 
tail. To remove the internal organs make an opening under 
one of the legs, or at the vent, and remove them carefully, leav- 
ing a strip of skin above the vent. The intestines, gizzard, 
heart and liver should all be removed together; care must be 
taken that the gall bladder, which lies under the liver, be not 
broken; it must be carefully cut away from the liver. The 
lungs and the kidneys lying in the hollows of the backbone must 
be carefully removed. Press the heart to extract any blood. 
Take off the outer coat of the gizzard, and discard the sack 
within. The gizzard, heart, and liver constitute the giblets, 
and can be used for making grav}\ Wash the giblets, put the 
heart and gizzard in cold water, heat quickly, and cook slowly 
1 hour, then add the liver and cook until all are tender, about ^ 
hour longer. Cleanse the fowl by wiping thoroughly inside 
and out with a damp cloth. Stuff and truss for roasting, or cut 
into pieces for stew or fricassee. 

Roast Fowl 

After a fowl has been dressed and cleaned fill with stuffing, 
truss securely in compact shape, and lay on its back on a rack 
in a roasting pan. Dredge with flour, salt, and pepper, dot 
with bits of butter and place in a hot oven. As soon as the 
flour is browned, begin to baste with a cup of hot water, and 2 
tablespoons fat, and baste every 10 minutes. 



172 



Cook until breast is tender — 1^ hours for a four-pound 
fowl. For a large fowl or an old fowl, the time must be in- 
creased. 

Stuffing for Roast Fowl 

4 cups bread crumbs ^ cup melted butter or 

2 teaspoons salt other fat 

. ^ teaspoon pepper % cup boiling water 

1 teaspoon poultry seasoning 1 egg, (if desired) 
Mix in the order given, combine thoroughly and use to 
stuff fowls and turkeys. If a dry, crumbly dressing is desired 
omit the boiling water. The addition of the egg makes a 
richer dressing. 

To Carve a Fowl 

The first requisite in successful carving of a fowl is that 
the carver have a knowledge of the location of all the bones and 
joints. A sharp carving knife is an absolute necessity. 

It is desirable to have an extra plate, and fork at the carver's 
place, the plate to hold the joints as they are removed, the 
fork to use in dividing the joints. 

When sent to the table the fowl should be on its back on 
the platter with the legs at the right hand of the carver. 

The first thing to be done is to put the carving fork in the 
breast, just a little below the point of the breast, pressing it 
down firmly so that the tines are on either side of the breast 
bone just above the wish-bone. The fork must be held there 
all through the carving and the fowl must not be moved. 

There is a rule that the wings of a. bird which flies must 
be removed first, the legs of a bird that walks. Remove both 
joints on one side first. 

To Remove Leg — Holding the fork in the left hand, press 
back the leg on the nearer side of the body, then cut down 
through the skin and joint right across the joint so that some 
meat will be left on the hip bone. 



173 



To Remove Wing — Cut through the joint taking same 
white meat from the breast with the wing. Then if there are 
many persons to be served so that the greater part of the fowl 
will be needed, remove the leg and the wing on the farther side. 

Carve the white meat on the breast, slicing it off carefully 
in thin cross slices; when down almost to the breast bone, dis- 
joint and remove the wish-bone with the remaining white meat. 

Turn the body to one side, cut off the dark meat left at the 
base of the leg joint, then cut out the oyster, a choice piece of 
dark meat on the lower side part of the back and close to 
either side of the backbone. With it remove the skin and meat 
from the shoulder blade. 

Then at last remove the fork and separate the pieces which 
lie along the side of the breast bone where the fork has been 
held. 

Open the front of the fowl so that the dressing can be re- 
moved with a spoon. 

To Separate the Joints — Separate the second joint from the 
drum-stick. Notice the W'hite mark where the fibers join at the 
joint (for they run in distinctly different directions) and cut 
through the mark right between the bones that meet at the joint. 

Small pieces of meat may be removed from the side of. the 
second joint. The second joint is considered the most juicy and 
best flavored cut in the fowl. 

The meat may be carefully cut from the drum stick and it 
will then be more enjoyed. If the tendons have been removed, 
the meat on the drum stick is very good. 

Serve the cuts as attractively as possible, particularly if 
the meat is served cold. Lay the pieces skin side up. In 
serving put pieces of both light and dark meat on each plate. 

To Cut up a Fowl for Stew, Fricassee or Frying 

After singeing the fowl and removing the head, feet, and 
oil sack, cut off the legs, and separate at the joint into drum 



174 



sticks and second joint. Cut off the wings and separate them at 
the middle joint. Separate the body by cutting carefully between 
the breast and the back through the ends of the ribs on either 
side. Disjoint the neck-piece from the breast. Separate the neck- 
piece from the end of the back and carefully lift out all the en- 
trails lying in the back. Remove the kidneys from the back 
and the lungs from the neck-piece, and wash these two cuts 
thoroughly. 

Separate the wish-bone, with the meat that is on it, from 
the breast. Cut the breast across in two pieces with the cleaver. 
This will give thirteen cuts. If the breast is large it may be 
further divided. The neck may be cooked with the giblets and 
used in making gravy. 

Cuts of Fowl 

2 drum sticks 1 end of neck 

2 second joints of legs 2 cuts of breast 

2 wings 1 wishbone piece 

2 second joints of wings 1 gizzard 

1 back 1 heart 

1 neck piece 1 liver 

Stewed Fowl 

After cleaning and cutting up the fowl, cover pieces with 
boiling water, and cook rapidly 15 minutes. Then add 1 table- 
spoon salt, and cook at low temperature until tender, 1^ 
hours or more. 

Fricasseed Chicken 

1 stewed fowl 1 pint stock or more 

2 tablespoons fat 2 egg yolks 

^ cup flour 2 tablespoons chopped 

1 teaspoon salt parsley 

ys teaspoon pepper 
When fowl is tender remove fat and take stock from kettle. 
Heat fat, add flour and seasonings, then add hot stock slowly. 



175 



Cook until smooth and thickened, then pour on two well- 
beaten egg yolks, add chopped parsley, and pour over fowl 
which has been attractively arranged on a hot platter. 

To arrange bird on platter lay neck, breast, and back in 
center in order. On the sides of the breast, lay cuts of wings, 
on the sides of the back lay drum sticks and second joints. 
Lay giblets between wings and second joints. Serves 6 to 10. 

Chicken Croquettes 

3y2 cups chopped chicken 2 teaspoons lemon juice 

^2 teaspoon onion juice 1 recipe thick white sauce 

1 tablespoon parsley 

Thick White Sauce 

^ cup butter ^ teaspoon white pepper 

y^ cup flour 1 teaspoon celery salt 

1^ teaspoons salt 1 pint scalded milk or cream 

Cayenne 
Chop the chicken very fine after picking it over carefully to 
remove all skin, fat, and gristle. Add seasonings. 

Prepare the thick white sauce, then add the chopped and 
seasoned chicken. It should make the mixture of such a con- 
sistency that it can be handled. Spread on a shallow, buttered 
plate to cool, then shape into pyramids. Crumb, egg, and crumb. 
Cook in deep fat one minute to browTi, and drain on unglazed 
paper. Serve hot with a garnish of parsley. See — Cooking in 
fats. 

Croquettes may be prepared in the same manner with other 
meats. Serves 12 to 16. 

Creamed Chicken 

ly^ cup cold cooked chicken % teaspoon celery salt 

diced A few drops onion juice 

1 cup cream sauce 



176 



2 tablespoons butter White pepper 

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup thin cream 

^ teaspoon salt 
Add diced chicken and seasonings to cream sauce; when 
well heated, serve in timbale cases or patty shells or on toast. 
Serves 6. 

Creamed Chicken, Baked 

1 fowl ( 4>^ -6 lbs. ) White pepper 

4 sweetbreads - 6 tablespoons flour 

1 can mushrooms 1 quart cream, or rich milk 

4 tablespoons butter ^ onion grated 

1 teaspoon salt 2 cups buttered crumbs 

Stew the fowl till very tender and pick meat over carefully, 
removing all skin, bone, and gristle. Cut in dice. 

Boil sweetbreads, pick over carefully and cut in dice. 
Quarter the mushrooms. Make a cream sauce with butter, 
flour, seasonings, and cream, add onions and chicken, mush- 
rooms and sweetbreads. 

Turn into buttered baking dish, cover with buttered crumbs, 
and bake in a hot oven 20 minutes, till a golden brown. Serves 
16 to 20. 

Roast Duck 
Select a young, fat duck. The lower part of the legs and 
webbing of the feet should be soft. Singe and draw the duck 
in the same manner as a chicken. Wipe it inside and outside 
with a damp cloth. Weigh. Fill with potato or bread stuffing. 
Truss in the same way as a chicken. Place on a rack in a 
baking pan, cover the breast with slices of bacon, and put ^ 
cup water and ^^ teaspoon salt in the pan. Bake in a hot 
oven, allowing 20 minutes for every pound and 20 minutes 
over. Serve with giblet sauce. Serves 6 to 8. 



177 



Roast Goose 

Follow directions for roast duck. 

Potato Stuffing for Roast Duck or Goose 

4 cups hot mashed potato 2 tablespoons butter 

(10 potatoes) 2 egg yolks 

2 teaspoons onion juice ^ cup cream 

2 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon parsley 

yl teaspoon pepper 
I\Iix the onion juice, pepper, salt, and butter with the po- 
tato. Add the cream to the beaten yolks and mix them with the 
potato. Add the parsley. Use to stuff duck or goose. Or turn 
into a buttered dish, bake until brown on top, and serve with 
roast duck or fowl. 

Giblet Gravy for Roast Duck or Goose 

2 tablespoons fat from bak- % teaspoon salt 

ing pan Pepper 

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup giblet stock 

Giblets 
Put the heart and gizzard in sauce pan and cover with 
cold water. Cook slowly until nearly tender, then add liver 
and continue cooking. When tender, drain and chop fine. 
Make a brown sauce of the fat, flour, salt, pepper, and stock, 
add chopped giblets and when hot serve with duck or goose. 
Serves 6 to 8. 



FISH 

The flesh of fish is used for food; the caviar, which is the 
salted roe or spawn of the sturgeon, shad roe, and the coral or 
ovaries of lobsters are all considered delicacies. 

The season for fish varies with different kinds. All fish are 
best before spawning, as during the spawning season the flesh 
grows poor and flabby. The season for catching fish is de- 
termined by law in order to avoid their extermination. 

Fish is cheapest when in season and near the source of 
supply. It is sold by the pound or by the whole fish or in cutlets. 

The flesh of fish is made up of little fine flakes with con- 
nective tissue bindings that gelatinize very easily, hence fall 
apart when cooked. 

Preparation and Cooking — Fish should be perfectly fresh; 
flesh firm and elastic; eyes bright; and odor good. 

Keep fish cold until used, in a covered pail near the ice 
covered. If fish is frozen, thaw, just before using, by placing in 
or with chopped ice, never with the other food unless tightly 
in cold water. 

Cover board or table with newspaper before laying fish 
down. Remove scales by running a dull knife from tail to 
head, snapping scales off. Wet hands before touching fish, 
and odor will come off more easily. Dip hands in salt so that 
fish will not slip, and hold by the tail. 

If inner organs have not been removed in market, make a 
short incision in belly, draw them out carefully so that the mem- 
brane which lines the cavity is not broken. 

Remove head, if desired; if left on, cut out eyes. 

Remove fins with scissors. Cleanse inside and out with 
cloth wet in salted water. 

Sprinkle fish with salt if to be kept over night. 

Handle fish carefully when cooking, as flesh falls apart 

178 



179 



easily, and have all utensils well-greased, as skin sticks readily 
when heated. 

\Mien fish is cooked the flesh separates from the bone. 

Cold cooked fish may be used in various ways as creamed, 
scalloped, scuffled, etc. It must be carefully picked over, all 
skin and bone removed, and flaked with a silver fork. 

Serving — The seasoning and garnishing of fish are impor- 
tant because fish is lacking in extractives and flavor and is of 
so alkalin a nature. Acid accompaniments, sauces, or stuffings 
are used with fish. A rich stuflmg is desirable wdth dry fish. 
Potato in some form is usually served with fish. 

Boiled fish is spread with butter and lemon juice, and 
served with a garnish of lemon slices, hard cooked eggs, parsley, 
and potatoes. Baked fish is served with tomato sauce or drawn 
butter sauce. 

Baked fish is carved by running the knife down along the 
back bone, slicing pieces to the bone, and lifting the meat off. 

Boiled or steamed fish is served with sliced lemon, sliced 
eggs, parsley sprays and chopped parsley and is accompanied 
by Hollandaise sauce or drawn butter sauce. 

Broiled Fish 

Clean the fish, cut in pieces, lay on a well-greased broiler. 
If the fish is dry, rub it with melted butter before placing it on 
the broiler. Sear the flesh side first, then turn every ten seconds. 
The length of time for cooking depends on thickness of the fish 
— 20 to 30 minutes. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. 

Baked Fish 

Clean the fish, sprinkle wath salt, and fill with stuffing, 
sew or skewer the edges together. Cut gashes on each side 
across the fish, and put strips of salt pork into them. Fold a 
piece of well-buttered paper about the tail. Grease the baking 
sheet and place the fish on it, dredge with flour, salt and pepper, 



180 



put the sheet into a baking pan with pieces of pork fat. Place 
in a hot oven. Baste every 10 minutes. Cook 15 minutes to 
the pound, and 15 minutes over. Add water to the pan if 
necessary. 

Stuffing for Fish 

2 cups stale bread crumbs 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 

3^ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon capers or 

ys teaspoon white pepper chopped pickle 

Cayenne 54 cup melted butter 

1 teaspoon onion juice 

Mix in the order given. 

Steamed or Boiled Fish 

Clean the fish, lay on a buttered plate in a steamer over 
gently-boiling water; or place it in a piece' of muslin, sew or tie 
the edges together, and put the fish into boiling water, boil 5 
minutes, then add 1 tablespoon salt and cook at a lower tem- 
perature until done. Boil or steam 20 minutes to the pound. 
Serve with sauce. 

Fried Fish 

Clean the fish, cut in fillets, season with salt and pepper, 
and cover with corn meal and flour (mixed in equal parts), or 
fine bread crumbs, and egg. Cook in deep fat or saute. Drain 
on paper. See Directions for Cooking in Deep Fat. • 

Planked Fish 

Clean the fish well. Split down the back, removing the 
backbone. Wipe dry. Rub a fish plank well with salt and heat 
it very hot in the oven. Dredge the fish with salt and pepper. 
Spread the fish open, skin side down on the board. Overlap 
the thin flesh of the back. Nail the four ends to the board. 
Baste with melted butter. Put under the gas in the broiler. 
Have the burner turned on full; when the fish is a good brown 
lower the blaze and cook the fish slowly one-half hour. When 



181 



the fish is cooked spread with butter; garnish the board with 
a potato border. Brown the potatoes in the oven. Garnish 
with sliced lemon and parsley. Serve at once. 

Fish Souffle 

2 tablespoons butter ^ cup milk 

or other fat 3 eggs 

3 tablespoons flour 1 cup cold cooked fish, 
^2 teaspoon salt flaked 

Cayenne 
Heat the butter, add the flour and stir until smooth; add 
the milk and seasonings, cook 2 minutes, remove to the back of 
the stove, and add the well-beaten yolks and fish. Set away to 
cool, and when cold, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a 
stifl' froth, then turn into a buttered dish and bake from 20 to 25 
minutes. Serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8. 

Scalloped Fish 

2 cups flaked fish ^ teaspoon salt 

2 cups buttered crumbs ^ teaspoon pepper 

3 tablespoons butter Onion juice or parsley 
3 tablespoons flour 1^ cups hot milk 

Put half the crumbs in a baking dish. Make a white 
sauce of the butter, flour, seasonings, and milk. Add the fish 
and onion juice or parsley, pour this into the dish, cover with 
the remainder of the crumbs, and brown in a hot oven about 
20 minutes. Serves 8 to 10. 

Creamed Codfish 

2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour 

^ pound fish ( 1 pint 1 pint milk 

shredded) 1 egg 

Soak the fish, if very salt, at least 1 hour. Drain and 
shred. Brown the fish in butter and add the flour and milk 
very slowly. Beat the egg, add a little hot liquid, then add 



182 



this to the fish. Cook 1 minute and serve. Or cover with 
buttered crumbs and bake in oven. Serves 6 to 8. 

Codfish Balls 

1 cup salt cod fish ^ tablespoon butter 

2y2 cups potatoes ^ teaspoon pepper 

legg 

Wash the fish in cold water and pull into small pieces. 
Wash and pare the potatoes and cut in pieces. Cook the fish 
and potatoes together in boiling water until the potatoes are 
soft, then drain and shake over the fire until dry; mash with 
a wire potato-masher, add the beaten egg, butter and pepper, 
and salt if needed, and beat until light. Take up the mixture 
in a spoon, mould slightly with a knife and slip into deep, hot 
fat. Fry until brown, about 1 minute. Drain on unglazed 
paper. See — Cooking in fats. 

The mixture for cod-fish balls may be served hot, without 
frying, or turned into a buttered baking dish and browned in 
the oven and served as a baked dish. Serves 6 to 8. 

Salmon Loaf 

1 can salmon 4 tablespoons butter 
4 eggs J/'2 cup bread crumbs 

Pepper and salt 

Pick the salmon into small bits, add the eggs, well beaten, 
buttered crumbs and seasonings. Put into a buttered mould, 
cover and steam 1 hour. Serves 8. 

Sauce 

2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon catsup 
2 tablespoons flour Juice from fish 

1 cup milk Yolk of one egg 

2 tablespoons lemon juice 
Melt the butter, add the flour, then the milk gradually. 
Add the catsup and just before serving beat into the yolk of egg. 



18. 



Salmon Croquettes (or other Fish) 

2 cups or 1 can salmon Cayenne 

1 cup milk, scalded 1 tablespoon parsley 

3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon lemon juice 
3 tablespoons flour 2 eggs for dipping 

1 teaspoon salt Dried bread crumbs 
Make a white sauce with the butter, flour, seasonings, and 

hot milk. Add the parsley, lemon juice, and finely-flaked fish. 
Spread the mixture on a buttered platter to cool. Shape into 
croquettes. Crumb, egg, and crumb. Fry in deep fat. Drain 
on unglazed paper. Serve hot with sauce tartare. 

Scalloped Salmon 

2 cups bread crumbs 3 hard cooked eggs 

2 tablespoons butter 2 cups white sauce 
1 can salmon 

White Sauce 

3 tablespoons butter % teaspoon cayenne 
3 tablespoons flour Sprinkle of mace 
1 teaspoon salt 2 cups hot milk 

Butter and season the bread crumbs. Break the salmon up 
with a fork. Line a buttered baking dish with ^ the crumbs, 
then add a layer of salmon, eggs, and white sauce; add another 
fourth of the crumbs and another layer of the other food mater- 
ials. Cover with crumbs and bake in a moderate oven until a 
golden bro\\Ti, about 20 minutes. Serves 6 or 8. 

Casserole of Rice and Salmon 

Follow the recipe for Casserole of Rice and Meat, substi- 
tuting 2 cups flaked salmon for the meat. Serve the salmon with 
tomato or white sauce. Serves 8 to 10. 

OYSTERS 

Oysters are in season from September to May — through the 
months containing "r." In the summer months the oysters are 
spawning and are not considered good. 



1S4 



Oysters are often "fattened" or "'soaked"" in fresh water 
before being sent to market. This involves a loss in nutritive 
value. Along the coast oysters are sold in the shell. For ship- 
ping some distance the shells are usually opened and the oysters 
packed in bulk, sealed and surrounded by ice for shipping. 
Some are packed in tin boxes. Oysters must always be kept 
vei}' cold. 

The oysters are always considered best if bought in the 
shell where it is possible to obtain them in that way. Blue 
points are a small oyster raised on Long Island, thought to have 
an especially nne navor. Bulk oysters are good for stews, 
scallops, and creamed oysters. Select oysters, those large in 
size, are best for fr}"ing. 

The oyster consists of a soft portion or body which is 
principally the liver (glycogen) and a tough portion, or muscle, 
and is surrounded by gills. The entire body is used for food. 

After oysters have been removed from the shell, they 
should always be carefully picked over to remove any small 
pieces of shell and should be well-washed. If the juice is to be 
ser\-ed, it should be strained through a cheese cloth. 

Purpose of cooking oysters: 

1 To make them mere attractive. 

2 To develop flavor. 

3 To make them more wholesone. 

Methods of cooking include broiling, pan-broiling, frying, 
stewing, creaming, scalloping. 

Oysters should be cooked a ver}- few minutes. Test — when 
the body looks plump and the edges curl. If oysters are cooked 
too long, the flavor is lost and the muscle becomes tough. 

Appropriate garnishes for oysters are lemon, parsley, cel- 
er}-. and such relishes as catsup and horse-radish. 



185 

Fricasseed Oysters 

2 tablespoons butter Cayenne 

1 teaspoon salt 1 pint or 30 oysters 

3^ teaspoon white pepper 
Place all the ingredients, except the oysters, in a chafing 
dish or covered sauce-pan. When hot add the oysters, cover 
and shake the pan occasionally. When the oysters are plump 
and edges curl, drain them and place them where they will 
keep hot. Add enough cream to the liquid in the pan to make 
1 cup and use this for the sauce. 

Sauce 

2 tablespoons butter 1 cup cream and oyster 

3 tablespoons flour liquid 

Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon lemon juice 

1 egg 

Cook the ingredients, except the egg and lemon juice, as 
a white sauce. Beat the egg until light, and pour the hot 
sauce gradually over it. Add the oysters and lemon juice, and 
when hot serve on toast or in patty-dishes. Serves 6 to 8. 

Broiled Oysters 

30 oysters ^ cup cream or milk 

1^ tablespoons butter ;^ cup oyster juice 

1^ tablespoons flour Salt and pepper 

6 slices of toast 
W^ash, drain, and dry the oysters. Grease a griddle or 
oyster broiler with 1 teaspoon butter. W'hen hot put in oysters 
and turn when the edges curl. Remove the oysters to a hot 
plate, melt remainder of butter, add flour and seasonings and 
then liquid. When well-cooked add oysters. Serve hot on 
toast. 

Fried Oysters 

Large Oysters Dried bread crumbs (sifted and 
Egg seasoned) 

Fat for frying (lard and beef 
drippings) 



186 



Select large oysters, remove pieces of shell, wash, and wipe 
them dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in bread crumbs and 
flour, dip in egg (beaten with 1 tablespoon water or oyster 
juice), and again in crumbs. Fry in deep fat 1 minute, drain, 
garnish and serve. 

Scalloped Oysters 

1 pint or 30 oysters Cayenne 

3 cups bread crumbs 3 tablespoons butter 

Yz teaspoon salt ^ cup oyster juice 

Wash the oysters v/ith cold water in a colander, and re- 
move pieces of shell with the fingers. Strain the juice, which is 
to be used, through a cheesecloth. 

Melt the butter, add the crumbs and seasonings. 

Line the bottom of a buttered baking dish with ^ the 
crumbs and then add ^2 the oysters. 

Add ^ more crumbs and the remainder of the oysters and 
the oyster juice. Cover with the buttered crumbs. Bake in a 
moderate oven 30 to 40 minutes. 

If baked in individual dishes, 4 cups crumbs and 4 tea- 
spoons butter should be used and the oysters should be cut up. 
Bake 15 minutes. Serves 6 or 8. 



COOKING IN FATS 

Fats are considered a desirable medium for cooking some 
foods because they can be heated to so high a temperature and 
cook the food very quickly. When cooked in fats some foods 
develop special flavors and a peculiar palatability. 

Methods of cooking in fats include sauteing — cooking in a 
small amount of fat; and frying — cooking by means of immer- 
sion in deep fat at a temperature of 350 to 400 degrees. 

Salad oil, lard, and beef drippings are excellent fats for 
cooking, and there are many good cooking fats on the market 
that are made of a combination of vegetable and animal fats. 
Fats are an expensive food for cooking purposes, but there is 
a wide range in the prices for which they can be obtained. The 
housekeeper should know all the cooking fats obtainable and 
she should keep informed as to the local prices. 

Necessary Utensils for Deep Fat Frying Include: — 

1 An iron frying kettle of good depth so that fat will 
not easily bubble over. The kettle should never be filled within 
more than two inches of the top. A Scotch bowl is excellent 
because it can be easily handled and, because of its rounding 
base, so large an amount of fat is not required to fill it. 

2 A frying basket to hold articles when placed in kettle 
so that they will not be broken up. 

3 A long fork with which to handle basket. Or, a flat 
wire egg beater can be used in place of the basket and long fork. 

4 Unglazed absorbent paper for draining. 

Changes in Fat When Heated 

When fat is heated it bubbles because of water present, 
which passes off as steam when it reaches a temperature of 212 
degrees. The fat grows but little hotter until the water is all 
evaporated, then it becomes quiescent, temperature rises rapidly, 

187 



188 



a faint blue smoke is given off of some fats, then heavy fumes 
arise and finally the fat boils at a temperature of about 600 
degrees. The fat is hot enough for most cooking purposes when 
the faint blue smoke begins to rise, but for deep fat frying 
definite tests must be used. See "Tests for Temperature" given 
below. 

In cooking, the boiling point of fats is never used. Most 
animal fats are broken up before the boiling point is reached 
and the substances associated with the fats, or cooked in them, 
would be burned at a temperature even lower than the 
boiling point. 

Temperature for Frying 

The fat must be hot enough to form a crust quickly on 
the articles to be fried so that the food will not absorb fat. 
This temperature must be varied for different substances in 
accordance with the length of time which it is necessary to 
cook them through. 

Tests for Temperature 

When water has all been evaporated from fat and bubbling 
has entirely ceased, watch carefully for a faint blue smoke. 
Then test by dropping in a small cube of bread or a little of the 
food material that is to be fried. 

If one can count 60 seconds while the bread is browning 
the fat is hot enough for uncooked mixtures such as potatoes, 
doughnuts, fritters, etc. 

If one can count 40 seconds while the bread is browning 
the fat is hot enough for all previously cooked mixtures, such 
as croquettes, fish balls, etc., that will be quickly cooked. 

If one can count 20 seconds while the bread is browning 
the fat is hot enough for oysters and other foods that are to be 
cooked very quickly. 



189 



During the time of counting the bread should become a 
golden brown. 

If a black smoke comes from the fat it is too hot. 
Method of Frying 

The articles to be fried should be warm and dry and only 
a few should be put in the fat at a time. 

\Mien the fat is at the proper temperature slip a few of 
the articles to be fried carefully into the kettle. Stir or turn if 
necessary and cook until the crust is a golden brown, and the 
mixture has had time to cook through to the center; then re- 
move from the fat. 

When cooked, drain the articles a few minutes directly 
over the kettle, then lay on unglazed paper, so that fat which 
adheres to the article wall be absorbed by the paper. Reheat 
fat before adding another quantity of food to be fried. 

Time Table for Frying 

Breaded Chops 5 to 8 min. Fritters 3 to 5 min. 

Croquettes 1 min. Oysters 1 min. 

Doughnuts 3 to 5 min. Potatoes, raw 4 to 8 min. 

Fish Balls 1 min. 

Many kinds of food may be fried in the same fat. Each 

time after using clarify the fat, chill, and keep for future use. 

Use new fat for potatoes first, then flour mixtures and crumbed 

articles, and lastly for fish foods. When fat has grown so 

dark that it is no longer good for frying, it can be utilized in 

making soap. 

Fat burns so readily that special precautions must be ob- 
served in handling it so that it does not come in contact with 
the flame. 

If the fat bubbles over on the stove it should be quickly 
wiped off with newspaper. 

If the fat should take fire, cover it quickly with ashes or 
sprinkle salt on it. 



190 



Egging and Crumbing 

Many foods do not become covered with a crust when 
subjected to high heat in deep fat. Such foods must have some 
egg added to the mixture or be coated with a substance which 
forms a crust quickly. For this reason foods are dipped into 
bread crumbs and eggs, a method known as egging and crumb- 
ing. 

Dried crumbs are prepared from crusts and from small 
pieces of hard bread dried in a very moderate oven until a 
light brown. Roll them on a pastry board, or put them through 
a meat grinder. Sift the crumbs. Keep dried crumbs in jars, 
tie pieces of muslin over jars and keep in a dry place. Use 
them to cover articles of food to be cooked in deep fat. For 
savory dishes it is well to season crumbs with salt and pepper. 

Steps in egging and crumbing: 

1 Dip article into seasoned dried bread crumbs, flour, or 
corn meal, covering it entirely with crumbs. 

2 Dip into egg which has been slightly beaten with 1 
tablespoon water, milk, or oyster juice (for fried oysters). 

3 Dip again into seasoned bread, crumbs. 

Reasons for steps in egging and crumbing for deep fat 
frying: 

The article is dipped into bread crumbs 

1 To make the surface dry. 

2 To cause the egg to adhere. 
The article is dipped into egg 

1 To cause a crust to form on the surface. 

2 To prevent fat soaking in. 

Water is added to the egg(l tablespoon to each egg) 

1 To prevent its becoming dry and stringy. 

2 To prevent cracking of the crust. 
The egg is beaten slightly 

1 To mix it well and break up the membrane. 



191 



2 To avoid large bubbles in cooking, as they might 
crack and admit fat. 
The article is dipped in crumbs the second time 

1 To make the surface dry so that the fat will not 
bubble so vigorously. 

2 To improve appearance and flavor of the crust. 

Croquettes 

Croquettes are an attractive form in which to serve left- 
overs. They are used for a luncheon dish or as an entree at 
dinner. 

The ingredients used in croquettes are usually already 
cooked and are finely cut up. They are well-seasoned and are 
bound together with egg, softened bread crumbs, or a thick 
white sauce made of 2 tablespoons butter, 4 tablespoons flour, 
and 1 cup milk. 

The materials which may serve as a foundation are: — 
Meat — Chicken, Veal, Beef. 
Fish — Salmon, Lobster, Cod, Oysters. 
Vegetable — Macaroni, Potato, Squash, Parsnips. 
Cereal — Rice, Farina. 
Fruit — Banana, Apple. 
Egg — Hard cooked, creamed, stuffed. 
Cheese — With butter, with eggs, with white sauce. 
The processes involved in making croquettes are mixing, 
seasoning and binding materials; chilling; shaping — round for 
cereals, cylindrical for potatoes, pyramid for meats; crumbing, 
egging and crumbing; frying and draining. See — Directions for 
cooking in deep fat. 

Croquettes may be served with a garnish of parsley, peas, 
or with sauces — white sauce, tomato sauce, brown sauce, mush- 
room sauce, or with sweet sauce for fruit croquettes. 
See recipes for croquettes. 



BATTERS AND DOUGHS 

Batters and doughs are mixtures of flour or meal and a 
liquid, with salt and sugar to give flavor, butter to make ten- 
der, and air or gas to make light. Doughs are thicker than 
batters. 

Flour and water mixed and cooked make a hard mass. 
Air or gas can be introduced and the mixture quickly cooked 
before the bubbles break and the resulting cooked dish will 
be light and porous, because of the elastic nature of the flour 
and its tendency to become firm when exposed to high heat. 
The air and gas both expand when heated at the temperature 
of the oven to about three times their volume, and if properly 
baked the cooked dish is very light. 

Methods of entangling air in a batter: 

1 By beating the batter. Examples — Pop-overs, cream 
puffs, beaten biscuits. 

2 By kneading the batter. Examples — Bread. and rolls. 

3 By adding well-beaten eggs. Examples — Pop-overs, 
muffins, cakes. (One or two eggs are sufficient to 
make one cup flour light in a thin batter, 6 eggs are 
necessary for 1 cup flour if no other liquid is used.) 

Methods of Entangling Gas in a Batter: 
1 By using an alkali with an acid. 

a Soda with sour milk. (1 teaspoon soda to 1 pint 

sour milk.) 
b Soda with molasses. (1 teaspoon soda to 1 cup 

molasses.) 
c Soda with cream of tartar. (1 level teaspoon soda 

to 2 slightly rounding teaspoons cream of tartar.) 
d Soda with dried fruits. (Raisins containing cream 

of tartar.) 
e Soda wdth chocolate (fatty acids). 

192 



193 

2 By the use of yeast. 

The Thickness of Batters and Doughs 

1 A thin or pour batter is of the cc^nsistency of thin cream 
and pours readily. 

Proportion — 1 measure flour to 1 measure liquid (scant). 
Example — Pop-overs, griddle cakes, timbales, etc. 

2 A thick cake, or drop batter is of the consistency of 
thick cream and breaks when poured. 

Proportion — 2 measures flour to 1 measure liquid. Ex- 
ample — Muffins, butter cakes, etc. 

3 A soft or bread dough is stiff enough to be handled 
lightly. 

Proportion — 3 measures flour to 1 measure liquid. Ex- 
ample — Baking powder biscuits, bread, etc. 

4 A stiff or pastry dough is stiff enough to be handled 
easily. 

Proportion — 4 measures flour to 1 measure liquid. Ex- 
ample — Pie crust, cheese straws, noodles, etc. 

Note — Proportions will vary with the kind of flour and 
the liquid used. 

Ways of Combining Ingredients 

1 To stir, merely for the purpose of combining in- 
gredients, means to mix by circular motion with a spoon. 

2 To beat, for the purpose of enclosing air in the mix- 
ture, means turning the ingredients over and over, and draw- 
ing the spoon, fork or beater through from underneath to the 
surface. 

3 To cut and fold, for the purpose of combining in- 
gredients which have already been beaten in such a way as to 
prevent the entangled air from escaping, means cutting through 
and turning over the ingredients with a fork or beater until 
they are thoroughly blended. 



194 



General Directions for Mixing Batters 

1 Have oven at proper temperature, and see that the fire 
is in good condition and well regulated. The oven temperature 
should be about 375 degrees, or test by putting in -a piece of 
white paper or 2 teaspoons flour on a pan. This should become 
a golden brown in from 2 to 5 minutes. 

2 Prepare pans before beginning to measure materials. 
Grease pans with lard, butter, or beef drippings, using a 

soft brush or a piece of paper for that purpose. Heat iron gem 
pans or earthen cups before filling. 
Pans are greased 

a To keep batter from sticking, 
b To add flavor to the crust. 
. c To help cook the crust. 

3 Have all materials measured and ready before begin- 
ning to combine the ingredients. 

4 Mix and sift all dry ingredients together. 

5 Mix milk and egg yolk. 

6 Add liquids slowly to dry ingredients, stirring and 
beating them well to keep free from lumps. 

7 When perfectly smooth, cut and fold in well-beaten 
whites. 

8 Add melted butter last. 

9 Fill muffin tins only one-third to two-thirds full. 
10 Bake at once. 

Pop-Overs 

1 cup flour y^ cup milk 

^ teaspoon salt ^ teaspoon melted butter 

1 or 2 eggs 

Mix and sift flour and salt. Add yolks of egg to milk 
and add gradually to the flour to obtain a smooth batter. Beat 
3 minutes. Then add well-beaten whites carefully. Add melted 
butter last. Turn into hissing hot gem pans or earthen custard 



195 



cups. Bake 25 to 35 minutes in a hot oven. Serves 8 to 10. 

Or pop-overs may be mixed without separating the eggs, 
beat up slightly, add milk, and then add the liquid gradually 
to flour and salt. Beat batter 3 minutes with dover egg beater. 

Pop-overs are the simplest form of batter and are used as 
a mufhn for breakfast, as an accompaniment to roast beef in 
the form of Yorkshire pudding, and as a simple dessert with 
lemon sauce. 

Graham Pop-Overs 

1 cup milk Yz tablespoon sugar 

1 egg Yz teaspoon salt 

Yz cup Graham flour }^ tablespoon melted fat 

Yz cup white flour 
Beat the egg very light, add the milk and pour the liquid 
slowly onto thee dry ingredients which have been mixed and 
sifted. Beat with an egg beater until bubbles appear on top. 
Add melted fat last. Bake in a moderately hot oven in hot 
well-greased iron gem pans 30 to ?i^ minutes. Makes 8 to 10. 

Noodles 

2 eggs Flour 

Y2 teaspoon salt 

Beat the eggs until light, add salt and sufficient flour 
to make a very stiff dough; knead until smooth, roll thin as 
paper and when partially dry cut in thin strips. Let dry in the 
air. When dry place in a jar covered with cheese-cloth. 
Noodles will keep for several weeks, and may be used in the 
same way as macaroni. Cook in boiling water 30 to 40 minutes 
before adding to the soup. 

BAKING POWDER MIXTURES 

To Prepare Baking Powder Mixtures. 
Pastry flour is best for baking-powder mixtures, and should 
be sifted once before measuring. 



196 



Only standard baking-powders should be used. Use 2 
teaspoons baking powder to 1 cup flour; ^ teaspoon soda| and 
1 teaspoon cream of tartar can be substituted for 2 teaspoons 
baking powder. 

In combining baking-powder mixtures follow general rule 
for mixing batters, being careful to work quickly after baking 
powder has been moistened. 

Baking Powder Biscuits 

2 cups flour 2 tablespoons fat 

4 teaspoons baking powder % to 1 cup milk or water 

1 teaspoon salt 

Mix the dry ingredients, chop fat into the flour with a 
knife, slowly add sufficient milk to make a dough not too soft 
to be handled. Use the knife while combining dough and 
when handling it on the board. Toss and roll dough gently 
on a sligjitly floured board, and cut into small biscuits. Moisten 
tops with a little milk. Handle dough quickly, lightly, and as 
little as possible. Place on a buttered sheet. Bake in a hot 
oven till brown, from 12 to 15 minutes. Either white or whole 
wheat flour may be used for biscuit. Serves 6 to 8. Oven test — 
oven should be hot enough to color a piece of unglazed white 
paper to golden brown in 1 minute. 

Emergency Biscuits 

2 cups flour 2 tablespoons butter or 
4 teaspoons baking powder other fat 

1 teaspoon salt ^ cup milk or water 

Sift dry ingredients twice, cut in fat, add milk gradually. 
Drop mixture into greased muffin tins, brush over with milk, 
and bake in a hot oven 12 minutes. Serves 6 to 8. 



197 



Dumplings 

2 cups flour 2 tablespoons butter or 

4 teaspoons baking powder other fat 

y2 teaspoon salt Ya cup milk or water 

Sift dry ingredients, cut in fat, and add milk gradually. 
Toss onto a floured board, roll out, cut with biscuit cutter, 
place on a buttered plate and put in steamer over boiling water. 
Put cheese cloth under cover of steamer to absorb moisture. 
Cook 12 minutes. 

Dumplings may be cooked by laying them on top of meat 
in stew pan, cover kettle closely, keep stew boiling, and cook 
dumplings twelve minutes, without removing lid. Serves 6 to 8. 

Soda Biscuits 

1 pint flour 2 tablespoons shortening 
^ teaspoon soda (level) (lard or other fat) 
Yo teaspoon salt Yz cup sour milk 

Note : — If the sour milk is not thick enough to clabber, it 
will not contain sufficient acid to neutralize the soda and the 
biscuits will be yellow and bitter. To avoid this, cream of 
tartar can be combined with the soda (1 teaspoon). If there is 
no cream of tartar at hand it will be wise to use the recipe for 
baking powder biscuits. 

Mix and sift the flour, soda and salt. Chop in the fat with 
a knife, then add enough of the sour milk to make a soft dough. 
Toss onto a floured board and roll lightly. Cut out with a 
biscuit cutter and put in a greased pan. Bake 12 to 15 minutes 
in a hot oven. Serves 6 to 8. 

Pin Wheel Biscuits 

2 cups flour Y2 cup sugar 

4 teaspoons baking powder ^ teaspoon cinnamon 
1 teaspoon salt Y2 cup raisins or currants 

1 tablespoon lard or oleo 2 tablespoons butter 

Yz cup milk or less 
Combine the first five ingredients as baking powder bis- 



198 



cuits. Roll ^ inch in thickness, brush with creamed butter and 
sprinkle with }^ cup sugar, ^4 teaspoon cinnamon, and ^ cup 
stoned and chopped raisins. Roll up like a jelly roll, cut off 
% inches at a time and place in a greased pan cut ends up. 
Bake in a hot oven 15 minutes. Serves 6 to 8. 

Hot Cross Buns with Baking Powder 

2 cups flour 2 tablespoons butter 

4 teaspoons baking powder % to 1 cup milk 
Yz teaspoon salt - 1 egg 

34 cup sugar ^ cup currants 

Mix dry ingredients, chop fat into the flour with a knife, 
mix part of the milk with the egg, and slowly add sufficient of 
the liquid to make a dough not too soft to be handled. While 
adding the liquid mix in the currants also. Toss and roll 
dough gently on a slightly floured board, and cut in large rounds. 
Just before baking mark with a cross on top using a sharp knife ; 
brush with beaten egg. Bake 12 to 15 minutes in a moderately 
hot oven. Serves 6 to 8. 

Scones 

2 cups flour ]/x cup sugar 

1 teaspoon cream of tartar ^ cup raisins or currants 
Yz teaspoon soda ^4 cup sour milk 

1 teaspoon salt 2 eggs 

4 tablespoons butter 

Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Chop butter in. Add 
raisins, then egg slightly beaten, then enough sour milk to make 
a soft dough to roll out. 

Divide in 2 pieces, pat each piece into the shape of a round 

ball, flatten into the size of a small tea plate, cut in eighths, lay 

on a buttered baking sheeet, moisten top by brushing with a 

slightly beaten egg, or 2 tablespoons milk and 1 teaspoon sugar. 

Bake quickly 10 to 15 minutes. Serves 16. 



199 

MufBns 

3 cups flour ^ teaspoon salt 

4 teaspoons baking powder 1 ^ cup milk 

^ cup corn meal 2 eggs 
3 teaspoons baking powder 2 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons sugar 

;Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add egg yolks and milk 
beaten together. Cut and fold in well-beaten whites and add 
melted butter last. Bake 20 minutes in buttered gem pans, or 
muffin tins in a hot oven. Serves 16 to 20. 

Corn Muffins 

1 cup flour Yz teaspoon salt 

y2 cup corn meal 1 cup milk 

3 teaspoons baking powder 1 egg 

1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons butter 

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add egg and milk beaten 
together. Add melted butter last. Bake in gem pans or muffin 
tins 25 to 30 minutes. Serves 12 to 16. 

Whole Wheat Muffins 

1 ^ cup whole wheat flour ^ cup sugar 

y2 cup wheat flour 1 egg 

3 teaspoons baking 2 tablespoons butter or 

powder oleomargarine 

Yz teaspoon salt 

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add egg and milk beaten 
together. Add melted butter last. Bake 25 to 30 minutes in 
greased gem pans or muffin tins. Serves 12 to 16. 

Graham Gems 

2 cups graham flour 1 cup milk 
^ cup sugar 1 egg 

^ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon melted butter 

3 teaspoons baking powder or oleomargarine 
Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add egg, well-beaten, and 



200 



melted butter last. Bake in hot, greased gem pans 20 minutes. 
Serves 12 to 16. 

Date Graham Gems 

Follow the recipe for Graham Gems. Just before putting 
into pans add 1 cup of dates that have been stoned and cut 
in pieces. 

Bran Gems 

2 cups bran 1 cup sour milk 

1 cup flour , 2 eggs 

yi teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons butter or 

1 teaspoon soda other fat 
^ cup molasses 

Mix dry ingredients, add molasses and sour milk. Then 
add well-beaten eggs and the melted fat. Bake in small greased 
gem pans 35 minutes in a moderate oven. Serves 8. 

Rolled Oats Muffins 

y/\. cup oleomargarine ^ teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons sugar 3 teaspoons baking 
1 egg powder 

1 cup rolled oats Nutmeg 

% cup flour 1 cup milk 

Cream the fat, add sugar and well-beaten egg. ' Then add 
the rolled oats and other dry ingredients alternately with the 
milk. Bake in greased muffin tins in a hot oven 25 to 30 
minutes. Serves 6 to 8. , 

Corn Bread 

1 ^ cup corn meal 2 eggs 

\y2 cup flour 2 cups milk 

1^ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons butter or 

1 tablespoon sugar other fat 

4 teaspoons baking powder 

If sour milk is used emit baking powder and use 1 tea- 
spoon soda. 



201 



Mix and sift dry ingredients. Beat eggs well, add milk, and 
add gradually to dry ingredients. Beat well. Add melted butter. 
Turn into a well-buttered pan. Bake in hot oven 30 minutes. 
Serves 6 to 8. 

Corn Bread Sticks 

Prepare the batter for corn bread. Bake in well-greased 
bread stick pans 15 to 20 minutes until well browned. Serve 
hot. Makes 2 dozen. 

Spoon Corn Bread 

1 cup white corn meal 1 egg 

1 teaspoon salt 1 pint sour milk 

1 teaspoon soda 1 tablespoon fat 

If sweet milk is used, omit the soda and add 2 level tea- 
spoons baking powder. 

Sift together the corn meal, salt, and soda, add th:' egg 
well-beaten, then the milk and melted fat. Beat thoroughly^ 
put into a shallow, well-greased dish, preferably eaithen, 
granite, or iron, and bake 30 to 35 minutes in a hot even. 
Serves 6. 



Corn Meal Rolls 

1 %. cup flour y2 teaspoon salt 

% cup corn meal 4 tablespoons butter 

4 teaspoons baking 1 egg 

powder % cup milk 

1 tablespoon sugar 

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Chop 2 tablespoons butter 
in with a knife. 

Beat egg, add ^ cup milk to egg, then add to dry ingred- 
ients slowly to make a soft dough. Toss on a floured board, roll 
out j^inch thick, cut with a round cutter, brush with melted but- 
ter, fold over so that edges are even, put in a buttered pan, brush 



202 



with milk and bake in a quick oven 12 to 15 minutes. Serves 
10 to 12. 

Corn Meal Dodgers 

1 pint white Southern corn meal 

2 tablespoons shortening 

Yz cup boiling water poured over to make meal moist, 
not soft 
Let stand Yz hour 

1 egg, beaten without separating 

2 tablespoons milk 

Add to meal, then drop by spoonfuls onto a hot, greased 
baking pan, shape like a meringue. Bake in a moderate oven 
for 3/2 hour. Serve hot. Serves 6 to 8. 

Steamed Brown Bread 

4 cups rye meal 1 teaspoon salt 

2 cups corn meal 1 cup molasses 

1 tablespoon soda 4 cups sour milk 

Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, add the molasses; 
then the milk. Beat well. Put into a mould which has been 
greased. Cover tightly. Cook over steam 6 hours, then re- 
move cover, and dry in the oven for a few minutes. Serves 20. 
See — Steamed mixtures. 

Quick Graham Bread 

1 cup graham flour 1 egg 

y^ cup wheat flour 2 tablespoons molasses 

Yz teaspoon salt 1 cup sour milk 
Y2 teaspoon soda 

Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Add molasses to well- 
beaten egg and add to dry ingredients. Add sour milk slowly, 
and beat thoroughly. Turn into a well-greased pan and bake in 
a hot oven 30 minutes. Serves 6. 



203 



Nut Bread 

4 cups flour 1 cup milk 

1 cup sugar 1 cup chopped nut meats 

6 teaspoons baking powder Salt 

legg 
Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Add egg and milk, mak- 
ing a soft dough as for baking powder-biscuits. Add nuts and 
turn into loaf pans which have been well-greased. Let stand 
20 minutes. Bake in a moderately hot oven 30 to 45 minutes. 
Makes two loaves. 

Quick Coffee Bread 

2 tablespoons oleomargarine 1 ^ cups flour 

or other fat 3 teaspoons baking 

%. cup sugar powder 

1 egg %. teaspoon salt 

^ cup milk 
Cream the fat, add the sugar and the egg, well-beaten, 
then add the dry ingredients and the milk alternately to make 
a cake batter. Bake in a well-greased, round cake tin 25 to 30 
minutes. 

After the bread is well risen, sprinkle the top with 

%. cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons oleomargarine 

1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons flour 
Continue baking until done. 

Serves 6 to 8. 

Raisin Bread 

2 cups flour 1 egg 

4 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup milk, or enough to 

y2 teaspoon salt make a soft dough 

y2 cup sugar ^ cup currants 

34 teaspoon nutmeg grating ^ cup raisins 

4 tablespoons butter 

Mix and sift the flour, baking powder, salt, sugar, and 
nutmeg twice, chop in fat till very fine. Add the beaten egg to 



204 



one-half cup milk and mix lightly with flour and fat, using just 
enough to form a soft dough. Add the raisins and currants which 
have been well washed, dried, and lightly floured. Bake in a 
buttered loaf pan 40 to 50 minutes in a moderate oven. Serves 
8 to 10. 

Griddle Cakes 

Batter — Griddle cakes are prepared in the form of thin 
batters. 

Sweet, sour, or butter milk may be used in griddle cakes. 

Flour, stale bread, rice, corn meal or other cereals may 
form the foundation of griddle cake batters. 

The Griddle — Griddle cakes are made round or long in 
shape. 

Iron griddles hold an intense heat and give good results in 
baking. When black they heat best. 

Aluminum griddles — which require little or no greasing — 
heat very easily, are easily cleaned and light to handle. The 
aluminum griddle is apt to warp and one of the heavy cast 
aluminum must be selected to avoid this danger. 

Soapstone griddles — which must not be greased at all — 
give excellent results in baking but are very heavy. 

Electric griddles of steel or aluminum are most satisfactory 
because of the even heat which can be secured and maintained. 

Preparation of Griddle — Make sure the griddle is perfectly 
smooth. Rub an iron griddle well with salt to clean. 

If it is to be greased, rub it with a piece of salt pork on 
the end of a fork, with suet, or with beef drippings or lard on a 
soft cloth. Butter is expensive and burns too easily to be desir- 
able. 

Wipe off with tissue paper before using to remove any 
black. 

Scrape off any mixture that sticks. 



205 



Grease after each using. 

For cake turners the regulation cake turners, plain or 
perforated, are made, or a broad-bladed spatula may be used, 
or a broad-bladed knife. 

Baking — Pour batter carefully from spoon or pitcher so 
that it will take a round shape. 

Test griddle and batter first by baking one cake. When it 
bubbles on top evenly, turn and brown on under side. Turn 
only once while baking. 

Serving — Always have a hot plate ready for serving cakes. 
Serve immediately when baked. 

A perforated cover is good to put over the plate or a nap- 
kin may be folded over the cakes if they have to stand for a 
few minutes. 

Granulated sugar, powdered sugar, and syrups are all 
used as accompaniments in serving griddle cakes. 

Plain Griddle Cakes 

1 quart flour 3 eggs 

1 teaspoon salt 3 cups milk 

4 teaspoons baking powder % cup butter 

Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Separate the yolks and 
whites of the eggs and add milk to the yolks. Add this mix- 
ture to the dry ingredients and fold in the whites of the eggs. 
Add butter, melted, last. Cook at once on a hot griddle. The 
batter may be made quickly without separating the eggs. Serves 
16 to 20. 

Corn Meal Griddle Cakes 

1 cup corn meal 4 teaspoons baking powder 

1 cup hot milk % cup sugar 

1 cup flour 2 eggs 

1 teaspoon salt 
Pour the hot milk over the meal, stir thoroughly, and cook 
5 minutes. Sift the remaining dry ingredients; when the meal 



206 



has cooled, mix all together and add the well-beaten eggs. Add 
cold milk if mixture is too thick. Bake at once. Serves 8 to 10. 

Sour Milk Griddle Cakes 

2 cups stale bread or }^ teaspoon salt 

bread crumbs ^ cup sugar 

1 cup boiling water 1 egg 

2 cups flour 1 y2 cup sour milk 

y^ teaspoon soda 1 tablespoon melted butter 

Break bread in pieces and pour boiling water over it. 
When soft pour off surplus water, if any, and beat until smooth. 
Add dry ingredients, mixed and sifted, then beaten egg, milk 
and butter. Beat thoroughly; bake on a hot, greased griddle. 
Serves 8 to 10. 

Bread Griddle Cakes 
XYz cups stale bread crumbs 3^ teaspoons baking 
1 Yz cups hot milk powder 

2 eggs y2 teaspoon salt 

yz cup flour 2 tablespoons butter 

(1 cup any cooked cereal may be used instead of bread 
crumbs) 

Soften bread crumbs in hot milk; cool; add yolks of eggs, 
and add this liquid to dry ingredients, sifted together; cut 
and fold in whites of eggs and add melted butter last. Cook at 
once on a hot griddle. Serves 6 to 8. 

Buckwheat Cakes 

1 quart buckwheat flour 2 tablespoons molasses 

y^ cup corn meal ^ cake yeast 

1 teaspoon salt ^ cup warm water 

Soften yeast in ^ cup warm water. Mix buckwheat, 
corn meal, and salt. Add molasses and sufficient warm water 
to make a thin batter. Add yeast and beat well. Set in warm 
place and let rise over night. In the morning beat up well, and 
bake on a hot griddle. Serves 16 to 20. 



207 



Waffles 

The Batter — Waffles are prepared with a thin batter richer 
than that used for griddle cakes and made lighter by the use 
of more eggs. 

The Waffle Iron — Waffles are baked in a corrugated 
waffle iron which must be well-buttered with a brush or soft 
cloth each time before cooking a waffle. 

Baking — Both sides of a waffle iron must be heated before 
buttering and the waffle is baked largely by the heat of the iron. 
The first side of the waffle can be quickly turned, the second 
side will require longer cooking. Cook till both sides are well- 
browned. 

Serving — Have hot plates ready for serving. Serve as soon 
as baked. Serve with bacon, syriip, or powdered sugar. 

Waffles 

1 pint flour 1 5^ cups milk 

2 teaspoons baking powder 2 tablespoons melted 
3/2 teaspoon salt butter 

3 eggs 

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add yolks of eggs well- 
beaten with milk; cut and fold in well-beaten whites of eggs 
carefully; add melted butter last. Bake on a hot, well-buttered 
waffle iron until well-browned and crisp. Serves 6. 

FRITTERS 

Fritters are batters or doughs which are fried in deep fat. 
Some vegetable or fruit is usually added to the batter or the 
fritter may be served with a sweet sauce or preserve. 

Fritters are served as an entree or side dish with meat or 
are used as a dessert. 





Fritter 


Batter 


1 cup flour 
]/x teaspoon salt 
1 teaspoon baking powder 
1 egg 


Yz cup milk 
2 tablespoons butter 
(melted) 



208 



Sift the dry ingredients together. Beat the egg, add the 
milk, add the hquid to the dry ingredients, then add the melted 
butter. Use the batter with apples, bananas, oranges, pine- 
apple, grated corn or cooked sweet corn, cold cooked cauliflower, 
celery that has been parboiled, oysters, or chopped clams. 
Serves 16 to 20. 

Apple Fritters 

Wash, quarter, pare, and core sour apples, cut quarters 
into halves, and stir into fritter batter. Drop by spoonfuls into 
deep fat, and fry until golden brown. Drain on absorbent 
paper, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot. See — 
Cooking in fats. 

Queen Fritters 

^ cup butter y2 cup flour 

3/2 cup boiling water 2 eggs 

Put the butter in a sauce pan, add the water, and when 
boiling turn in all the flour at once, stirring until it forms a ball. 
Add the eggs, unbeaten, one at a time, and beat well. Fry a 
small spoonful at a time in deep fat until well-puffed and 
brown. Drain on absorbent paper; split and put jam or mar- 
marmalade inside of puff; sprinkle with powdered sugar. 
Serves 10 to 12. See — Cooking in fats. 

TIMBALES 

Timbales are entrees which are moulded and cooked in 
cases, or the term is applied to pastry preparations which are 
cooked in the shape of cases. 

The moulded timbale preparations may be savory or sweet. 
They may be prepared from a mixture which resembles a cus- 
tard, or a souffle, or a croquette mixture. 

To shape the timbale mixture a mould is well-buttered, 
then lined with sifted crumbs. 



209 

The timbale is steamed or baked in the mould or turned 
from the mould and egged, crumbed and fried as a croquette. 

The timbale is always turned from the mould and usually 
served hot with a white, brown or tomato sauce, peas, mush- 
rooms or other garnish, and an accompaniment of crisp bread. 

Swedish Timhales — The timbales in the form of a pastry 
preparation most commonly used are the Swedish timbales. 
These are very thin batters which must be perfectly smooth and 
are cooked very quickly on hot irons until they are brown and 
crisp. 

The timbale irons are round, long or heart-shaped, often 
with a fluted surface. They are very heavy and hold a great 
deal of heat. They have a long handle to prevent burning of 
the hand while cooking. 

The irons should be kept perfectly smooth and clean and 
put away well-greased and wrapped in tissue paper. 

Swedish Timbales 

^ cup flour 1 egg 

y2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil or 

1 teaspoon sugar melted butter 

^ cup milk 
Sift the dry ingredients. Add the milk gradually, then the 
slightly beaten egg, and the oil; stir well, but do not beat; 
strain the mixture into a cup. Heat the timbale iron in fat 
which is hot enough to brown a cube of bread in one minute. 
The fat should be deep enough to cover the iron. When hot, 
dip the iron three-fourths into the batter, and then into the hot 
fat. Cook the timbale until a delicate brown; remove from the 
iron, and drain on brown paper. See — Cooking in fats. Serves, 
30 to 40. 



BREAD 

Yeast bread or "light bread" is made by using yeast to- 
produce the gas necessary for making the bread light. 

YEAST 

Yeast is a kind of plant without leaves, stems, or blossoms, 
microscopic in size but larger than bacteria. It consists of a 
single egg-shaped cell which splits in the center to form new 
plants or sends out little protuberances from the ends which 
break off as little buds to form new plants. The yeast plant 
multiplies very rapidly, many hundreds of cells being produced 
in a few minutes. 

Yeast plants are present in the air and found in the form 
of "bloom" on the surface of grapes, plums, and other fruits. 

Conditions for Growth 

The yeast plant needs moisture and heat for growth. 
The most favorable temperature is from 65 degrees to 
90 degrees F. Above 139 degrees the activities of yeast 
become arrested and at 212 degrees the plant is killed. A 
low temperature renders yeast inactive and at 32 degrees it may 
become ruptured. 

For food the yeast plant requires some nitrogenous and 
sugary material both of which it finds in the bread dough, for 
it acts together with the ferments in wheat in changing the 
starch to sugar. 

Action of Yeast 

As yeast grows it breaks sugar up into alcohol and carbon- 
dioxide, a process known as alcoholic fermentation. When 
yeast has grown in dough long enough to produce alcohol and 
carbon-dioxide in large quantities it is necessary to check this 
action by kneading the dough and finally by baking it as an- 
other form of fermentation is likely to set in and make the dough 
sour by the production of an acid. This is known as acetic fer- 
mentation and must not be allowed to begin in bread as it 

210 



211 



changes the flavor. Lactic acid fermentation may take place in 
bread if the milk used is not first scalded. 

Yeast produces a bread which is more wholesome and more 
porous than baking powder breads and which has a special 
flavor because some of the starch has been converted into sugar. 
In yeast breads there remain no harmful products because the 
alcohol and carbon-dioxide are both entirely given off during 
the baking. 

Preparation of Yeast 

Commercial yeast is grown in a mixture usually pre- 
pared of barley and water. The yeast plants are collected, 
thoroughly washed, combined with fine starch, and pressed into 
small cakes which are wrapped in tin foil. This is known as 
"compressed yeast." There is not enough moisture retained for 
the yeast to grow; if it is kept cold it can be kept fresh for 
several days. Compressed yeast should have a pleasant, alco- 
holic odor, be a light tan in color and not be marked by dark 
streaks or mould. 

"Dry yeast" or "yeast foam" is combined with some starchy 
substance and is so free from moisture that it will keep in any 
temperature. It is cheaper than compressed yeast but longer 
time for rising is necessary if dry yeast is used. 

Liquid yeasts are grown in a liquid solution prepared from 
flour, warm water, and hops. They are not usually handled 
commercially. 

Leaven is a portion of dough kept to be used as a starter in 
the next rising. It must be kept cold. That is the old-fashioned 
method of starting bread. 

Only yeast that is fresh and in good condition should be 
used in making bread. Use ^ cake compressed yeast for 1 
quart liquid if the bread is set at night; 2 cakes if set in the 
morning. Soften 1 yeast cake in ^4 cup lukewarm water. One 
cake of dry yeast is sufficient for one quart of liquid if it is to 
rise over night. 



212 



Liquid Yeast 

2 ounces hops 2 teaspoons salt 

2 quarts water 1 pound flour 

Yz pound brown sugar 3 pounds potatoes 

Boil the hops and water 1 hour. Add the sugar, salt, and 
flour. Let stand for three days in a warm place. If it foams over 
the top of the jar stir it well. On the third day add the potatoes, 
boiled and mashed. On the fourth day strain, bottle, and keep 
in a cool place. Use one cup of yeast to one quart of liquid 
when starting bread. 

Bread Flour 

The best flours for yeast breads are those prepared 
from wheat and rye because these two cereals contain a 
large amount of gluten. Gluten is one of the principal proteins 
of wheat and is valuable in bread making because it is very 
tough and elastic, binding the particles of flour together and 
thus retaining the gas bubbles that are formed during the growth 
of the yeast. 

Spring wheat or hard wheat flours are best for bread 
making when yeast is used because they contain a high per cent 
of gluten. Winter wheat or soft wheat flours are more desirable 
for all baking powder mixtures and are known as pastry flours. 

A good pastry flour is miich whiter in color and smoother 
and finer in texture than is bread flour, and it retains the im- 
press of the fingers much more readily. 

Tests for Good White Flour 

A good bread flour should be creamy white in color and 
slightly granular to the touch. It should not show a tendency 
to lump or cake, nor readily hold the impress of the fingers if 
squeezed in the hand. 



213 



Flour should be kept in a cool, dry place. It should have 
no musty odor and should be looked over carefully before using 
to be sure that it is free from insects. 

Whole Wheat Flour 

\Miole wheat flour may be used in all recipes in 
the same way that white flour is used. In whole wheat or 
entire wheat flour the outer covering has been removed and 
enough of the whole grain is retained to give the flour a 
dark color. The germ is usually retained in the whole wheat, 
hence the keeping qualities of whole wheat flour are not so good 
as those of white flour because of the larger per cent of fat 
present. 

The bread made from whole wheat flour is not so light as 
that from white flour because the siliceous covering of the grain 
which is retained contains a ferment resembling diastase, called 
cerealin. While the dough is rising this ferment acts upon a 
good portion of the starch, forming viscid compounds of dextrin 
and sugar preventing carbon dioxide from puffing up the bread 
as much as it otherwise would. 

Graham Flour 

Graham flour was originally a coarse, unbolted flour made 
by grinding the whole wheat which is first washed and cleaned. 
At the present time much of the graham flour is prepared by 
more or less perfect bolting. The food value of graham flour is 
the same as that of the so-called whole wheat flour. 

The graham flour is valued because it irritates the mucous 
membrane of the intestines, increases peristaltic action, thus 
giving the digestive tract needed exercise and acting as a laxa- 
tive, and supplies bulk to the food. It is usd in the same ways 
that white flour is used. 

Salt is added to the bread dough for flavor. 



214 



Sugar is used in bread, not so much to give flavor as to feed 
the yeast plant. 

Lard or butter is used for shortening but the presence of 
shortening retards, rather than favors, the growth of the yeast 
plants and so is used in small quantities except in fancy breads, 
then it it is well to add it after the sponge has become well 
started. 

Milk gives a whiter bread than water but both may be 
used either alone or in combination. The liquid used should 
always be scalded first to prevent the introduction of bacteria 
into the bread dough and to make sure that there is no danger of 
the milk souring during the time of rising. 

Mashed potatoes and potato water are often used, especially 
with dry yeast, as they favor the growth of the yeast plant and 
produce a bread which retains its moisture well. Whey is 
sometimes used as the liquid. 

MAKING BREAD 

The processes in bread making consist of mixing, knead- 
ing, rising, and baking. 

I Mixing — The method of mixing bread may be varied 
according to the kind of yeast used and the time allowed for 
rising. If dry yeast is to be used and if a long time is to be 
allowed for rising, a sponge is usually prepared first. When 
yeast has become active in the sponge enough flour is added to 
make a dough, which is then kneaded 20 minutes. When com- 
pressed yeast is used and time of rising is to be short the dough 
is usually prepared at once and thoroughly kneaded for 20 min- 
utes. The dough should be put in a warm bowl, covered, and 
kept in a warm place free from drafts. 

II Kneading — Kneading is done on a wooden board which 
is first floured, or a metal board which is slightly greased, or the 
board may be covered wiht a "magic cover" which requires no 



215 



flour or grease. Bread should be kept warm during the 
kneading. 

The purpose of the first kneading is (1) to incorporate 
air; (2) to distribute yeast plants evenly; (3) to moisten each 
little starch granule; (4) to give a smooth, even surface; (5) to 
develop the gluten. 

The purpose of the second kneading is (1) to check the 
fermentation; and (2) to make the grain of the bread finer by 
working the gas through in fine, even bubbles. 

The time necessary for the first kneading is about 20 
minutes. The dough should be kneaded until it does not stick 
to the hands or board and is smooth, spongy, and elastic, rising 
quickly when indented. 

The time necessary for the second kneading is about 5 
minutes, or until there are no longer large, uneven bubbles. 

III Rising — The first rising will require from 2 to 8 hours 
according to the kind and amount of yeast used. The second 
rising will require from ^ to 1 hour according to the tempera- 
ture of the dough. Test for rising — the dough should be doubled 
in bulk and spring back lightly when touched. 

If it is necessary to check rising quickly, the dough may 
be cut down with a knife, and the rising may be retarded by 
subjecting the dough to a low temperature. 

IV Baking — Reasons for baking bread are ( 1 ) to check the 
fermentation and to kill the yeast; (2) to make the starch 
soluble; (3) to drive off the alcohol and carbon dioxide gas; 
(4) to make the bread light and porous; (5) to form a brown 
crust which will give a pleasant sweet flavor to the bread as 
the starch is dextrinized. 

Bread requires a hot oven. The temperature should be 
about 375 degrees, sufficient to brown a piece of unglazed white 
paper or a tablespoonful of flour in 3 minutes. The heat of 
the oven should increase slightly during the first 20 minutes, be 



216 



kept even during the next twenty minutes, and decrease during 
the last 20 minutes. The time for baking bread should be 
divided into fourths, the bread continuing to rise during first 
fourth, browning slightly during the second, continuing to brown 
during the third and drying out during the last quarter. Bis- 
cuits require a hotter oven than bread because they can be 
baked more quickly. 

When bread is thoroughly baked it does not cling to sides 
of pan, the crust is a golden brown, the sides will spring back 
when touched, and a hollow sound will be given forth if the 
crust is tapped. 

When bread is baked, the loaves should be taken from the 
pans, put on a wire rack, and left uncovered until cooled. Bread 
should be kept in a clean, ventilated tin box in a cool, dry place. 

Bread 

2 cups milk or water % cake compressed yeast 

(scalded) (1 cake if set in morning) 

2 teaspoons salt J4 cup water (lukewarm) 

2 teaspoons sugar Flour 

1 tablespoon lard or butter 
Put the hot water or milk, salt, sugar, and fat into a bowl; 
when lukewarm add the yeast softened in the lukewarm water, 
then the flour gradually, and when stiff enough to handle, 
turn dough out on floured board and knead until soft and 
elastic (20 minutes). Return dough into the bowl, moisten, 
cover and let it rise in a warm place until double its bulk; then 
knead slightly, divide into loaves, or shape into biscuits, cover 
and let rise in the pan in which they are to be baked until 
double in bulk, and bake 50 to 60 minutes. (2 loaves). 

Time required for making bread, if 1 yeast cake is used 
— 6 hours 



217 



Beaten Bread 

Follow the bread recipe, but use only enough flour to make 
a very stiff batter that can be beaten. Beat mixture until flour 
is thoroughly mixed, let sponge rise till double in bulk; then 
add sufficient flour to make a stiff dough; beat well for five 
minutes. Place in pans, and when double its bulk, bake. 
(2 loaves). 

Beaten bread will not be so fine in grain as kneaded bread, 
but may be more easily prepared. 

Whole Wheat Bread 

1 tablespoon butter or lard 2 cakes compressed yeast 

2 teaspoons salt ^ cup lukewarm water 

1 pint milk, scalded Whole wheat flour to 

1 pint boiling water make a batter 

Pour hot milk and water into bowl with salt and butter; 
when lukewarm add yeast cake which has been softened in 
lukewarm water, then add flour gradually beating it in with a 
wire whip until very light and spongy. 

Set away to rise till double its bulk (about one hour), then 
add flour to make a stiff dough. Knead thoroughly, set away 
to rise a second time (about 1 hour), then knead slightly, and 
divide into loaves, and let rise in pans till double in bulk and 
bake 50 to 60 minutes. (4 loaves.) 

Soft Graham Bread 

1 ^ cups scalded water 2 tablespoons butter 

or milk or lard 

2 teaspoons salt ^ cake compressed yeast 

2 tablespoons molasses or ^ cup lukewarm water 
4 tablespoons brown 3^ cups graham flour 

sugar and 1 tablespoon 1^ cups white flour 
molasses 
Mix ingredients in order given, and add sufficient white 
flour to make a thick batter or sponge. Beat well, let rise till 



218 



very light, beat again, and pour it into the greased bread pans, 
filling them half full. Let rise till very light, and bake in a 
moderate oven. (2 loaves.) 

Rye Bread 

Follow the recipe for bread, using from one to one and 
one half cups rye flour to every 3 cups of white flour. 

Coffee Bread With Yeast 

1 cup scalded milk Flour to make a stiff 

Yz cup butter or other fat batter 

y^ cup sugar ^ cup raisins 

^ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons creamed 

1 egg butter 

1 yeast cake 3 tablespoons flour 

% cup lukewarm water ^ cup sugar 

1 teaspoon cinnamon 
Add scalded milk to butter, sugar, and salt; when luke- 
warm add yeast, softened in ^ cup lukewarm milk. Then add 
egg, well-beaten, flour, and raisins. Beat well. Cover, and let 
rise over night. In the morning, beat again, or knead, turn into 
two buttered round cake pans, making ^ inch thick. Cover 
and let rise till light. Bake in a hot oven 45 to 50 minutes. 
When nearly browned spread with the creamed butter, flour^ 
sugar, and cinnamon, which have been well-mixed together^ 
and continue browning. Serves 12 to 16. 

ROLLS AND BUNS 
Parker House Rolls 

1 pint milk (scalded) Y^ yeast cake, if mixed at 

2 tablespoons butter or night 

oleomargarine 1 cake, if mixed in the 

2 tablespoons sugar morning 

1 teaspoon salt Y ^^P water 

3 cups flour 



219 



Make a sponge, beat thoroughly, and put away to rise. 
When light, add flour to make a stiff dough, and knead until 
smooth. When double its bulk, knead again, and roll the dough 
^ inch thick. Lift it from the board, and let it shrink so that 
the rolls may be of uniform shape. Cut with a round or oval 
cutter. Place a bit of fat in the center of each round of the 
dough, then fold so that the edges are even. Press the roll on 
the straight side to prevent it from separating as it rises. Place 
the rolls in a greased pan, and when very light bake in a hot 
oven 20 to 25 minutes. The oven should be hot enough to color 
a piece of unglazed white paper to golden brown i.n 1^ 
minutes. (4 dozen.) 

Luncheon Rolls 

Use recipe for Parker House Rolls. When light enough to 

to shape, knead down and cut off small pieces, shaping them 
in long narrow strips. Rub with fat and put close together in a 
narrow pan. Let rise till light. Bake in a quick oven 20 to 
25 minutes. 

Finger Rolls 
Use recipe for Parker House Rolls. When light enough to 
shape, knead dowm and cut off small pieces. Shape them in 
slender, pointed rolls and place far enough apart so that they 
wall not touch one another w^hen they expand. Let rise till 
light. Brush wdth milk and bake in a quick oven 20 to 25 
minutes. 

English Muffins 

2 cups scalded milk ^ yeast cake 

1 cup hot w^ater % cup lukewarm water 

3 tablespoons shortening Flour 

1 tablespoon sugar 1 egg, if desired 

1 teaspoon salt 
Scald milk. Heat water. Soften yeast cake in lukewarm 
water. Measure shortening, sugar and salt, and put in a large 



220 



bowl. Add scalded milk and hot water. When mixture is 
lukewarm add softened yeast. Add enough flour to make a 
stiff dough. Egg should be added after one-third flour has been 
added. Beat well. Let rise over night to double its bulk. When 
light divide into small balls and place in buttered gem pans. 
Let rise until very light. Bake in a moderate oven 20 to 30 
minutes. Makes 18 to 24. 

Bread Sticks 

1 cup milk (scalded) ^ yeast cake 
Ya, cup butter - ^4 cup water 

2 tablespoons sugar 1 egg white (beaten) 
Y'z teaspoon salt 4 cups flour (about) 

Make a stiff dough and knead until smooth. Let it rise 
until double its bulk. Knead again, then shape into sticks. Roll 
a small piece of dough into a ball, then into a stick which 
should be 6 inches long, and about ^ inch in diameter. Place 
in greased bread-stick pans, or on sheets and let the sticks rise 
until light. Bake in a moderate oven 15 to 20 minutes. (4 dozen.) 

Buns 

1 cup milk (scalded) % yeast cake 

y^ cup sugar ^ cup water 

1 egg 2 cups flour 

y^ teaspoon salt 

Make a sponge, beat thoroughly, and when light add — 
54 cup butter (softened) ^ teaspoon cinnamon and 

^ cup currants nutmeg 

Add flour to make a stiff dough. Knead this, and let rise 
until double its former bulk. 

Then shape into small round cakes, and place them in 
greased muffin pans; when light, bake in a moderate oven 40 
minutes. When the buns have baked for 15 minutes, glaze them 
with a mixture of milk and sugar (1 tablespoon sugar, % cup 
milk), and repeat this every five minutes. (1^ dozen.) 



221 



Rolled Cinnamon Buns 

Use the sponge for buns, and when light add flour to make 
a stiff dough; knead well and let it rise until double its bulk; 
knead slightly then roll ^ inch thick. Spread with — 

yii cup softened butter 1 tablespoon cinnamon 

^ cup currants 1 cup brown sugar 

Roll up the dough as in making jelly roll, and cut in 
slices 1 inch thick. Place in well-greased pans, or muffin tins 
with cut surfaces up and down. When very light, bake in a 
moderate oven 45 minutes. Just before removing from oven, 
baste with molasses if desired. (1^ to 2 dozen.) 

Date Buns 

1 pint lukewarm water ^ cup molasses 

% cup sugar 3 cups flour or more 

y2 teaspoon salt 2 cups dates, chopped 

y2 yeast cake %. cup butter 

% cup lukewarm water 
Put hot water, salt, and sugar into bowl, add the yeast 
which has been softened in V^ cup lukew^arm water, add mo- 
lasses and flour gradually to make a soft dough, then add 1 cup 
chopped dates. Set aside to rise. When very light, knead and 
roll out until about % inch thick. Spread with ^ cup softened 
butter, and 1 cup chopped dates. Roll up the dough, as in mak- 
ing jelly roll, and cut in slices 1 inch thick. Place in well- 
greased pans, with cut surfaces up and down. When very light 
bake in a moderate oven 45 minutes. Makes 16 to 20. 

Pulled Bread 

Remove crusts from fresh bread, tear bread into small 
strips with two forks, and brown slowly in the oven so that 
bread is thoroughly dry and crisp. 

Uses for Stale Bread 

Stale bread, crumbed, is suitable for bread puddings, dress- 



222 



ings and fillings for scalloped dishes, omelets, griddle cakes, etc. 

Small dried pieces of stale bread may be rolled or ground, 
sifted and used for crumbing croquettes, cutlets, etc. 

Whole slices of stale bread may be used for toast, sippets, 
croutons, etc. 

Croutons 

Cut stale bread into ^ inch cubes and brown in the oven. 

Sippets 

Cut bread into thin slices, then into strips 5 inches long 
and 1 Yz inches wide and toast them. 

Canapes 

Cut bread into pieces 2 inches thick, cut in rounds or in 
rectangles 4^/^ inches long by 3 inches wide. Remove part of the 
bread from the center, leaving i^ inch wall, butter, and brown 
in the oven. 

Soup Sticks 

Cut stale bread into ^ inch slices, remove crusts, then 
butter and cut in ^ inch strips; brown in the oven. 

Zwieback 

Cut baker's bread or other light bread into 1 inch slices 
and brown slowly in a moderate oven. 

Toast 

Cut stale bread into slices J4 iiich thick, put on toaster or 
fork, move gently over the heat until dry, then brown by placing 
nearer the heat, turning constantly. Bread may be dried in the 
oven before toasting. 

Milk Toast 

1 pint milk ^ teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon butter 8 slices toast 

Scald the milk. Season with butter and salt. Pour over 
hot toast. 



223 



Cream Toast 

% cup butter 2 cups milk or cream 

3 tablespoons flour 6 or 8 slices of toast 

1 teaspoon salt 

Heat the butter. When it bubbles, add the flour and salt, 
add hot milk gradually, stirring constantly, and allowing the 
mixture to thicken and bubble each time before adding another 
portion of milk. The sauce is sufficiently cooked when it boils 
up after the last addition of milk. Pour this sauce over pieces 
of dry or moist toast. Moist toast is prepared by quickly dip- 
ping dry toast into hot, salted water or hot milk. A cheaper 
sauce may be made by using 2 tablespoons butter. Serves 6 to 8. 

French Toast 

1 or 2 eggs 1 cup milk 

y^ teaspoon salt 6 or 8 slices of stale bread 

3 tablespoons butter or oleomargarine 

Beat the eggs slightly, add salt and milk, and dip bread 
in mixture. Heat the fat in a frying pan, brown the bread on 
one side, turn and brown on the other side. Serve hot. Serves 
6 to 8. 

Crisp Crackers 

Split thick soda crackers, spread with butter, put on a 
baking sheet and place in the oven to brown. Serve with soup 
or salad. 

Nut Wafers 

1 2 salt wafers %. cup chopped nuts 

1 egg white Salt 

Brush each wafer with white of egg which has been slightly 
beaten with water (1 tablespoon to 1 egg white), dust with finely 
chopped nuts, and sprinkle with salt. Dry in the oven till 
crisp. Serve with salad. 



224 



Toasted Crackers and Cheese 

12 salt wafers Salt 

y^ cup cheese Cayenne 

Season grated cheese with salt and Cayenne pepper. 
Sprinkle on salt wafers, put in a slow oven, and heat until 
cheese has melted. Serve hot with salads. 

Butter Balls to Serve with Bread 

Scrub butter paddles well with white soap and hot water, 
rinse in clean boiling water, and chill in ice water. 

With a piece of paper over the blade of the knife, cut each 
T^ound of butter into 16 pieces of equal size. Shake water frort? 
the paddles, hold one paddle firmly in the left hand, and roll 
a piece of butter on that with the paddle in the right hand 
until round. 

SANDWICHES 

I The Bread — Sandwiches may be prepared from white, 
brown, graham or entire wheat bread. Crackers, pastry, and 
sweet wafers are sometimes used for fancy sandwiches. A bread 
of fine grain cuts to the best advantage. It should be at least 
24 hours old. 

II Slicing — Bread should be cut in thin slices for making 
sandwiches. It may be handled to better advantage if the slice 
is spread with butter before being cut from the loaf. 

III The Shape of Sandwiches — Care should be taken to 
cut the bread in regular pieces that match one another. If the 
loaf is large, these are usually divided into sections. A long 
narrow sandwich is most easily handled. Sandwiches may be 
trimmed into shape either before or after being spread. Except 
for a hearty sandwich the crust may be removed and the sand- 
wich may usually be made more attractive by cutting in fancy 
shapes; for example, in squares, triangular pieces, narrow 
strips, rounds, or with a fancy cutter. The edges must always 
be perfectly smooth. 



225 



IV Spreading the Sandwich — The butter for spreading the 
sandwich should first be creamed as in making cakes. It will 
then spread more easily, and the bread will not be broken up. 
A spatula or soft knife is desirable for spreading the butter. 

V Keeping Sandwiches — Sandwiches should be protected 
from drying by covering with a damp cloth as soon as they 
have been made. If they are to be kept for some time before 
being used, they should be put in a cold place in a stone jar, or 
well-wrapped. If they are to be packed, it may be desirable 
to wrap the sandwiches in paraffin paper. 

VI Serving of Sandwiches — Sandwiches may be served 
piled neatly on a plate or each sandwich may be separately 
wrapped in paraffin paper. When served with afternoon tea, 
sandwiches are usually placed on a doily on a pretty plate. Hot 
sandwiches are sometimes prepared with a hot sauce and it is 
then necessary to serve them with a fork. 

VII Accompaniments to serve with Sandwiches — Coffee is 
the beverage most appropriately served with sandwiches.. Tea 
comes next. Cocoa and chocolate are good with a dainty sand- 
wich of sweet variety. Fruit drinks are frequently served with 
sandwiches. 

VIII Economy in Making Sandwiches — ^When making 
sandwiches one should plan to economize by utilizing the trim- 
mings of the bread for scalloped dishes, poultry stuffings, 
and puddings, and the crusts for crumbing croquettes, fried cut- 
lets, etc. Left-over portions of foods can frequently be utilized 
in sandwich fillings. 

IX Fillings for Sandwiches — Fillings of various kinds 
may be spread between the slices of bread. 

(1) Meat that has been cooked until very tender may be 
cut in very thin slices across the grain or chopped and seasoned 
with salt and mustard, Worcestershire sauce, horseradish, May- 
onnaise, etc. 



226 



(2) Fish may be flaked, chopped, or pounded, and 
flavored with onion juice, lemon; minced olives or pickles, 
Worcestershire sauce, tabasco, salad oil, vinegar, or mayonnaise. 

(3) Hot sandwiches may be prepared with a filling of 
sliced meat or fish and covered with a hot gravy or white 
sauce; or crisp slices of freshly broiled bacon may be used 
between slices of bread. 

(4) Eggs may be used, hard cooked and sliced or chopped 
and seasoned, or served with a salad dressing or lettuce. 

(5) Vegetables may be used for sandwich fillings by 
adding mayonnaise dressing or salad oil. 

(6) Cheese. Cream cheese may be softened with cream 
and delicately seasoned or combined with pimentoes and nuts, 
or hard cheese may be sliced or grated and seasoned with mus- 
tard, cayenne, and other seasonings for the preparation of 
sandwiches. 

(7) Nuts may be finely chopped and salted or combined 
with salad dressing or cheese, or made into sweet fillings with 
finely-chopped raisins, dates, etc. Nut butters are also a valu- 
able sandwich filling. 

(8) Sweet fillings are frequently used in sandwiches. For 
these, jelly, jam, dates, raisins, preserved ginger, candied 
orange peel, or maraschino cherries, chopped and moistened with 
fruit juice may be used. 

(9) Flavored butters. Plain butter may be creamed and 
various flavors added and beaten until smooth and thoroughly 
blended. The flavored butter may be packed in a jar and kept 
cold until it is needed. Flavors which may be added to the 
butter in this way are anchovy, caviar, sardines, cheese, curry 
powder, horseradish, olives, pickles, mint, water-cress, etc. The 
fancy butter makes an attractive filling, is less in evidence than 
other fillings, and makes the work of spreading the sandwiches 
simpler. 



SCALLOPED DISHES 

Scalloped dishes are made by combining foods with but- 
tered crumbs and baking. If the vegetable or fruit contains a 
large amount of juice, buttered crumbs are used alone. If the 
food be a dry vegetable, meat, or fish it is first combined with a 
thin white sauce, then covered with buttered crumbs. Scalloped 
dishes are valuable because they hold the heat well, special 
flavors are developed by the intense heat of the oven, and the 
buttered crumbs and white sauce make the nutritive value of 
the dish higher, especially where fat is added. 

Crumbs for scalloped dishes, dressings, etc., are prepared 
from the inside of stale bread, breaking it up with the fingers, 
grating or rubbing two pieces together. Measurements for 
bread crumbs refer to soft broken crumbs, not to dry rolled 
crumbs. If dry crumbs are used one half the amount is suf- 
ficient. 

Crumbs for scalloped dishes are buttered by adding them 
to melted butter and mixing thoroughly. Use 1 tablespoon 
butter to 1 cup criunbs. For savory dishes the crumbs should be 
seasoned, using }i teaspoon salt and a sprinkling of white or 
Cayenne pepper to each 1 cup of crumbs. 

Dishes prepared "au Gratin" are prepared as scalloped 
dishes with white sauce and the addition of grated cheese. The 
food value of the dish is thus decidedly increased. 

Scalloped dishes and dishes "au Gratin" are prepared in 
large baking dishes or in individual ramekins. They are served 
hot in the dish. The dishes "au Gratin" may serve as a sub- 
stitute for a meat dish. 

Note: — See recipes for scalloped apples, cabbage, corn, 
egg plant, fish, meat, onions, oysters, potatoes, potatoes with 
eggs, potatoes with white sauce, rhubarb, rice, salmon, and 
tomatoes. 



227 



228 



GARNISHINGS 

Food is garnished (1) to please the eye; (2) to improve the 
flavor; (3) to increase the nutritive value; (4) to increase the 
bulk or sufficiency for service. 

A garnish must meet the following requirements: 

1 It must be edible. 

2 It must be appropriate to the dish with which it is 
served. 

3 It must be pleasing to the eye. 

4 It must not interfere with the service of the dish. 

5 It must be ready to put on so that the service of the meal 
is not delayed and the hot foods do not become cooled 
by standing. 

6 It must not be used to cover up the lack of skill in 
cooking. 

Materials use for garnishing include: — 

1 Fresh green vegetables, washed and crisped. Parsley, 
lettuce, cress, etc. 

2 Cooked vegetables cut in attractive shapes. Beets, 
carrots, etc. 

3 Potatoes. French-fried, riced, potato roses. 

4 Croquettes of vegetables and cereals. 

5 Sauces of good consistency and color. 

6 Small fish, oysters, mushrooms, strips of bacon, etc. 

7 Celery curls, slices of tomato, pickles, olives, etc. 

8 Toast, cut in fancy shapes. 

9 Puff pastry cooked in attractive forms. 

10 Jellies, lemons, cherries, etc. 

11 Nuts, washed and blanched, whole or chopped. 

12 Whipped cream and meringues. 

Flowers, nasturtiums, and violets, are occasionally used 
as a garnish. Thus nasturtiums may be used with a 
salad. Candied violets sometimes garnish a cake. How- 



229 



ever, flowers are more frequently used to decorate the 
table or the dish than the food stuff. Thus a rose is 
sometimes laid on the plate beside the sherbet cup or on 
the invalid tray. 



SALADS 

Salads may be divided into classes according to the ma- 
terials of which they are prepared. 

Class I — Salads prepared from the green salad plants, 
used when green and tender, and prepared without cooking. 
Examples — Lettuce, endive, watercress, celery, nasturtium, dan- 
delion, peppergrass, and mustard. 

Class II. — Salads prepared from uncooked vegetables, 
fruits, and nuts. Examples — Tomato, cucumber, onion, cab- 
bage, radish, sweet pepper, olive, apple, banana, orange, grape 
fruit, pineapple, pear, cherry, grape, almond, English walnut, 
pecan, hazel nut. 

Class III — Salads prepared from cooked vegetables. Ex- 
amples — Potato, beet, carrot, asparagus, spinach, peas, beans, 
cauliflower, artichokes, rice. 

Class IV — Salads made from cooked meats, fish, eggs, and 
cheese. Examples — Chicken, sweetbreads, ham, veal, tongue, 
salmon, shrimp, lobster, sardine, oyster and crab. 

Class V — Salads made from vegetable, meat or fish stock, 
and prepared in the form of a jelly. Examples — Pressed 
chicken, aspic jelly, sardines in lemon jelly, tomato, cucumber, 
and mint. 

Salad dressings are made with oil as a foundation or 
with butter or cream as a foundation. 

Oil salad dressings include: 

(1) The French Dressing — prepared by combining oil, 
vinegar, and seasonings until thoroughly blended, used with all 
the fresh green salad plants, with vegetable and fruit salads, 



230 



231 



and to marinate the cooked vegetables, meats and fish used for 
salads. 

(2) Mayonnaise Dressing — prepared by combining oil, 
vinegar, and seasonings with egg-yolks and cream by cooking, 
used for vegetable, meat, fish, egg, and nut salads. 

(3) Cooked Mayonnaise Dressing — prepared by combin- 
ing oil, vinegar, and seasonings with egg-yolks and cream by 
cooking, used as a substitute for Mayonnaise. 

Cream Salad Dressings are prepared by combining butter 
or cream with vinegar and seasonings, and sometimes with eggs 
and milk, usually by cooking. (Mock Mayonnaise). 

Preparation of Salad Materials 

All green materials used for salads should be fresh, clean, 
crisp, and cold. 

All cooked materials should be carefully picked over, well- 
chilled, and cut in attractive forms. 

Left-over portions of cooked vegetables, meat, fish, and 
eggs, may be utilized in salads if judiciously combined. 

Flavors should be carefully combined. 

Garnishes should be attractive and appropriate. 

The salad should be combined just before being served, 
each part being well-chilled before combining. 

To Marinate — Cover the salad materials with French 
Dressing, combine well, and chill for a time before serving so 
that dressing is absorbed. 

Combinations for Salads — Great care must be tak.en to 
combine in a salad only flavors which will blend in an agreeable 
manner. 

Delicately flavored materials must not be used with those 
of strong flavors. 

There must be some distinctly pleasing flavor about the 
salad to render it appetizing. 



232 



Some fresh green salad plant should be used in every salad 
if possible to make it refreshing. 

Salad Seasonings — Onion, leeks, chives, celery, celery seed, 
celery salt, green peppers, pimentoes, cayenne, paprica, pepper- 
corn. Tabasco, catsup, mustard seed, tarragon, olives, horse- 
radish, cloves, lemons, sugar, salt, etc., are seasonings used for 
salads. 

Salad Garnishes — The garnish for salad should be some- 
thing edible, attractive, and appropriate as an accompaniment 
to materials used in salad. 

Lettuce, endive, parsley, water-cress, celery leaves, nastur- 
tium leaves and flowers, pickles, olives, pimolas, nuts, lemons, 
green peppers, capers, beans, beets, radishes, hard cooked eggs, 
and whipped cream are materials used to garnish salads. 

Serving Salads — Salads are served as a course at luncheon, 
dinner or supper, or as an accompaniment to the fish, meat or 
game course. When served as a separate course, the salad should 
follow the meat. 

Salads also form an attractive dish for light refreshments. 

Only vegetable or fruit salads or salads with French 
Dressing should be used for dinner salads; those with May- 
onnaise or rich cream dressings should be used for luncheons, 
supper or refreshments. 

French Dressing is often prepared and added to the salad 
by the host or hostess at the table. 

Salad Accompaniments — Salads are accompanied by wa- 
fers, sandwiches of thin bread and butter (brown, white or 
graham), rolls, cheese straws and other cheese preparations. 

Value of Salads. 

1 Salads are healthful, adding to the diet fresh, green, 
uncooked vegetables and a mild acid which is stimulating and 
adds zest to the appetite. 



22>i 



2 Salads are nutritious, adding oil or fat in an easily 
digested form to food. 

3 Salads are economical, because left-over portions can 
be combined and used advantageously. 

4 Salads are attractive, adding much to the appearance 
of the table, through coloring and possibilities of arrangement, 
thus aiding the appetite of those who eat and awakening the 
interest and developing the artistic skill of the cook. 

RECIPES FOR SALAD DRESSINGS 
French Dressing 

^ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon vinegar 

^ teaspoon pepper 3 tablespoons olive oil 

Have oil and vinegar very cold. Put ingredients in a 
bowl and stir briskly until thoroughly emulsified, or pour in- 
gredients into a bottle and shake well. Serve at once. 
Sufficient for 1 pint vegetables or fruit. 

Cream Salad Dressing 

1 cup thick cream, sweet or 1 teaspoon salt 

sour y^ teaspoon white pepper 

6 tablespoons vinegar Cayenne 
4 tablespoons sugar 

Add vinegar and seasonings to cream and stir until sugar 
is dissolved. Serves 10. 

(Good for cabbage and apple salads.) 

Cooked Salad Dressing 

1 teaspoon salt 2 eggs 

5^ teaspoon mustard 3^ cup milk (heated) 

Cayenne 2 teaspoons butter 

1 teaspoon sugar ^ cup vinegar (heated) 

Mix the salt, mustard, cayenne, and sugar together until 
well-blended, add the eggs, mix thoroughly and add hot milk. 
Add the butter, and cook in a double boiler until it thickens, 



234 



stirring constantly. Remove from the fire, and stir in the heated 
vinegar. If it curdles, place upper part of the double boiler in 
cold water, and beat with an egg beater until smooth. Serves 10. 
(Good for cole slaw and potato salad.) 

Mock Mayonnaise Salad Dressingr 

54 cup butter 1 Yi tablespoons sugar 

1 tablespoon flour Cayenne 

^ cup thin cream or milk 4 egg yolks or two whole 

Yz tablespoon mustard eggs 

2 teaspoons salt ^ cup vinegar 

Melt the butter, add the flour and salt, then add the cream 
and cook until it thickens. Beat eggs well. Mix the sugar, cay- 
enne and mustard and add to the egg mixture. Add to white 
sauce; cook over hot water until thick, stirring constantly. Add 
vinegar slowly. Strain and chill. Serves 16 to 20. 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

1 teaspoon mustard 2 egg yolks 

Yz teaspoon salt 1 cup olive oil 

1 teaspoon powdered sugar 1 ^ tablespoons vinegar or 
Cayenne lemon juice 

Mix the mustard, salt, sugar, and cayenne until well- 
blended, add the egg yolks, then add the oil drop by drop, beat- 
ing with an egg-beater or wooden spoon. 

When it begins to thicken, add the vinegar drop by drop; 
then alternately the remainder of the oil and the vinegar. It 
should be a thick dressing. If it curdles, beat the yolk of an 
egg, and gradually add the dressing to it, beating until all is 
used. Serves 16 to 20. 

Cooked Mayonnaise with Oil 

1 tablespoon mustard ^ cup oil 

1 teaspoon salt ^ cup vinegar 

Cayenne 4 egg yolks 
1 tablespoon sugar 



235 



Mix the dry ingredients, add the oil and vinegar, and 
heat the mixture. Pour slowly on well-beaten egg yolks. Re- 
turn to the double boiler. Stir until thick. Strain and chill. 
Serves 12 to 16. 

RECIPES FOR SALADS 

Cole Slaw 

Pour cooked dressing (while hot) over shaved cabbage^ 
mix well, chill, and serve. Serves 10 to 12. 

3 cups shaved cabbage 1 recipe cooked salad dressing 

Tomato Salad 

Tomatoes French Dressing 

Lettuce 

Arrange slices of tomato on lettuce leaves and dress with 
French Dressing. Add a few slices of cucumber if desired. 

Tomato and Celery Salad 

6 tomatoes 1 head lettuce 

1 stalk celery 1 recipe French Dressing 

After skinning the tomatoes, scoop out a small portion of 
the center from the top and fill with finely cut celery. Arrange 
on a bed of lettuce for serving and dress with French or 
Mayonnaise Dressing. Serves 6. 

Lettuce Salad 

Lettuce French Dressing 

Sprinkle crisp, dry lettuce leaves with French Dressing. 

Toss about so that they may become thoroughly combined. 

Serve very cold. Garnish with slices of red radishes if desired, 

or flavor with a few drops of grated onion. 

Cucumber and Radish Salad 

6 small cucumbers 1 head lettuce 

6 red radishes 1 recipe French Dressing 

Wash and pare cucumbers and remove ends. Slice nearly 



236 



across, but do not loosen slices. Slice a red radish (which has 
not been peeled) and put slices between the slics of cucumber 
and serve on a lettuce leaf. Dress with French Dressing. 
Serves 6. 

Celery and Cabbage Salad 

1 small cabbage 1 recipe cream salad dressing 

1 stalk celery Parsle}' 

Remove outside leaves from a small, solid, white cabbage 
and cut off stalk close to leaves. Cut out the center without 
removing the large leaves, leaving them attached to form a 
large cup. Shred center leaves finely with a sharp knife. Mix 
with celery which has been washed, dried, and cut in small 
pieces. 

Add cream salad dressing and refill head of cabbage. Serve 
on a large salad plate. Garnish with parsley. Serves 10 to 20. 

Horseradish Salad 

1 pint cooked beets, ^ cup horseradish 

chopped 2 tablespoons sugar 

1 pint raw cabbage, Yz tablespoon salt 

chopped Vinegar to cover 

y^ teaspoon paprika 
Mix the ingredients well together. Cover with vinegar and 
let stand an hour before serving. Serve cold. 

An excellent relish to serve with meat or fish. Will keep 
several days. Serves 25. 

Relish 

1 cup chopped cabbage 1 tablespoon salt 

1 tablespoon chopped green ^4 teaspoon pepper 

peppers 1 teaspoon celery seed 

1 chopped onion 5^ cup sugar 

2 tablespoons chopped Vinegar to cover 

parsley 



237 



Mix the ingredients together and let stand an hour before 
serving. Serve cold as a relish with meats. Serves 12. 

Vegetable Salad 

1 cooked beet ^ cup cooked green string 

1 cooked carrot beans 

1 cooked potato 1 head lettuce 

1 recipe French Dressing 
y2 recipe Mock Mayonnaise or Mayonnaise dressing 

Wash and crisp the lettuce. Cut the beet, carrot, and po- 
tato into ^ inch cubes. Marinate each vegetable separately 
with French dressing and chill. When ready to serve arrange 
lettuce on plates for individual serving. Then put diced vege- 
tables in layers on each plate, dress lightly with salad dressing, 
and garnish with string beans. Serves 6 to 12. 

Potato Salad 

4 cold boiled potatoes 2 hard cooked eggs 

1 small cucumber 2 cold boiled beets 
1 stalk celery French Dressing 

1 bunch parsley Mayonnaise dressing 

^ teaspoon chopped parsley 

Dice potatoes, cucumbers, and celery; marinate with 
French dressing, and chill. When ready to serve arrange on a 
chop plate in a mound, surround with a border of parsley, and 
garnish top with chopped parsley, chopped whites of eggs, riced 
yolks of eggs, finely chopped beets, and mayonnaise. 

Half a can of chopped olives or pimolas makes an attrac- 
tive addition to the salad. 

A simpler potato salad may be made by seasoning the po- 
tatoes with the juice of one small onion, and dressing with the 
hot cooked salad dressing. Chill and serve on lettuce leaves. 
Serves 12 to 16. 



238 



Mexican Salad 

1 cucumber 1 bunch parsley 

2 tomatoes 1 onion 

1 stalk celery 2 recipes French dressing 

1 Mango pepper 
Slice, chill, and drain cucumber; slice tomatoes in quar- 
ters, chill, and drain. Slice celery in one-eighth inch pieces; 
chop Mango pepper, parsley, and onion fine. Chill very thor- 
oughly, dress with French dressing, and serve from salad bowl. 
Mayonnaise or cream salad dressing may be used if de- 
sired. Serves 10 to 12. 

Egg Salad 

Yz dozen hard cooked eggs ^ cup Mayonnaise or 

1 head lettuce cream dressing 
Wash and crisp the lettuce, cool eggs in cold water, slice 

whites in rings, and put the yolks through a potato ricer. Ar- 
range lettuce leaves on plates for individual serving, lay rings 
of white on lettuce leaf, and fill each ring with yolks of egg. 
Put remaining yolk in center of plate, and dress all with salad 
dressing. Serves 8 to 10. 

Stuffed Eggs 

12 hard cooked eggs Cayenne 

2 teaspoons salt 2 tablspoons olive oil 
2 tablespoons vinegar Lettuce leaves 

1 teaspoon mustard 

Cut the eggs in halves lengthwise or across; remove the 
yolks, mash fine; add the seasonings to yolk; mix well; refill 
the whites; serve on lettuce leaves with dressing, if desired 
add ^ pound ham, finely chopped, to the yolks. Serves 12. 

Cheese and Pimento Salad 

1 cake cream cheese 2 pimentoes finely chopped 

1 cup mock mayonnaise 1 head lettuce 

salad dressing 



239 



Cream the cheese until soft and then fold into it 1 cup of 
thick salad dressing. Add 2 pimentoes, chopped very fine, and 
serve on crisp leaves of lettuce. Serves 8 to 10. 

Chicken Salad 

1 cold cooked chicken 1 head lettuce 

(2 cups) ^ cup French dressing 

1 bunch celery (2 cups) 1 cup majyonnaise dressing 

1 cup small tender peas, cooked 

Carefully remove all skin, bone, and gristle from the meat 
of the chicken, and cut all the meat in fine even dice. 

Wash and clean the celery, dry it, and slice it in small 
pieces. Have an equal quantity of chicken and celery. 

Drain peas when cooked and chill thoroughly. 

Combine diced chicken, celery, and peas, and marinate 
with French dressing. Set where it can become well-chilled, and 
let stand 1 hour or until ready to serve. Then add mayonnaise 
dressing, and arrange on lettuce leaves, which have been cleaned, 
and crisped. (One pair sweetbreads cooked and diced, or ^ can 
mushrooms may be substituted for the peas. One-fourth can of 
chopped pimolas or pickles also make an attractive addition to 
the salad.) 

Mock Mayonnaise salad dressing may be thinned with 
whipped cream and substituted for French and Mayonnaise 
dressings. Serves 20 to 24. 

Tomato Jelly Salad 

2 tablespoons granulated 3 peppercorns 

gelatine 1 teaspoon sugar 

Yz cup cold water 1 slice onion 

1 can tomatoes 3 cloves 

1 piece bay leaf 2 teaspoons salt 

Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft. Cook the toma- 
toes and seasoning (except salt) for 20 minutes. Strain and add 
the salt. Pour the hot liquid over the softened gelatine; stir 



240 



until it is dissolved; then pour into custard cups which have 
been wet with cold water. Turn from mould and serve very 
cold on lettuce leaves with Mayonnaise dressing or Mock May- 
onnaise dressing. Serves 10 to 12. 

Cucumber Jelly Salad 

3 cucumbers, medium sized 1^ teaspoons tarragon 

2 tablespoons gelatine vinegar 

1 large or two small lemons, Salt 

juice Pepper 

Paprika 
Pare and grate the cucumbers; simmer 1 cup water 5 
minutes. Soak the gelatine in half cup cold water, add Yz cup 
boiling water; strain the hot cucumber liquor into it; add 
lemon juice, vinegar, and seasonings. Pour into a ring mould 
and chill. Serve with sliced tomatoes, nuts, celery, pimolas, 
or radishes. Dress with Mayonnaise or Mock Mayonnaise 
dressing. Serves 10 to 12. Pieces of fish may be put in the 
jelly just before it becomes set. 

Jellied Cabbage Salad 

Va, cup cold water ^ cup sugar 

2 cups boiling water ^ cup lemon juice 

2 tablespoons gelatine 2 cups shredded cabbage 

1 pimento, cut in strips 
Soften the gelatine in cold water, add the boiling water, 
and stir until the gelatine is thoroughly dissolved. Add the 
sugar and lemon juice. When the sugar is all dissolved, set 
aside to chill. When it begins to grow syrupy, stir in the 
shredded cabbage and sliced pimentoes. Chill thoroughly and 
when stiff turn from mould. Serve garnished with white 
leaves of the cabbage or in individual small cabbage leaves. 

Mint Jelly Salad 

2 bunches mint ^ cup cold water 

1 pint boiling water 3 lemons, juice 

2 tablespoons gelatine ^ cup sugar 



241 



Pour boiling water over mint and crush well. 

Soak gelatine in cold water. Add sugar and hot water in 
which mint has been crushed. Stir until sugar is dissolved, 
then add the lemon juice. Strain through a cheese cloth. 
Chill in moulds. Turn from moulds and serve as salad with 
lamb or mutton. Dress with Mayonnaise or Mock Mayonnaise 
dressing. Serves 12 to 16. 

Fruit Salad 

2 oranges ^ recipe Cream, Mayon- 

2 bananas naise, or Mock 

12 English walnuts ' Mayonnaise dressing 

1 head lettuce 

Wash and crisp the lettuce. Peel oranges, cut in slices, 
remove seeds, then cut slices into small pieces. Peel bananas, 
and cut crosswise into thin slices; break half the nut-meats 
into small pieces. Arrange lettuce for individual serving, 
into each lettuce cup put a layer of oranges, nuts and bananas. 
Dress with mayonnaise, mock mayonnaise, or cream dressing. 
Garnish with whole nut meats. Serve at once. Serves 8 to 10. 

Grape-fruit, grapes, canned pineapple, peaches, pears, 
or cherries may be combined for fruit salads. 

Apple Salad 

2 cups apple, cut in small 1 head lettuce 

dice 1 cup Cream or Mayonnaise 

1 cup celery dressing 

1 2 English w^alnuts 
Wash and crisp the lettuce. Wash and scrub the celery, 
dry thoroughly and cut into small pieces. Wash, quarter, core, 
and pare the apples, and cut into small pieces. Chop the nut 
meats fine. Combine the celery, apple, and nuts with enough 
salad dressing to moisten thoroughly, and arrange on a bed of 
lettuce. Serve at once. Serves 8 to 10. 



242 



Pineapple Salad 

1 head lettuce Salt 

1 can sliced pineapple Cayenne or red pepper 

1 cake cream cheese 1 recipe French dressing 
y^ cup chopped nuts 

Wash and crisp the lettuce. Drain the slices of pineapple. 
Cream the cheese, add the nuts and salt, shape into balls. Ar- 
range the pineapple on a bed of lettuce. In the center of each 
round put a ball of cream cheese. Sprinkle with red pepper 
and cover with French dressing, which has been made with 
lemon juice, or dress with mayonnaise. Serves 6 to 8. 

Frozen Fruit Salad 

Prepare a combination of cooked and citrus fruits as for 
fruit salad or fruit cocktail, sweeten slightly and add one table- 
spoon softened gelatine for every quart of the mixture. Pour 
into an ice cream freezer and surround with chopped ice and 
coarse salt, using one-half as much salt as ice. Let stand for 
two or three hours opening the can to stir the mixture once or 
twice during the period of freezing. When frozen stiff, serve 
on lettuce leaves with mayonnaise dressing. 

The mixture may be varied by adding whipped cream or 
cooked salad dressing before freezing. 



CAKES 

There are two general classes of cakes — Sponge Cakes 
and Butter Cakes. 

Sponge Cakes are made light wholly by the presence of 
eggs lightly beaten and are usually made without baking pow- 
der, butter, or liquid. Sponge cakes include: 

Sponge Cake proper, made with the whole egg. 

Sunshine Cakes, in which the whites and only a few of 
the yolks are used. 

White Sponge Cakes or Angel Food, in which only the 
whites of eggs are used. 

Mock Sponge Cakes contain some milk, water, or baking 
powder. 

Butter Cakes are made with butter and resemble other bat- 
ters, except that the butter, sugar, and eggs are usually larger 
in amount, and the texture of the baked batter is much finer 
and more tender than in muffins and quick breads. 

Rules for Cakes 

No. I Pans — For butter cakes, the pans may be thoroughly 
greased with the same kind of fat that is to be used in the 
mixture, or sprinkled with flour or lined with greased paper. 

For sponge cakes the pans should be clean, smooth, and 
dry. 

No. II Materials — Pastry flour should be used in all cakes. 
If bread flour must be used, make the measure scant. 

Fine granulated sugar, good butter or other sweet fat, and 
fresh eggs should be used. 

No. Ill Utensils — Use an earthen bowl, never a tin basin 
for mixing cakes. Stir with a wooden spoon or spatula, and 
use a dover egg beater or wire whip for beating. 

No. IV Method of Combining — The method of mixing 

243 



244 



cake will vary with the materials and the proportions in which 
they are used. 

In general sponge cakes are combined by cutting and fold- 
ing all the other ingredients into well-beaten egg whites; butter 
cakes are combined by adding all other ingredients to well- 
creamed fat. 

No. V Oven — The oven should be hot enough to brown a 
small piece of white unglazed paper to golden brown or Manila 
color in — 

2}^ minutes for layer cake 

3 minutes for chocolate cake and ginger bread. 
3^ minutes for loaf cake. 

4 minutes for sponge cake. 

5 minutes for Angel Food Cake and Meringues. 

No. VI Baking — The time for baking will vary with the 
size, shape, and kind of cake. 

Sponge cake should cook from 40 minutes to 1 hour. 

A butter cake should cook — 

20-30 minutes in a shallow layer pan. 

20-25 minutes in individual muf&n pans. 

40-60 minutes in a loaf pan. 

Tests for baking — 

1 The cake shrinks from the sides of the pan. 

2 The crust springs back when touched with the finger. 

3 The loud ticking sound ceases. 

4 A needle will come out clean if the cake is pierced. 

5 The cake is nicely browned. 

No. VII Care After Baking — When a butter cake is re- 
moved from the oven, let it stand in the pan about 3 minutes, 
then loosen with a spatula, and turn it gently on to a wire cake 
cooler. Remove paper and leave until cool. Do not handle the 
cake while hot. 

A sponge cake should be left in the pan until cold. Invert 



245 



the pan so that the air can pass around it. When cooled, 
loosen well with a spatula. 

Keep in a clean, ventilated tin box in a cool, dry place. 

Yellow Cake No. 1 

^ cup butter or oleomar- 2 teaspoons baking 

garine powder 

1 cup sugar 1 >^ cups flour 

2 eggs iy2 teaspoons flavoring or 
^ cup milk 1 teaspoon spice 

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, mix well. Add 
the well-beaten yolks of eggs, then the flour and baking powder 
alternately with the milk. Then add flavoring and cut and 
fold in whites of eggs, carefully. Turn into two buttered 
layer cake pans and bake at once in a moderately hot oven. 

For chocolate cake 2 ounces of melted chocolate may be 
added after the yolks of eggs. Serves 16 to 20. 

Yellow Cake No. 2 

^ cup butter or oleo- % cup milk 

margarine 2 cups flour 

1 ^ cups sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 

4 eggs 1 teaspoon flavoring 

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then add the 
eggs which have been well-beaten together without separating. 
xA.dd the flour and baking powder (sifted together) alternately 
with the milk ; then add the flavoring ; beat well. Bake in two 
deep layer cake pans, or in a loaf pan, or in muffin tins, in a 
moderately hot oven. Serves 16 to 20. 

White Cake No. 1 

^ cup butter or oleo- 4 teaspoons baking powder 

margarine ^ cup milk 

1 cup sugar 4 egg whites 

2 cups flour y2 teaspoon almond flavoring 
Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually; add the flour 



246 



and baking powder alternately with the milk. Cut and fold in 
the whites of eggs. Add the flavoring. Turn into buttered 
pans and bake at once in a moderately hot oven. Serves 16 to 20. 

White Cake No. 2 

^ cup butter or oleo- 2 3^ cups flour 

margarine 3 teaspoons baking powder 

1 ^ cup sugar 6 egg whites 

^ cup milk Yz teaspoon flavoring 

Cream the butter, add the sugar and beat well. Add the 
milk and flour alternately (having added the baking powder to 
the last cup of flour). Fold in well-beaten whites carefully. Bake 
in buttered loaf pans 45 to 50 minutes, or in three round tins 
25 to 30 minutes. Frost with boiled icing. Serves 16 to 20. 

White Cake Without Eggs 

4 tablespoons butter 4 teaspoons baking powder 

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla or ^ 

1 cup milk teaspoon nutmeg 

2 cups flour 

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Then add 
the flour, which has been sifted with the baking powder, alter- 
nately with the milk. Add the vanilla or spice. Bake in small 
gem pans or in layer cake pans in a hot oven 15 to 20 minutes. 
Serves 12 to 16. 

Spiced Eggless Cake No. 1 

y^r cup oleomargarine or 2 3^ cups flour 

other fat 4 teaspoons baking powder 

1 cup sugar ^ teaspoon grated nutmeg 

1 cup milk Yz cup fruit 

Cream the fat, add the sugar. Mix and sift the dry in- 
gredients and add alternately with the milk. Add the fruit, to 
which a small portion of the flour has been added. Bake in a 
loaf pan in a moderately hot oven 40 to 50 minutes. Serves 
20 to 25. 



247 



Spiced Eggless Cake No. 2 

Yt, cup oleomargarine or 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

other fat. ^ teaspoon nutmeg 

1 cup brown sugar ^ teaspoon cloves 

1 cup sour milk Yz teaspoon salt 

2 cups flour 1 cup raisins 
1 teaspoon soda 

Cream the fat, add the brown sugar and mix well. Mix 
and sift all the dry ingredients with the flour and add to the 
sugar and fat alternately with the sour milk. Bake 40 to 50 
minutes in a loaf pan in a moderately hot oven. Serves 16 to 20. 

Gold Cake 

Yz cup butter Y2 teaspoon soda 

1 Y2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon cream of tartar 

8 egg yolks Yi cup milk 

2Y2 cups flour 1 tablespoon vanilla 

Mix the soda, flour, and cream of tartar and sift three 
times. Cream the butter and sugar. Beat the yolks until lemon 
color, add to the butter and sugar. Mix well. Add the milk 
and the flour alternately, add flavoring. Beat well. Bake in a 
loaf pan in a moderate oven 30 to 50 minutes, according to the 
thickness of the cake. Add Y2 cup of currants if desired. Serves 
24. 

Pound Cake 

1 cup of eggs 1 cup butter 

IY2 cups granulated sugar 2 cups flour 

Beat the eggs very light, add the sugar and continue beat- 
ing. Cream the butter, add the flour and beat very thoroughly. 
When all has been well-beaten, combine and beat well together. 
Continued beating improves the texture. Bake in a medium 
oven about 1 hour. Serves 24. 



248 



Sponge Cake 

6 egg yolks 6 egg whites 

1 cup sugar 1 cup flour 

1 tablespoon lemon juice j4, teaspoon salt 
^ lemon rind, grated 

Beat the yolks until thick and lemon-colored, add the 
sugar gradually, beating meantime, then add the lemon juice 
and rind, and carefully fold in whites of egg (beaten until 
stiff and dry). When the whites are partially mixed with the 
yolks, lightly cut and fold in flour, mixed and sifted with 
the salt. Bake in an unbuttered pan, in a slow oven for 1 hour. 
Serves 16 to 20. 

Water Sponge Cake (Mock Sponge Cake) 

2 eggs Ys cup cold water 

1 cup sugar 1^ cups flour 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Beat the yolks of the eggs very thoroughly. Add the sugar, 
lemon juice, and water, continuing beating. Then cut and 
fold in the flour and baking powder and the whites of eggs 
carefully. Bake in individual pans or in a loaf pan in a 
moderate oven. Serves 8 to 12. 

Washington Pie 

3 eggs }i teaspoon salt 
1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 

I'Y tablespoons milk ^ pint whipped cream 
1 cup flour 

Beat egg yolks well, add the sugar, then the milk. Fold in 
the sifted flour, salt and baking powder alternately with the 
well-beaten egg whites. Bake in a paper-lined, round, layer 
cake pan in a moderate oven 30 to 35 minutes. Just before 
serving cover with whipped cream. Serves 8 to 10. 



249 



Jelly Roll 

3 eggs 1 teaspoon baking powder 

1 cup sugar % teaspoon salt 

y2 tablespoon milk 1 cup flour 

1 tablespoon melted butter 
Beat the egg yolks until thick and lemon-colored, adding 
the sugar gradually, beating meanwhile. Add the milk. Fold 
in the stiffly-beaten whites of eggs. When whites are partially 
mixed with yolks, lightly fold and cut in the flour mixed and 
sifted with the salt and baking powder. Add the butter last. 
Spread even and thin in a buttered pan and bake 12 minutes in 
a moderate oven. Take from oven, turn on to a paper which has 
been sprinkled with powdered sugar. Cut off dry crusts at 
sides and ends, then spread with jelly or jam and roll quickly 
while still warm. Wrap with paper to keep in shape. Serves 
3 to 10. 

White Sponge Cake or Angel Food 

1 2 egg whites 1 }^ teaspoons cream of 

\y2 cups sugar (measured tartar 

after sifting) 1 teaspoon vanilla 

1 cup and 1 tablespoon 
flour 

Sift the sugar 5 times and sift the flour and cream of tartar 
together 5 times. Beat the eggs to a foam, but not until stiff. 
Sift in the sugar, slowly beating all the time. Take care not to 
make the mixture stiff. Sift in the flour slowly, mixing it with a 
light, folding motion. Add the vanilla. All the work must be 
done quickly and lightly. Bake in an unbuttered Turk's-head 
pan, in a slow oven for 50 to 60 minutes. Test the oven care- 
fully, for the oven door should not be opened for the first 20 
minutes after the cake goes in. Remove the cake from the oven 
and place upside down on a cake cooler until cake is cold. Then 
loosen carefully with a spatula. Serves 20. 



250 

Sunshine Cake 

1 1 egg whites 1 cup flour 

1^ cups sugar 1 teaspoon cream of tartar 

3 egg yolks 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Beat the egg whites to a stiff froth, add sugar (which has 
been sifted three times) gradually and continue beating. Cut 
and fold in the well-beaten yolks carefully, add the flour 
(which has been sifted five times with cream of tartar) gradually, 
add flavoring, and when well-mixed turn into an ungreased 
Turk's-head pan and bake in a slow oven 50 to 60 minutes. 
Remove from oven and place pan upside down on a cake cooler 
until cake is cold, then loosen carefully with a spatula. Serves 20. 

Spice Cake 

1 cup butter or other fat 1 teaspoon cloves 

3 cups brown sugar 1 teaspoon allspice 

4 eggs 2 teaspoons cinnamon 
1 cup sour milk 1 cup chopped raisins 
3 cups flour 1 cup chopped nuts 

1 teaspoon soda 
Cream the fat, add the brown sugar slowly, then add the 
well-beaten eggs. Sift the flour with the soda and spices, and 
add the flour alternately with the milk. Add floured raisins 
and nuts and pour into well-buttered loaf pans. Bake in a 
moderate oven 40 to 50 minutes. Serves 30 to 40. 

Ginger Bread 

%. cup butter or other fat 1 teaspoon ginger 

^ cup sugar ^ teaspoon cinnamon 

1 egg Salt 
3^ cup molasses 3^ cup milk (sour if 
^ teaspoon soda possible) 
1^ cups flour 
Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then the well- 
beaten egg. Add the molasses. Sift all dry ingredients to- 



251 



gether, and add alternately with the milk. Bake in a buttered 
tin or in gem pans in a moderate oven 25 to 35 minutes. Serves 
8 to 10. 

Pecan Cake 

Yz cup butter or oleo- 1 Y\ cup flour 

margarine 2^ teaspoons baking powder 

1 cup sugar ^ cup milk 

3 eggs % cup pecan nut meats 

Cream the fat, add the sugar gradually. Add the well- 
beaten egg yolks to the sugar and fat. Sift baking powder with 
flour and add alternately with the milk. Add the chopped nut 
meats. Lastly fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites and turn 
into two greased layer cake pans or into gem pans. Bake 25 to 
35 minutes in a moderately hot oven. Serves 16 to 20. 

Chocolate Cake 

2 oz. chocolate 4 eggs 

5 tablespoons boiling ^ cup milk 

water 3 teaspoons baking powder 

Yz cup butter 2 cups flour 

1 Yi cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Melt the chocolate over hot water and add boiling water. 
Cool. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, beating all 
the time. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, and add them to the 
butter and sugar; add the melted chocolate, then add milk al- 
ternately with the flour which has been sifted with the baking 
powder. Add the vanilla. Give all a vigorous beating. Beat 
the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and cut and fold them into 
the mixture quickly and lightly. Turn into two greased layer 
cake pans, and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 35 minutes. 
Combine with chocolate filling. Frost with boiled frosting. 
Serves 20 to 24. 



252 



Filling For Chocolate Cake 

3^ tablespoons flour 1 egg yolk 

1 cup milk Yz cup sugar 

1 oz. chocolate 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Mix the flour and ^ cup sugar. Moisten with a little cold 
milk, and cook in the hot milk 20 minutes. Melt the chocolate 
over hot water; add 1 tablespoon hot water to chocolate, and 
heat until it is smooth. Beat yolk of the egg and add remain- 
ing sugar to it, add chocolate, then add gradually the hot milk 
and flour. Return to double boiler, and cook over hot water for 
5 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the fire, and when 
cold add vanilla. Use egg white for boiled frosting. 

SMALL CAKES AND COOKIES 

Any cake batter may be baked in muffin tins to make 
small individual cakes to be served as tea cakes. These will 
require a hotter oven than loaf and layer cakes, and can be 
baked in a shorter time. 

Batters for butter cakes may also be used for drop cakes 
or cookies by adding more flour to make the batter the consis- 
tency of a very soft dough, almost as soft as for baking powder 
biscuits. Cookies must be handled lightly and carefully and 
cooked quickly so that they will not dry out. They must be 
carefully watched to avoid burning any part. The time for 
baking will vary from 10 to 15 minutes according to the thick- 
ness of the cooky. 

If a large amount of butter is used, the cooky will be crisp 
and tender. A smaller amount of butter and a greater amount 
of liquid give a softer cooky. Cookies become softer with keep- 
itig, especially if kept in a stone jar or if a piece of bread is 
kept with them. If cookies are hard and dry, too much flour 
has been used. 



253 



Cookies 

1 cup butter or oleo- 3 cups flour 

margarine 3 teaspoons baking powder 

1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon cinnamon 

2 eggs j/2 cup sugar 
J4 cup milk 

Cream the butter, add the sugar, and the well-beaten eggs. 
Then add the milk alternately with the flour (sifted with the 
baking powder). Mix to the consistency of a soft dough, adding 
more milk if necessary. Roll lightly, cut in shapes, and dip 
in the ^2 cup sugar and cinnamon that have been sifted to- 
gether. Place on buttered sheets, and bake in a hot oven 
about 10 minutes. Slip from the pan and lay on a cake cooler: 
To make a softer cooky, use only j/2 cup butter in the recipe. 
(3 dozen to 4 dozen.) 

Peanut Cookies 

2 tablespoons butter or 2 tablespoons milk 

oleomargarine ^ cup finely chopped 

%. cup sugar peanuts 

1 egg ^ teaspoon lemon juice 

1 teaspoon baking powder 2 doz. whole peanuts, 

y% teaspoon salt shelled 
y2 cup flour 

Cream the butter, add the sugar, and egg well-beaten. 
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, add to the first mixture, then 
add the milk, peanuts, and lemon juice. Drop from a teaspoon 

onto an unbuttered sheet, an inch apart, and place ^^ peanut on 

top. Bake 12 to 15 minutes in a moderate oven. (2^^ dozen to 
3 dozen.) 

Chocolate Cookies 

2 egg whites 2 oz. grated chocolate 

1 cup powdered sugar 1 cup baker's bread crumbs 

1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Beat egg whites to a stiff froth, add sugar gradually, and 



254 



continue beating. Mix grated chocolate, cinnamon, and bread 
crumbs together, add gradually to eggs and sugar, then add 
vanilla. Drop from a teaspoon on to thin wafers. Bake in a 
moderate oven 20 minutes. (1^ dozen to 2 dozen.) 

Ideal Cookies 

3^ cup butter ^ cup milk 

2 cups sugar 2 teaspoons baking 

2 teaspoons cinnamon powder 

^ nutmeg, grated Flour 
2 egg 

Cream the butter, add the sugar with the cinnamon and 
nutmeg, then add the well-beaten eggs. Beat well, add milk 
and 1 cup flour sifted with baking powder, and enough more 
flour to make a dough that can be handled. Flour the hands 
and shape bits of dough in balls, roll each ball in granulated 
sugar, place on a well-greased pan some distance apart, and 
bake in a moderate oven. (3 dozen to 4 dozen.) 

Bran Cookies 

Yz cup fat 1 cup white flour 

1 cup brown sugar 5^ teaspoon salt 

2 eggs 4 teaspoons baking powder 
y^ cup milk or more 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

1 cup bran 1 cup raisins 

1 cup oatmeal 

Cream the fat, add the sugar and well-beaten eggs. Then 
add the dry ingredients alternately with the milk. Keep the 
batter thick enough to retain a round shape on the pan when 
dropped from the spoon. Add raisins. Place on well-greased 
sheets and bake in a moderate oven 12 to 15 minutes. Makes 
4 dozen. 



255 

Ginger Cookies 

3/2 cup butter 1/3 teaspoon cinnamon 

^ cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon soda 

1 cup molasses 2^ cups powdered sugar 
y^ cup water 34 cup milk or water 

1 quart flour , (heated) 

2 teaspoons ginger 3^ teaspoon vanilla 

Cream the butter; add the sugar and molasses; sift the 
ginger, cinnamon and soda with the flour and add alternately 
with the water to the butter and sugar. Let stand over night. In 
the morning roll out about ^ of an inch thick and spread on 
the bottom of large baking sheets. Bake in a moderately hot 
oven from 10 to 15 minutes. While the cookies are baking, 
make a frosting of the powdered sugar, hot milk and vanilla. 
Spread this on the cookies as soon as they come from the oven; 
then cut in 3 inch squares for serving. Makes 3 or 4 dozen. 

Oatmeal Cookies 

^ cup butter or oleo- ^ teaspoon salt 

margarine % teaspoon soda 

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon cream of tartar 

2 eggs 2 cups flour 

j4- Q^P sour milk or more 1 % cups rolled oats 

1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 cup chopped raisins 

Cream the butter, add sugar, then add well-beaten eggs. 
Sift cinnamon, salt, soda and cream of tartar with flour, and 
add alternately with milk, beat well, then stir in rolled oats 
and raisins. The batter should be stiff enough to retain its 
shape. Put by the teaspoonful on to well-greased pans some 
distance apart, and bake in a moderate oven 12 to 15 minutes. 
(2^ dozen to 3 dozen.) 



256 



Fruit Cookies 

1 cup butter or oleomargarine ^ teaspoon nutmeg 

2 cups sugar ^ teaspoon soda 
2 eggs Flour 

1 cup sour milk 1 cup chopped raisins 

1 teaspoon cloves 1 cup chopped nuts 

4 teaspoons cinnamon 

Cream the butter, add the sugar, and the well-beaten eggs. 
Sift spices and soda with 2 cups flour, and add alternately 
with the milk. Then add the raisins and nuts, and enough 
more flour to make a stiff batter. Put by the teaspoonful on 
well-greased baking pans some distance apart, and bake in a 
moderate oven 12 to 15 minutes. (3 dozen to 4 dozen.) 

Ginger Drop Cakes 

%. cup butter 1 cup molasses 

^ cup sugar 1 teaspoon soda 

1 teaspoon ground cloves Salt 

1 teaspoon cinnamon 2^ cups flour 

1 tablespoon ginger 1 cup boiling water 

2 eggs 

Cream the butter, add sugar mixed with spices, then add 
the well-beaten eggs. Add molasses, then flour (well-sifted 
with soda and salt) alternately with boiling water. 

Pour in gem pans which have been greased and well- 
dusted with flour. 

Bake 20 to 30 minutes in a hot oven. (2 dozen.) 

If desired the mixture may be used for cookies. Then 
use only a small amount of water, keeping the batter stiff 
enough to retain its shape and put by the teaspoonful on to 
well-greased baking pans some distance apart and bake 12 to 
15 minutes. 

Lady Fingers 

3 egg whites Ys cup flour 
Yz cup powdered sugar Salt 

2 egg yolks Y teaspoon vanilla 



:57 



Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff and dry, add the 
sugar gradually, and continue beating, add the yolks of eggs 
beaten until thick and lemon-colored, then the vanilla. Fold in 
the flour which has been sifted with the salt. Put the mixture 
into a pastry bag, and shape 4^^ inches long and 1 inch wide, 
on a tin sheet covered with unbuttered paper. Sprinkle with 
powdered sugar and bake 8 minutes in a moderate oven. Re- 
move from the paper with a knife. Brush halves with an egg- 
white, slightly beaten, and fasten together. (Ij4 dozen) 

The mixture may also be baked in the form of small round 
cookies. 

Fondant Cakes 

Cut pound or gold cake in small shapes — hearts, rounds, 
diamonds and crescents. Fasten cakes securely on a fork and 
dip tops into melted fondant flavored and colored as desired. 
Use trimmings of cake in Cabinet Pudding. (See uses for 
white fondant) 

Marguerites 

1 dozen wafers 2 oz. chopped nuts 

2 egg whites (4 tablespoons) 
% cup powdered sugar ^ cup chopped raisins 

Beat the eggs until stiff, add ^ of the sugar gradually, 
and continue beating until mixture holds its shape, then fold in 
remainder of sugar and nuts and raisins chopped together. 
Spread on salt wafers and bake till a delicate brown, in a 
modetrate oven. Serves 12. 

Meringues 

4 egg whites 
15^ cup powdered sugar or 1 cup fine granulated sugar 



teaspoon vanilla 



Beat the egg whites with a flat egg beater until stiff adding 
% of the sugar gradually, continuing the beating until the 



258 



mixture will hold its shape. Then fold in the remaining 
sugar and add the flavoring. Shape in oval or round forms 
with a tablespoon or pastry bag on a wet board covered with 
buttered paper. Bake 30 minutes in a slow oven. Remove 
carefully from the paper. If to be used as cases in which to 
serve ice cream or other frozen dishes, scrape out the soft part 
with a spoon and return the case to the oven to dry out. Re- 
bake the soft portion to use as garnishing for desserts. 12 to 
16 cases. 



CAKE FROSTINGS 

Cakes are frosted for the purpose of decoration, to add to 
the flavor, and to preserve the moisture of the cake. 

Frostings are both cooked and uncooked. Uncooked frost- 
ings are made of powdered or confectioner's sugar, combined 
with water, milk, cream, egg, or butter. Cooked frostings are 
made from boiled syrups, plain or combined with egg white or 
prepared in the form of fondant. 

UNCOOKED FROSTINGS 

Eggf Frosting 

1 egg white 1 tablespoon lemon juice 

1 cup powdered sugar 

Put the unbeaten white of the egg into a bowl, add the 
sugar slowly, beating with a spoon. When all the sugar has been 
added, stir in the lemon juice. For chocolate frosting omit the 
lemon juice and add ^ ounce of melted chocolate and j/2 tea- 
spoonful vanilla. (1 cake.) 

Water Frosting 

1 cup powdered sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 

1 tablespoon boiling water or milk 

Stir the boiling water into the sugar and add the lemon 
juice, if too stiff add a little more boiling water. One-half 
ounce melted chocolate and }^ teaspoon vanilla may be used 
instead of the lemon. (1 cake.) 

Mocha Frosting 

% cup butter 2 squares chocolate 

iy2 cup powdered sugar (melted). 

1 or 2 teaspoons cocoa, or % cup boiled coffee (strong) 
Cream the butter, add a portion of the powdered sugar 
gradually, then add the chocolate and coffee. Continue adding 

259 



260 



powdered sugar until of the consistency to spread, using more 
chocolate or coffee as desired for flavor and color. (1 cake.) 

Ornamental Frosting . . 

3 egg whites 3 teaspoons lemon juice 

3 cups confectioners sugar 

Put the eggs into a large bowl. Add 1 tablespoon sugar 
and beat 5 minutes. Repeat until the mixture begins to thicken, 
then add the lemon juice. Continue to add sugar until the 
frosting will not run together when cut with a knife. Spread 
a thin layer of frosting on the cake, and when dry cover with a 
layer ^ inch thick. Add sugar more rapidly to the remainder 
of the frosting until it begins to harden on the spoon and bowl. 
Put a confectioner's tube into the end of a pastry bag. Partially 
fill the bag with frosting, twist the end slightly, and press the 
frosting through in the desired design. (1 large cake.) 

Orange Filling for Cake 

1 egg yolk 2 cups or more powdered 

Yz orange, rind and juice sugar 

Salt 

Beat egg yolk, add orange juice and rind. Add a sprinkle 
of salt. Add enough powdered sugar to make a thick filling. 
Use between layers of cake. (1 cake.) 

Orange Frosting 

Yz orange, rind and juice 1 tablespoon lemon juice 
Powdered sugar 

Add enough powdered sugar to orange and lemon juice 
to make a stiff icing. Use on top of layer cake with orange 
filling between the layers. (1 cake.) 

COOKED FROSTINGS 
Boiled Frosting 

1 cup sugar 1 egg white 

Yz cup boiling water 



261 



Boil sugar and water together until the syrup threads. 
Pour gradually on well-beaten white. Beat until it begins to 
thicken, then spread on cake. (1 cake.) 

Chocolate Frosting 

To the recipe for boiled frosting add 1 square chocolate 
which has been grated and melted. 

Maple Frosting 

1 pound soft maple sugar 2 egg whites 
Yz cup boiling water 

Add the water to the sugar and stir until the sugar is 
all dissolved. Boil slowly without stirring until the syrup will 
thread when dropped from the tip of a spoon. Pour slowly 
over the well-beaten egg-whites, and beat until thick; spread 
on cake. (1 large cake.) 

Brown Sugar Frosting 

2 cups brown sugar 2 tablespoons butter 

Yt, cup milk 

Boil all together slowly to the soft ball stage. Remove 
from the fire and beat until creamy, spread quickly on cake. 
(1 cake.) 

Caramel Frosting 

2 cups sugar Yz teaspoon butter 
Yz cup milk Y^. teaspoon vanilla 

Melt Y^- cup sugar to a caramel. Boil remaining sugar 
with the milk, add caramel and butter and boil slowly to the 
soft ball stage. Beat until creamy, add vanilla, spread quickly 
on cake. (1 cake.) 



PASTRY 

There are three classes of Pastry: plain, flaky, and puff 
paste. 

Plain and flaky paste are used for pies and tarts; puff 
paste is used for meat pies and patties. 

Plain paste is prepared by chopping the fat into the flour; 
flaky and puff paste are prepared by adding most of the fat in 
layers between the layers of dough, and combining them by 
rolling and folding. 

Ingredients Used in Pastry 

Pastry Flour, which takes up but a small quantity of water 
and contains less gluten than bread flour, should be used for 
pastry, as it gives a more tender crust. 

Fat or Shortening is used to make pastry tender. Butter 
gives the better flavor, lard makes a more tender crust and one 
of lighter color. Beef drippings, suet, and many prepared com- 
mercial fats may be used. In plain pastry from % to ^ as 
much fat as flour by measure, is used. Fat should be cold 
when used. 

Baking Powder. Pastry is made light by the expansion of 
cold air. Baking powder may be added to increase this light- 
ness and to make a cheaper paste as the per cent of fat can 
then be reduced. From ^ to 1 teaspoon baking powder may 
be used to each cup of flour. 

Salt is added to give flavor to the paste. 

Sugar is sometimes used if a sweet paste is desired. 

Water used should be very cold and just enough to hold 
ingredients together, as the presence of very much water makes 
the pastry tough. 



262 



263 



Utensils Used When Making Pastry 

A smooth, perfectly clean bread board is essential. A 
marble or metal board is sometimes used because it can be kept 
very cold. 

A smooth rolling pin that can be kept clean is desirable. 
Glass or china rolling pins are considered good because they can 
be kept very cold. 

Pie tins should be kept in good condition. Granite or 
aluminum are best, especially for fruit pies. Perforated tins are 
considered good for baking under crust thoroughly. 

Requisites in Making Pastry 

Keep paste cold, as it is considered essential that fat does 
not begin to melt until baking begins, the cold air will cause 
the paste to expand more in baking, and cold paste is easier to 
handle. 

Handle quickly and lightly so that the gluten is not de- 
veloped in the flour. 

Handle deftly so that there will be but little waste, and the 
board, the pin, and the person may be kept neat. 

General Rules for Making Pastry 

Sift all dry ingredients together. Chop in cold fat with a 
knife. Do not touch with hands. Do not chop fat very fine if a 
flaky crust is desired. 

Add cold water very carefully, a few drops at a time, and 
only enough to hold the dough together. 

Toss on a floured board with a knife so that the entire 
surface is slightly floured. Handle only the quantity that is to 
be used for one crust at a time. 

Roll lightly and quickly, in one direction only, and on 
one side only. 

Roll thin and as nearly the shape of the pan as possible. 



264 



Fold and lift the paste carefully to the pie plate, and trim one- 
fpurth inch larger than plate. 

, , ; Work scraps together lightly, keep them covered with a 
moist cloth, and very cold; they may be used another day. All 
pastry rolls more easily after chilling. 

, Left-over pastry may be used for cheese straws and tarts. 

Plain paste for a one-crust pie may be baked on the out- 
side of the pie tin, and carefully pierced with a fork before 
baking so that bubbles will not spoil the shape. 

Meat, oyster pies, and pies made with fresh fruit are best 
made without an under crust. They should be baked in an 
earthen or granite dish. 

The upper crust should always be perforated to allow the 
escape of steam. 

If the upper crust is brushed with beaten egg before bak- 
ing it will brown better, and have a shiny appearance. 

If the pie is a juicy fruit pie it is well to brush the under 
crust vidth beaten white of egg to prevent the juice making the 
crust soft. 

The lower crust should always be moistened around the 
edge with cold water, the upper crust placed over it, and the 
two pressed tightly together. 

A half-inch strip of paste may be placed around the edge 
of the under crust in order to hold the two more firmly together. 
This must be moistened with cold water before the upper crust 
is added. A strip of muslin wet in cold water may be placed 
around the edge of the fruit pie if the fruit is very juicy. 

Baking 

Pastry should be cooked in a hot oven 35 to 50 minutes. 
After pastry has been in the oven a few minutes, the heat 

After pastry has been in the oven a few minutes, the heat 
should be decreased. 

During the first five minutes in the oven pastry should 
rise and after it has risen it should begin to brown. 



265 



If the oven is not hot enough at first the fat may be 
melted, the pastry will not begin to cook, and the texture will be 
spoiled. 

Good pastry should be light, tender, flaky and thoroughly 
baked. 

Plain Paste 

1 34 cups pastry flour ^ teaspoon salt 

1 teaspoon baking powder ^ cup lard or other fat 
(if used) Cold water 

Enough for one^ crust. Double for a two-crust pie. 
Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Chop 
the cold fat in with a knife. Add enough cold water to make a 
stiff dough. Roll out lightly and quickly. Follow general rules 
for making pastry. 

Flaky Paste 

1 pound flour ^ pound butter or butter 

Yz teaspoon salt and lard 

1 cup cold water 

Sift the flour and salt, add Y^ of the butter, and chop it in 
well. Add just enough of the water to make a stiff dough, and 
knead until smooth. 

Divide the remaining fat in three portions. Roll the paste 
half an inch thick. Spread one portion of the butter on it, 
dredge lightly with flour, fold in three layers, roll out, fold and 
roll again. Spread on another portion of the butter, fold, and 
continue until all the butter is used, rolling and folding six 
times in all. Bake in a hot oven. (4 crusts.) 

Apple Pie 

1 double recipe plain paste 1 tablespoon lemon juice 
4 or 5 sour apples 1 tablespoon butter 

Yz cup sugar 1 tablespoon water (if apples 

34 teaspoon grated nutmeg are not juicy) 

Wipej quarter, pare, and core apples, and cut into eighths. 



266 



Line a pie tin with plain paste, fill with apples, heaping 
them with sugar, nutmeg, and lemon juice, and dot with bits of 
butter, add water, cover with an upper crust, and bake in a hot 
oven until apples are soft and crust is brown. Serves 6 to 8. 

Peach Pie 

Prepare as apple pie, using fresh or canned peaches. 

Rhubarb Pie 

Prepare as apple pie using 1 pint rhubarb, 1 cup sugar. 

Lemon Pie 

1 recipe plain paste 1^ lemons, juice and rind 
y^ cup flour 2 tablespoons butter 

iy2 cups sugar 4 tablespoons powdered 

1^ cups boiling water sugar 

2 eggs 

Mix the sugar and flour together. Add the boiling water 
slowly. Cook 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Separate the 
eggs. Beat the yolks of eggs until light. Add the cooked mix- 
ture to the egg, add butter, and lemon juice and rind, and 
cook until the egg thickens over hot water. When mixture is 
€Ool, turn into a baked crust. Cover with a meringue (made by 
beating the whites of eggs very light and adding the powdered 
sugar slowly), and bake until a delicate brown. Serves 6 to 8. 

Cream Pie 

1 recipe plain paste ^ cup sugar 

^ cup flour 1 teaspoon vanilla 

2 cups milk 1 ^^ teaspoons butter 

3 eggs 6 tablespoons powdered 
y^ teaspoon salt sugar 

Moisten the flour with a little cold milk, and add this to 
the remainder of the milk which has been scalded. Cook 15 
minutes in a double boiler. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, 
sugar and salt together. Add to them the hot liquid, and 



267 



butter, return to the double boiler, and cook until thickened, 
stirring constantly. Remove from the fire, add the flavoring, 
and turn into a baked crust. Cover with a meringue made of 
the egg whites and powdered sugar. Place in a hot oven a few 
minutes to brown. Serves 6 to 8. 

Banana Pie 

Follow the recipe for cream pie and line the baked crust 
with one or two sliced bananas before putting in the cream 
filling. Serves 6 to 8. 

Custard Pie 

1 recipe plain paste % teaspoon salt 

3 eggs 1 j4 cups milk 

4 tablespoons sugar Few gratings nutmeg 
Beat the eggs slightly, add the sugar, salt, and milk. Line 

a pan with plain paste, build up a fluted rim. Strain in the 
mixture and sprinkle with nutmeg. 

Bake in a quick oven at first, decrease heat and cook 30 
minutes. Serves 6 to 8. 

Butter Scotch Pie 

1 recipe plain paste 2 eggs 

6 tablespoons flour 4 tablespoons butter 

^ cup brown sugar 4 tablespoons powdered 
y2 teaspoon salt sugar 

2 cups milk 

Mix the flour, salt and ^ cup sugar. Add the milk 
which has been scalded, and cook in a double boiler 15 minutes. 
Caramelize j/4 cup brown sugar and add to it % cup water. 
Boil till the caramel is dissolved. Separate the eggs, beat the 
yolks, and add the cooked flour mixture. Add the butter and 
caramel. Return to the double boiler and cook till the eggs are 
thickened, stirring constantly. Then turn into a baked crust, 
cover with a meringue made of the egg whites and powdered 
sugar. Place in a hot oven a few minutes to brown. Serves 6 to 8. 



268 



Chocolate Pie 

1 recipe plain paste ^ teaspoon salt 
. ^ cup flour 3 eggs 

2 cups milk 1 tablespoon vanilla 

4 tablespoons grated Speck of cinnamon 

chocolate 6 tablespoons powdered 

% cup sugar sugar 

Mix the flour with one cup of cold milk, add slowly to the 
remainder of the milk, which has been scalded, and cook 20 
minutes. Melt the chocolate, add half the sugar, and add to 
the flour and milk. Add remaining sugar and salt to the well- 
beaten egg yolks. Then pour the cooked mixture over the eggs, 
return to the double boiler and cook a few minutes. 

Pour into a baked crust. Cover with a meringue made of 
the egg whites and powdered sugar, and brown in the oven. 
Serve cold. Serves 6 to 8. 

Pumpkin or Squash Pie 

1 recipe plain paste %. teaspoon cinnamon 

1 ^ cups steamed and ^ teaspoon nutmeg 

strained pumpkin or ^ teaspoon salt 

squash 2 eggs 

y2 cup sugar 1^ cup milk 

54 teaspoon ginger 
Line a pie plate with plain paste. 

Combine the other ingredients in the order given, add the 
eggs well beaten. Pour into the lined pie plate and bake in a 
slow oven 35 to 40 minutes. Serves 6 to 8. 

Sweet Potato Pie 

1 recipe plain paste 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

2 cups sweet potatoes 1 teaspoon nutmeg 
1 Yz cups milk y2 teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons butter 1 lemon, juice 

1 cup sugar 2 eggs or more 

Scald the milk, add to the mashed potatoes. Add the 



269 



butter, sugar, spices, and well-beaten eggs. Cook as a soft cus- 
tard until slightly thickened. Then pour into a baked crust 
and bake in a moderate oven till firm. Serves 6 to 8. 

Rhubarb and Raisin Pie 

1 double recipe plain paste 1 lemon, juice and rind 

1 cup raisins 1 egg 

1 cup fresh rhubarb 1 tablespoon butter 

1 cup sugar 
Stone the raisins and chop raisins and rhubarb till very 
fine. Add sugar, lemon jui.^e. and rind, then well-beaten egg, 
and butter. 

Bake in two crusts in a moderate oven 45 minutes. Serves 
6 to 8. 

Cranberry and Raisin Pie 

Substitute 1^ cups fresh cranberries and ^4 cup water for 
rhubarb in the recipe for rhubarb and raisin pie. 

Meat Pie 

Fill a baking dish with any meat which has been prepared 
as a well-seasoned stew, cover with grav}', and over the top 
put a covering of plain or flaky pastry in which several in- 
cisions have been made. Around the edge fit a rim, scallop 
neatly, and bake in a moderate oven 35 to 40 minutes, till 
crust is well-puffed, and bro\^^l. Meat pie may also be made 
mth biscuit crust. 

Tarts 

Prepare plain or flaky pastr}' using from 2 to 3 cups flour. 
Line muffin tins wdth pastr\\ Bake in a moderate oven 30 min- 
utes. Fill with gooseberry jam, currant jelly or other preserve. 



270 



Hickory Nut Tarts 

2 or 3 recipes plain paste 1 cup hickory nut meats, 

3 eggs chopped 

1 cup sugar 1 cup stoned raisins, chopped 

2 tablespoons cream 4 tablespoons powdered sugar 
1 tablespoon lemon extract 

Separate the eggs, beat yolks with one white, add the 
other ingredients in order given. Line muffin tins with pastry, 
partially fill with hickory nut preparation, and bake half an 
hour. Then cover with a meringue made of 2 egg whites and 
the powdered sugar. Return to the oven to brown the meringue. 
Serves 20 to 24. 

Cream Puffs 

1 cup hot water 1 Yz cups pastry flour 
Yz cup buttei 5 eggs 

Heat the butter and water until the water boils. Add the 
flour all at once and mix thoroughly. Cook until it forms a 
ball, and whep cool add the eggs unbeaten and one at a time. 
Beat until thoroughly mixed. Drop by tablespoonful on but- 
tered baking sheets, and bake in a hot oven 25 to 30 minutes. 
When cold make an opening with a round pastry tube, and 
fill with cream. Serves 1*6 to 20. 

Cream Filling 

^/t, cup flour y^ teaspoon salt 

2 cups milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 

3 eggs 1 Yz teaspoon butter 
Yi cup sugar 

Moisten the flour with a little cold milk, scald the re- 
mainder of the milk, and add the flour mixture slowly. Cook 15 
minutes in a double boiler, beat the eggs, sugar and salt to- 
gether. Add to them the hot liquid and butter, return to the 
double boiler, and cook until the egg thickens, stirring con- 
stantly. Remove from the fire; when cool add flavoring. 



271 



Chocolate Eclairs 

Prepare cream puff recipe, shape in long narrow puffs. 
Bake in a hot oven 25 to 30 miuntes then glaze with chocolate 
frosting. Serves 12 to 18. 

Chocolate Frosting for Eclairs 

^ square chocolate ^ teaspoon butter 

3/2 cup cream or milk Confectioner's sugar 

Salt Yo teaspoon vanilla 

1 egg yolk 

Melt the chocolate over hot water; add the cream or milk 
gradually; beat the egg and salt; add the hot milk and butter 
gradually. Cook till thickened, then remove from the fire, and 
add sugar until of consistency to spread; then add the flavoring. 

Doughnuts 

1 pint flour 1 egg 

4 teaspoons baking powder ^ to ^ cup milk 
y^ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon butter 

Yz cup sugar 
Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Add ^ cup milk to the 
well-beaten egg, then add to the dry ingredients, adding enough 
more milk to make the dough just soft enough to handle; add 
the melted butter. Take a small portion at a time, knead until 
smooth, then roll out Yz inch thick. Cut with a ring cutter; 
put scraps with another portion, and roll again. When all are 
rolled fry in deep fat; turn when brown; when done drain on 
paper. Serves 20 to 24. (See directions for cooking in deep fat). 

Raised Doughnuts 

1 cup milk Y^ cup butter and lard 
^ to 1 cake yeast 1 cup brown sugar 

Y\ cup lukewarm water 2 eggs 

1 teaspoon salt ^ grated nutmeg 

Flour 
Scald the milk. Cool, and when lukewarm add the yeast 



272 



cake, softened in the lukewarm water. Add the salt and flour 
to make a stiff batter. Let rise over night. In the morning add 
the softened butter, the sugar, eggs, and nutmeg; add enough 
flour to make a stiff dough. Knead well. Let rise again, then 
turn onto a board, roll three-fourths inch thick, cut with a bis- 
cuit cutter and shape with hands until round. Leave on board 
to rise; fry in deep fat and drain on brown paper. Serves 20 
to 24. (See directions for cooking in deep fat.) 



DESSERTS 

Corn Starch Pudding 

34 cup sugar 4 cups milk 

5 tablespoons corn starch 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Add sugar to the corn starch and mix with 1 cup milk. 
Scald the remainder of the milk, add the corn starch mixture 
and stir until thickened, then cook for 20 minutes over hot 
water. Remove from the fire, strain, cool, and add the vanilla. 
One or two well-beaten eggs may be added just before the 
pudding has finished cooking. Chill before serving. Serves 8- 
to 10. 

Chocolate Corn Starch Pudding 

^ cup sugar 1 quart milk 

5 tablespoons corn starch 2 squares Baker's chocolate 

Add the sugar to the corn starch. Mix with 1 cup cold 
milk. Scald the remainder of the milk and add the corn starch 
mixture. Stir until thickened. Then cook 20 minutes over hot 
water. Melt the chocolate, add to the thickened milk. Pour into 
a pudding dish. Chill. Serves 8 to 10. 

Caramel Corn Starch Pudding 

2 cups brown sugar 3 cups milk 

1 boiling w^ater 1 egg 

5 tablespoons corn starch 

Heat the sugar until it becomes a light brown liquid. 
Add one cup boiling water slowly and stir until sugar is all 
dissolved. Add one cup cold milk slowly to the corn starch 
and stir until smooth. Heat remainder of the milk, add com 
starch, and stir until it begins to thicken. Add prepared cara- 
mel and continue cooking over hot water 20 minutes. 
Beat egg well, add hot pudding, strain, and cool. 

273 



274 



Serve cold in glasses with plain or whipped cream. Serves 
8 to 10. 

Note — One-quarter pound almonds, blanched and 
chopped, and added just before serving, make the pudding 
more attractive. 

Velvet Pudding 

1 Yz cups milk, scalded ^ cup cold milk 
Yz cup flour 1 egg 

3/2 teaspoon salt Yi teaspoon vanilla 
Yd, cup sugar 

Mix the salt, sugar, and flour with the cold milk. Pour 
the mixture slowly into the hot milk and stir 3 or 4 minutes. 
Then cover and cook over hot water 20 minutes. Pour over 
the well-beaten yolk of egg, cook a few minutes longer, then add 
well-beaten white of egg and vanilla. Cool before serving. 
Serve with cream. Serves 6 or 8. 

Orange Pudding 

Prepare velvet pudding, using 2 eggs. Reserve the whites 
of the eggs for a meringue, adding four tablespoons of powdered 
sugar to them. Slice three or four oranges into a pudding dish, 
sprinkle with powdered sugar and cover with the cooked pud- 
ding. Put the meringue on top. Serves 8 to 10. 

Scalloped Apples 

3 cups chopped apples 2 cups stale bread crumbs 

Y2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons butter, melted 

Ya teaspoon cinnamon ^ lemon, juice and rind 

J4 teaspoon nutmeg Ya cup water 

Add sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and lemon rind to chopped 
apple. Add crumbs to melted butter. 

Line the bottom of a buttered baking dish with Ya ^^ 
crumbs, then add ^ the apples. Add Ya more crumbs and 



275 



the remainder of the apples, lemon juice, and water. Cover 
with buttered crumbs. 

Bake in a moderate oven IV2 hours. Cover first hour. 
Serves 6 to 8. 

Scalloped Rhubarb 

Follow the recipe for scalloped apple substituting 3 cups 
sliced rhubarb for the apple and adding i/^ cup more sugar. 

Chocolate Bread Pudding 

2 cups stale bread crumbs ^ teaspoon salt 

4 cups scalded milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 

2 squares Baker's chocolate 6 tablespoons powdered 
Yz cup granulated sugar sugar 

3 eggs 

Soak the bread crumbs in hot milk 30 minutes; melt the 
chocolate in a saucepan placed over hot water. Add one-half 
of the sugar and enough milk to make of consistency to pour. 
Add the mixture to the remaining sugar, salt, vanilla, and 
yolks of eggs, slightly beaten; turn into buttered pudding dish, 
and bake ^ hour in moderate oven. 

Remove from the oven fifteen minutes before serving and 
cover with a meringue made by beating the whites of the eggs 
very light and adding the powdered sugar. Return to the oven 
to brown slowdy. The meringue may be omitted and only two 
eggs used. These should be beaten without separating and com- 
bined with the mixture before cooking. Serves 8 to 10. 

Bread Pudding 

Use the recipe for chocolate bread pudding omitting 
chocolate, and using only ^ cup sugar. Add nutmeg or cinna- 
mon, or -/z cup seeded raisins, or currants, if desired. 

Queen of Puddings 

Use the recipe for chocolate bread pudding, omitting the 
chocolate, and adding grated rind of 1 lemon and 1^ table- 



276 

spoons lemon juice. Spread with jam or jelly just before 
putting on the meringue. 

Cabinet Pudding 

1 quart broken stale cake ^ cup raisins 

or bread Sugar 

3 whole eggs or 6 yolks 1 pint milk 

)4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Beat the egg and salt till very light, add the milk and 2 
teaspoonfuls sugar if cake is used, Y^ cup sugar if bread is 
used; add the vanilla. Grease a pudding mould, sprinkle the 
bottom with raisins, then add a layer of cake or bread, and 
repeat in layers until all are used. 

Pour the milk and egg over it. Let stand 15 minutes. 
Steam 1^2 hours or bake in a slow oven one hour. Serve 
with cream or a hot sauce. Serves 10 to 12. 

Prune Souffle 

y^ pound prunes 1 cup sugar 

6 egg whites Yz tablespoon lemon juice 

Pick over and wash the prunes. Soak several hours in 
cold water to cover. Cook slowly in same water till tender. 
Remove stones and chop prunes very fine. 

Beat the egg whites stiff, add the sugar, then add the 
chopped prunes, and lemon juice carefully. Pile lightly in a 
buttered baking dish. Bake in a moderate oven 20 to 30 
minutes. Serve hot with cream, sweetened and flavored with a 
little vanilla, or serve cold with whipped cream. 

Stewed apricots, peaches, rhubarb, strawberries, or other 
fruit may be substituted for prunes. Serves 6 to 8. 

Apple Snow 

2 apples 1 tablespoon powdered 
Yi tablespoon lemon juice sugar 

1 egg white 



277 



Cut 2 small apples into quarters and remove the cores, cook 
with a small amount of water until very soft, then drain and 
run though a fine sieve. Beat the white of the egg, add the 
sugar gradually, and slowly beat in the strained apple. Serve 
with cream. Serves 4 to 6. 

Banana Snow 

3 bananas 1 egg white 

1 teaspoon lemon juice ^ cup whipping cream 
^ cup powdered sugar 

Peel bananas, scrape surface carefully to remove cellulose, 
and cut in small pieces; add lemon juice and powdered sugar. 
Let stand ^ hour in a cool place and then mash with a wooden 
spoon. Add white of egg unbeaten and beat until light and 
fluffy. Fold in the whipped cream. Serve cold. Serves 6 to 8. 

Apricot Whip 

1 cup stewed apricots 2 egg whites 

y^ cup sugar 

Beat egg whites very light, add sugar gradually, then add 
the apricots which have been stewed until very tender. Beat 
thoroughly, then chill for serving. Serves 8 to 10. 

Puff Pudding 

2 tablespoons butter 4 eggs 

3 tablespoons flour 4 tablespoons sugar 
1 cup milk ^ teaspoon salt 

Prepare a white sauce with the butter, flour, and milk. 
Separate the eggs, beat the yolks well, add the sugar, salt and 
hot white sauce. When cool, cut and fold in the well-beaten 
whites, turn into a buttered baking dish, and bake slowly 25 
to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with a fruit sauce. 
Serves 6. 



278 



Prune Tapioca 

Yz pound stewed prunes 3 cups boiling water 

(15^ cups) Yz teaspoon salt 

1 cup tapioca ^ cup sugar 

3 cups cold water 1 lemon, juice 

Soak the tapioca in cold water 1 hour. Drain. Add the 
boiling water, salt, and sugar, and cook in double boiler till 
tapioca is transparent. Add the lemon juice. 

Stone the prunes and cut in halves, arrange on a buttered 
baking dish, pour the tapioca over them, and bake in a moderate 
oven 30 minutes. Serve hot or cold with cream or custard sauce. 
Serves 8 to 10. 

Apricot Tapioca 

Substitute stewed dried apricots for prunes in the recipe for 
prune tapioca. 

Apple Tapioca 

Substitute 3 cups sliced apple for prunes in the recipe for 
prune tapioca. 

Lemon Tapioca 

Omit prunes from the recipe for prune tapioca and use 
juice of 3 lemons, and 1 cup sugar. Stir until sugar is dis- 
solved. Chill. 

Pineapple Tapioca 

Substitute 1}4 cups shredded pineapple for prunes in the 
recipe for prune tapioca. Stir until well combined. Chill. 

Tapioca and Corn Meal Pudding 

1 quart boiling water ^ cup molasses 

Yz cup corn meal ^ cup raisins 
1 cup cold milk 1 teaspoon salt 

4 tablespoons tapioca 1 teaspoon ginger 

1 cup cold water 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

34 cup butter 2 eggs 

Yz cup sugar 



279 



Mix cold milk with the corn meal, add the boiling water, 
put in a double boiler and cook y^ hour. Then add the tapioca 
which has been softened in the cold water, the butter, sugar, 
molasses, raisins, salt, and spices. Beat eggs well, add the corn 
meal mixture, and pour into a buttered baking dish. Bake in 
a moderate oven one to one and one-half hours. Serve with 
hard sauce or vanilla. Serves 10 to 12. 

Tapioca Cream 

See custards. 

Strawberry Short Cake 

2 cups flour Yi cup milk 

4 teaspoons baking powder 1 egg 
y^ teaspoon salt 1 cup whipped cream 

1 tablespoon sugar 2 quarts sweetened straw- 

4 tablespoons butter or berries 

other fat 

Mix and sift all the dry ingredients and chop butter in 
well. Add y^ cup milk to the well-beaten egg and pour slowly 
into the first mixture, using as much more milk as is required 
to make a soft dough. Roll out on a board that is slightly 
floured. Cut in individual rounds, brush with milk and bake 
in a quick oven 12 to 15 minutes. Split, butter, fill, and cover 
with the sweetened crushed berries. Garnish the top with 
whole berries and whipped cream. Serves 8 to 10. 

Fruit Short Cake 

Other fresh or canned fruits may be substituted for 
strawberries in recipe for strawberry shortcake. 

Baked Apple Pudding 

4 or 5 large apples 1 teaspoon salt 

yz cup sugar 2 tablespoons butter 

1 cup flour y^ cup milk 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

Fill a granite pie dish with apples pared and sliced. 



280 



sprinkle with the sugar and bake them 20 minutes. 

Mix and sift the dry ingredients, chop the butter in finely, 
and add the milk gradually to make a soft dough. Cover the 
baked apples with the dough rolled ^ inch thick and bake 20 
minutes longer. Serve with hard sauce, creamy sauce, or cream. 
Serves 6. 

Apple Dumplings 

Use the recipe for baking-powder biscuits, roll ^2 inch 
thick and cut in squares. Place an apple, cored and pared, in 
the center of each square. , Fold the dough over the apples, and 
steam ^ hour or until the apples are soft. Brown in the oven 
after steaming if desired. This quantity makes 6 small dump- 
lings. Serves 6. 

Cottage Puddling 

%. cup butter or other fat 2^4 cups flour 

Yz cup sugar 4 teaspoons baking powder 

1 egg 1^ teaspoons salt 

1 cup milk 

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then add well- 
beaten egg. Add milk and flour (with which baking powder and 
salt have been sifted) alternately; turn into a buttered cake pan 
and bake 35 minutes. 

Serve with orange, vanilla, or lemon sauce. Serves 6 to 8. 

Cottage Fruit Pudding 

2 cups fresh fruit ^ teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons butter 1 ^ cup flour 

1 cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking 

1 egg powder 

lA cup milk 

Cover the bottom of a baking pan with fresh fruit, 
sweetened. Cover with the other ingredients prepared as a cake 
batter. Bake in a hot oven ^ hour. Serve with a hard sauce 
mixed with mashed fruit. Serves 8 to 10. 



281 



Indian Pudding 

1 cup corn meal V2 cup raisins 

1 cup cold milk or water 1 teaspoon salt 

1 quart boiling water 1 teaspoon ginger 

^ cup butter 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

5^2 cup sugar 2 eggs 

Yz cup molasses 

Mix the cold milk with the corn meal, add boiling water, 
and cook in a double boiler ^ hour. Then add butter, sugar, 
molasses, raisins, salt and spices. Beat eggs well, add the corn 
meal mixture and pour into a buttered baking dish. Bake in a 
moderate oven one to 1^ hours. Serve with hard sauce or 
vanilla sauce. Serves 10 to 12. 

Date Pudding 

1 cup chopped dates 2 tablespoons flour 

1 cup chopped nuts 1 teaspoon baking powder 

1 cup sugar 2 whole eggs 

Mix the nuts and dates. Add the sugar, flour, and baking 
powder that have been well mixed together. Add slowly to the 
well-beaten eggs. Bake ^ Hour in an earthen dish set in a pan 
of hot water. Serve with cream. Serves 6 to 8. 

Steamed Mixtures 

Use a mould or tightly-covered tin to hold mixtures for 
steaming. The mould should be well-greased ; if without a cover 
a piece of greased brown paper may be tied over the top. The 
mixture should be poured into the mould, covered, and put into 
a steamer over boiling water, or on a rack in a kettle of boiling 
water. Keep the water boiling all the time the mixture is cook- 
ing. The tirne for cooking will vary with the size of the mould 
and the nature of the mixture (1 to 6 hours.) 

To Prepare Raisins 

Prepare raisins for puddings by pouring boiling water over 



282 



them; then drain, dry, and stone them. If used for cake, they 
should be washed in cold water and dried on a towel, stoned 
and chopped or torn into pieces. Seedless or stoned raisins 
should be washed in cold water, picked over carefully, and 
dried on a towel. 

To Prepare Dried Currants 
Clean currants by placing them in a colander and shaking 
flour over them, then rub them carefully in the flour, put the 
colander into a pan of cold water and rinse them, changing 
water until it is clear, showing that the fruit is clean. Then 
dry the fruit in a very cool oven or in the sun. 

To Prepare Suet for Batters 

Pick suet over carefully, removing membranes. Sprinkle 
with flour and chop fine. 

Steamed Fruit Pudding (With Suet) 

1 pint flour % cup milk, if sugar is used 

4 teaspoons baking powder 3^ cup milk, if molasses is 
% teaspoon salt used 

^ teaspoon nutmeg ^ cup currants 

%. cup sugar or molasses ^ cup raisins 

^ cup beef suet (finely 
chopped) 
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, add the others in the 
order given. Put into a greased mould, and cover. Steam 1^ 
hours if in small moulds, 2^ hours if in large mould. Serves 8. 

Steamed Fruit Pudding (With Pork) 

2 cups flour ^ cup salt pork (chopped 

1 ^ teaspoons soda fine) 

^ teaspoon cinnamon 1 cup molasses 

^ teaspoon ginger 1 cup sour milk 

1 cup raisins 
Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Add the remaining in- 
gredients in the order given. Pour into a well-greased mould. 



283 



Cover and steam 3 to 4 hours. Serve with a hard sauce or 
creamy sauce. Serves 8 to 10. 

-s 
Graham Pudding 

2 cups graham flour 1 cup molasses 

2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 cup milk 

Yz a nutmeg 1 tablespoon butter (melted) 

1 teaspoon soda 1 cup raisins, stoned 

Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Add the remaining in- 
gredients in the order given. Pour into a buttered mould. Cover 
and steam 3 hours. Serve with egg sauce. Serves 8. 

Snow^ Balls 

3 eggs 1 cup sifted flour 

1 cup sugar 1 ^2 teaspoons baking powder 
3 tablespoons water 3 tablespoons powdered 

2 tablespoons lemon juice sugar 
Grated rind 1 lemon 

Beat the egg yolks until very light, add the sugar, water, 
lemon rind and juice. Then add the well-beaten whites of eggs 
and the flour and baking powder sifted together. Fold together 
carefully until well combined, then pour into well-buttered 
earthen cups and steam i^ hour. 

Sift the powdered sugar onto a plate. Roll the steamed 
puddings in the sugar and serve hot with a hot lemon sauce. 
Serves 8 to 10. 

Blackberry Pudding 

Yz cup butter 4 teaspoons baking powder 

Yz cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 

2 eggs 1 cup cold water 
2 cups flour 1 cup blackberries 
Combine as butter cake. 

Add the berries as it is turned into a buttered mould. 
Steam in a covered mould 1^^ hours or bake 25 minutes. 
Serve with hard sauce made b}' adding ^ cup crushed fruit to 



284 



the recipe for hard sauce (^ cup butter, 1 cup sugar, y^ cup 
crushed and sifted berries). Serves 8 to 10. 

Steamed Cranberry Pudding 

34 cup butter 1 ^ teaspoons baking powder 

Yz cup sugar 2^3 cup milk 

2 eggs 1 Yz cups cranberries 

2 cups flour 

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then add the 
well-beaten eggs. Mix and sift flour and baking powder and add 
alternately with the milk. Stir in berries (which have been 
washed), turn into a buttered mould, cover and steam 3 hours. 
Serve with cream. Serves 8 to 10. 

DESSERTS PREPARED WITH GELATINE 

Use \y2 tablespoons gelatine to 2 cups of liquid for a 
delicate jelly. 

Use 2 tablespoons gelatine to 2 cups of liquid for a stiff,, 
moulded jelly. 

Soak gelatine in cold water until it softens; add boiling 
water to dissolve it. Strain liquid through a cheese cloth which 
has been wet in hot water. 

If jellies are to be moulded, the moulds should be wet with 
cold water. 

Jellies should be placed near the ice to harden, or may be 
hardened quickly by surrounding with ice water. 

Lemon Jelly 

lYz tablespoons granulated 2 cups boiling water 

gelatine 1 cup sugar 

54 cup cold water ^ cup lemon juice 

Soak gelatine in cold water; add the boiling water, when 
gelatine is softened, add sugar and juice; strain; chill; 
serve cold in glass dish or turn from mould. Accompany with 



285 



plain or whipped cream. Vary by adding sliced fruits. Serves 
6 to 8. 

Orange Jelly 

1 ^ tablespoons granulated 1 cup sugar 

gelatine 3 tablespoons lemon juice 

%. cup cold water 1 ^ cup orange juice 

^ cup boiling water 

Soak the gelatine in cold water, add the boiling water; 
when gelatine is dissolved, add sugar and juice; strain; chill. 
Serve with plain or whipped cream. 1^ cups of any other fruit 
juice may be used. Serves 6 to 8. 

Coffee Jelly 

1^ tablespoons granulated 2% cups coffee (boiled or 
gelatine filtered) 

y^. cup cold water ^ cup sugar 

Soak the gelatine in cold water; add the boiling coffee 
and sugar; dissolve gelatine and strain; chill. Serve with plain 
or whipped cream. Serves 6 to 8. 

Fruit Jelly 

2 tablespoons granulated 3^ cup lemon juice 

gelatine 2 oranges 

34 cup cold water 2 bananas 

2 cups boiling water ^ cup canned fruit 
1 cup sugar 

Prepare as lemon jelly, when beginning to stiffen stir in 
the fruit and let stand till firm. Serve with cream. Serves 8 
to 10. 

Snow Pudding 

13^ tablespoons granulated 1 cup sugar 

gelatine 34 cup lemon juice 

34 cup cold water 3 egg whites 

1 cup boiling water 

Soak the gelatine in cold water, add boiling water, and 



286 



when dissolved, add sugar and juice. Strain into a large bowl 
and place in ice water to cool, stirring occasionally. Beat 
whites of eggs until light. When the jelly begins to thicken 
beat it well and add the egg whites. Beat mixture until smooth 
and nearly hard, then pour into a mould or glass dish. Chill; 
serve cold with custard sauce or whipped cream. Serves 8. 

Other fruit flavors may be substituted for the lemon juice 
in snow pudding. 

Custard Sauce 

3 egg yolks , 1 pint hot milk 

^ cup sugar ^ teaspoon vanilla 

j'i teaspoon salt 
Beat the yolks of eggs, add sugar, salt, and hot milk 
gradually. Cook over hot water until thickened, stirring con- 
stantly. Strain, flavor, chill, and serve with snow pudding. 

Pineapple Snow Pudding 

Follow recipe for Snow Pudding, using 2 tablespoons 
gelatine in place of 1^^ tablespoons gelatine, and add 1 cup 
grated pineapple just before beating. 2 tablespoons lemon juice 
will be sufficient. 

Coffee Cream 

1^ tablespoons granulated ^ cup sugar 

gelatine 1^ cup whipped or plain 

% cup cold water cream or milk 

y2 cup strong coffee 

Soak gelatine in cold water, add boiling coffee and sugar, 
stir till gelatine and sugar are dissolved, strain into an earthen 
or agate-ware dish, and place in ice water to cool, stirring 
occasionally. When the liquid acquires the consistency of syrup, 
beat well, add whipped cream, beat until it becomes thick, but 
not hard; then pour into a glass dish. If milk or plain cream 
is used it may be added as soon as the jelly is strained. Chill. 
Serves 6 to 8. 



287 



Marshmallcw Fancy 

1 cup sugar J4 cup cold water 

1 cup boiling water 4 egg whites 

1 lA tablespoons gelatine 3^ teaspoon vanilla 

Almond flavoring 
Boil sugar in water to form a thin syrup. Add gelatine 
which has been softened in the cold water. Heat until the 
gelatine is dissolved. Strain and chill until it begins to grow 
syrupy. Beat well and add well-beaten whites of eggs gradually. 
Flavor with vanilla and a few drops of almond flavoring. Beat 
until thoroughly cold and stiff. Then pile into a dish. Serve 
with whipped cream. Serves 8 to 10. 

Prune Whip with Gelatine 

4 tablespoons granulated 1 cup hot prune juice 

gelatine 1 cup prunes, stoned 

y2 cup cold water 1 lemon, juice and grated 

1 cup boiling water rind 

1 cup sugar 

Soften the gelatine with the cold water, add the hot water 
and hot prune juice. Stir until the gelatine is all dissolved. 
Add the sugar, prunes and lemon. Chill. W||en it begins to 
stiffen, beat until light. ^ cup whipped cream may be added 
if desired. Serves 8 to 10. 

Dried apricots, stewed plums, strawberries, raspberries, or 
other fruit may be used in the same way. If apricots or plums 
are used the lemon juice may be omitted. 

Orange Bavarian 

1 tablespoon granulated 1 small lemon (juice) 

gelatine 1 cup sugar 

"2 tablespoons cold water 4 eggs 

1 cup orange juice (2 to 3 6 sponge or lady fingers 
oranges) 
Cover gelatine with cold water. Let stand to soften. 
Squeeze juice from oranges and lemon. Heat orange and lemon 



288 



juice with ^ cup sugar. Beat yolks of eggs and add ^ cup 
sugar to them. Add hot juice slowly and then stir over hot 
water until the mixture thickens. Add softened gelatine, stir 
till all is dissolved, strain, cool till it begins to thicken, beat 
well. Add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Set in a pan of ice 
water and beat till thick enough to hold in shape. Turn into 
a mould lined with lady fingers and chill. Serves 8 to 10, 

Charlotte Russe 

1 tablespoon granulated ^ cup powdered sugar 

gelatine 1^ teaspoon vanilla 

%. cup cold water 1 pt. cream, whipped 

Ys cup hot water 6 lady fingers 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water until soft. Add the 
hot water and sugar. Strain. Place the bowl in a pan of ice 
water and stir constantly. \dd flavoring. When it forms a 
thick syrup beat thoroughly. Then add the whip from the cream 
one-third at a time. Arrange the sponge fingers one-half inch 
apart around the sides of a mould turning the crust out. Fill 
with the cream. When thoroughly chilled, turn out and serve. 
Serves 8 to 10. 

Caramel Charlotte 

1 tablespoon gelatine 1 cup cream 

^ cup cold water 1 teaspoon vanilla 

1 cup sugar 5 egg whites 

%'cup boiling water 

Soak the gelatine in cold water. Scald cream. Caramelize 
the sugar, add boiling water. Pour syrup over gelatine, stir 
until dissolved, add cream, strain into bowl, and place the 
bowl in ice water. Stir occasionally. When of the consistency 
of thick syrup, add vanilla, and beat well. Then add well- 
beaten egg whites and beat well together until ready to set, 
then pour into a wet mould. Chill. Serves 8 to 10. 



PUDDING SAUCES 

Hard Sauce 

y3 cup butter >4 teaspoon flavoring or 

1 cup powdered sugar ^4 teaSpoon nutmeg 

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually and beat until light 
and creamy. Add flavoring and beat again, chill. Serves 6 to 8. 

Lemon Sauce 

1 cup sugar 1 lemon (rind and juice) 

2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons butter 
2 cups boiling water 

Mix the sugar and flour thoroughly, then add boiling water 
slowly, and cook 15 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the 
lemon rind and juice, then the butter, and stir until the butter 
is melted; serve at once. If the sauce is too thick, add hot 
water. Serves 8. 

Vanilla Sauce 

% cup sugar 4 tablespoons butter 

2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon vanilla 

2 cups boiling w^ater 

^lix sugar and flour thoroughly, add boiling water slowly, 
and cook for 15 minutes, stirring constantly. Add butter, 
stir till melted, and add vanilla just before serving. Serves 8. 

Cream Sauce 

2 eggs 1 lemon (rind and juice) 

1 cup sugar 1 cup grated apple 

Beat the yolks and sugar, add rind and juice of lemon, 
then the beaten whites, and the apple gradually. Cook 3 minutes 
over boiling water, stirring constantly. Serves 8. 

Fruit Sauce 

2 tablespoons butter 2 egg whites 

1 cup po\\ iered sugar 1 pint berries or ^4 cup jam 

Cream the butter, add the sugar, and cream well together, 

then add the egg whites and beat thoroughly. Crush the berries 

289 



290 



and beat in just before serving or beat in the jam well. Serves 
6 to 8. 

Chocolate Sauce 

2 cups sugar ^ cup milk 

2 ounces chocolate 1 teaspoon vanilla 

2 tablespoons butter 

Melt the chocolate over hot water. Add the sugar, butter, 
and milk. Cook directly over the fire until it will form a soft 
ball when dropped into cold water. Remove from the fire, add 
the vanilla and serve hot on ice cream or on hot puddings. 
Serves 6 to 8. 

Fruit Sauce Thickened with Flour 

2 tablespoons flour 2 cups fruit juice (heated) 

%. cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter 

Mix the flour and sugar thoroughly, add the fruit juice 
slowly, and cook 15 minutes. ^ cup candied or preserved fruit, 
cut in small pieces, may be added. Add the butter just before 
serving. Serves 8. 

Egg Sauce 

3 egg yolks 1 or two egg whites 

Yz cup sugar 

Beat the yolks and sugar together. Heat over hot water, 
stirring until thickened. Beat in the whites (which have been 
beaten to a froth) just before serving. Serves 8. 

Orange Sauce 

^ cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter 

2y2 tablespoons flour 1^ tablespoons lemon juice 

1 cup orange juice ^^ orange rind 

Mix the sugar and flour, add the orange juice gradually, 
stirring constantly; boil 5 minutes, remove from the fire, add 
the butter, lemon juice, and orange rind. Serves 8. 



291 



Creamy Sauce 

1 cup sugar ^ tablespoon vanilla 

% cup water 2 eggs 

y2 tablespoon butter 
Boil the sugar and water to a syrup. Add the butter and 
vanilla. Just before serving add the eggs which have been 
beaten very thoroughly. Serves 12. 

Molasses Sauce 

1 cup molasses ]4, teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons vinegar 2 tablespoons butter 

Boil all together and serve hot with steamed or baked 
puddings. Serves 6 to 8. 

Nut Sauce 
1 cup brown sugar 1 tablespoon butter 

y^. cup water ^ cup chopped nuts 

Boil the sugar and water together for 15 or 20 minutes 
until the syrup begins to thicken. x\dd the butter and nuts. 
Serve hot with ice cream or hot puddings. Serves 6 to 8. 



FROZEN DISHES 

Purposes of Freezing 

The purpose of freezing is the extraction of heat from food 
in order to prepare an appetizing and cooling dish that will be 
refreshing to the body. 

The degree of heat at which food is served has much to 
do with making the food palatable, and when the temperature 
of the food is reduced to the freezing point there is a decided 
change in flavor. The proportion of sugar and flavoring used 
in a dish which is to be prepared by freezing must be about 
double that used in other desserts, as the organs of taste are 
less sensitive when chilled. 

Principles of Freezing 

The principle of freezing is extraction of heat through the 
melting of ice and the subsequent melting of salt — a double 
action. 

Salt has a strong affinity for water — thus salt is used with 
the ice, causing it to melt; but heat is necessary to change the 
ice from a solid to a liquid, and heat is drawn from the nearest 
substance, hence the mixture to be frozen is packed in a vessel 
made of some substance which is a good conductor (a metal 
pail) and the ice is surrounded by a non-conducting material 
(a wooden pail) so that the heat will not be drawn from the 
surrounding air. 

Value of Frozen Dishes 

Frozen dishes are refreshing to the body but retard diges- 
tion by lowering the temperature of the stomach. They are less 
harmful if used between meals because then they do not inter- 
fere with the digestion of other foods. They are often valuable 
in sickness in helping to cool the temperature of the body. 



292 



293 



Ice creams are all rich and nourishing, but fruit ices are 
merely refreshing to the body. 

Frozen dishes are used as appetizers, as a relish with meat 
or game, or as a dessert. 

Utensils necessary for preparing frozen dishes are: — an 
ice pick, burlap bag and mallet or ice chopper, patent freezer, 
cup or dipper to handle the ice, burlap and newspaper to cover 
the freezer. 

Methods of Preparing Frozen Dishes 

Ices are made from sweetened fruit juice. They are made 
more smooth by cooking the water and sugar together to a thin 
syrup. If too much sugar is used the mixture is hard to freeze; 
if too little, it is coarse and rough. (1^ cups sugar to a quart 
of water, boil 5 minutes and strain.) Frozen fruit is prepared 
from fruits pressed through a colander, or cut in small pieces 
A\dth a silver knife, or whole fruits cooked in syrup before 
adding as they freeze too hard if uncooked. 

Ice creams are made with sweetened and flavored creams. 
Scalded cream gives a smoother, more velvety ice cream but 
swells less than raw cream in freezing. Scald cream, dissolve 
sugar in it, cool, add flavoring, and freeze. Either fruit juice 
or crushed fruit may be used for ice cream; it is preferable to 
use only the juice of very seedy fruits. When preparing ice 
cream with fruit the sugar and crushed fruit should stand one 
hour in a cool place, or until the sugar is dissolved, then it is 
added to the cream and frozen. 

General Rules for Freezing 

The can, cover, and dasher of the freezer should be scalded, 
and then chilled before the mixture which is to be frozen is 
placed in it. Adjust the can carefully in the tub before packing. 
Pour in the mixture, put in the dasher, cover, adjust the crank, 
and pack with finely chopped ice and rock salt; this must be 



294 



higher around the can than the mixture is inside. A freezer 
should never be filled more than three- fourths full, to allow for 
expansion in freezing. 

Use four times as much ice as salt for freezing; use five 
times as much ice as salt in packing. The larger the quantity 
of salt used the more quickly the freezing takes place and the 
coarser the grain. Coarse rock salt gives the best results in 
freezing. A heavy bag of burlap, canvas, or carpet, and a 
wooden mallet are excellent for pounding the ice. 

The rate of turning the freezer also affects the grain of 
the frozen dish. If the freezer is turned slowly and steadily 
the mixture is fine grained and velvety. This is desirable for 
ice cream. If the freezer is turned quickly and the mixture 
freezes rapidly it becomes granular. This is desirable for sher- 
bet. A mixture which is frozen quickly and stirred only inter- 
mittently is full of crystals. Use for water ice and frozen fruit. 

After cream is frozen it is much improved if repacked for 
2 or 3 hours to '"ripen." Ripening develops a rich flavor and 
delicious "grain." 

When the mixture is frozen, remove ice and salt from 
around the top of the can; wipe cover and top with a cloth 
wrung out of hot water; uncover and remove dasher, scrape it; 
then beat frozen mixture with wooden spoon or paddle five 
minutes; place paraffin paper or heavy paper over can; cover 
and put a cork in the hole. Drain off all the water which has 
collected during the freezing and which should not be removed 
until freezing is completed; repack the freezer, putting ice and 
salt over the top, and cover with carpet or newspaper, and 
allow it to stand in a cold place for several hours. 

A tightly covered tin can and a wooden pail may be sub- 
stituted for an ice cream freezer, using a wooden spoon or 
paddle to scrape the mixture from the sides and bottom of the 
can as it freezes. 



295 



To mould an ice after freezing, pack solidly in a mould, 
cover with paraffin paper and bury in ice and salt, using six 
parts ice to one of salt. 

Danger from Eating Frozen Mixtures 

Cans for freezers should be made of a good quality of tin. 
If an acid mixture is allowed to stand in tin for a long time 
when not chilled it may act on the tin, forming poisonous 
compounds. 

Danger from ptomaine poisoning comes from allowing old 
cream to stand for a long time. Ptomaine poisoning is a form 
of decomposition which develops slowly in organic matter. 
There is seldom much danger of it occurring except in very hot 
weather and where foods are carelessly handled. 

Digestive disturbances are apt to occur if frozen dishes 
are eaten hurriedly or in large quantities. 

Kinds of Frozen Mixtures 

I Without Cream 

1 Water Ice — Fruit juice, sugar, and water frozen. 

2 Sherbet — Water ice plus white of egg, gelatine or milk. 

3 Punch — Fruit water ice partially frozen. 

4 Frappe — Coarsely frozen water ice, granulated or 
broken up in appearance. Equal parts of ice and salt used in 
the freezing. 

5 Granite — Fruits frozen in fruit juice, sugar, and 
water, having a rough, icy structure. Twice as much ice as 
salt used in the freezing. 

6 Sorbet — Smooth, half frozen sherbet. 



296 



II Ice Cream 

1 Philadelphia Ice Cream — Plain cream, sweetened and 
flavored with extracts, fruit or chocolate, frozen, 

2 Neapolitan, New York, or Delmonico Ice Cream — A 
frozen custard, prepared of cream or milk combined with eggs, 
flavoring and sometimes flour and salt, cooked. 

3 Frozen Pudding — Philadelphia or Neapolitan Ice 
Cream plus nuts or fruits or both. 

4 Mousse or Par fait — ^Whipped cream, drained, flav- 
ored, frozen without stirring; beaten eggs are sometimes added. 
One half as much salt as ice is used in freezing. 

Vanilla Ice Cream 

1 quart cream 2 tablespoons vanilla extract 

1 cup sugar 
' Scald the cream, add sugar, stir until dissolved, cool, add 
flavoring, and freeze. Serves 8 to 12. 

Chocolate Ice Cream 

2 ounces chocolate 1 cup sugar 

1 quart cream 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Scald cream, melt chocolate, add sugar, then add hot cream 

gradually, heat till smooth; when cool, add vanilla, and freeze. 

Serves 8 to 12. 

Caramel Ice Cream 

1 cup sugar 1 quart cream 

^ cup boiling water ^ cup sugar 

Melt sugar in a frying pan; when caramel stage is 
reached, add boiling water gradually; mix with the hot cream 
and sugar; when cool, freeze. Serves 8 to 12. 

Coffee Ice Cream 

Ys cup finely ground coffee 1 quart cream 

Yz cup boiling water 1 cup sugar 

Make filtered coft'ee, mix with the hot cream, and the 
sugar; when cool, freeze. Serves 8 to 12. 



297 



Fruit Water Ice or Frozen Fruit 

2 cups fruit juice or 2 cups sugar 

3 cups crushed fruit 2 tablespoons lemon juice 
1 quart water 

Boil the sugar and water to a s3Tup, cool, add the fruit 
juice, strain, chill, and freeze. Serves 8 to 12. . 

Fruit Ice Cream 

2 cups fruit juice or 2 cups sugar 

3 cups crushed fruit 1 quart cream 

Add the sugar to the fruit; let stand to dissolve the sugar; 
add the cream and freeze. Serves 12 to 16. 

Orange Ice 

1 quart water 2 cups orange juice 

2 cups sugar ^4 cup lemon juice 

Boil the sugar, water, and grated rind of 1 orange to a 
syrup, cool; add fruit juice and strain; cool, freeze. Serves 
8 to 12. 

Mixed Fruit Ice 

3 oranges /2 can apricots 
3 lemons 3 cups water 

2 bananas 3 cups sugar 

Squeeze oranges and lemons, and put apricots and bananas 
through a sieve. Boil sugar and water to a thin syrup. When 
cold add the fruit pulp and juice. Chill thoroughly before 
freezing. From 1 cup to 1 pint of cream may be added, if de- 
sired, before freezing. Serves 24. 

Milk Sherbet 

1 quart milk 3 large lemons (juice) 

2 cups sugar 

Freeze the milk and sugar slightly, add the juice of the 
lemons, and freeze again. Pack until needed. Serves 8 to 12. 



298 



Peach Ice or Frozen Peaches 

Y\ can peaches Water to make 4 cups 

1 Yz cups sugar 

Drain the peaches, put through a ricer or fruit press. 
Cook the water and sugar 5 minutes. Strain; add peaches; 
cool and freeze. Serves 6 to 8. 

Grape Frappe 

1 y^ cups sugar 3 cups grape juice 

1 quart water 2 lemons (juice) 

Boil the water and sugar together for 10 minutes. Strain 
through a cheese cloth into the can of the freezer. When cold, 
add the fruit juice. Pack with ice and salt, using equal pro- 
portions. When the mixture is half frozen, remove the dasher 
and pack until ready to serve. Scrape the frozen mixture 
from the side of the can and beat well before serving. Serves 
12 to 16. 

Lemon Sherbet 

1 quart water 1 cup lemon juice 

2 cups sugar 1 egg white 

Boil the sugar and water together to a syrup; cool; add 
lemon juice and strain; chill, freeze, and when partly frozen 
add egg white well-beaten. Other fruit juices may be substi- 
tuted for or combined with the lemon juice. Serves 8 to 12. 

Rhubarb Sherbet 

2^ quarts rhubarb (2 lbs.) 1 lemon, juice and rind 

1 quart water 1 egg white 

1 cup sugar 

Stew rhubarb and water until perfectly tender. Strain, 
add the sugar and rind of lemon, and boil till the sugar is dis- 
solved. Add lemon juice, strain, chill, and freeze. When 
partly frozen, add egg white well-beaten, and freeze until firm. 
Serves 12 to 16. 



299 



Cranberry Sherbet 

1 pint cranberry juice 2 lemons, juice 

1 pint water 2 egg whites 

2 cups sugar 

Stew the cranberries in water until they burst from their 
skins, strain, and add sugar. Heat until the sugar is dissolved. 
Cool, add the lemon juice, chill, and freeze. When partly 
frozen, add stiffly-beaten whites of eggs, and freeze until firm. 
Serves 8 to 12. 

White Grape Sherbet 

1 pint water 2 cups white grape juice 

1 cup sugar 1 egg white 

1 lemon (juice) 
Make a thin syrup of the sugar and water. Cool, add fruit 
juice, strain, and freeze. When partly frozen add the egg 
white well-beaten and freeze till firm. Serves 8 to 12. 



INDEX 



Acid, in jelly, 82 
Almonds, salted, 102 
Angel food cake, 249 
Apple, baked, pudding, 279 
Apple butter, 87 
Apple chutney, 69 
Apple dumplings, 280 
Apple fritters, 208 
Apple jelly, 84 
Apple pie, 265 
Apple pudding, baked, 279 
Apple salad, 241 
Apple sauce, 51 
Apple snow pudding, 276 
Apple tapioca pulding, 278 
Apples, baked, 50 
Apples, canned, 78 
Apples, pickled, 72 
Apples, scalloped, 274 
Apples, steamed, 50 
Apples, stewed, 51 
Apricot marmalade, 87 
Apricot tapioca pudding, 278 
Apricot whip, 277 
Apricots, canned, 79 
Apricots, stewed, 51 
Apricots, boiled, 14 
Asparagus, canned, 62 
Asparagus, scalloped, 17 
Au gratin, cauliflower, 19 
Au gratin, potatoes, 32 



Bacon, 
Bacon, 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baked 
Baking 



164 

to cook, 164 
apple pudding, 279 
apples, 50 
bananas, 51 
beans, 15 
calf's heart, 161 
custards, 124 
eggs, 113 
fish, 179 

hominy grits, 106 
omelet, 116 
potatoes (sweet), 35 
potatoes(white), 30 
rhubarb, 52 
squash, 38 
powder biscuits, 196 



Banana pie, 267 
Banana snow pudding, 277 
Bananas, baked, 51 
Batters and doughs, 192 

Baking powder mixtures, 195 

General directions for mixing, 194 

Methods of entangling air, 192 

Methods of entangling gas, 192 

Recipes for — see breads and cakes 

Thickness of, 193 

Ways of combining ingredients, 193 
Bavarian cream — see Charlotte Russe 
Bavarian, orange, 287 
Bean soup, black, 130 
Bean soup, dried, 130 
Beans, 14 

Baked, Boston, 15 

Butter — see lima, 15 

Dried, 15 

Green string, 15 

Lima, green, 15 

Lima, canned, 65 

String, 15 

String, canned, 67 

Wax, 15 
Beaten bread, 217 
Beef, 143 

Canned, 76 

Corned, 161 

Creamed chipped, 163 

Cuts of, 145 

Diagram of beef animal, 144 

Hamburg steak, 156 

Heart, 161 

Loaf, 156 

Pot roast, 157 

Stew, 157 

Stock, 135-137 

Tests for good, 143 
Beets, 16 

Boiled, 16 

Canned, 63 

Pickled, 72 
Beverages, recipes for, 5 

See also fruit juices 
Biscuits, 196-197 

Baking powder, 196 

Emergency, 196 

Pin wheel, 197 



Soda, 197 

Black bean soup, 130 

Blackberries, canned, 79 

Blackberries, sun-preserved, 92 

Blackberry jelly, 85 

Blackberry pudding, 283 

Blackberry shrub, 94 

Blanching, 57 

Boiled frosting, 260 

Boiled tongue, 161 

Boston baked beans,. 15 

Bottle wax, 94 

Bouillon, 138 

Brains, calves', 167 

Bran cookies, 254 

Bran gems, 200 

Braized tongue, 162 

Bread, 210 

Breaded veal cutlets, 159 

Bread flour, 212 

Bread griddle cakes, 206 

Bread pudding, 275 

Bread pudding, chocolate, 275 

Breads 
Processes of bread making 
Baking, 215 
Kneading, 214 
Mixing, 214 
Rising, 215 
Recipes for quick breads ' 
Baking powder mixtures, 195 
Biscuits, 196-197 
Bran gems, 200 
Brown bread, 202 
Coffee bread, quick, 203 
Corn bread, 200 
Com bread, sticks, 201 
Corn bread, spoon, 201 
Corn meal dodgers, 202 
Corn meal rolls, 201 
Corn muffins, 199 
Dumplings, 197 
Gems, 199-200 
Graham bread, 202 
Graham popovers, 195 
Griddle cakes — see index 
Hot cross buns with baking 

powder, 198 
Muffins, 199-200 
Nut bread, 203 
Popovers, graham, 195 
Quick coffee bread, 203 



Quick graham bread, 202 

Raisin bread, 203 
Recipes for yeast breads 

Beaten bread, 217 

Bread sticks, 220 

Coffee bread with yeast, 217 

Pulled bread, 221 

Rye bread, 217 

Soft graham bread, 217 

White fiour bread, 216 

Whole wheat bread, 217 
Rolls and buns, 218 

Buns, 220 

Buns, cinnamon, rolled, 221 

Buns, date, 221 

Buns, hot cross, with baking 
powder, 198 

English muffins, 219 

Finger rolls, 219 

Luncheon rolls, 219 

Parker house rolls, 218 

Rolled cinnamon buns, 221 

Scones, 198 

Steamed brown bread, 202 

Waffles, 207 

Whole wheat muffins, 199 
Uses for stale bread, 221 

Canapes, 222 

Creamed toast. 223 

Croutons, 222 

French toast, 223 

Milk toast, 222 

Sippets, 222 

Soup sticks, 222 

Toast, 222 

Zwieback, 222 
Broiled fish, 179 
Broiled oysters, 185 
Broiling of meat, 154 
Broth, Scotch, 139 
Brown bread, steamed, 202 
Brown gravy, 155 
Browned hash, 168 
Brown sauce, 46 
Brown stock, 137 
Brown sugar frosting, 261 
Brussels sprouts, 16 
Buckwheat griddle cakes, 206 
Buns, 220 

Bran gems, 200 

Date, 221 



Hot cross, 198 

Rolled cinnamon, 221 
Butter balls, to make, 224 
Butter beans, 15 
Butter cakes, 243 
Butter, flavored, 226 
Butter scotch, 96 
Butter scotch pie, 267 

Cabbage, 17 

Boiled, 17 

Boiled with pork or 
corned beef, 18 

Creamed, 17 

Salad, celery and, 236 

Salad, jellied, 240 

Scalloped, 18 
Cabinet pudding, 276 
Cake frostings, 259 
Cooked, 260 

Boiled, 260 

Brown sugar, 261 

Caramel, 261 

Chocolate filling, 252 

Chocolate, 261 

Maple, 261 
Uncooked, 259 

Egg, 259 

Mocha, 259 

Orange filling, 260 

Orange frosting, 260 

Ornamental, 260 

Water, 259 
Cakes, 243 
Kinds, 243 
Rules for, 243 
Large cakes, 243 

Angel food, 249 

Chocolate cake, 251 

Eggless cake — see white cake 
without eggs 

Ginger bread, 250 

Gold cake, 247 

Jelly roll, 249 

Mock sponge cake— see water 
sponge 

Pecan cake, 251 

Pound cake, 247 

Spice cake with eggs, 250 

Spiced eggless cake No. 1, 246 

Spiced eggless cake No. 2, 247 

Sponge cake, 248 



Sunshine cake, 250 

Washington pie, 248 

Water sponge cake, 248 

White cake No. 1, 245 

White cake No. 2, 246 

White cake without eggs, 246 

White sponge cake, 249 

Yellow cake No. 1, 245 

Yellow cake No. 2, 245 
Small cakes and cookies, 253 

Bran cookies, 254 

Chocolate cookies, 253 

Cookies, 253 

Cookies, ideal, 254 

Fondant cakes, 99, 257 

Fruit cakes, 256 

Ginger cookies, 255 

Ginger drop cakes, 256 

Lady fingers, 256 

Marguerites, 257 

Meringues, 257 

Nut wafers, 257 

Oatmeal cookies, 255 

Peanut cookies, 253 

Tea cakes, 252 
Calf's brains, 167 
Calf's heart, baked, 161 
Calf's heart, boiled, 161 
Canapes, 222 
Candied orange peel, 97 
Candies, 95 

Butter scotch, 96 

Candied orange peel, 97 

Caramel fudge, 97 

Caramels, 97 

Divinity — see nougat, 100 

Double fudge, 98 

Fondant, 98 

Fudge, 100 

Maple fudge, 100 

Molasses candy, 100 

Nougat, 100 

Peanut brittle, 101 

Peanut brittle with molasses, 101 

Peppermint drops, 101 

Peppermint drops with 
fondant, 99 

Pinoche, 102 

Pop-corn balls, 102 

Puffed rice balls, 102 

Salted almonds, 102 

Salted peanuts, 103 



stuffed dates, 99 
White pulled candy, 103 
Canned fruits, 77 
Canned meats, 76 
Canned vegetables, 62 
Canning, 

Methods of, 54 

Principles of, 55 
Time table for, 62, 78 
Caper sauce, 46 
Caramel, uses for, 98 
Caramel charlotte, 288 
Caramel com starch pudding, 273 
Caramel frosting^ 261 
Caramel fudge, 97 
Caramel ice cream, 296 
Caramel syrup, 97 
Caramels, 97 
Carrot marmalade, 88 
Carrots, 18 
Carrots, canned, 63 
Carrots, creamed, 19 
Carrots, scalloped— see scalloped 

cabbage, 17 
Casserole of rice and meat, 169 
Casserole of rice and salmon, 183 
Cauliflower, 19 
Cauliflower au gratin, 19 
Cauliflower, scalloped,— see scalloped 

cabbage, 17 
Celery, 20 

Celery and cabbage salad, 236 
Celery and tomato salad, 235 
Celery and cabbage salad, 235 
Celery, creamed, 20 
Celery soup, cream of, 132 
Cereal coffee, 6 
Cereal pudding, 109 
Cereals, 104 
General directions for cooking, 104 
Table of proportions and time for 
cooking, 105 
Recipes for, 106 

Cereal pudding, 109 

Com meal mush, 106 

Corn meal mush for frying, 106 

Cracked wheat, 107 

Cream of wheat, 109 

Farina, 109 

Hominy grits, 106 

Hominy grits, baked, 106 

Oatmeal, coarse, 107 



Rice, 107 

Boiled, 107 

Cream, 125 

Croquettes, 108 

Croquettes, with syrup, 109 

Pudding, 108 

Savory, 108 

Scalloped, 109 

Steamed, 108 
Rolled oats, 107 
Wheatena, 109 
Wheatlet, 109 
Charlotte Russe, 288 
Cheese, 126 
Care of, 126 
Cooking of, 126 
Recipes for 

Cheese fondue, 128 

Cheese souffle, 118 

Cheese straws, 127 

Cottage cheese, 126 

Macaroni and cheese, 127 

Noodles and cheese, 127 

Potatoes au gratin, 32 

Toasted crackers and cheese, 224 

Welsh rabbit, 126 
Cheese and nut sandwiches, 236 
Cheese and pimento salad, 238 
Cherries, canned, 79 
Cherries, sun-preserved, 92 
Chicken — see poultry, 170 
Chicken, canned, 77 
Chicken, creamed, 175 
Chicken, creamed and baked, 176 
Chicken croquettes, 175 
Chicken fricasseed, 174 
Chicken, roast, 171 
Chicken salad, 239 
Chicken souffle, 118 
Chili sauce, 69 
Chipped beef, creamed, 163 
Chocolate, 8-9 

Chocolate bread pudding, 275 
Chocolate cake, 251 
Chocolate cookies, 253 
Chocolate com starch pudding, 273 
Chocolate custards, 124 
Chocolate eclairs, 271 
Chocolate eclairs, frosting for, 271 
Chocolate filling, 252 
Chocolate frosting, 261 
Chocolate ice cream, 296 



Chocolate pie, 26S 
Chocolate sauce, 290 
Chow chow, 70 
Chowder 

Corn, 133 
Fish, 140 
Chutney, 69 

Cinnamon buns, rolled, 221 
Clam puree, 141 
Cocktail, fruit, 53 
Cocoa, 9 

Coddled eggs, 113 
Codfish balls, 182 
Codfish, creamed, 181 
Coffee, 5 
Boiled, 6 
Cereal, 6 
Filtered, 6 
Percolated, 6 
Coffee bread, quick, 203 
Coffee bread with yeast, 218 
Coffee cream, 286 
Coffee ice cream, 296 
Coffee jelly, 285 
Cold pack method of canning, 56 

Cautions to be observed, 59 

Equipment necessary, 61 

General rules for, 58 

Processes in, 56 
Cole slaw salad, 235 • 
Collards, 20 
Conser\'e, 88 

Cooked mayonnaise with oil, 233 
Cooked salad dressing, 233 
Cookies, 252 

Recipes for, 253 
Cooking 

General rules, 4 

Methods of, 2 

Reasons for, 2 

Results of, 3 

Success in, 3 
Cooking of sugar, 95 
Cooking over meat, rules for, 167 
Com, 20 

On the cob, 21 
Pudding, 21 
Scalloped, 22 
Stewed, 21 
Com bread, 200 
Com bread, spoon, 201 
Com bread sticks 201 



Com, canned, cold pack, 63 

Com, canned, intermittent, 64 

Com chowder, 133 

Corn meal dodgers, 202 

Com meal griddle cakes, 205 

Com meal mush, 106 

Com meal mush, for frying, 106 

Com meal rolls, 201 

Com meal, tapioca and, 277 

Com muffins, 199 

Com on the cob, 21 

Com pudding, 21 

Com, scalloped, 22 

Com starch puddings, 273 

Com starch pudding, caramel, 273 

Com starch pudding, chocolate, 273 

Corn starch pudding, vanilla, 273 

Corn, stewed, 21 

Corned beef, 161 

Corned beef, boiled cabbage with, 18 

Cottage cheese, 126 

Cottage frait pudding, 280 

Cottage pudding, 280 

Cow peas, 22 

Crabapple jelly, 85 

Cracked wheat, 107 

Crackers, 

Crisp, 223 

Nut wafers, 223 

Toasted crackers and cheese, 224 
Cranberry and raisin pie, 269 
Cranberry jelly, 52 
Cranberry pudding, steamed, 284 
Cranberry sauce, 52 
Cranberry sherbet, 299 
Cream of rice soup, 138 
Cream of wheat, 109 
Cream pie, 266 
Cream puffs, 270 

Cream puffs, cream filling for, 270 
Cream salad dressing, 233 
Cream sauce, 289 
Cream soups, 131 
Cream tapioca, 125 
Cream toast, 223 
Creamy omelet, 115 
Creamy sauce, 291 
Crisp crackers, 223 
Crooked neck squash, 38 
Croquettes, 191 
Croquettes, chicken, 175 
Croquettes, meat — see chicken 



Croquettes, potato, 33 

Croquettes, potato, with cheese, 33 

Croquettes, rice, 108 

Croquettes, rice, with syrup, 109 

Croutons, 222 

Crumbing, egging and, for frying, 190 

Cucumber and radish salad, 235 

Cucumber jelly salad, 240 

Cucumber pickles, 70 

Cucumber pickles, sliced, 73 

Cucumbers, 22 

To prepare, 22 
Currant conserve, 88 
Currant jelly, 85 
Currants, to prepare dried, 282 
Curry of mutton, 160 
Custard pie, 267 
Custard sauce, 286 
Custards, 123 

Baked, 124 

Chocolate, 124 

Floating island, 124 

Rice cream, 125 

Soft, 124 

Steamed, 123 

Tapioca (cream), 125 
Cutlets, sauce for, 159 
Cutlets, • veal, breaded, 159 
Cymbelines, 38 

Date buns, 221 
Date graham gems, 200 
Date pudding, 281 
Desserts, 273 

Apple dumplings, 280 

Apple fritters, 208 

Apple snow, 276 

Apple tapioca, 278 

Apricot tapioca, 278 

Apricot whip, 277 

Baked apple pudding, 279 

Banana snow, 277 

Blackberry pudding, 283 

Bread pudding, 275 

Bread pudding, chocolate, 275 

Cabinet pudding, 276 

Caramel com starch pudding, 273 

Cereal pudding, 109 

Chocolate com starch pudding, 237 

Chocolate custards, 124 

Corn starch puddings, 273 



Cottage pudding, 280 
Cottage fmit pudding, 280 
Cream tapioca, 125 
Custards, 123 
Baked, 125 
Chocolate, 125 
Floating island, 125 
Rice cream, 125 
Soft, 125 
Steamed, 123 
Date pudding, 281 
Fruit short cake, 279 
Graham pudding, 283 
Indian pudding, 281 
Junket, 121 
Lemon tapioca, 278 
Orange pudding, 274 
Pineapple tapioca, 278 
Prune souffle, 276 
Prune tapioca, 278 
Puff pudding, 277 
■ Queen of puddings, 275 
Rennet, 121 
Rice cream, 109 
Rice pudding, 108 
Scalloped apples, 274 
Scalloped rhubarb, 275 
Snow balls, 283 

Steamed cranberry pudding, 284 
Steamed fru\t pudding, 282 
Steamed mixtures, 281 
Strawberry short cake, 279 
Tapioca puddings, 278 
Apple, 278 
Apricot, 278 
Cream, 125 
Lemon, 278 
Pineapple, 278 
Prune, 278 

Tapioca and corn meal, 278 
Velvet pudding, 274 
Desserts prepared with gelatine, 284 
Bavarian cream— see Charlotte 

Russe 
Caramel charlotte, 288 
Charlotte Russe, 288 
Coffee cream, 286 
Coffee jelly, 285 
Fmit jelly, 285 
Lemon jelly, 285 
Marshmallow fancy, 287 
Orange Bavarian, 287 



Orange jelly, 285 

Pineapple snow pudding, 286 

Prune whip with gelatine, 287 

Snow pudding, 285 
Frozen dishes see frozen dishes 
Steamed puddings 

Blackberry pudding, 283 

Cranberry pudding, 284 

Fruit pudding with pork, 282 

Fruit pudding with suet, 282 

Graham pudding, 283 

Snow balls, 283 
Dewberries, canned, 79 
Dewberries, sun-preserved, 92 
Dewberry jelly, 85 
Dewberry shrub, 94 
Diagram of beef animal, 144 
Dipping, 57 
Divinity candy, 98 
Dixie relish, 70 
Double fudge, 98 
Doughnuts 

Raised with baking powder, 271 

Raised with yeast, 271 
Drawn butter for vegetables, 46 
Drawn butter sauce for fish, 47 
Dried bean soup, 130 
Dried beans, 15 
Dried peas, 15 
Dried fruits, 50 
Dried pea soup, 130 
Duck, roast, 176 
Dumplings, 197 
Dumplings, apple, 280 

Eclairs, chocolate, 271 

Eclairs, chocolate, frosting for, 271 

Egg frosting, 259 

Egg plant, 23 

Boiled, 23 

Canned, 64 

Fried, 23 

Scalloped, 23 
Egg salad, 238 
Egg salad, stuffed, 238 
Egg sandwiches, 226 
Egg sauce, 290 

Egging and crumbing for frying, 190 
Eggless cakes — see cakes 
Eggs, 110 

Baked, 113 

Care of, 110 



Coddled, 113 

Cooking of. 111 

Creamed, 113 

Economy in using, 112 

Hard cooked, 113 

Methods of cooking, HI 

Poached, 113 

Scrambled, 113 

Serving, 112 

Shirred, 113 

Soft cooked, 112 

Tests for a fresh egg, 110 
Emergency biscuits, 196 
English muffins, 219 

Farina, 109 
Fats 

Changes in fat when heated, 186 

Cooking in fats, 186 

Egging and crumbing for 
frying, 190 

Method of frying, 189 

Necessary utensils for deep 
fat frying, 186 

Temperature for frying, 188 

Tests for temperature, 188 

Time table for frying, 189 

To clarify fat, 154 

To render fat, 154 

To try out fat, 154 
Fig preserves, 88 
Filling, chocolate, 252 
Filling, orange, 260 
Fillings for sandwiches, 225 
Filtered coffee, 6 
Finger rolls, 219 
Fireless cooker, 4 
Fish, 178 
Preparation and cooking, 178 
Serving, 179 
Recipes 

Baked, 179 

Boiled, 180 

Broiled, 179 

Casserole of rice and salmon, 183 

Clam puree, 141 

Codfish balls, 182 

Creamed codfish, 181 

Fish chowder, 140 

Fish cooked in fat, 180 

Fried fish, 180 

Planked fish, 180 



Salmon croquettes, 183 

Salmon loaf, 182 

Scalloped fish, 181 

Scalloped salmon, 183 

Souffle, 118, 181 

Steamed fish, 180 

Stuffing for fish, 180 
Fish sandwiches, 226 
Fish soups, 140 
Flaky pastry, 265 
Flank steak, 146 
Flank steak, stuffed, 158 
Flavored butter, 226 
Floating island, 124 
Flour 

Bread, 212 

Graham, 213 

Hard wheat, 212 

Pastry, 212 

Soft wheat, 212 

Spring wheat, 212 

Tests for flours, 212 

Whole wheat, 213 

Winter wheat, 212 
Foamy omelet, 116 
Fondant, 98 
Fondant, uses for, 99 
Fondant cakes, 99, 257 
Fondue, cheese, 128 
Food preservation, 54 
Fowl, see poultry, 170 
Franconia potatoes, 31 
Frappe — see frozen dishes 
French fried potatoes, 31 
French dressing, 233 
French toast, 223 
Fricaseed chicken, 174 
Fricaseed oysters, 185 
Fried egg plant, 23 
Fried fish, 180 
Fried onions, 26 
Fried oysters, 185 
Fried sweet potatoes, 36 
Fried tomatoes, 39 
Fritters, 207 

Apple fritters, 208 

Fritter batter, 207 

Queen fritters, 208 
Frosting for chocolate eclairs, 271 
Frostings — see cake frostings 
Frozen dishes, 291 

Dangers from eating, 295 



General rules for freezing, 293 

Kinds of, 295 

Methods of preparing, 293 

Principles of freezing, 292 

Purposes of freezing, 292 

Value of, 292 
Recipes 

Caramel ice cream, 296 

Chocolate ice cream, 296 

Coffee ice cream, 296 

Cranberry sherbet, 299 

Frozen fruit, 297 

Frozen peaches, 298 

Fruit ice cream, 297 

Fruit water ice, 297 

Grape frappe, 298 

Lemon sherbet, 298 

Milk sherbet, 297 

Mixed fruit ice, 297 

Orange ice, 297 

Peach ice, 298 

Rhubarb sherbet, 298 

Vanilla ice cream, 296 

White grape sherbet, 299 
Frozen fruit, 297 
Frozen fruit salad, 242 
Frozen peaches, 298 
Fruit beverages, 9 
Fruit cookies, 256 
Fruit, canning of, 77 
Fruit cocktail, 53 
Fruit cup — see fruit cocktail 
Fruit drink, 11 
Fruit ice, mixed, 297 
Fruit ice cream, 297 
Fruit jelly, 285 
Fruit juice, canned for jelly 

making, 84 
Fruit juices for beverages, 94 

See also lemonade, 10 
Fruit punch, 11 
Fruit pudding 

Cottage, 280 
Steamed with pork, 282 
Steamed with suet, 282 
Fruit salad, 241 

Fruit sauce thickened with flour, 290 
Fruit sauce with egg, 289 
Fruit short cake, 279 
Fruit water ice, 297 
Fruits, 50 
Fruits, canned, 78 



Fudge, 100 
Double, 98 
Maple, 100 

Garnishixgs, 228 
Gelatine dishes, 284 
Gems — see muffins 

Bran, 200 

Date graham, 200 

Graham, 199 
Giblet gravy for roast duck, 177 
Ginger cookies, 255 
Ginger drop cakes, 256 
Ginger bread, 250 
Glazed sweet potatoes, 36 
Gold cake, 247 
Goose, roast, 177 
Gooseberries, canned, 79 
Gooseberries, spiced, 92 
Graham bread 

Quick, 202 

Soft, 217 
Graham flour, 213 
Graham gems, 199 
Graham gems with dates, 200 
Graham popovers, 195 
Graham pudding, 283 
Grape frappe, 298 
Grape fruit juice, 11 
Grape fruit marmalade, 89 
Grape jam, 89 
Grape jelly, £6 
Grape juice, 94 
Grape juice punch, 11 
Grape sherbet, white, 299 
Grapefruit marmalade, 89 
Gravy, brown, 155 
Gravy for boiled meat, 156 
Gravy, giblet, for roast duck, 177 
Green beans, 15 
Green Lima beans, 15 
Green pea soup, 134 
Green tomato mince meat, 89 
Green tomato pickle, 71 
Greens, canned, 65 
Greens, mustard, 25 
Griddle cakes, 204 

Baking, 205 

Batter, 204 

Griddle, 204 

Serving, 205 



Recipes, 205 
Bread griddle cakes, 206 
Buckwheat cakes, 206 
Corn meal griddle cakes, 205 
Plain griddle cakes, 205 
Sour milk griddle cakes, 206 
Gumbo soup, 139 

Ham, boiled, 161 
Ham puff, 169 
Hamburg steak, 156 
Hard cooked eggs, 113 
Hard sauce, 289 
Hard wheat flour, 212 
Hash, browned, 168 
Hash on toast, 169 
Heart, baked, 161 
Heart, boiled, 161 
Hickory nut tarts, 270 
Hollandaise sauce, 47 
Hominy grits, 106 
Hominy grits, baked, 106 
Hopping John, 28 
Horseradish salad, 236 
Hot cross buns, 198 
Hot sandwiches, 226 
Hubbard squash, 38 

Ice cream — see frozen dishes 

Iced tea, 8 

Ices — see frozen dishes 

Ideal cookies, 254 

Indian pudding, 281 

Intermittent method of canning, 56 

Jams, 87 

Grape, 89 
Peach, 90 
Strawberry, 92 

Jellied cabbage salad, 240 
Jelly, to make, 84 
Recipes 

Apple, 84 

Blackberry, 85 

Crabapple, 85 

Currant, 85 

Dewberry, 85 

Grape, 86 

Loganberry, 86 

Plum, 86 

Quince, 87 



Jelly roll, 249 
Julienne soup, 138 
Junket, 121 

Kale, 24 

Boiled with pork, 24 

Minced, 24 
Ketchup, tomato, 15 
Kidney stew, 162 
Kisses — see meringues 
Kohl rabi, 24 

Boiled, 24 

Lady fingers, 256 

Lemonade, 10 

Lemon jelly, 284 

Lemon pie, 266 

Lemon sauce, 289 

Lemon sherbet, 298 

Lemon tapioca pudding, 278 

Lettuce, 25 

Lettuce salad, 235 

Lima beans, 15 

Lima beans, canned, 65 

Liver, 16 

To cook, 164 
Loaf, 

Beef, 156 

Veal, 156 
Loganberry jelly, 86 

Macaroni and cheese, 127 
Maple frosting, 261 
Maple fudge, 100 
Marguerites, 257 
Marmalades, 87 

Apricot, 87 

Grape fruit, 89 

Orange, 89 

Pineapple, 90 
Marshmallow fancy, 287 
Mashed parsnips, 28 
Mashed potatoes (sweet), 36 
Mashed potatoes (white), 31 
Mashed turnips, 41 
Mayonnaise, 234 

Mayonnaise cooked with oil, 234 
Mayonnaise, mock, 234 
Measurements, table of, 5 
Meat croquettes, 175 
Meat pie, 159, 269 
Meat sandwiches, 226 
Meat soups(see soups), 135 



Meats, 142 

Cooking of, 153 
Boiling, 156 
Broiling, 154 
Canned, 76 
Pan-broiling, 155 
Roasting, 155 

Rules for cooking over, 167 
Time for, 155 

Tender cuts of meat, to cook, 153 
Tough cuts of meat, to cook, 153 
Kinds 
Beef, 143 

Cuts of, 144 

Four-quarter, 145 

Hind-quarter, 146 

Tests for good, 143 
Mutton, 150 

Cuts of, 150 
Pork, 152 
Veal, 148 
Recipes, 
Bacon, to cook, 164 
Baked heart, 161 
Beef loaf, 156 
Beef stew, 157 
Boiled heart, 161 
Boiled meat, 156 
Broiling, 154 
Browned hash, 168 
Calves' brains, 167 
Casserole of rice and meat, 169 
Corned beef, 161 
Creamed chipped beef, 163 
Creamed sweet breads, 167 
Flank steak, stuffed, 158 
Ham, boiled, 161 
Ham puffs, 169 
Hamburg steak, 156 
Hash on toast, 169 
Heart, baked, 161 
Heart, boiled, 161 
Kidney stew, 162 
Liver, to cook, 164 
Meat croquettes— see chicken 

croquettes. 
Meat pie, 159 

Mince meat, green tomato, 89 
Mutton, boiled, 161 
Mutton, curry of, 160 
Mutton, ragout of, 160 



Pan-broiling, 155 

Roasting, 155 

Pot roast, 157 

Rolled steak— see stuffed steak 

Round steak, stuffed, 158 

Scalloped meat, 168 

Skirt steak, stuffed, 158 

Stuffed steak, 158 

Sweet breads, 165 
To Cook, 166 

Tongue, boiled, 161 

Tongue, braized, 162 

Veal cutlets, breaded, 159 

Veal loaf, 156 

Veal, roast, 158 

Veal stew, 157 
Medium white sauce, 45 
Meringues, 257 
Mexican salad, 238 
Milk, 119 

Cooking of, 120 

Pasteurized, 121 

Sterilized, 121 
Milk sherbet, 297 
Milk toast, 222 
Minced kale, 24 
Mint jelly salad, 240 
Mint sauce for lamb, 47 
Mixed fruit ice, 297 
Mocha frosting, 259 
Mock mayonnaise salad dressing, 234 
Mock sponge cake, 248 
Molasses candy, 100 
Molasses sauce, 291 
Muffins, 199 

Com, 199 

English, 219 

Rolled oats, 200 

Wheat, 199 

Whole wheat, 199 

See also, gems 
Mushrooms, 41 

Creamed, 42 

Stewed, 42 

To prepare canned mushrooms, 41 

To prepare fresh mushrooms, 41 
Mustard for ham and other meat, 47 
Mustard greens, 25 
Mutton, 150 

Boiled, 161 

Curry of, 160 

Ragout of, 160 



Noodles, 195 

Noodles and cheese, 127 

Nougat, 100 

Nut bread, 203 

Nut, cheese and, sandwiches, 226 

Nut sauce, 291 

Nut wafers, 223 

Oatmeal, coarse, 107 

Oatmeal cookies, 255 

Oatmeal muffins— see rolled oats 

Oats, rolled, 107 

Okra, 25 

Boiled, 25 

Canned, 65 

Gumbo soup, 139 
Okra and tomato soup, 129 
Omelet souffie, 116 
Omelets, 114 

Baked, 116 

Creamy, 115 

Foamy, 116 

French— see creamy omelet, 115 

Omelet souffle, 116 

Spanish, 116 

Variations of the omelet, 115 
Onions, 26 

Fried, 26 

Onion souffle, 118 

Pickled, 72 

Scalloped, 26 

Stewed, 26 

Stuffed, 26 
Open kettle method of canning, 55 
Orangeade, 10 
Orange Bavarian, 287 
Orange filling, 260 
Orange frosting, 260 
Orange ice, 297 
Orange jelly, 285 
Orange marmalade, 89 
Orange peel, candied, 97 
Orange pudding, 274 
Orange sauce, 290 
Ornamental frosting, 260 
Oyster plant— see salsify, 37 
Oyster stew 

Plain, 140 

Thickened, 140 
Oysters, 183 
Purpose of cooking, 184 
Recipes for, 185 



Broiled, 185 
Fricaseed, 185 
Fried, 185 
Scalloped, 185 
Stew, plain, 140 
Stew, thickened, 



140 



Pan BROnrNTG of meat, 155 
Pan cakes— see griddle cakes 
Parker house rolls, 218 
Parsnips, 27 

Boiled, 27 

Browned, 27 

Mashed, 27 
Pasteurized milk, 121 
Pastry, 262 
Baking, 264 
Classes of, 262 
General rules, 262 
Ingredients, 262 
Requisites in making, 263 
Utensils used in making, 263 
Recipes 

Apple pie, 265 

Banana pie, 267 

Butter scotch pie, 267 

Chocolate pie, 268 

Cranberry and raisin pie, 269 

Cream pie, 266 

Custard pie, 267 

Flaky pastry, 265 

Hickory nut tarts, 270 

Lemon pie, 266 

Meat pie, 159, 269 

Peach pie, 266 

Plain paste, 265 

Pumpkin pie, 268 

Rhubarb pie, 266 

Rhubarb and raisin pie, 269 

Squash pie, 268 

Sweet potato pie, 268 

Tarts, 269 
Pea, dried, soup, 130 
Pea, green, soup, 134 
Peach ice, 298 
Peach jam, 90 
Peach pie, 266 
Peaches, canned, 80 
Peaches, pickled, 73 
Peanut brittle, 101 
Peanut brttle with molasses, 101 
Peanut cookies, 253 



Peanut soup, 135 
Peanuts, salted, 103 
Pear, preserves, 91 
Pears, canned, 81 
Pears, pickled, 73 
Peas,' 28 

Boiled, 28 

Canned, cold pack method, 66 

Canned, intermittent method, 67 

Cow, boiled, 28 

Dried, boiled, 28 

Hopping John, 28 
Pecan cake, 251 
Pectin, 81 

Peppermint drops, 101 
Peppermint drops with fondant, 99 
Peppers, 28 

Green, 28 

Stuffed, 29 

Stuffed and pickled, 75 
Percolated coffee, 6 
Pickled apples, 72 
Pickled beets, 72 
Pickled onions, 72 
Pickled peaches, 73 
Pickled pears, 73 
Pickles, 69 

Pickles, cucumber, 73 
Pickles, watermelon rind, 76 
Pies— see pastry 

Pimento, cheese and, salad, 238 
Pineapple marmalade, 90 
Pineapple preserves, 91 
Pineapple salad, 242 
Pineapple snow pudding, 286 
Pineapple tapioca pudding, 278 
Pinoche, 102 
Pin wheel biscuits, 197 
Plain griddle cakes, 205 
Plain pastry, 265 
Planked fish, 180 
Plum butter, 91 
Plum jelly, 86 
Plum preserves, 86 
Plums, canned, cold pack, 81 
Plums, canned, open kettle, 81 
Poached eggs, 113 
Pop-corn balls, 102 
Pop-overs, 194 
Pop-overs, graham, 195 
Pork, 152 
Pork, boiled cabbage with, 18 



Pork, boiled kale \vith, 24 

Pork, canned, 76 

Pot roast of beef, 157 

Potato cakes, 32 

Potato salad, 234 

Potato soup, 132 

Potato stuffing for roast duck, 177 

Potatoes, 29 

Potatoes, sweet, 35 

Baked, 35 

Boiled, 36 

Canned, 68 

Croquettes, 36 

Fried, 36 

Glazed, 36 

Mashed, 36 

Pie, 268 
Potatoes, White 

Baked, 30 

Baked in the half shell, 32 

Boiled, 30 

Chips, Saratoga, 35 

Creamed, 30 

Creamed and baked, 30 

Franconia, 31 

French fried, 31 

Hashed brown — see hoUandaise 

Hollandaise, 31 

Mashed, 31 

Potato cakes, 32 

Potato croquettes, 33 

Potato croquettes with cheese, 33 

Potato puff, 34 

Potato souffle — see potato puff 

Potatoes au gratin, 32 

Potatoes O'Brien, 34 
Potato roses for garnishing, 33 

Riced, 34 

Saratoga chips, 35 

Scalloped, 35 

Scalloped with eggs, 35 

Scalloped with white sauce, 35 
Poultry, 170 
Cuts of fowl, 174 
To carve, 172 
To cut up, 173 
To dress and clean, 171 
Recipes for chicken 

Chicken croquettes, 175 

Chicken souffle, 118 

Creamed chicken, 175 

Creamed chicken, baked, 176 



Fricassee chicken, 174 

Roast fowl, 171 

Stuffing for roast fowl, 172 

Stewed fowl, 174 
Recipes for duck, 176 

Giblet gravy for roast duck, 177 

Potato stuffing for roast duck, 177 

Roast duck, 176 
Recipes for goose, 177 
Pound cake, 247 
Preservation of foods, 54 
Preserves, 87 

Fig, 88 

Pear, 91 

Plum, 86 

Pineapple, 91 

Quince, 91 

Sun-preserves, 92 

Yellow tomato, 93 
Processes of bread making— see breads 
Prune souffle, 276 
Prune tapioca pudding, 278 
Prune whip, 287 
Prunes, spiced, 74 
Prunes, stewed, 52 
Pudding sauces— see sweet sauces 
Puddings — see desserts 
Puffed rice balls, 102 
Puff, ham, 169 
Puff pudding, 277 
Pulled bread, 22 
Pulled candy, 103 

See also molasses candy, 100 
Pumpkin pie, 268 
Punch, fruit, 11 
Punch, grape juice, 11 

Queen fritters, 208 
Queen of puddings, 275 
Quick breads — see breads 
Quick coffee bread, 203 
Quick graham bread, 202 
Quince jelly, 87 
Quince preserves, 91 

Radishes, 37 

Ragout of mutton, 160 

Raised doughnuts, 271 

Raisin bread, 203 

Raisin, cranberry and, pie, 269 

Raisin, rhubarb and, pie, 269 

Raisins, to prepare, 281 



Raspberries, sun-preserved, 92 
Raspberry shrub, 94 
Relish, Dixie, 71 
Relish, salad, 236 
Relish, tomato, 75 
Relishes, 69 
Rennet, 121 
Rhubarb, 52 

Baked, 52 

Canned, 81 

Pie, 266 

Pie (and raisin), 269 

Sauce, 52 

Scalloped, 275 

Sherbet, 298 

Steamed, 52 
Rice 

Boiled, 107 

Cream, 125 

Cream of rice soup, 138 

Croquettes, 108 

Croquettes with syrup, 109 

Pudding, 108 

Savory, 108 

Scalloped, 109 

Steamed, 108 
Rice and meat, casserole of, 168 
Rice and salmon, casserole of, 183 
Rice cream, 125 
Rice pudding, 108 
Riced potatoes, 34 
Roast duck, 176 
Roast fowl, 171 
Roast, pot, 157 
Roast veal, 158 
Roasting of meat, 155 
Rolled cinnamon buns, 221 
Rolled oats, 107 
Rolled oats muffins, 200 
Rolls, corn meal, 201 
Rolls, finger, 219 
Rolls, luncheon, 219 
Rolls, parker house, 218 
Ragout of mutton, 160 
Round steak, 147 

Stuffed, 158 
Roux, 44 
Rye bread, 218 

Salad dressings, 230 

Cooked mayonnaise with oil, 233 
Cooked salad dressing, 233 



Cream salad dressing, 233 

French dressing, 233 

IMayonnaise, 233 

Mock mayonnaise, 233 
Salads, 230 
Accompaniments for, 232 
Classes, 230 
Combinations for, 231 
Garnishes for, 232 
Preparation of salad materials, 231 
Seasonings for, 232 
Serving of, 232 
To marinate, 231 
Value of, 232 
Recipes 

Apple salad, 241 

Celery and cabbage salad, 236 

Cheese and pimento salad, 238 

Chicken salad, 239 

Cole slaw, 235 

Cucumber jelly salad, 240 

Cucumber and radish salad, 235 

Egg salad, 238 

Frozen fruit salad, 242 

Fruit salad, 241 

Horseradish salad, 236 

Jellied cabbage salad, 240 

Lettuce salad, 235 

Mexican salad, 238 

Mint jelly salad, 240 

Pineapple salad, 242 

Potato salad, 237 

Relish, 236 

Stuffed eggs, 238 

Tomato salad, 235 

Tomato and celery salad, 235 

Tomato jelly salad, 239 

A'egetable salad, 237 
Salmon, casserole of rice and, 183 

Croquettes, 183 

Loaf, 182 

Scalloped, 183 
Salsify, 37 

Boiled, 37 

Creamed, 37 

Fritters, 37 
Salted almonds, 102 
Salted peanuts, 103 
Sandwiches, 224 

Accompaniments to serve with, 225 

Bread for, 224 

Economy in making, 225 



Fillings for, 225 

Cheese and nuts, 226 

Egg, 226 

Fish, 226 

Flavored butter, 226 

Hot, 226 

Meat, 225 

Sweet fillings, 226 

Vegetable, 226 
Keeping, 225 
Serving, 225 
Shape of, 224 
Slicing, 224 
Spreading, 225 
Saratoga chips, 35 
Sauce, apple, 51 
Sauces, savory, 44 

Brown gravy, 155, 162 

Brown sauce, 46 

Caper sauce, 46 

Drawn butter for fish, 47 

Drawn butter for vegetables, 46 

Gravy, 156 

Hollandaise, 47 

Mint s^uce for Iamb, 47 

Mustard for ham, 47 

Parsley butter, 48 

Sauce for cutlets, 159 

Table showing variations, 44 

Tartare, 48 

Tomato puree, 48 

Tomato sauce, 48 

White, 45, 

Medium, 45 

Thick, 46 

Thin, 45 
Sauces, sweet 

Caramel syrup, 97 

Chocolate 290 

Cream, 289 

Cream, 291 

Custard, 286 

Egg, 290 

Fruit sauce with egg, 289 

Fruit sauce thickened with 

flour, 290 
Hard, 289 
Lemon, 289 
Molasses, 291 
Nut, 291 
Orange, 290 
Vanilla, 289 



Sauer kraut, directions for making. 66 

Directions for serving, 18 
Sauer kraut with fresh pork, 18 
Savory rice, 108 
Savory sauces, 44 
Scalloped dishes, 227 

Apples, 274 

Asparagus, 17 

Cabbage, 17 

Carrots, 17 

Cauliflower, 17 

Corn, 22 

Egg plant, 23 

Fish, 181 

Meat, 168 

Oysters, 186 

Potatoes with eggs, 35 

Potatoes, with white sauce, 35 

Rhubarb, 275 

Rice, 109 

Salmon, 183 

Tomatoes, 40 
Scones, 198 
Scotch broth, 139 
Scrambled eggs, 113 
Sherbet— see frozen dishes 
Shirred eggs, 113 
Short cake 

Fruit, 279 

Strawberry, 279 
Shrub 

Blackberry, 94 

Dewberry, 94 

Raspberry, 94 

Strawberry, 94 
Sippets, 222 
Skirt steak, 146 

Stuffed, 158 
Sliced cucumber pickles, 73 
Snow balls, 283 
Snow pudding, 285 
Soda biscuits, 197 
Soft cooked eggs, 112 
Soft custard, 124 
Soft graham bread, 217 
Soft wheat flour, 212 
Souffles, 117 

Cheese, 118 

Chicken, 118 

Fish, 118 

Omelet, 116 

Onion, 118 



Prune, 276 

Soup sticks, 222 

Soups, 129 
Cream soups, 131 
Com chowder, 133 
Cream of carrot soup, 134 
Cream of celery soup, 132 
Cream of corn soup, 133 
Cream of onion soup, 134 
Cream of potato soup, 133 
Cream of rice soup with 

stock, 138 
Cream of tomato soup, 132 
Green pea soup, 134 
Peanut soup, 135 
Potato soup, 132 
Fish soups, 140 
Clam puree, 141 
Fish chowder, 140 
Oyster stew, plain, 140 
Oyster stew, thickened, 140 
Meat soups, 135 
Beef stock, 137 
Bouillon, 138 
Brown stock, 137 
Cream of rice, 138 
Gumbo, 139 
Julienne, 138 

Rules in making stock, 136 
Scotch broth, 139 
To clear soup or stock, 137 
Vegetable soup, 138 
White stock, 137 
Vegetable soups, 129 
Black bean soup, 130 
Dried bean soup, 130 
Dried pea soup, 130 
Okra and tomato soup, 129 
Vegetable soup without meat 
stock, 129 

Sour milk griddle cakes, 206 

Spanish omelet, 117 

Spice cake with eggs, 250 

Spiced eggless cake No. 1, 246 

Spiced eggless cake No. 2, 247 

Spiced gooseberries, 92 

Spiced pears, 74 

Spiced prunes, 74 

Spinach, 38 

Sponge cake, 248 

Sponge cakes, 243 

Spoon com bread, 201 



Spring wheat flour, 212 , 
Squash, 38 

Baked, 38 

Crooked neck, 38 

Cushaw, 38 

Cymbeline, 38 

Hubbard, 38 

Pie, 268 

Steamed, 38 

Summer, 38 

Winter, 38 
Stale bread, uses for, 221 
Steamed apples, 50 
Steamed brown bread, 202 
Steamed cranberry pudding, 284 
Steamed custards, 123 
Steamed fruit pudding with pork, 282 
Steamed fruit pudding with suet, 282 
Steamed mixtures, 281 
Steamed rhubarb, 52 
Steamed rice, 108 
Steamed squash, 38 
Sterilization, 57 
Sterilized milk, 121 
Sterilizing, directions for, $1 
Sterilizing cans and jars, 61 
Stew 

Beef, 157 

Kidney, 162 

Veal, 157 
Stock, soup, 135-137 

Beef, 137 

Brown, 137 

To clear, 137 

White, 137 
Strawberries, canned, 81 
Strawberries, sun-preserved, 92 
Strawberryade, 10 
Strawberry jam, 92 
Strawberry short cake, 279 
Strawberry shrub, 94 
String beans, 15 

Canned, cold pack method, 67 

Canned, intermittent method, 67 
Stuffed dates, 99 
Stuffed eggs, 238 
Stuffed flank steak, 158 
Stuffed onions, 27 
Stuffed peppers, 29 
Stuffed peppers, pickled, 75 
Stuffed round steak, 158 
Stuffed skirt steak, 158 



Stuffed tomatoes, 41 
Stuffing for fish, ISO 
Stuffing for roast fowl, 172 
Suet, to prepare for batters, 2S2 
Sugar, cooking of, 95 
Sugar in candies, 95 
Sugar, in canned fruits, 78 
Sugar, in jelly making, 82 
Sugar substitutes in canning, 78 
Summer squash, 38 
Sun-preserved berries, 92 
Sunshine cake, 250 
Swedish timbales, 209 
Sweetbreads, 164 

Creamed, 167 

To cook, 160 
Sweet fillings for sandwiches, 226 
Sweet potato pie, 268 
Sweet potatoes— see potatoes 
Sweet potatoes, canned, 68 
Swiss chard, 38 
Syrup, caramel, 97 
Syrap tests, 96 

Time for cooking, 96 

T.APIOCA AXD CORN MEAL PUDDING, 278 

Tapioca cream, 125 

Tapioca puddings— see desserts 

Tartare sauce, 48 

Tarts, 269 

Tarts, hickory nut, 270 

Tea, 7-8 

Tea, iced, 8 

Tea cakes — see yellow cake No. 2 

Tests for good beef, 143 

Tests for temperature in frying, 188 

Tests, syrup, 96 

Thin white sauce, 45 

Timbales, 208 

Timbales, Swedish, 209 

Time table for canning fruits, 78 

Time table for canning vegetables, 62 

Time table for cooking vegetables in 

water, 14 
Time table for frying, 189 
Time table for roasting of meat, 155 
Toast, 222 

Creamed, 223 

French, 223 

Milk, 222 

Toast, dry, 222 
Toasted crackers and cheese, 224 



Tomato and celery salad, 235 
Tomato jelly salad, 239 
Tomato ketchup, 75 
Tomato mince meat, 89 
Tomato pickles, green, 71 
Tomato puree, 48 
Tomato relish, 75 
Tomato salad, 235 
Tomato sauce, 48 
Tomato, yellow preserves, 93 
Tomatoes, 39 

Canned, cold-pack method, 68 

Canned, open-kettle method, 68 

Fried, 39 

Scalloped, 40 

Stewed, 40 

Stuffed, 41 
Tongue, 

Boiled, 161 

Braized, 162 
Turnips, 41 

Creamed, 41 

Mashed, 41 

Vanilla corn starch pudding, 273 

Vanilla ice cream, 296 

Vanilla sauce, 289 

Veal, 148 

Veal cutlets, breaded, 159 

Veal loaf, 156 

Veal, roast, 158 

Veal stew, 157 

Vegetable oyster— see salsify 

Vegetable salad, 237 

Vegetable sandwiches, 226 

Vegetable soup (with meat stock) 138 

Vegetable soup(wthout meat 

stock)129 
Vegetables, 12 

Canning of— see preservation 

Cooking of, 12 

General directions for cooking 
in water, 12 

Recipes for, 14 

Time table for cooking in 
water, 14 

Time table for canning, 62 
Velvet pudding, 274 

W.ATERS, NUT, 223 

Waffles, 207 
Baking, 207 
Batter, 207 



Recipes for, 207 

Serving, 207 

Waffle iron, 207 
Washington pie, 248 
Water frosting, 259 
Water melon pickles, 76 
Water melon rind preserves, 93 
Water sponge cake, 248 
Welsh rabbit, 126 
Wheat, cracked, 107 
Wheat flour, 212 
Wheatena, 109 
Wheatlet, 109 
White cake No. 1, 246 
White cake No. 2, 246 
White cake without eggs, 246 
White flour bread, 216 
White grape sherbet, 299 
White pulled candy, 103 
White sauce, 44 

Medium, 45 

Thick, 46 

Thin, 45 



White sponge cake, 249 
White stock, 137 
Whole wheat bread, 217 
Whole wheat flour, 213 
Whole wheat muffins, 199 
Winter squash, 38 
Winter wheat flour, 212 

Yeast, 210 

Action of, 210 

Commercial, 211 

Conditions of growth, 210 

Liquid, 212 

Preparation of, 211 
Yellow cake No. 1, 245 
Yellow cake No. 2, 245 
Yellow tomato preserves, 92 



Zwieback, 222 



§M^:^Mmi^mMf^M^^^ 



